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Member Since: Apr 15, 2002
Last Visit: Apr 23, 2005
Contact Stephen Allen


Point Rank: # 11,287
Total Points: 18
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Stephen Allen been climbing?










Contributions


All 23 | Routes | Areas | Photos 1 | Page Improvements | Comments 13 | Posts 1 | Stars 4 | Ratings 4

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Your Basic Lieback (5.6)
By: Stephen Allen When: Apr 23, 2005

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Comments: Fun! It's easy to make an anchor at the top of the crack with a couple of hand-size cams. The best way to descend is to bring all of your gear from the ledge (i.e. backpack, guidebook, etc.) and then make an easy (4th class / 5.0 ) 10 foot traverse to the left and rappel off of two bolts. I say bring all of your gear since the rappel will take you to the base of the peanuts wall - that way you don't have to hike back up to get your stuff from the ledge. Just be sure to belay for the short tr... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : West Crack (aka Star Wars) (5.8)
By: Stephen Allen When: Apr 19, 2005

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Comments: This was great - we climbed it twice. great protection all the way up (Camalots #0.75, 1 and 2 (bring a couple #2s) and a couple of Aliens - yellow and red. Nuts are useful too) The first 20 feet are on solid holds, the crack is Perfect (#2 Camalots) and the v-slot above it is actually a lot easier than it looks since you can use good holds on the face and on the arete. A #1 and/or a .75 camalot protects the v-slot. Once you're above the v-slot and over a small and ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : The Owl (5.7)
By: Stephen Allen When: Apr 5, 2005

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Comments: I found a stopper below the first belay on The Owl / Cozyhang. I think it's a #11. Give me a call at 303-929-2041 if you want it back.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Boulderado : Mons (5.5)
By: Stephen Allen When: Sep 14, 2003

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Comments: This is a fun route on really good quality rock. It helps build confidence leading, and the crux, a small bulge half way up, is very well protected with a #6 hex (#0.75 Camalot maybe) and is also on good hand holds. Idle Hands is about the same difficulty as Mons, but without any crux really. Be sure that the belayer is anchored if you are leading this climb to prevent any falls to the highway.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Boulderado : Idle Hands (5.6)
By: Stephen Allen When: Sep 13, 2003

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Comments: I think this would be a good lead for a beginner or for someone looking to build back confidence with trad (me in both cases!). Be sure that your belayer is anchored - we used a sling around a big boulder at the base - since any falls before the first piece about 10 feet up would send you and your partner to the highway. It's very consistent climbing, with no real crux except for the top, which we went to the right of making for an easier finish (the same as for Mons, the crack to the right)... more >>


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Carter Lake
By: Stephen Allen When: May 23, 2003

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Comments: Tried lots of other places, as far as mummy pass even, this is still the best place when time is short and energy high, other than the fee (buy a season pass), this is one of the greatest bouldering areas around, especially with Horsetooth messed up by construction.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : The Owl (5.7)
By: Stephen Allen When: Apr 12, 2003

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Comments: I left a 7 BD hex and a carabiner on 4-12-03 to lower from when I got off route. If anyone wants them they are about an inch up and to the left of the woman's head in that picture of the two people at the base of the owl. Once I figured out the route it was really fun (the two roof sections are awkward, but well protected).


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Breezy (5.5)
By: Stephen Allen When: Mar 16, 2003

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Comments: The crux of this climb is right at the start! We started right next to the start of Wind Ridge (the spot where the giant dihedral would touch the ground) and it was definitely a tricky move - be ready to put in pro (green alien works well) right above your head so you can pull up through the first move. The rest of the pitch is super easy (I put in a #1 camalot as a precaution). P2 is a lot of fun! Good protection in big cracks all the way to a huge ledge from which you can walk down. ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : East Slab (5.6)
By: Stephen Allen When: Feb 27, 2003

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Comments: This is a great climb, it was my first lead trad climbing and was really fun. About half to two-thirds of the way up the climb there is a diagonal ledge that traverses a little ways to the climber's left; this is an easier way to climb the route (and probably the right way). I went straight up without traversing and got pretty nervous because of a tricky move to get up to a spot below the final roof (which is really easy). I hope this helps someone to avoid that situation (which wou... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock
By: Stephen Allen When: Jun 26, 2002

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Comments: The area around Mummy Pass (just inside th RMNP boundary), has an abundance of unclimbed boulders, some of which will easiy go V6 or 7. The Mummy Pass trail is off Pingree road near Rustic on hwy 14. If you don't mind a long hike (7mi), and a little altitude 11,500 ft, you will find piles of quality rock. Prepare for cool nights when camping, often below 49F even in summer.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : North Fork of the St. Vrain... : Longmont Reservoir Area (ak...
By: Stephen Allen When: Jun 7, 2002

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Comments: I have never found this to be the case, the Lion's Den area is very isolated (ok the approach includes hiking 1 1/2 miles up a steep draw), but the sheer quality and quantity of problems make for a great day of climbing.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : North Fork of the St. Vrain... : Longmont Reservoir Area (ak...
By: Stephen Allen When: May 1, 2002

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Comments: There is some great bouldering in this area, the Lion's Den is a mere 20 minute hike up the slope opposite the River Wall. Many unclimbed rock still remains in the vicinity with Twin Dinosaurs (only one established problem, "Snott the Mamma" V4, just across a meadow from the Den).


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Carter Lake
By: Stephen Allen When: Apr 15, 2002

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Comments: A great place to climb, one of the few places you can get on the rock several times a week before work and still make it in before the boss. From Loveland it is only a 15 min drive.