Comments: The meeting minutes from the 2-10-2014 meeting, including results from new applications, can be found here: www.aceeldo.org/about/view_ace_minutes.php In a nutshell: 1. The route off the Upper Ramp, right of The Italian Arete was approved (note the application was amended to add 2 bolts). 2. The Exhibit A roof route was approved. 3. The Doub-Griffith Extension was approved. 4. Vote on the "Upper Meadow" (sic) route between Vertigo and To RP Or Not To Be was postponed. The Board needed mor... more >>
Comments: When I first did this (early-'90s), the 2nd ear was waaaaay filled with bird crap and dead birds and even live birds slithering away from my finger tips as I jammed through. Glad to hear it's cleaner now.
Comments: The original descent between Isaac and Jacob is worth doing if you like adventure. We topped out late December 1997, bivied, then rapped the back slabs in 2 feet of snow the next day before making it into the slot between the formations ... breaking through ice into waist-deep water. Did the last 3 raps down the pour over with our tagline disintegrating with multiple core shots, then the sheath completely sliding off the core in places. Could only use it as a pull cord on these raps. Felt like w... more >>
Comments: Climbed this with Jeff Achey in November 1999 in a very leisurely 5 days car-to-car. Think it was the 4th ascent (Pennings & Hollenbaugh did the 3rd). We had a pair of ravens hang with us the entire time. The only dangerous pitch was the last one because it was really soft and the wall went to less-than-vertical and you could hit something if you fell- every other pitch (except maybe off Rubicon) you could rip and just fall into space. Topped out on Jeff's birthday to the last of our red wine. G... more >>
Comments: There is another bolted route left of the route described in this entry and shown in the photos Ivan posted. It has 4 bolts and 1 fixed pin to 2-bolt anchor, with a 5.9 move between bolts 1 & 2. I'm confused.
Comments: As a side note, during research for the Eldo guide I'm now finishing up, climbers have reported doing this variation as far back as 1970. It was the standard bailout for failure on the Tagger Roof; ascents starting as far back as late-1968 (right after Erickson freed the roof) probably occurred.
Comments: This is one of the great classic North American rock climbs. It is up there among the best routes I have ever done, not for the climbing, but for the experience. And after all, that's what we're after, right?
Comments: I thought the approach was pretty okay--6 double rope rappels and then down-gully slummin' with no poison ivy. Locate the first rap anchor the day before-- it's a bit obscure. The route itself is alright. It'll clean up a bit with more ascents, notably the chimney pitch. Still a bit of that shady-side dirtiness to it. Kind of a worker's crack climb, although the cruxes up high are both face climbing. The 5.10+ arete is definitely sketch. Get on it early in the day and it'll be a good route for w... more >>
Comments: Chris-- It's the original fourth pitch of Practice Climb 101, which tackles the huge roof left of the Sooberb crux roof. Erickson left it out of Rocky Heights, since as you know he only included free climbs. The omission was perpetuated in subsequent guidebooks.
From: "ELDORADO: A Climber's Route Guide" by Pat Ament (1975) pages 105-106: Practice Climb Number 101. II, 5.7, A3. First ascent in 1966 by Larry and Roger Dalke. Find the start to the Side Wall. Immediately to the left (north) is a s... more >>
Comments: I proposed a 2-bolt anchor above Foxtrot/Crazy Fingers in 2001, and (if I remember correctly) it was approved by the FHRC in June of that year. Due to events out of my control I never followed up on the proposal, and after some thought, decided against pursuing it further. I agree that the current set-up is inconvenient, but Foxtrot is getting a lot of ascents, and the current anchor is, at least, workable. There are many examples in the canyon where a 2-bolt anchor is necessary. Is this one of ... more >>
Comments: This route was first described on page 124 of Pat Ament's 1975 Eldorado guidebook, so it is hardly likely that a 1983 first ascent claim is valid.
"Serrated Jam-Crack 5.9+. Reach a sloping ledge about 40 feet below a large tree in the prominent dihedral between the two main aretes. Starting with a traverse left beneath a rotten overhang, climb 40 feet up and right to a prominent, serrated jam-crack which leads to the rotten ledge on Gambit."