Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED


Member Since: May 3, 2004
Last Visit: 18 hours ago
Contact steve edwards


Point Rank: # 1,180
Total Points: 551
Last Year: 34
Last 30 Days: 2
6 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has steve edwards been climbing?










Contributions


All 506 | Routes 21 | Areas 7 | Photos 8 | Page Improvements | Comments 196 | Posts 144 | Stars 119 | Ratings 11
Page 1 of 8.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Potter's Point : Ms. T (5.8)
By: steve edwards When: Feb 5, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This is very common in SB, especially places with softer rock like Potter's, but routes need maintenance everywhere and these routes are 20 years old. Keep in mind the bolts are 1/2X4, so there is very little (like impossible) chance of them coming out as you lower off, even if they become completely disengaged and spin freely. A simple stud in a hole that deep would be safe, and there are two--of course knowing this didn't help me feel very safe rapping off one spinning carrot bolt in Australia... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Painted Cave : ... : Break on Through (V9)
By: steve edwards When: Feb 1, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Wills' beta is insane if you're tall. Granted, I'm not the strongest or most flexible person on the planet but getting your foot that close to your hands using those holds was something that was never going to happen for me, no matter how much Bikram I could stomach.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : ... : Watch the Dog (V4)
By: steve edwards When: Jan 3, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Vid brings back old memories of roaming around out there alone and finding these things and being shocked if ever I'd see anyone, so I had that reaction to seeing other people in the background. Me, Perlin, and Jason Houston spent years trying to get people psyched on the yard but no one ever wanted to go out , at least until Bob moved to town. Watch the Dog was just me and a brush (no pads yet). It might have been years until I found someone to go out and do it with me.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : Hai Karate (5.12d)
By: steve edwards When: Nov 18, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Although, as Ben Moon said, if you can't do the moves then there's nothing to endure. The crux is this is pretty damn hard. Or used to be.

But I only popped in here to comment that this route showed up as a highlighted classic here on Mountain Project. Jesus Christ, the one it took the place of was a classic Spanish limestone masterpiece. I mean, I'm sure Phil's further cleaning was magnificent but, um, still. Inverted sandbox or Oliana? All 4 star routes are not created equal. Now wondering i... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : The Old Pro Skill (5.12d)
By: steve edwards When: Nov 4, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Sounds like somebody's using the old pro skill on him and my man's fallin' for it.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : Echo Rock - South Face : My Idea of Fun (5.12d PG13)
By: steve edwards When: Oct 31, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The story I heard, from either Thaw or the Fish, was that Bourne called it 14c, making it arguably the hardest route in the world at the time (Hubble and AD had yet to be upgraded), and went on local TV to claim the world's hardest route was in Josh. Myles on sighted the second ascent, confirming the c but slashing two numbers off the 14.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Doom Wall
By: steve edwards When: Oct 25, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Interested to see if Owltoberfest gets anyone on these routes. There's another in between Shotgun and ADK that I put up. I don't remember the name but, somehow, it wound up as a 10 in my guide and it's way harder. Mid 11 as I recall. Other than Shores, routes on this wall feel incredibly bleak, although there was a short time when they were fun when we did them regularly (like 20 years ago). Hopefully some traffic will shape it up somewhat. For sure, more potential exists here.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Mr. Lees Greater Hong Kong : Crocodile Hunter (5.13a)
By: steve edwards When: Oct 25, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: It's also super fun. One of the better routes in the area. And long. With the crux at the end.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Mr. Lees Greater Hong Kong : Pork Chop Express (5.12c)
By: steve edwards When: Oct 25, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Other than one move, which is sharp and hard, I think it's super fun. The rest is very pumpy and skin friendly, so come to terms with the move and it's great for mileage.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Mr. Lees Greater Hong Kong : Sea of Love (5.12b)
By: steve edwards When: Oct 25, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This is a serious pile. Needs a sea of love in order to be climbable.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Mr. Lees Greater Hong Kong : The New Legend of Shaolin (5.13a)
By: steve edwards When: Oct 25, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This thing climbs really well and "hanging in there" is relative, as is the comment about being the lightest 13a in the area. Okay, sure, maybe in the immediate area (MrLees/Tor) but don't expect a standard SoCal/Shelf Road/Intermountain West/Smith Rocks/ Yosemite/Spain 13a either.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Mr. Lees Greater Hong Kong : Buddhist Palm (5.14a)
By: steve edwards When: Oct 21, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Redpointed last weekend by Elijah Ball. Grade bumped to 14a. Probably conservative as it's been changing regularly over the years and began at 13d 20 years ago.

