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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 5 days ago
Contact Steve "Crusher" Bartlett

Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
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Point Rank: # 236
Total Points: 2,672
Last Year: 247
Last 30 Days: 2
264 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Steve "Crusher" Bartlett been climbing?










Steve "Crusher" Bartlett

 
Contributions

Contributions


All 716 | Routes 56 | Areas 22 | Photos 318 | Page Improvements | Comments 192 | Posts 45 | Stars 78 | Ratings 5
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Oracle : Fantasia (5.10- C2 R) : Photo
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: 5 days ago

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Comments: As best I recall, we climbed the whole section on the right (east) side, with a diversion onto the top (which went nowhere except back down again). Last section was a bit dicey, tensioning to a final, nice, diagonal crack that dumped us out on the big ledge overlooking the chimney/chasm. Kinda hazy now through. We fixed ropes on the left as this was more slabby and it made more sense, so some of my photos are taken from this side as we went up and down our ropes (this was long before there was a... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : Middle Fork of St. Vrain Ca... : Piz Badille : ... : Photo
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Aug 28, 2016

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Comments: Looks exactly what we did yesterday and what I've usually done for P1. Currently there's a knifeblade piton at the overlap (just where there's a white dot against black) and a couple dots above is a welcome jug that looks solid but moved and almost came off.


Location: WY : Laramie Range : Laramie Peak Wildlife Habit... : Kennedy Ranch Rocks : the Meadow Mound : Tiger Woods Me on Tiger Roc... (5.8)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Aug 23, 2016

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Comments: Nice climb, takes the steeper and best rock hereabouts. More like 5.9+ for the bulge near the top, just before joining the other route. Shares last couple bolts and anchor (rap hangers) with route to the right. Red line in photo goes too far up the cliff.


Location: WY : Laramie Range : Laramie Peak Wildlife Habit... : Kennedy Ranch Rocks : the Meadow Mound : A Lube Job on Tiger Rock (5.8)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Aug 23, 2016

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Comments: This has a different name in the guidebook. Rating here, 5.8 is about right. Fun climbing (though the crux and best bit is part of the route just left, they join for the last couple bolts). The red line is in the right place but goes farther up the cliff, beyond where the the rap hangers are encountered. Anchor is shared with next route to the left.


Location: WY : Laramie Range : Laramie Peak Wildlife Habit... : Kennedy Ranch Rocks : the Meadow Mound : A Blast from the Past (5.8)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Aug 23, 2016

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Comments: Fun route! Beware lowering,the geometry is strange, it's easy to be sucked rightward you go down the slabby face, but a slip can suck one left, around the arete ending with a hard impact into the dihedral.


Location: WY : Laramie Range : Laramie Peak Wildlife Habit... : Kennedy Ranch Rocks : the Meadow Mound : Revert to a Pervert (5.9)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Aug 23, 2016

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Comments: Referred to as Arpanet in the guidebook. Straightforward (5.6-ish) with obvious step right to finish. Direct finish seemed contrived.


Location: UT : Burr Trail / Long Canyon
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Aug 2, 2016

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Comments: Link to the relevant page of the BLM website quoted by Darren above:

blm.gov/ut/st/en/fo/grand_stai...

Now I look at this, it appears they have an ambitious WSA designation plan, covering large swaths of the monument. If so, this sucks in view of the restrictive climbing policy; there's areas that appear to fall into their WSA zoning that are utterly trashed by cows, tumbleweed hell. Maybe I'm rea... more >>


Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Myopia (5.11a) : Photo
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Jul 7, 2016

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Comments: Thanks Mike! Fast work! I just sent messages to dave and Mike asking for them to delete their comments so I can more the photo, but sounds like you are way ahead of me, thanks.


Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Myopia (5.11a) : Photo
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Jul 7, 2016

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Comments: Whoops, you are right, I think it's actually Myopia. I'll move this. Thanks dave and Mike!

Hmm, the site won't let me delete this. I think maybe because it has comments attached.


Location: WY : Laramie Range : Laramie Peak Wildlife Habit... : Douthitt Mountain : Stuffed Valley : Blunt Aawareness (5.8+)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Jun 26, 2016

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Comments: Not dirty, nice climbing, edges, side pulls on fine rock. Nicer than Poverty Trap. Getting off ground seemed crux.


Location: WY : Laramie Range : Laramie Peak Wildlife Habit... : Douthitt Mountain : Stuffed Valley : Douhitt Flow (5.10b)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Jun 26, 2016

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Comments: Excellent. I think more like 8 bolts. Crux is probably getting past the first couple. This would be a classic anywhere, superb moves, great variety, wonderful rock.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Oracle : Beaking In Tongues (5.8 A4)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Feb 10, 2016

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Comments: Looks like the Supertopo trip report's gone.
Trip report from the first ascent:
deserttowersbook.com/node/20


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Ultraman Wall : Scent of the Ultraman (5.7)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Dec 27, 2015

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Comments: Really fun climb. Except for the chipped holds. Someone VERY recently (still lots of dust around) did some of the most heinous chipping I've ever seen in almost 40 years of climbing. On a 5.7? WTF? Appears to be done with a power drill, from the messy peck marks around the chiseled holds.

Some bolts on this route appeared to be very new, so same drill may have placed (replaced?) these and chiseled holds at the same time?


