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Member Since: Jan 1, 2002
Last Visit: Jul 31, 2004
Contact Stephan Greenway


Point Rank: # 7,176
Total Points: 42
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Stephan Greenway been climbing?










Contributions


All 34 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 32 | Posts | Stars 1 | Ratings
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Hungry Man

V5 6C (1)

Boulder, 10'

CO : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls

Jan 1, 2002

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake
By: Stephan Greenway When: Jul 31, 2004

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Comments: I spent yesterday checking out the new development in this area. There are quite a few moderate routes that have been put in that are not covered on this site or the most recent guidebook.

I noticed that "The Edge of Time" has seen the addition of one new bolt.

Slow down there...before everyone starts slagging away let me add this; recently I was talking with the man most commonly credited with the first ascent of this classic and he mentioned that he wanted to retro-bolt this line... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Twitch Rock : Twitch (5.12d)
By: Stephan Greenway When: Mar 6, 2004

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Comments: Rick, dude quit pounding yor chest and telling us how hard you are and how easy Twitch was for you. There is a fine line between .12d and .13a... for somene to say Twitch felt like .13a is a reasonable comment. In other words saying that this route felt hard for .12d does not automatically translate to "I'm trying to pad my climbing resume by adding another .13".

Twitch is a great route that sits right on the edge of a grade.Some people might find this angle and style of climbing as being m... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Lucky Strikes (5.12b)
By: Stephan Greenway When: Jan 30, 2004

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Comments: Hey D. Rivers that is a great way to put it! I agree. Your friend is right on. I have never been a strong onsight climber but I've always been able to "whittle" a route down until I can do it. I'm sure most of us have had the same experience: we work a route and when it finally goes think "man that felt like 5.11 (5.10 whatever)" I think I've read a lot of people downgrading routes after they have them so wired the can do laps on them. Its always been my opinion that the grade of a route... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Lats Don't Have Feelings (5.11d)
By: Stephan Greenway When: Dec 15, 2003

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Comments: In the immortal words of Hiditaki Sizuki...."First time I climb not so good....second time Onsight Frrrrrash"


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Universal Crag : Palm Pilot (5.13d)
By: Stephan Greenway When: Nov 3, 2003

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Comments: Rob Smale, If Jimmy Redo says the route felt like .13d there is a good chance it is.

Saying that only a solid .14 climber should be grading a route thats .13d a load of crap! So, by that logic, a solid 12 climber should not rate a 11d.....or a solid 5.11 climber shouldn't dare rate a route 5.10d.

Nice send Jimmy!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Coney Island
By: Stephan Greenway When: Sep 15, 2003

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Comments: Peter Beal....c'mon, I think I can formulate a fair opinion on the subject of over-bolting and responsibility when putting up routes without climbing every route somebody decides needs to be fired in.

Sorry I'm down on a few routes, but that's just the way I feel. I never said Coney Island was a pile. In fact I look forward to heading out there and getting on some classic looking lines on the upper tier. I just think somebody got carried away a little on the lower section.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : The Bobsled (5.11c/d)
By: Stephan Greenway When: Sep 14, 2003

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Comments: Great route with two distinct cruxes! Don't miss the right hand sidepull for the lower crux! The second clip was not a problem, maybe I got lucky.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Lucky Strikes (5.12b)
By: Stephan Greenway When: Sep 14, 2003

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Comments: I agree that this is certainly one of the best climbs on the crag! What a find! Clipping the second bolt is certainly the crux. Great movement...nice and pumpy!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Coney Island
By: Stephan Greenway When: Sep 13, 2003

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Comments: Yes, Peter, there are some great routes on the left side of Coney Island. They, however, in no way excuse the over-bolted piles of crap on the right side. It's this sort of irresponsible drilling that gets land managers' attention. Is it too much to ask when we hope that people drilling on public lands show an itty bit of restraint when choosing what to bolt?

I don't need to save my energy to climb...I've got plenty to do both just fine thanks.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Coney Island
By: Stephan Greenway When: Sep 12, 2003

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Comments: Last Sunday while waiting out the rain my friends and I did a little "route appreciation" up and down Boulder Canyon. We stopped and hiked up to check-out Coney Island. The upper tier looked clean, and there are some routes we were all pretty excited about returning to climb on a better day.

