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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - West Rampart : Dead Tree Wall : Defeat of the DLFA Boys (5.11c)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Jun 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very clever insight by my esteemed college Hammercase Sloshbury aka Duke O puke or "one who walks with Fuk-nes". How many martinis did it take to come up with that one? Oh,my bad you switch to margaritas for the summer for the health benefits of the lime.
Let me get this straight...Mr. Toproper after conquering the 5.11c or 5.12a 50ft toprope ( lord knows we couldnt climb that hard) and "slaying the dragon" (dlfa) he failed to partake in the ritual of consuming the "blood" of the beast in celeb... more >>
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff South : ... : Lou Reed Arete (V3)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: May 16, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I believe various DLFA members were involved in "developing" this prime piece of real estate. This would include Bill Russell, Rich Bechler,Brian Sime,Rob Lemon,Steve S.,and of course Dave "hammer case" Salisbury(aka sloshbury). Hammer case Dave came up with the excellent name for the boulder as he was way into Lou Reed and martinis ......still is. This boulder was featured in some great nite time sessions including one where we were caught off guard by the DNR and one Bill R when asked for his ... more >>
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - West of the Qu... : Vulture Lookout : The V (aka The Vulva) (5.10d)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: May 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The story behind this climb goes like this....While the fellow mentioned by Prez. Bechler may have named the climb he certainly did not climb it. Not sure why Koala bear named it the Vulva, but it certainly fits the climb. I believe this was 1st top roped by some random DLFA hammer case, it was first led in an inspired moment by my esteemed brother of fuk-nes Dave "pigs in space" Langhoff who usually climbed in mountain boots for an extra challenge.He probably led it on hex,s also because he was... more >>
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - West Rampart : Dead Tree Wall : Defeat of the DLFA Boys (5.11c)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Apr 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route name suggests a level of childishness almost akin to the DLFA, note I said "almost". It should be noted that Pete C. never had a problem with us. he mentored us,watched us become young strong climbers ,he enjoyed climbing with us and hanging out and partying with us. He even would let us hang at his house and get jacked and bivy and puke all over his yard. As for Mr. Toproper,s(aka Alex A.)animosity towards the Dlfa one can only surmise that it was based on jealousy of our good looks,g... more >>
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff Southeast : ... : Orgasm Arete (V1)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Apr 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I remember doing these problems about 1980 with Dale Moir and fellow Dlfa. we probably did not do the v8. peace and f-nes Steve S.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Jules Verne (5.11b/c R)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Mar 5, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I noticed on Saturday March 2nd that the knifeblade has now been replaced with a new one in a new location. Hopefully it is better than the old one (it must be). Was this pin and the one off T2 and the other pins that have recently been removed off routes in Eldo part of a sanctioned ACE activity? Peace, Steve S
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : ... : Photo
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Mar 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is the angle pin the one I saw you yank out with a funk-nes device off of T2 ? Did this get replaced? Peace, Steve S
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : ... : Photo
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Feb 19, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Adam, I can see clipping that particular pin but "trusting" it???? You could tell by lookin' at it that it was probably crap. Of the times I have led that pitch, the only time I ever clipped it was the first time I led it. Every time after it seemed better to just climb on past it as fast as possible. As aside note, while it is good that this particular pin got pulled, this and "other" pins in Eldo are now being pulled by ACE members without any public input or permit from the state park. Peace,... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : After The Gold Rush (5.12a PG13)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Oct 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yo, punters!
Nicely done! Once again Eric proves he has more energy then 12 monkies jacked up on copious amounts of espresso. Mike does a great job gettin' it done and keepin an eye out for Eric. Classic name to boot. Steve S.
