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Member Since: May 3, 2004
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
Contact steve edwards


Point Rank: # 1,121
Total Points: 522
Last Year: 56
Last 30 Days: 1
6 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has steve edwards been climbing?










Contributions


All (466) | Routes (21) | Areas (7) | Photos (6) | Comments (178) | Posts (127) | Stars (117) | Ratings (10)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Panic Town
By: steve edwards When: 12 hours ago

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Comments: Wow, someone even more optimistic than me when it comes to "that could be a good crag." Tried to scurry up interest in this place but no one was willing to invest, even with Dr. K telling everyone he'd lead the charge. Excellent vision as to what is possible. Congrats! Hopefully it'll get enough use to stay this way.

One comment and one question: seems like after all that work, you'd have given those walls actual names. The PO Wall, Garden from Hell... just a couple of things that come to mind.... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Potter's Point : Caveman (5.11+)
By: steve edwards When: Apr 1, 2014

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Comments: No idea what's broken or not but back when it was bolted, Wolfgang didn't get it in a day, and we'd all done Makunaima in Teva's (granted we could do it blindfolded, too). So something was hard about it. Comparing it to Drive By Shooting isn't really even the same sport, since that's a glorified slab. DBS is super hard to sort but, once you know where to go, kind of casual if you're good on your feet. This has a move that's always a move, which at the time felt a lot harder than the crux of Powe... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : She had nothing to do with ... (V6)
By: steve edwards When: Mar 6, 2014

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Comments: A flexing jug in Santa Barbara, impossible! The massive jug on the low traverse has been flexing since the mid 90s as is still there, and usable, so it's possible to get lucky. Give it a LONG time after rain. In SB, stuff soaks up water and can hold onto it for weeks, maybe months (the mouth had an entire unclimbable season after '95--record rain year). We almost never pulled off holds when completely dry. Soon after rain, however, and almost everything up there is suspect. The rock is like a sp... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : West Bell Tower : Ring That Bell (5.13b R)
By: steve edwards When: Feb 27, 2014

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Comments: Don't know how I'm just seeing this. Awesome, job, Brad! Inspiring write-up, too.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : Eudemonic (5.11d)
By: steve edwards When: Feb 7, 2014

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Comments: belayed by Chest Rockwell


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle
By: steve edwards When: Jan 20, 2014

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Comments: I had to rap this wall once. Would never, ever, do it again and would rather take my chances with lightning, which is something I try and avoid at all costs. Even Black Streak is a crap shoot. If there are others on a route don't climb it. I wouldn't want to be on this wall if there were other people on any route if it meant that at some point they were walking off above me. Big stuff comes down this cliff everyday, even when you've got it to yourself.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Cathedral Peak
By: steve edwards When: Jan 16, 2014

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Comments: Well, since someone's gone up here to boulder I would suggest the front side approach. It's a lot longer but has very little bushwhacking (depending upon how recently someone's trimmed it but it gets used as a hike and is mainly manicured every so often). Unlike the hellish back side approach, it's a great hike and, sheesh, based on how long it's taking people here to burrow through the manzanita and poison oak it might even be shorter. Granted, I'm a fast hiker, but I've gone car to car with a ... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Upper Gibraltar : Dazed and Confused (5.10b)
By: steve edwards When: Jan 12, 2014

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Comments: We originally placed a rap anchor on the ledge. Someone (a local who hated paying for bolts/hangers and would borrow old hardware off anything short of stripping a route that was popular) pilfered the belay. I found the anchor on one of his routes later. I would have replaced them, because the ledge is a spectacular belay, but I wasn't guiding anymore and you can both belay on the ledge with gear and rap off of another route. I don't think anyone would care if that belay was replaced for conveni... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Creamery
By: steve edwards When: Dec 9, 2013

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Comments: Love the old school guide. Actual artwork. So cool. Isn't there a program that can do that for you though?


