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Member Since: May 3, 2004
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
Contact steve edwards

Point Rank: # 1,034
Total Points: 718
Last Year: 167
Last 30 Days: 166
5 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has steve edwards been climbing?










Contributions


All 559 | Routes 35 | Areas 7 | Photos 11 | Page Improvements | Comments 208 | Posts 151 | Stars 136 | Ratings 11
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Millcreek Canyon : The Stitches Wall
By: steve edwards When: 9 hours ago

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Comments: During cancer treatment, I cleaned this place up and made it somewhere I could get some exercise by myself, probably exhausting its potential beyond any sort of rationale. The base is still loose but the rock on the routes is actually decent. Hopefully it'll be worth it to someone other than my chemo brain.


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : Mill Canyon : Mill Canyon West
By: steve edwards When: 1 day ago

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Comments: This is always going to be a "how you find it" crag. Fun, though, and more traffic can only help. Very nice hang, too.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Choss Garden : Garden Party (5.11a)
By: steve edwards When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Nice work!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Choss Garden : Nettle (5.11)
By: steve edwards When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Agree but the chains should be replaced. Very rusty.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Choss Garden : Mellow Gold (5.12b)
By: steve edwards When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Agree with the upgrade. This route was always stout at 12a. For me, Benefactor is easier.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Choss Garden : The Benefactor (5.12b)
By: steve edwards When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Thanks for the upgrades. Definitely needed. Great route.


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : Mill Canyon : Mill Canyon West
By: steve edwards When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Good wall but takes some getting used to. The warm-up is terrible. We warm-up on the third, I think, line that is quality, maybe skipping the initial pulls and do the top. Route with the fixed draws I thought was 13a, but 12b if you use one draw as a hold and a great training route. Scary route on right side is quite good once it's set up. Maybe adding a bolt is a good idea. The 12a/b (b I think) is kind of the classic of the crag. Really good. This is a very sunny place. I've climbed here when ... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Choss Garden : Daisy (5.10)
By: steve edwards When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Got permission from Andy and added the extension. Was supposed to get a different anchor. I have it if you want to put it in. Forces you to clip from the jugs on top and not clip before the move. Great warm-up. Super steep and fun, and allows you to hang draws on all of the right routes.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Choss Garden : The Bridge to Total Freedom (5.12a)
By: steve edwards When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Meant to add an anchor but Mick started ultra running and I adopted two cattle dogs, effectively ending my run as "mayor". You can reach over and clip the Mellow Gold anchors, so this was never a safely issue.

As I told Boissal, fix anything. Glue, whatever. Just keep the routes nice. This cliff will continue to exfoliate. It's the nature of the "choss garden", but worth a little effort for such nice climbing.

Splitting hairs on where to go. We had a couple of sequences. One harder, one scar... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Choss Garden : Pitbulls on Crack (5.12a)
By: steve edwards When: 2 days ago

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Comments: This route hadn't seen an ascent in years so I added chains and an anchor to keep it safe, since the first couple of bolts are on sketchy rock with hard clips. This greatly increased its popularity. It still needs a new anchor, just because the bolts are old. The fixed pin could blow and you'll be safe but, ya know, could be modernized.

I also used this to warm-up for BD, and it's a super fun, jug fest. The chains were just to get folks on it, and make things convenient for me as well (althoug... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Choss Garden
By: steve edwards When: 2 days ago

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Comments: As the once-dubbed "mayor" of the crag, I'll weigh in a bit. I think this means you're the only one who climbs here, which was the case for a few years. I'll add bits for each route but, when we put the chains on, it was to facilitate climbing on the left side so that you didn't need to walk the ramp when other people were climbing. Not that they were too often.

In winter, this wall is hot. You can climb here, if it's not seeping, until temps are in the teens.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Crag Full of Dynamite : The Ecstacy of Gold (5.8)
By: steve edwards When: Nov 4, 2015

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Comments: Probably worth noting that I bolted this, and thus the crag, when I saw this line with a thin layer of ice on it one winter and thought that might be fun to try. Turns out it was okay as a rock climb. Some guy I brought here once said "why would you bolt this?" Wasn't the last time I heard that line.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Potter's Point : Ms. T (5.8)
By: steve edwards When: Feb 5, 2015

