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Member Since: Sep 14, 2007
Last Visit: 10 hours ago
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All (136) | Routes (1) | Areas | Photos (22) | Comments (11) | Posts (37) | Stars (38) | Ratings (27)

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Courtright Reservoir : Leopold Dome : Little Leopold (5.10c)
By: Steve Blevins When: Sep 16, 2013

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Comments: Upon reflection, P1 should probably get an R rating. P2 starts with a tough 5.9ish move, continuous 5.8 after. If you are not a strong 5.10+ leader like Brian, you are going to want more big stuff for the flake to lower your stress levels. A 2nd blue and gray would greatly increase the safety of the sustained 5.9 odd crack. 4th pitch takes 200'+ to make it to a belay tree. Exit the left facing corner system to the left to a good, short 5.8 crack and then follow the crack/groove system to the tre... more >>


Location: alpinista83 : Other Notable Favorites : Photo
By: Steve Blevins When: Jun 8, 2013

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Comments: There's better (multi-pitch trad) granite east of the Mississippi? In the world?


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : La Cosita, Right (5.10a)
By: Steve Blevins When: Sep 16, 2012

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Comments: I was baffled by all the 5.9 rates of this climb. Not 5.9+, just run of the mill 5.9. I can see why the 5.11 and 5.12 leaders thought this was 5.9. Most of the raters do not give their ability and whether they lead this climb, onsight or otherwise. I really don't care what number you give this route, it is what it is, and 5.9 routes like this are not uncommon in my limited Yose experience. In fact most areas have climbs like this, usually with the dreaded + designation. But there will be extreme... more >>


Location: Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiG... : 2011-2013 Junk : Photo
By: Steve Blevins When: Jul 10, 2012

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Comments: This is one of the coolest pictures ever. The look on her face (and she seems to be a pretty mellow female otherwise) and the casualness of John are beyond Mona Lisa and American Gothic to me.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Storm Mountain Island : Goodro's Wall (5.10c)
By: Steve Blevins When: Jun 16, 2011

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Comments: I have done this climb maybe 6 times over the last 25 years, never lead it. Last year lead it poorly because of poor cam placement. Talked w/Andy at IME, he suggested nuts. Of course! Made a huge difference today.

On lead I discovered a little easier way to top out moving left. I normally finished fairly straight up, moving slightly right, which might be the basis for the 10b/c rating. For most of the years I did it. it was rated 5.9+. I think objectively, no move is harder than 5.9 (with possi... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : The Hook Direct (5.10c R)
By: Steve Blevins When: Jun 5, 2011

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Comments: I have done this climb numerous times over the last 20 years. I have repeated it 3 times in the last year or so and was struck with how difficult it seemed. I did it 6-4-11 (yesterday) after an excellent season in RR and feeling comfortable in LCC.

In previous years I never even slipped. I have always thought of it as 5.10a. I slipped once and fell once. It has simply weathered off most of the dime and quarter edges that used to be available. 5.10c R is a fair rating.


Location: ClimberSuz : Summit Pose : Photo
By: Steve Blevins When: Sep 7, 2009

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Comments: Wow! How flexible! Now if you could just prove it is you. Steve


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Frogland (5.8)
By: Steve Blevins When: Apr 18, 2009

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Comments: All right, here's the skinny. Climbed Frogland today, I lead first 3 pitches, my partner, Marc Jenson the last. He climbed it some years ago, on sight for me. We used my 60m rope.

Pitch 1: I climbed to a good flat ledge with fixed cam. On the wall to the climber's right were 2 bolts wo/ hangers. above was a rock marked in chalk with 2 x's (Is this where the beer gets its name?) Partner had to simulclimb ~10' to the next ledge.

Pitch 2: Climbed to below roof on large ledge. Protection possibil... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Black Widow Hollow (5.9)
By: Steve Blevins When: Apr 4, 2009

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Comments: As stated, highly physical. I enjoyed immensely but would not do it again. Leading 2nd pitch, quality of many of the holds at critical points suspect. I found myself trying to distribute my pull between holds to lower chance of disaster. The crux chimney really suckers you off course. Harder and less protected than E. Steve


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Varnishing Point (5.8+)
By: Steve Blevins When: Mar 28, 2009

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Comments: Maybe I missed a hold, but the crux moves are as hard as any 5.9 I've done. I had to really crank into the lieback because the patina is so slick my foot popped off with a comfortable lieback start. I found nearby Topless Twins a comfortable 5.9.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak - East : Schaeffer's Delight (5.7)
By: Steve Blevins When: Mar 28, 2009

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Comments: Climbed this route today. Very very nice. Sun 'till noon. You can climb the 2nd and 3rd pitches on a 60m rope if you belay from the 1st large ledge above the book. We did the 2 additional pitches above, they looked inviting compared to the scrub filled gully. They were ok to poor, detracted from the classic pitches below.