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Member Since: May 3, 2004
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact steve edwards


Point Rank: # 1,187
Total Points: 529
Last Year: 17
Last 30 Days: 1
6 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has steve edwards been climbing?










Contributions


All 486 | Routes 21 | Areas 7 | Photos 6 | Page Improvements | Comments 185 | Posts 138 | Stars 118 | Ratings 11
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Mr. Lees Greater Hong Kong : Buddhist Palm (5.13d)
By: steve edwards When: 5 hours ago

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Comments: Redpointed last weekend by Elijah Ball. Grade bumped to 14a. Probably conservative as it's been changing regularly over the years and began at 13d 20 years ago.

Congrats, Slim!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Gordon's Direct (5.11b R)
By: steve edwards When: 6 days ago

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Comments: Haha, yeah, that damn Steve Hong, wussing out and adding bolts to everything. Guess he was too weak to be up for heady and awesome. I sure hope he did something else in his climbing career to make up for this.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : White Cougar (5.12b)
By: steve edwards When: Aug 30, 2014

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Comments: I could never make it work. Normal Guy fully fell out of it. I think if you rest 5 minutes fully no hands, the route get an extra grade.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : White Cougar (5.12b)
By: steve edwards When: Aug 29, 2014

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Comments: For full value you should do your best to make the rest a no hands. More than one person has fallen out of it that way.


Location: UT : Stansbury Mountains : South Willow Canyon - Narro... : Narrows - South : Nerve Damage (5.13a)
By: steve edwards When: Aug 29, 2014

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Comments: Glad to hear you say this because I found this sucker hard! Now I don't feel like such a punter.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Mr. Lees Greater Hong Kong : Hardboiled (5.13b)
By: steve edwards When: Jul 3, 2014

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Comments: Beautiful.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor
By: steve edwards When: Jul 3, 2014

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Comments: I wish we'd taken photos prior to beginning work here. Poison oak running 40 feet up the wall that, when touched, rained sand like a Sirocco on the Sahara. I've never been as dirty in my life as after a work day at the Tor. It's the Taj Mahal of climbing, only we couldn't afford slaves to do the work.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Intruder Wall : Intruder Alert (5.13-)
By: steve edwards When: Jun 2, 2014

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Comments: I think Chad's done this. I've seen him do the traverse through the first move of the route, as a boulder, and we talked about the grade of linking the route. Can't recall if he said he'd actually done it, but that was a couple of years ago, so would be surprised if he hasn't.

Nice send either way. The traverse almost doubles the length of the route. Proud.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Panic Town
By: steve edwards When: Apr 23, 2014

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Comments: Wow, someone even more optimistic than me when it comes to "that could be a good crag." Tried to scurry up interest in this place but no one was willing to invest, even with Dr. K telling everyone he'd lead the charge. Excellent vision as to what is possible. Congrats! Hopefully it'll get enough use to stay this way.

One comment and one question: seems like after all that work, you'd have given those walls actual names. The PO Wall, Garden from Hell... just a couple of things that come to mind.... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Potter's Point : Caveman (5.11+)
By: steve edwards When: Apr 1, 2014

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Comments: No idea what's broken or not but back when it was bolted, Wolfgang didn't get it in a day, and we'd all done Makunaima in Teva's (granted we could do it blindfolded, too). So something was hard about it. Comparing it to Drive By Shooting isn't really even the same sport, since that's a glorified slab. DBS is super hard to sort but, once you know where to go, kind of casual if you're good on your feet. This has a move that's always a move, which at the time felt a lot harder than the crux of Powe... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : She had nothing to do with ... (V6)
By: steve edwards When: Mar 6, 2014

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Comments: A flexing jug in Santa Barbara, impossible! The massive jug on the low traverse has been flexing since the mid 90s as is still there, and usable, so it's possible to get lucky. Give it a LONG time after rain. In SB, stuff soaks up water and can hold onto it for weeks, maybe months (the mouth had an entire unclimbable season after '95--record rain year). We almost never pulled off holds when completely dry. Soon after rain, however, and almost everything up there is suspect. The rock is like a sp... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : West Bell Tower : Ring That Bell (5.13b R)
By: steve edwards When: Feb 27, 2014

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Comments: Don't know how I'm just seeing this. Awesome, job, Brad! Inspiring write-up, too.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : Eudemonic (5.11d)
By: steve edwards When: Feb 7, 2014

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Comments: belayed by Chest Rockwell


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle
By: steve edwards When: Jan 20, 2014

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Comments: I had to rap this wall once. Would never, ever, do it again and would rather take my chances with lightning, which is something I try and avoid at all costs. Even Black Streak is a crap shoot. If there are others on a route don't climb it. I wouldn't want to be on this wall if there were other people on any route if it meant that at some point they were walking off above me. Big stuff comes down this cliff everyday, even when you've got it to yourself.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Cathedral Peak
By: steve edwards When: Jan 16, 2014

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Comments: Well, since someone's gone up here to boulder I would suggest the front side approach. It's a lot longer but has very little bushwhacking (depending upon how recently someone's trimmed it but it gets used as a hike and is mainly manicured every so often). Unlike the hellish back side approach, it's a great hike and, sheesh, based on how long it's taking people here to burrow through the manzanita and poison oak it might even be shorter. Granted, I'm a fast hiker, but I've gone car to car with a ... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Upper Gibraltar : Dazed and Confused (5.10b)
By: steve edwards When: Jan 12, 2014

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Comments: We originally placed a rap anchor on the ledge. Someone (a local who hated paying for bolts/hangers and would borrow old hardware off anything short of stripping a route that was popular) pilfered the belay. I found the anchor on one of his routes later. I would have replaced them, because the ledge is a spectacular belay, but I wasn't guiding anymore and you can both belay on the ledge with gear and rap off of another route. I don't think anyone would care if that belay was replaced for conveni... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Creamery
By: steve edwards When: Dec 9, 2013

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Comments: Love the old school guide. Actual artwork. So cool. Isn't there a program that can do that for you though?


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : ... : The Yowie Project (V7-8)
By: steve edwards When: Oct 26, 2013

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Comments: Clearly it needs to get done with the dyno start for a pure direct line. I would think this is a good eliminate.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Crag Full of Dynamite : Unknown (5.7)
By: steve edwards When: Sep 16, 2013

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Comments: Thank you.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Mount Olympus : North Summit : Fuck It Dude, Let's Go Bowl... (5.7)
By: steve edwards When: Sep 9, 2013

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Comments: I think it's the best route name in the database. Went okay for me. The Dude's car got a little beat up.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Membrane : Unknown (5.11d)
By: steve edwards When: Sep 4, 2013

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Comments: It's not that perfect. 11a when it went up but stuff keeps breaking. Getting pretty clean now though and, agreed, we thought it was harder than Little Big Wall (but same grade) when we did it last.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Gibraltar Rock : ... : Photo
By: steve edwards When: Aug 17, 2013

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Comments: Super rad.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Goldak (V0)
By: steve edwards When: Aug 17, 2013

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Comments: Check the Goldak reading.

T. Servo


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : Jah Hole
By: steve edwards When: Aug 13, 2013

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Comments: Burritos, beer, and Life Aquatic. I wonder if he recognized me.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : The Hell of Being Crushed A... (5.13a)
By: steve edwards When: May 23, 2013

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Comments: No, it says "Keep Out".


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