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Comments: This is very common in SB, especially places with softer rock like Potter's, but routes need maintenance everywhere and these routes are 20 years old. Keep in mind the bolts are 1/2X4, so there is very little (like impossible) chance of them coming out as you lower off, even if they become completely disengaged and spin freely. A simple stud in a hole that deep would be safe, and there are two--of course knowing this didn't help me feel very safe rapping off one spinning carrot bolt in Australia... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Painted Cave : ... : Break on Through (V9)
By: steve edwards When: Feb 1, 2015

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Comments: Wills' beta is insane if you're tall. Granted, I'm not the strongest or most flexible person on the planet but getting your foot that close to your hands using those holds was something that was never going to happen for me, no matter how much Bikram I could stomach.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : ... : Watch the Dog (V4)
By: steve edwards When: Jan 3, 2015

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Comments: Vid brings back old memories of roaming around out there alone and finding these things and being shocked if ever I'd see anyone, so I had that reaction to seeing other people in the background. Me, Perlin, and Jason Houston spent years trying to get people psyched on the yard but no one ever wanted to go out , at least until Bob moved to town. Watch the Dog was just me and a brush (no pads yet). It might have been years until I found someone to go out and do it with me.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : Hai Karate (5.12d)
By: steve edwards When: Nov 18, 2014

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Comments: Although, as Ben Moon said, if you can't do the moves then there's nothing to endure. The crux is this is pretty damn hard. Or used to be.

But I only popped in here to comment that this route showed up as a highlighted classic here on Mountain Project. Jesus Christ, the one it took the place of was a classic Spanish limestone masterpiece. I mean, I'm sure Phil's further cleaning was magnificent but, um, still. Inverted sandbox or Oliana? All 4 star routes are not created equal. Now wondering i... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : The Old Pro Skill (5.12d)
By: steve edwards When: Nov 4, 2014

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Comments: Sounds like somebody's using the old pro skill on him and my man's fallin' for it.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : Echo Rock - South Face : My Idea of Fun (5.12d PG13)
By: steve edwards When: Oct 31, 2014

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Comments: The story I heard, from either Thaw or the Fish, was that Bourne called it 14c, making it arguably the hardest route in the world at the time (Hubble and AD had yet to be upgraded), and went on local TV to claim the world's hardest route was in Josh. Myles on sighted the second ascent, confirming the c but slashing two numbers off the 14.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Doom Wall
By: steve edwards When: Oct 25, 2014

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Comments: Interested to see if Owltoberfest gets anyone on these routes. There's another in between Shotgun and ADK that I put up. I don't remember the name but, somehow, it wound up as a 10 in my guide and it's way harder. Mid 11 as I recall. Other than Shores, routes on this wall feel incredibly bleak, although there was a short time when they were fun when we did them regularly (like 20 years ago). Hopefully some traffic will shape it up somewhat. For sure, more potential exists here.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Mr. Lees Greater Hong Kong : Crocodile Hunter (5.13a)
By: steve edwards When: Oct 25, 2014

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Comments: It's also super fun. One of the better routes in the area. And long. With the crux at the end.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Mr. Lees Greater Hong Kong : Pork Chop Express (5.12c)
By: steve edwards When: Oct 25, 2014

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Comments: Other than one move, which is sharp and hard, I think it's super fun. The rest is very pumpy and skin friendly, so come to terms with the move and it's great for mileage.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Mr. Lees Greater Hong Kong : Sea of Love (5.12b)
By: steve edwards When: Oct 25, 2014

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Comments: This is a serious pile. Needs a sea of love in order to be climbable.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Mr. Lees Greater Hong Kong : The New Legend of Shaolin (5.12d)
By: steve edwards When: Oct 25, 2014

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Comments: This thing climbs really well and "hanging in there" is relative, as is the comment about being the lightest 13a in the area. Okay, sure, maybe in the immediate area (MrLees/Tor) but don't expect a standard SoCal/Shelf Road/Intermountain West/Smith Rocks/ Yosemite/Spain 13a either.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Mr. Lees Greater Hong Kong : Buddhist Palm (5.14a)
By: steve edwards When: Oct 21, 2014

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Comments: Redpointed last weekend by Elijah Ball. Grade bumped to 14a. Probably conservative as it's been changing regularly over the years and began at 13d 20 years ago.

Congrats, Slim!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Gordon's Direct (5.11b R)
By: steve edwards When: Oct 15, 2014

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Comments: Haha, yeah, that damn Steve Hong, wussing out and adding bolts to everything. Guess he was too weak to be up for heady and awesome. I sure hope he did something else in his climbing career to make up for this.


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