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : ... : The Yowie Project (V7-8)
By: steve edwards When: Oct 26, 2013

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Comments: Clearly it needs to get done with the dyno start for a pure direct line. I would think this is a good eliminate.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Crag Full of Dynamite : Unknown (5.7)
By: steve edwards When: Sep 16, 2013

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Comments: Thank you.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Mount Olympus : North Summit : Fuck It Dude, Let's Go Bowl... (5.7)
By: steve edwards When: Sep 9, 2013

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Comments: I think it's the best route name in the database. Went okay for me. The Dude's car got a little beat up.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Membrane : Unknown (5.11d)
By: steve edwards When: Sep 4, 2013

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Comments: It's not that perfect. 11a when it went up but stuff keeps breaking. Getting pretty clean now though and, agreed, we thought it was harder than Little Big Wall (but same grade) when we did it last.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Gibraltar Rock : ... : Photo
By: steve edwards When: Aug 17, 2013

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Comments: Super rad.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Goldak (V0)
By: steve edwards When: Aug 17, 2013

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Comments: Check the Goldak reading.

T. Servo


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : Jah Hole
By: steve edwards When: Aug 13, 2013

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Comments: Burritos, beer, and Life Aquatic. I wonder if he recognized me.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : The Hell of Being Crushed A... (5.13a)
By: steve edwards When: May 23, 2013

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Comments: No, it says "Keep Out".


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Green Dome : North Face (aka Kryptor) : What have you done with spo... (5.7)
By: steve edwards When: Dec 19, 2012

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Comments: A better variation is to turn the corner and traverse to the right anchors. It's juggy but steep and adds a grade or two but makes this an actual warm-up.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Green Dome : North Face (aka Kryptor) : Kingdom of the Green Light (5.11a)
By: steve edwards When: Dec 19, 2012

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Comments: Doniel Drazen bolted and led it. Yeah, it probably feels too hard but it's the Green Dome and that's the way things roll until you're used to it.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Desperate Hours (V2+)
By: steve edwards When: Dec 12, 2012

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Comments: There is actually only one way to do this. If you go up Sudden Fear and then right that's MUCH easier. Start under She Had... as far as you can go and traverse right, staying low, through Sudden Fear, where you make a long move up and right (can't miss it as it's, by far, the crux), then hang on to top out on Nightmare... Of course all the holds may have broken since I've done it last but that seems unlikely. Hasn't been THAT long.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Parley's Canyon : Riptide Wall : Jazz the Glass (5.11+)
By: steve edwards When: Dec 12, 2012

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Comments: I'm thinking of removing the bolts and cleaning the holes so that RB's can be placed. This will keep you on the arete, as well as adding a little trad spice if you like placing those things on lead (but would also make a convenient TR with one). Downside is not many folks own them so if anyone's curious and thinks the bolts should be left, which a few people have said to me offline, please give 'er a go and state your case. I'll wait until it warms up to change things, as it's not a particularly... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Parley's Canyon : Riptide Wall : Jazz the Glass (5.11+)
By: steve edwards When: Dec 1, 2012

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Comments: That's good feedback. The no star comment refers to the Ruckman guide. Do you really think clipping the last bolt detracts from DRH? By the time you're standing there it's, like, 5.6 or 7 to the anchors, tops. The only way you'd fall during the next section is if one of those blocks ripped off the wall (and then you might appreciate protection away from the natural line as it could keep your rope from being chopped. However, if you thought you might fall in that section you could place something... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Parley's Canyon : Riptide Wall : Jazz the Glass (5.11+)
By: steve edwards When: Nov 28, 2012

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Comments: Here's how this went down.

Group was climbing DRH and I asked them about the arete. They tried to climb it but bailed because it was "scary" to stay on the arete (they were TR'ing). So I climbed it and, yes, you do face a strange fall off of moves that are tricky to sort out but the moves but it was really fun. Anyway, we talked about how if you bolted it to force you onto the arete it would be cool addition but weren't into it at the time.

This year I was looking to do a 5.12 challenge and... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Parley's Canyon : Riptide Wall : Jazz the Glass (5.11+)
By: steve edwards When: Nov 28, 2012

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Comments: Agreed, it's a total squeeze, but the bolts force you to stay on the arete (or face a strange fall at best) so the climbing is completely different from DRH (and much better IMO). And, I mean, it's not like this is unique for the area. Astroprojection off routes holds, and entire arete of em, that are inches from holds you use. Didn't make up the rules. Just playin' by 'em while trying to get the most out of a limited crag.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Photo
By: steve edwards When: Nov 18, 2012

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Comments: Jesus. Don't even remember those pants. Must have been the 6th martini.


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