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Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Coyote Tower : Hydroponics- right crack st... (5.9+)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Oct 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: First lead: Steve Sangdahl and Jack Klein , circa 1981
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Bill's Buttress : Mr. Bunney Meets The Poultr... (5.11a PG13)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Jun 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: fa : mr.poultry aka Saul Sepson . not sure on time or lead status
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Loft : Orange You Lichen It? (5.11- PG13)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: May 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cor, The other 3 bolt route was put up by Bob Horan. 5.10 sounds about right. Not sure who he did this with. Steve S.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : Rich and Famous (5.11d)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: May 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Chez,Is that all you managed to dislocate? Could you please describe important details of Prunes ascent that day. What was the gear like? Was it a safe lead? And most importantly how much and what type of swill was consumed ,before during and after the ascent? Just the facts please! Club salute to "Prunes"!!!! Peace and fuk-nes Steve S.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : D.L.F.A (5.11) : Photo
By: Steve Sangdahl When: May 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dave slosh bury, how right you are . As for the copious amount of swill on the table,yes it was complementary ......or "Liberated" might be a better term. You guys did an excellent job of keepin or "fuk-nes" session well supplied all courtesy of curry Ifna I'm not mistaken. Pretty sure statue of limitations is on your side. Peace and fuk nes steve s.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : D.L.F.A (5.11) : Photo
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Apr 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bagatelle it is Chris. Note the funky shorts and swami old Dave duke of puke slosh bury is decked out in .....and well,yes thats old Chez mike bill pickin his nose. Circa1980 or 1981.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : Rich and Famous (5.11d)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Apr 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: yes yet another Prunes Bechler lead......He thought he was being pretty clever with naming this Rich and Famous..... Didn't,t take much to amuse the punter.
club salute to old Prunes, may he always be encouraging us to pull down,cut loose and throw up. R.I.P Rich!
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : Assume the Position (5.12b)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Apr 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: First top roped by Ralph über Schimdt. Early 80,s. At least that's what I remember
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Great Tower (M... : Great Tower : Steak Sauce (5.12c PG13)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Apr 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Remo, thanks...like ya say it makes some of the routes even better knowing the history of the first ascents and some of the stories that go with the climbs and the scene at DL.
Peace and fuknes....steve s.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Great Tower (M... : Great Tower : Steak Sauce (5.12c PG13)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Apr 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pete use to say the funny and damnedest things to us.
That must have been the 2nd time Pete told Old Rich Bechler to not even try it. The first time was when Rich ,Dale,and myself had tried toproping Steak sauce(Dave G was not present) At the time Pete use to let us bivy in his yard and get jacked.So we proceeded to ask him for his take on Steaksauce. Well he looked at us and declared in perfect Elmer Fudd speak...."You guys? Don't even bother. You'll never do it! It took me 10 years to toprope ... more >>
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Two Pines Buttress : Mouse's Tail (5.11c)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Mar 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for adding this into the data base. The route is prettygood nothing exceptional ,there is okay gear. I use to plug a large cam in the solution pocket on Mouse Tracks then traverse down and over ,up and onto face.
First lead: Steve Sangdahl, 1980?
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Potholes Area : Doorway Rocks - Minor Mass : No Stranger to the Fist (5.12d)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Nov 28, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a bump for old "Prunes" Bechler.We will not forget thee.
Rest in peace ifna ya can.What's it like up there?
Do it fer Prunes and do it fer yer club.Pull down cut loose throw up.
Peace and f-nes Steve S. brother of fuk-nes
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Leaning Tower : Cosmic Cringe (5.11a PG13)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Nov 22, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: oops, didnt notice this was already in data base. reason I posted it was i had just talked to old Swilliam on the phone and it reminded me of this route. I will stick with the latest description as a salute to Russell(1st self proclaimed prez of dlfa...and a damn good one at that) I will also stick with the rating.
Chris tregg can ya remove the other cosmic cringe.peace and f-nes steve s
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Misery/Cottage... : The Frigate : Code of the Sea (5.12a) : Photo
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Nov 3, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yo Trad dude, That is a great pic.Should be on the Wisconsin home page.
reminds me of a crag in the UK (blighty to you regular punters)Looks like a great lead with the prudent use of double ropes.Nice send!
p.s. where's yer helmet? peace and f-nes steves
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Hawk's Nest : Vivesection (5.11a)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Oct 29, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think Pete Cleveland probably did the first lead as well. Anyone ?
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Hawk's Nest : Alpha Centauri (5.10d)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Oct 29, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I seem to remember soloing this one day in about 1981.I just started up it just bouldering out the start and the next thing I knew I was about 50 feet off the ground and old Bill Russell starts hassling me from vivesection. Pretty funny as Prunes Immeadiatly tells Bill he will be off belay ifn he doesnt shut up.
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