But the lower tier was a pile! I was frankly shocked that someone bolted the crap out of the short, right section. In many places these "routes" would be boulder problems.... In my twenty years of climb... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : Osiris (5.7)
By: Stephan Greenway When: May 29, 2003

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Comments: OK, at the risk of getting hammered by my Estes Park buddies, I am going out on a limb here...

This route is....and always has been a worm driving pile of crap. There I said it! I don't know why it gets any stars! If you want to climb a route in this grade range avoid this one like the plague and head straight over to the Left Book.

But I am a sport climbing weenie!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Visor : Hair of the Dog (5.10a)
By: Stephan Greenway When: May 27, 2003

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Comments: It's 5.10 on the "Sport Park Decimal System".


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : Perelandra (5.11a)
By: Stephan Greenway When: May 21, 2003

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Comments: This is a truly great route, but the second pitch has seen a few falls that have resulted in injuries.

I think the first pitch is a wonderful 5.10. If you want to skip the upper pitches you can traverse left and gain the first belay on Fat City and rap off. This little traverse can be a little exciting, and it is always a relief to get your hands into the Fat City Crack!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park
By: Stephan Greenway When: Apr 27, 2003

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Comments: Yeah and in the 50's they were fully sending way rad 5.8's.....DUDE!!!

Maybe all this new traditional gear is helping modern climbers push the grades to new levels. Hey we modern climbers all appreciate and respect what the climbers of past eras were able to accomplish in light of the prehistoric equipment available to them. However, this does not take away from the achievments of todays climbers or religate true traditional climbing to the history books as you seem to be doing.

"For times t... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Hen and Chickens : Hagakure (5.12a)
By: Stephan Greenway When: Apr 19, 2003

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Comments: Oh I need to mention...I replaced the pin that I pulled out but its disappeared since....I'm not sure if its back or not? Brent, can you remember if the center pin is in or not?

All and all a fun little route...too bad it isn't longer it would be a classic!


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Hen and Chickens : Hagakure (5.12a)
By: Stephan Greenway When: Apr 19, 2003

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Comments: Gotta disagree with Nate's comment. Taking a fall on top-rope is neve an issue but falling on those old pins up top could be. I pulled one out with my hands last summer. This is a great and perfectly safe top-rope.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ice Cave Walls : Middle Ice Caves (CHUD area... : Chud (5.13a)
By: Stephan Greenway When: Mar 28, 2003

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Comments: Glad to hear someone found some good rock at Rifle!


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : Weekend Warrior (5.12c/d)
By: Stephan Greenway When: Mar 12, 2003

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Comments: I have to agree that this route should not have been bolted. Some hard trad lines just need to be left for future hard climbers to send...not bolted just because its convenient...


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : Monkey on a String (5.12b)
By: Stephan Greenway When: Mar 12, 2003

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Comments: FA: by Lawrence Steumpke. I remember on of the clips being extremely spooky with the potential of hitting the deck. I guess it was the third....Other then that it was a fun route.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Beige Tube Area / The Narro... : Iron John/Little Tree area : Ironjohn (5.10d)
By: Stephan Greenway When: Mar 4, 2003

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Comments: I'll never be better...after looking at that route I was left scarred for life!!!


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Lower Infirmary Slabs : Look Ma No Hands
By: Stephan Greenway When: Mar 4, 2003

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Comments: What are you talking about??


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag : ... : American Beauty (5.12c)
By: Stephan Greenway When: Mar 1, 2003

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Comments: Bob, I must admit that I completely agree with your view of Rifle. I have climbed there quite a bit and think its completely over-rated. And the way some of the routes were manufactured is quite ridiculous! I suppose people got all psyched on Rifle because it was a limestone crag right here in Colorado!

But I have climbed there and enjoyed some of the better routes. I would be bummed if someone slammed me as a climber just because I climbed at Rifle where some of the routes are manufactured... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag : ... : American Beauty (5.12c)
By: Stephan Greenway When: Mar 1, 2003

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Comments: Matt, I agree with you that its important to slam the issue and not the people. But I don't think you should apologize for expressing your view on the Sport Park and other areas like it. In fact I think you'll find that a high number of climbers agree with you. Lets face it...the Sport Park is seen as sort of a joke by many people in the climbing world. Hey I could care less if people want to go climb there...but the people who developed it should have been prepared for the fall-out that thi... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag : ... : American Beauty (5.12c)
By: Stephan Greenway When: Mar 1, 2003

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Comments: 12c Sport Park....11d in the real world?


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