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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Green Dome : North Face (aka Kryptor) : What have you done with spo... (5.7)
By: steve edwards When: Dec 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A better variation is to turn the corner and traverse to the right anchors. It's juggy but steep and adds a grade or two but makes this an actual warm-up.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Green Dome : North Face (aka Kryptor) : Kingdom of the Green Light (5.11a)
By: steve edwards When: Dec 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Doniel Drazen bolted and led it. Yeah, it probably feels too hard but it's the Green Dome and that's the way things roll until you're used to it.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Desperate Hours (V2+)
By: steve edwards When: Dec 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is actually only one way to do this. If you go up Sudden Fear and then right that's MUCH easier. Start under She Had... as far as you can go and traverse right, staying low, through Sudden Fear, where you make a long move up and right (can't miss it as it's, by far, the crux), then hang on to top out on Nightmare... Of course all the holds may have broken since I've done it last but that seems unlikely. Hasn't been THAT long.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Parley's Canyon : Riptide Wall : Jazz the Glass (5.11+)
By: steve edwards When: Dec 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm thinking of removing the bolts and cleaning the holes so that RB's can be placed. This will keep you on the arete, as well as adding a little trad spice if you like placing those things on lead (but would also make a convenient TR with one). Downside is not many folks own them so if anyone's curious and thinks the bolts should be left, which a few people have said to me offline, please give 'er a go and state your case. I'll wait until it warms up to change things, as it's not a particularly... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Parley's Canyon : Riptide Wall : Jazz the Glass (5.11+)
By: steve edwards When: Dec 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: That's good feedback. The no star comment refers to the Ruckman guide. Do you really think clipping the last bolt detracts from DRH? By the time you're standing there it's, like, 5.6 or 7 to the anchors, tops. The only way you'd fall during the next section is if one of those blocks ripped off the wall (and then you might appreciate protection away from the natural line as it could keep your rope from being chopped. However, if you thought you might fall in that section you could place something... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Parley's Canyon : Riptide Wall : Jazz the Glass (5.11+)
By: steve edwards When: Nov 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Here's how this went down.
Group was climbing DRH and I asked them about the arete. They tried to climb it but bailed because it was "scary" to stay on the arete (they were TR'ing). So I climbed it and, yes, you do face a strange fall off of moves that are tricky to sort out but the moves but it was really fun. Anyway, we talked about how if you bolted it to force you onto the arete it would be cool addition but weren't into it at the time.
This year I was looking to do a 5.12 challenge and... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Parley's Canyon : Riptide Wall : Jazz the Glass (5.11+)
By: steve edwards When: Nov 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agreed, it's a total squeeze, but the bolts force you to stay on the arete (or face a strange fall at best) so the climbing is completely different from DRH (and much better IMO). And, I mean, it's not like this is unique for the area. Astroprojection off routes holds, and entire arete of em, that are inches from holds you use. Didn't make up the rules. Just playin' by 'em while trying to get the most out of a limited crag.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Photo
By: steve edwards When: Nov 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jesus. Don't even remember those pants. Must have been the 6th martini.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Emigration Canyon : Freeze Creek : Laminar Flow (5.11a A0)
By: steve edwards When: Nov 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Who changed this to 11a? Maybe 11a A0 but would be much much harder to free.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Westmont College Boulder : Honk If You love Jesus (V5+)
By: steve edwards When: Oct 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: My memory is getting fuzzier. While I did, in fact, spend what seems like a ridiculous amount of time at this boulder I don't remember this either. Oddly enough things do change on soft sandstone boulders. If it feels that much harder I'm sure it is and wouldn't hesitate to change the grade.
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Location: UT : Echo Canyon : The Dry Wall : Wicked Bender (5.13a)
By: steve edwards When: Oct 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think it's been sorted. This starts on The Pit and, yes, isn't 13b. Derailed has the funky start moves.
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Location: UT : Echo Canyon : The Dry Wall : Derailed (5.13b)
By: steve edwards When: Oct 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: That might clear up some confusion here about grades. This start is much harder than Wicked Bender.