Congrats, Slim!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Gordon's Direct (5.11b R)
By: steve edwards When: Oct 15, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Haha, yeah, that damn Steve Hong, wussing out and adding bolts to everything. Guess he was too weak to be up for heady and awesome. I sure hope he did something else in his climbing career to make up for this.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : White Cougar (5.12b)
By: steve edwards When: Aug 30, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I could never make it work. Normal Guy fully fell out of it. I think if you rest 5 minutes fully no hands, the route get an extra grade.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : White Cougar (5.12b)
By: steve edwards When: Aug 29, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: For full value you should do your best to make the rest a no hands. More than one person has fallen out of it that way.


Location: UT : Stansbury Mountains : South Willow Canyon - Narro... : Narrows - South : Nerve Damage (5.13a)
By: steve edwards When: Aug 29, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Glad to hear you say this because I found this sucker hard! Now I don't feel like such a punter.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Mr. Lees Greater Hong Kong : Hardboiled (5.13b)
By: steve edwards When: Jul 3, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Beautiful.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor
By: steve edwards When: Jul 3, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I wish we'd taken photos prior to beginning work here. Poison oak running 40 feet up the wall that, when touched, rained sand like a Sirocco on the Sahara. I've never been as dirty in my life as after a work day at the Tor. It's the Taj Mahal of climbing, only we couldn't afford slaves to do the work.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Intruder Wall : Intruder Alert (5.13-)
By: steve edwards When: Jun 2, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I think Chad's done this. I've seen him do the traverse through the first move of the route, as a boulder, and we talked about the grade of linking the route. Can't recall if he said he'd actually done it, but that was a couple of years ago, so would be surprised if he hasn't.

Nice send either way. The traverse almost doubles the length of the route. Proud.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Panic Town
By: steve edwards When: Apr 23, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Wow, someone even more optimistic than me when it comes to "that could be a good crag." Tried to scurry up interest in this place but no one was willing to invest, even with Dr. K telling everyone he'd lead the charge. Excellent vision as to what is possible. Congrats! Hopefully it'll get enough use to stay this way.

One comment and one question: seems like after all that work, you'd have given those walls actual names. The PO Wall, Garden from Hell... just a couple of things that come to mind.... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Potter's Point : Caveman (5.11+)
By: steve edwards When: Apr 1, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: No idea what's broken or not but back when it was bolted, Wolfgang didn't get it in a day, and we'd all done Makunaima in Teva's (granted we could do it blindfolded, too). So something was hard about it. Comparing it to Drive By Shooting isn't really even the same sport, since that's a glorified slab. DBS is super hard to sort but, once you know where to go, kind of casual if you're good on your feet. This has a move that's always a move, which at the time felt a lot harder than the crux of Powe... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : She had nothing to do with ... (V6)
By: steve edwards When: Mar 6, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: A flexing jug in Santa Barbara, impossible! The massive jug on the low traverse has been flexing since the mid 90s as is still there, and usable, so it's possible to get lucky. Give it a LONG time after rain. In SB, stuff soaks up water and can hold onto it for weeks, maybe months (the mouth had an entire unclimbable season after '95--record rain year). We almost never pulled off holds when completely dry. Soon after rain, however, and almost everything up there is suspect. The rock is like a sp... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : West Bell Tower : Ring That Bell (5.13b R)
By: steve edwards When: Feb 27, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Don't know how I'm just seeing this. Awesome, job, Brad! Inspiring write-up, too.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : Eudemonic (5.11c)
By: steve edwards When: Feb 7, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: belayed by Chest Rockwell


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle
By: steve edwards When: Jan 20, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I had to rap this wall once. Would never, ever, do it again and would rather take my chances with lightning, which is something I try and avoid at all costs. Even Black Streak is a crap shoot. If there are others on a route don't climb it. I wouldn't want to be on this wall if there were other people on any route if it meant that at some point they were walking off above me. Big stuff comes down this cliff everyday, even when you've got it to yourself.


Page 1 of 8.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>