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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : D.L.F.A (5.11) : Photo
By: Steve Sangdahl When: May 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dave slosh bury, how right you are . As for the copious amount of swill on the table,yes it was complementary ......or "Liberated" might be a better term. You guys did an excellent job of keepin or "fuk-nes" session well supplied all courtesy of curry Ifna I'm not mistaken. Pretty sure statue of limitations is on your side. Peace and fuk nes steve s.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : D.L.F.A (5.11) : Photo
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Apr 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bagatelle it is Chris. Note the funky shorts and swami old Dave duke of puke slosh bury is decked out in .....and well,yes thats old Chez mike bill pickin his nose. Circa1980 or 1981.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : Rich and Famous (5.11d)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Apr 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: yes yet another Prunes Bechler lead......He thought he was being pretty clever with naming this Rich and Famous..... Didn't,t take much to amuse the punter.
club salute to old Prunes, may he always be encouraging us to pull down,cut loose and throw up. R.I.P Rich!
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : Assume the Position (5.12b)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Apr 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: First top roped by Ralph über Schimdt. Early 80,s. At least that's what I remember
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Great Tower (M... : Great Tower : Steak Sauce (5.12c PG13)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Apr 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Remo, thanks...like ya say it makes some of the routes even better knowing the history of the first ascents and some of the stories that go with the climbs and the scene at DL.
Peace and fuknes....steve s.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Great Tower (M... : Great Tower : Steak Sauce (5.12c PG13)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Apr 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pete use to say the funny and damnedest things to us.
That must have been the 2nd time Pete told Old Rich Bechler to not even try it. The first time was when Rich ,Dale,and myself had tried toproping Steak sauce(Dave G was not present) At the time Pete use to let us bivy in his yard and get jacked.So we proceeded to ask him for his take on Steaksauce. Well he looked at us and declared in perfect Elmer Fudd speak...."You guys? Don't even bother. You'll never do it! It took me 10 years to toprope ... more >>
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Two Pines Buttress : Mouse's Tail (5.11c)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Mar 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for adding this into the data base. The route is prettygood nothing exceptional ,there is okay gear. I use to plug a large cam in the solution pocket on Mouse Tracks then traverse down and over ,up and onto face.
First lead: Steve Sangdahl, 1980?
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Potholes Area : Doorway Rocks - Minor Mass : No Stranger to the Fist (5.12d)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Nov 28, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a bump for old "Prunes" Bechler.We will not forget thee.
Rest in peace ifna ya can.What's it like up there?
Do it fer Prunes and do it fer yer club.Pull down cut loose throw up.
Peace and f-nes Steve S. brother of fuk-nes
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Leaning Tower : Cosmic Cringe (5.11a PG13)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Nov 22, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: oops, didnt notice this was already in data base. reason I posted it was i had just talked to old Swilliam on the phone and it reminded me of this route. I will stick with the latest description as a salute to Russell(1st self proclaimed prez of dlfa...and a damn good one at that) I will also stick with the rating.
Chris tregg can ya remove the other cosmic cringe.peace and f-nes steve s
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Misery/Cottage... : The Frigate : Code of the Sea (5.12a) : Photo
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Nov 3, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yo Trad dude, That is a great pic.Should be on the Wisconsin home page.
reminds me of a crag in the UK (blighty to you regular punters)Looks like a great lead with the prudent use of double ropes.Nice send!
p.s. where's yer helmet? peace and f-nes steves
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Hawk's Nest : Vivesection (5.11a)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Oct 29, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think Pete Cleveland probably did the first lead as well. Anyone ?