Location: UT : Grand Staircase : Cannonville Area : The Colossus of Cannonville
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Dec 27, 2015

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Comments: Thank you, Access Fund: "The best maps we found showed a boundary going straight north-south though the formation. West side is GSENM, East side looks to be private (a ranch-house is visible from the summit). From the southern tip, a fence line heads south, supporting this conclusion."

Yes, before we started climbing this formation, we checked in with the rangers at GSENM and Kodachrome Basin. We made sure to keep ourselves and the route we did on the west side. There is a square parcel of land... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Nov 23, 2015

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Comments: Late November 2015: Anyone rapping from to of Castleton, be sure to use the correct rap anchor. The recent high-line between Castleton and Rectory utilized new bolts near the edge of the summit. These are new, massive, about 3/4-inch diameter, not really equipped for rope retrieval, and a rappel from them will leave you stranded (yes, there was a rescue last night due to someone making this mistake). The correct anchor down the north face, has 1/2-inch bolts, hangers and lots of chains.


Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Dewey Bridge : Loathing- Less Clothing (5.7 C1)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Nov 22, 2015

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Comments: Climbed the south tower, Fear, today. Placed just one piton, a large (and bomber) BD Pecker at the top. Nuts, RPs and cams for the rest, not too difficult. Maybe I'll create a separate page.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Navajolands : Cleopatra's Needle Area
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Oct 11, 2015

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Comments: The East Face of Cleos, the West Face of Venus Needle, the West Buttress of Navajo Needle (the classic routes on each of these three towers) all go free. No pitons needed.
1. Cleos, (via the original direct line) is about C2 or C2+, bring LOTS of med-large stoppers (some may be hard to clean).
2. Venus Needle West Face C2, crux leaving the first belay with awkward stemming and/or awkward big cams;
3. Navajo Needle West Face C2. One or two thin crack sections now have pin scars that tak... more >>


Location: WY : Laramie Range : Laramie Peak Wildlife Habit... : The Toaster Wall
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Jun 22, 2015

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Comments: Mid-June 2015, this road access to Toaster Rock appears to be officially, though temporarily closed. There's a "Road Closed" sign. We drove a little ways in to camp away from the main road. Long hike. The nasty part of the road is ~halfway (on the map, that would be above the "h" of the red "the" of "...the Toaster Wall." Mud is axle deep for a short uphill section.


Location: WY : Laramie Range : Laramie Peak Wildlife Habit... : Laramie River Canyon Rocks
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Jun 22, 2015

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Comments: Dirt roads around here have been affected by the 2015 spring rains.

1. As of mid-June 2015, just beyond the Green Gate is a muddy wash, followed by more deep mud ruts. We used 4WD, high clearance. Not sure if 2WD would work right now. YMMV. Doubtless it'll dry out with time and drier weather.

2. Beyond, the road almost disappears under an ocean of waist-high grasses, with occasional deep ruts hiding underneath, again, 4WD high clearance is prudent.

3. All trace of the 300-yard side-road on th... more >>


Location: WY : Laramie Range : Laramie Peak Wildlife Habit... : Laramie River Canyon Rocks : Gneiss Canyon : Bonnie Lass (5.8)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Jun 22, 2015

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Comments: Excellent climbing! Eldoesque and continuously interesting. Vertical start, then lots of nice edges and crimps and just a tad under vertical, to a slabby finish.

Counted 8 bolts, plus two rap hangers at top (no rings/links, just fat rappel hangers, so best to rappel when done).


Location: UT : Grand Staircase : The Desert Wedding Site : The Groom's Tower : The Leap of Faith (5.4 R)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: May 11, 2015

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Comments: The "lover's leap!" Not the best landing, on serrated coral limestone blocks.

It's also possible to stem across. Returning this way it becomes apparent that where you left the Bride's Tower is a ridiculously thin diving-board plate of brittle limestone, outrageously undercut. If it broke you'd plummet and there would undoubtedly be a razor-sharp edge for the rope to run over. Highly recommended....


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Viewfinder Towers : Johnny Hanksville of Mars (5.11a)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: May 10, 2015

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Comments: Stopped by to check this out. Man, there's a lot of bolts.

First ascent, aid climb, solo, used no bolts, no drilled holes, except two rappel bolts at top.

Second ascent of tower, belayed by partners, also climbed on aid, with hammer and pitons, added thirteen more bolts to this little tower?

Maybe I'm silly to still hew to the traditional ethic of keeping the hole count low on new routes .... it's more work and time and even risk. But otherwise there's not much uncertainty left. And you gotta... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : State Highway 313 : Red Rocket Tower- Afternoon... (5.11+ C1 PG13)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Nov 13, 2014

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Comments: Climbed this Nov 2014. Notes:
1. For aiding, the rack is huge! Many, many cams from fingers (about first 30 feet or so) to ring-lock size to tight hands to hands to rattly hands and eventually fists, 180 feet up.

2. This may go free. There are a couple spots with hands-off rests that could be used to break up this monster pitch into 2 or 3 shorter pitches (or to stop and haul up more gear).

3. The rock is basically sound and yet threw a bunch of loose flakes/holds off. In particular entering t... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Devil's Golf Ball
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Nov 1, 2014

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Comments: First Ascent: Kyle Copelend, Ron Olevsky.

Original name, from the FA party, of the formation: "The Bulbous Head"


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Devil's Golf Ball : Regular Route (5.9 C1)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Nov 1, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: First Ascent: Kyle Copelend, Ron Olevsky.

Original name, from the FA party, of the formation: "The Bulbous Head"


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