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Location: CA : Los Angeles County : Santa Monica Mountains : Paleface : Paleface (5.10d)
By: steve edwards When: Sep 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: 3 stars?! Oh good lord! Compared to what?
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Location: UT : Oquirrh Mountains : Ophir Canyon : Portwoods Wall : The Great Milenko (5.11c)
By: steve edwards When: Sep 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: If this is the route I'm thinking of I'd say you're selling it short. It's sustained and interesting climbing on great rock to a big rest, followed by super steep and juggy climbing to the anchors. By far, in my opinion, the best route at Ophir and would be popular at any climbing area I can think of.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : ... : Paradise Blend (V4-)
By: steve edwards When: Aug 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Once heinous but easy to see how it could get easier as it was always dirty as sin. While crimp problems will continue to get harder, slopers at the yard should get a lot better before they get worse, if it ever comes to that. Can't imagine how much traffic it would take to polish this rock.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : ... : Arachnophobia (V3+)
By: steve edwards When: Aug 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Done this many times over the last 20 years or so and each time it's like a whole new problem. I think it was first V0- and has been creeping up every since. When it finally cleans up it will likely be quite hard!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Membrane : Reverse Traverse (5.11b)
By: steve edwards When: Aug 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Which bolts, or are you just traversing the base and climbing COS?
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Membrane : Little Big Wall (5.11d)
By: steve edwards When: Aug 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is actually quite good and, now that there are more routes on this wall, should get enough traffic to keep it clean. Even though it's short it's all engaging climbing, making it feel like a worthy route. Not a one-move wonder at all.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : High Hat (V5-)
By: steve edwards When: Aug 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A little history: this was one of the first 'modern' problems at the Mouth (meaning stuff not in the mouth or at Meilee that wasn't super obvious). I'd been climbing at the Swimming Hole and armed with how those guys (Anderson, Johnson) read boulders figured we could really change the SB landscape for bouldering. I was wandering around the Mouth checking stuff out and found this on a summer afternoon where it was too hot to stick very well. I made a deal with myself that I wouldn't leave until I... more >>
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Experiment in Terror (V2 PG13)
By: steve edwards When: Aug 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Seeing this pop up on my Mountain Project homepage as a classic makes me happy. Just sayin', there were good times involved here.
When we originally did this we weren't sure if we'd hit the back wall on a fall. Thus the experiment. Eventually someone did fall off, and it was a perfect landing, but the potential still gives me pause when I haven't done it in a while.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Broads Fork : Plimsol Line (5.12b)
By: steve edwards When: Jul 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Guess it depends what you're good at. BIJ is headier, that's for sure, but less physical. Solid Big 12b on both accounts.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : ... : Yeti Direct (V7)
By: steve edwards When: Jun 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm not sure if we ever did this. I certainly tried it but, like Bob, said, it was really chossy so it was never worth more than trying something different. I remember a day where a bunch of us were trying it but just can't remember. If we did do this move we for certain did the standard Yeti finish. The top of the boulder was always a mess in those days and it wasn't until we began trying Sasquatch that I made an effort to clean it up in a way it might stay clean. Could totally be a worthy prob... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Hard Rock : Dreadlocks (5.12b)
By: steve edwards When: Jun 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agreed it's hard for 12a. Not sure about c though, but maybe (hopefully). I've been calling it "super hard 12a" and agree that it's great and deserves more traffic. One of the best pitches in the area.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Grandeur Peak : Upper Reef : Mocha Salsa (5.10-)
By: steve edwards When: May 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not duplicate. Head up hill from Rocket and then do a bit of steep henious-ness to the base of something that looks pretty steep. There's a route and it's not a slab. Easier approach from top down gulley to its east but would be very hard to find and there's no trail so you're scrub scrambling either way. You could probably fit another steep-ish climb here, which would make it more worth the trouble. Anyone... Ha?!
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : ... : All Mod Cons (V9)
By: steve edwards When: May 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: As I recall in Paul's vid the girl uses the big hold on Standing on the Corner... which it looks like Andy is going to in the pic here. Significantly easier!
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