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 ADVANCED
climbing in Valle di Mello, Italy


Member Since: Apr 9, 2005
Last Visit: Aug 15, 2013
Contact Stephen Marsh


Point Rank: # 2,798
Total Points: 163
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
15 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has Stephen Marsh been climbing?










Contributions


All (60) | Routes (2) | Areas | Photos (26) | Comments (13) | Posts (6) | Stars (9) | Ratings (4)

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Lone Eagle Peak : North Face (5.7) : Photo
By: Stephen Marsh When: Oct 22, 2009

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Comments: That's wicked cool. Looks like a painting.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Holdout : Beefeater (5.10b)
By: Stephen Marsh When: Oct 4, 2007

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Comments: Terrific climb, makes me love the Voo all the more. P1 was enjoyable and not to be missed, and I'm 6'. Get the rests where you can before the crux finish on P2 and then gun for the top.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Holdout : Currey's Diagonal (5.10b)
By: Stephen Marsh When: Oct 4, 2007

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Comments: This is a lot trickier than it looks from the ground. If you're not solid on 10s, then you better not mind a swinging fall if you blow it getting to the tree. Not dangerous just exciting. I almost blew it grabbing for the tree, then I gave it a big hug. Props to anyone who can sling that and keep going w/o using it! The climbing keeps your attention even after the tree. And the very last section is kinda strange. A unique Vedauwoo classic.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Flying Buttress (5.10b)
By: Stephen Marsh When: Oct 1, 2007

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Comments: Sent this last Saturday, had always had wanted to get on this climb. Looking at it from the trail, you wonder how it could be 10b? You have immediate vertigo upon looking up from the start of this and wonder what you've gotten yourself into. The last half was a battle, pure determination not to fall off - mainly 'cause I didn't want to reclimb to my highpoint. At the end, felt nausea and I think all the blood had left my arms. About gear, I'd agree with the 3.5 if you have the old school BDs, it... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Red Slab : Vapor Trail (5.9)
By: Stephen Marsh When: Sep 25, 2007

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Comments: Just climbed this last weekend, my first time at Red Slab. Thought the route was excellent. Nothing seemed loose on it as someone early stated. From the discussion here it sounds like 1 or 2 bolts have been added. It would definitely be freaky if the current first bolt wasn't there. The bolt spacing was perfect, really added to the excitment. 2 stars seems a low rating for this climb. The climbing stays interesting throughout, but with plenty of rests between the tricky spots. The moves require ... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Cupcake (V1) : Photo
By: Stephen Marsh When: Jun 20, 2006

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Comments: Nice send, way to go for it! I will definitely be checking this out when I get back from Europe.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Roadside Rocks : Dihedral Rock : Coarse and Buggy (5.11a/b)
By: Stephen Marsh When: Feb 17, 2006

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Comments: Just finished 2 weeks in the park and this route was my favorite. Such an aesthetic line and the rock is not rough at all. I used BD microstoppers primarily for the crux, as well as a very small BD stopper and a #0 tcu down low. A blue alien was too large. All the gear is there and it can be very safely led. Get a good rest before the end crux!


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Captain Nemo (5.10d)
By: Stephen Marsh When: Oct 18, 2005

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Comments: Just some clarification, pitch 2 is not 80' long, it's 80' from the anchors to the ground.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of Justice : Officer Friendly (5.11c)
By: Stephen Marsh When: Oct 13, 2005

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Comments: This is a really fun climb, well protected, very overhung but with good holds. I would say that 11c does seem a bit inflated, but to a shorter person or someone who doesn't favor this type of climbing it may be right on. Don't worry too much about the dyno, it is a big lunge for a really good jug, and adds to the excitement. If you're cruising all the 10's at High Wire Crag (left) walk on over and do this. You won't be disappointed.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Poland Hill : Skull (5.10a)
By: Stephen Marsh When: Sep 25, 2005

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Comments: I really enjoy this climb - except for getting around the bird crap in the middle. Have done it twice so far, always in one pitch. The second time I had no one able to second it, so I set a belay at the top, and was able to clean all my gear easily on rappel. Just had to go around back and scramble up to get my anchor pieces. The second half looks alot harder than 10a from the ground but the hidden ledges help alot. Some #1 and .75 camalots are all you need for a quick anchor setup.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Far West End : Balanced Rock Wall : Watermarks (5.8)
By: Stephen Marsh When: Jul 9, 2005

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Comments: I meant just what I wrote, and nothing more! I haven't done enough climbing at Devils Lake to be able to form an opinion as to whether or not Watermarks is one of the great moderates in the area. I knew the climb was popular before doing it, and for me, it didn't hold up to all the hype. As I wrote, I still think it's a good climb worth doing. If it sounded like I was degrading the climbing at the Lake, that was not my intention.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Far West End : Balanced Rock Wall : Watermarks (5.8)
By: Stephen Marsh When: Jul 6, 2005

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Comments: If this climb was anywhere else it would not be considered a classic. That's not to say it's a bad climb, I had fun leading it. The hardest climbing is on the first half and that's also the hardest part to protect. To lead it you better be comfortable at placing really small gear and trusting it. That, or use a crash pad and spotter for the start.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : Cleopatra's Needle : Cleos Needle-Southwest Rib (5.7)
By: Stephen Marsh When: Jul 6, 2005

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Comments: I started in the dihedral to the left of the line drawn in the picture and followed that up till I was at the base of the summit block. I then went around to the right and up to the summit. This route needs to see more traffic, there was too many spiders & webs on the way up. The summit is what earns it 3 stars.