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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Glacier Point Apron : Variation on a Theme (5.10b R)
By: Steve Shumaker When: Jul 9, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: New bolts now.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Royal Arches : Royal Arches (5.10a/b)
By: Steve Shumaker When: Jun 22, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this on Father's day with my son. Please note that the wet sections on the last traversing pitch have turned to slime. I would not recommend soloing this pitch right now. We both slipped (somehow without actually falling) about 20 feet from the woods. Some kind soul has rigged a fixed line for the traverse out of the woods, which is also covered with slime.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Dixon Lake : The Prowe Area : Bouldering Slab (5.7)
By: Steve Shumaker When: Jun 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would definitely not want to fall off the crux of this one. There's a good chance your momentum could carry you over the cliff below.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Dixon Lake : The Roof Area : The Shoulder (5.10a)
By: Steve Shumaker When: Jun 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A few painful hand jams through the crux solve the barn door problem.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Dixon Lake : The Roof Area : The Roof (5.10d)
By: Steve Shumaker When: Jun 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I remember this being rated 5.10b (20 years ago). Definitely easier than Double D, even before the crux hold broke off on Double D. Good climb to lead.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Dixon Lake : The Roof Area : Double D (5.10d)
By: Steve Shumaker When: Jun 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a fun route with two small and fun dynamic moves prior to the crux. I suspect that was the origin of the name. It was solid 5.10d 15-20 years ago when an informal guide generously rated it 5.11. Since then a key hold at the crux broke off and it has easily gone up a letter grade. I give it 5.11a.
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Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Witch : Igor Unchained (5.9+)
By: Steve Shumaker When: Jul 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Standing at the bottom of pitch 3, it was hard to believe it was going to go at 5.9. But it did, and with good stances for placing pro.
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