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 ADVANCED
Top of Mt. Washburn in Yellowstone National Park


Member Since: Mar 8, 2010
Last Visit: Apr 17, 2014
Contact Stefano Prezioso


Point Rank: # 4,193
Total Points: 101
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
3 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Stefano Prezioso been climbing?










Contributions


All 89 | Routes 3 | Areas | Photos 12 | Page Improvements | Comments 11 | Posts 6 | Stars 49 | Ratings 8

Contributed Comments

 

Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Middle Small Wall : Handjob (5.9+)
By: Stefano Prezioso When: Aug 24, 2012

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Comments: I placed everything from a .4 Camalot to a 4 Camalot on this climb. A 5 could have been placed, but isn't needed. If you want to sew it up, here's what I brought.

1 each BD 0.3 - 0.75
2 each BD 1 and 4
3 each BD 2 and 3

Another 3 would have been good, and I didn't place the .3, otherwise everything else got used. Trim down with your own judgement.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Glacier Point Apron : The Grack, Marginal (5.9 R)
By: Stefano Prezioso When: Jun 7, 2012

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Comments: Found a rope twisted and stuck from some anchors to the right of the Marginal line. Untwisted it and freed it up, dropping it to the ground at the base of Marginal. It's sitting down there at the base, coiled, if it's yours and you left it.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Glacier Point Apron
By: Stefano Prezioso When: Jun 7, 2012

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Comments: Got off route on Marginal today, and am curious if anyone has any information about the climbing right of Marginal. Here's what we did.

About 20-30 feet right of the last bolt on the second pitch of Marginal is a bolted anchor. From this anchor, there is a bolt up and to the right. From that bolt, you can head straight up a very shallow (two inches), right facing dihedral for about 25 feet. Above the dihedral are two more bolts, and then trending up and to the right takes you two a belay ledge ... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Cookie Cliff
By: Stefano Prezioso When: Jun 3, 2012

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Comments: If someone has all the relevant information, adding Stigma (the 5.13 seam where the approach trail meets the wall) would be great. I just aided it today for practice and was surprised to see that it was missing from MP. I just don't know all the information to do a good job of adding the route, otherwise I would myself.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Glacier Point Apron : Monday Morning Slab, Chouin... (5.7)
By: Stefano Prezioso When: Jun 1, 2012

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Comments: At the end of the last good crack, before climbing into the left side of the Monday Morning Slab to easier terrain, there is a bush under a boulder with slings and rap rings on it, allowing you to rap back down without having to finish on less than desirable terrain. Bring your own webbing to supplement if the slings are too ratty, but as of May 31, 2012, they seemed acceptable to me. You can also throw some draws around the slings and toprope the climb as well. I think the cracks on this were e... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Glacier Point Apron : Monday Morning Slab, Right ... (5.1)
By: Stefano Prezioso When: Jun 1, 2012

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Comments: Climbed it today, and both pitches were much longer than the suggested lengths in Supertopo. We found the first to be about 190'-200' (just shy of simul-climbing to reach the bolts), and the second pitch to be about 205', requiring 5 feet or so of simul-climbing. It's easy terrain, but worth noting for those that may be trying to learn, and expecting significantly shorter pitches.

Slings to extend pieces aren't a bad idea.

The top of pitch one has two pairs of bolted anchors. The good, ASCA bo... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Rose Tower : Olive Oil (5.7)
By: Stefano Prezioso When: May 22, 2012

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Comments: Even with a 60m rope, you really should consider doing this climb in four pitches, linking pitches 2 and 3. As others have stated, this requires about 10 feet of simul-climbing up 5.easy terrain to a good stance where you can wait for your leader to build the anchor. This is much better than dealing with the semi-hanging belay. Did it today, and things went very smoothly.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : The Zoo : Monkey in the Middle (5.11b)
By: Stefano Prezioso When: Mar 9, 2012

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Comments: I believe this is 9 bolts, not 8.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : Slab City : Thrillbillies (5.10b)
By: Stefano Prezioso When: Mar 8, 2012

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Comments: Crux is the first two bolts in my opinion. Careful there.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : Slab City : Return to Balance (5.11a)
By: Stefano Prezioso When: Mar 8, 2012

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Comments: I felt the crux was the arete. Absolutely stellar climb, regardless.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Rose Tower : Olive Oil (5.7)
By: Stefano Prezioso When: Mar 8, 2010

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Comments: Approach was fairly straightforward. Once you start to enter the canyon, hug the right wall tight while scrambling upwards. The route starts on a slabby section of rock directly left of a "polished chimney." It's got some varnish in the chimney, and its pretty deep, maybe 20 feet back or so.

First belay ledge is great. Second belay was semi-hanging. Got stuck in it for about an hour and a half trying to untangle ropes. I was expecting bolted anchors (our guidebook was old), and had to imp... more >>