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Hawk's Nest : Alpha Centauri (5.10d)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Oct 29, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I seem to remember soloing this one day in about 1981.I just started up it just bouldering out the start and the next thing I knew I was about 50 feet off the ground and old Bill Russell starts hassling me from vivesection. Pretty funny as Prunes Immeadiatly tells Bill he will be off belay ifn he doesnt shut up.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : New Sandstone Area
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Sep 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nick, I know the seam of which you are refering to. About a year after we sent Lazor Beam we tried it once and gave up.About this time we became brave enough and stupid enough to start soloing Lazor Beam and left this one nut case CMC aid climber to "work his magic" on the seam(cmc,ers are reknowed fer their aid climbing skills,mainly cause they can,t free climb past 5.9,although I doubt they can get up an EL Cap trade route)It must have been a comical sight to see as we would solo the "Beam" an... more >>
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Far West End : Balanced Rock Wall : Moondust (5.10c/d)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Aug 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I keep thinking the F.A. was done in 1978 not 76. no biggy. And yes Bob will sandbag on occasion. peace etc
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Far West End : Balanced Rock Wall : Morning After (5.10d PG13)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Aug 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I beleive the first lead of Morning After was by Tommy Deuchler. mid 1970,s I could be mistaken. This is a cool climb with what we considered to be good gear back in the late 70,s. peace and f-nes Steve S
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Hawk's Nest : Alpha Centauri (5.10d) : Photo
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Aug 15, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Andy,Thanks. The style was young,strong,stoned and slightly stupid. I remember soloing this barefoot also which takes it to the next level of foolishness. peace and f-nes
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : Hourglass (5.11c)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Jul 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: i beleive the first lead of this was by Ralph Schimdt early 1980's Think he just trailed the rope fer some reason.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : Wiessner Wall : Wiessner Face (5.7) : Photo
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Jun 15, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Club Approved activity and photo.
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Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Y-Crack Wall : Blinded by Lust (5.11+)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Jun 13, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice video punters. After watchin the vid and carefull scrutinization I have to declare that this is the climb that Rich Prunes Bechler led and called Blinded By Lust .It was named after a certain young redheaded strumpet that "Andy,myself,Rich and the entire US Navy had their way with"...to quote old Prunes.Rich showed me this climb after the fa and tried to get me to do the 2nd ascent but I could tell it was a typical prunes sandbag.I opted fer a tr instead and thought it was at least 5.12a(o... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Angel of Death (formerl... : The Angel of Death (formerl... (5.10a)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: May 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: George, that must have been an impressive lead by Mike. I can imagine there was hardly any gear at all let alone any good gear. Since there was no record of your ascent on the rock or any guidebook as of 1996, we bolted it. If you guys are sure this is the same line (and I believe it probably is) and Mike wishes to see the bolts removed, I will gladly remove them.
We named it the Beer Can for the 30 year old Coors Cans we found wedged on the summit block. Peace, Steve S.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : New Sandstone Area : Kingsbury Non-Alcoholic Are... (5.12b) : Photo
By: Steve Sangdahl When: May 13, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nick, I had moved on by the time Rich did this but I was under the impression that it was th arete immediatly left of Kingsburycruise. Hence the name. I remember when we took the "infamous" Dick Cilley up here and he pointed out the possibility of doing the arete left of Kingsbury cruise. We even threw a rope on it breifly.
Do they still make Kingsbury beer? the stuff was pretty weak but it was cheap. steve s
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Brinton's Buttress : Chicago (5.9 R)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: May 10, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nick,I wish the weather had been nice enough to climb bare foot.It was 25 degrees the first day and we did manage to tr easy stuff on Leaning tower. It snowed 5 inches that nite!
It would be cool to know who those guys were climbing it in swamis and barefoot. In suits????.Chicago is a great route and I seem to remember leading it once barefoot.
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Location: CO : Boulder Canyon: Castle Rock...
By: Steve Sangdahl When: May 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tony, if you're doing any trundling, check out the huge, loose block above the Pass/Fail roof. It's to the left if I remember and it is even still there. Thanks.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part F - The P... : Mountain Jam (5.8)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Apr 28, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I believe this was done back in the mid 1980s. There evidence of an ascent way back then. Peace and fuk-nes, Steve S.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff Southeast : ... : Rampart Roof (5.12a/b V4)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Mar 16, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: remo, its been a long time and we probably only did it that once. I think we figured out 2 ways out the roof. both probably 5.12a/b.We definitly were tooooo scared to boulder it out,its tall and some funky moves .Looks like you are finding some cool problems in the talus.Keep lookin ,I,ll bet there is more out there. steve s
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