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Stefan heading up the Casual Route in a bike helme...


Member Since: Oct 21, 2002
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Point Rank: # 2,685
Total Points: 196
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 876 | Routes 3 | Areas 1 | Photos 20 | Page Improvements | Comments 51 | Posts 22 | Stars 571 | Ratings 208
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11a/b)
By: Stefan Griebel When: Sep 24, 2014

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Comments: Jason and I did 26m33s bridge-to-bridge on 8/16/2014. Scott and Brad just lowered that to 26m16s this evening. Wow, speed climbing this thing is so much fun! Go do it!!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : ... : Photo
By: Stefan Griebel When: Sep 20, 2014

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Comments: Killer shot! The road looks so far down there!!! Love that climb.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Second Flatiron : Freeway (5.0)
By: Stefan Griebel When: Sep 17, 2014

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Comments: Awesome, Hanson! 5m40s is a killer-fast split for the route, the FKT for sure! My best is still over 7 minutes. Thanks for posting your time - gives me some motivation to go chase it... :-)


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Better Layton Never (5.12b)
By: Stefan Griebel When: Jun 2, 2014

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Comments: That big block just hanging up there between bolts 1 and 2 is freaking scary! Does it move/flex, or was it just my psyche going nuts when I was hanging upside-down on it?!

Maybe I just need more time to figure out the beta, but even relative to other Eldo 12b's (e.g. Scary Canary, Hairstyles, Song of the Dodo), this felt much harder. Perhaps even harder than Your Mother. I honestly would not be surprised to see it get a 13-.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : North Face (5.6 R)
By: Stefan Griebel When: May 2, 2014

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Comments: I bootied a couple cams up here this morning. PM or email me if they are yours.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11a/b)
By: Stefan Griebel When: Apr 23, 2014

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Comments: I agree that combining P1/P2, and P4/P5 is the way to go. The Edge as 3 pitches is perfect, and I've never had rope drag doing it this way. Provided, of course, that you use a long sling on whatever you place in the nombay chimney.

Currently (April 2014), there is a fixed green C3 Camalot on P1, a rigid Friend in the dihedral on P4, and a yellow Metolius after the boulder problem on P5.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Second Flatiron : Freeway (5.0)
By: Stefan Griebel When: Nov 13, 2013

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Comments: Just a fun, speed scrambling update on this route for anyone who cares about this stuff - probably not many. The new FKT (fastest known time) is now just a hair under 33 minutes by Dave Mackey on Nov. 2, 2013. This was running in via Bluebell Rd. and 3rd Flatiron trail, then running out the 1st Flatiron / Chautauqua trail for a fantastic scramble loop. I was about 4 seconds back... :-)


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Fern Canyon Rocks : Rock Of Ages : Heavenly Daze (5.12c)
By: Stefan Griebel When: Aug 28, 2012

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Comments: Cool route, but why the epoxied stopper when the rest of the route is bolted?


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Fifth Flatiron : ... : Photo
By: Stefan Griebel When: Oct 24, 2010

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Comments: Ahh, the secret downclimb has now been made public.... Now no one will head up the 5th solo with a keen sense of uncertainty about finding out the secret for themselves.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Lower East Face : Endless Summer (5.12- R)
By: Stefan Griebel When: Aug 16, 2010

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Comments: P7 is rumored to have not yet seen a 2nd ascent. I headed up there to give it a try (unsuccessfully) on 8/7/2010, but certainly had an adventure. Pitch breakdown, ratings and description (by Bob Rotert) are spot on, although he underplays the severity of this climb. Scope out the wetness situation before heading up. If there is a lot of water everywhere, I would recommend choosing a different route.

P1 definitely needs a bolt for an anchor. An old pin and tiny nut are a bit scary. Backed ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Shirt Tail Peak : Gambit (5.8)
By: Stefan Griebel When: Aug 5, 2010

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Comments: The trail was built in Oct/Nov 2009 and was fully funded by ACE (www.aceeldo.org) through generous donations from climbers. Visit the website and make a donation today!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Supremacy Rock : Supremacy Crack (5.11b) : Photo
By: Stefan Griebel When: Jul 21, 2010

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Comments: Classic photo! Mic can climb the 1st Flatiron with no hands, and Supremacy Crack with no feet. He really is my hero!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Slab : s00kr33m (5.13b)
By: Stefan Griebel When: Jul 14, 2010

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Comments: I just had a good laugh on the nitpickiness over the case-sensitive funky spelling... From the description:

Note to armchair grammarians and climbing historians: the correct spelling is: s-zero-zero-k-r-capital E-capital E-m. "s00kreem": Supreme like Diana Ross; creamy like half-and-half.

Ummm, so wouldn't that be "s00krEEm". If you're gonna talk the talk, you gotta walk the walk. I'm just sayin'...

Great route though. Can't wait to get back on it and figure out the m... more >>


Location: CO : Empire : Ra : Windows On the World (5.12b)
By: Stefan Griebel When: Jun 20, 2010

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Comments: Ditto that, Tony. 3 years later & my partner and I were the only ones up there today. Perfect climbing temps.

We mistakenly did P1 of Empire of the Air, and then the rising 5.7 traverse to the base P3 - the main, awesome shield - of WOW. This does allow you to get to the golden pitch in 1 long pitch though.

P4 is definitely no longer 5.11c/d! There is no jug anywhere near the 2nd bolt, and whatever used to be a dyno to the giant hold right of the 3rd bolt is now a balancy, reachy pull on t... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Flying Flatiron : The Inside Passage (5.12c R)
By: Stefan Griebel When: Jun 18, 2010

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Comments: Dang, I loved you're original description.... It was so classic! Maybe you can repost the text as a comment?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Upper Peanuts : Advanced Rockcraft (5.12b)
By: Stefan Griebel When: May 27, 2010

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Comments: The single bolt at the crux has been replaced with a 5-piece Rawl 3/8" bolt. Thanks to ACE for the necessary hardware and tools. The pin below, bashie (!?!) above, and pin higher are all still in place.

A yellow Alien can back up the higher pin, and a pretty darn good #5 BD Micro Stopper (Swedge) protects the upper 5.10 runout.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Upper Peanuts : Gravity's Angel (5.11b)
By: Stefan Griebel When: May 27, 2010

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Comments: All of the bolts on Gravity's Angel have now been upgraded to either 5-piece Rawl 3/8" x 3" or Fixe stainless. Thanks to ACE (Action Committee for Eldorado) for the tools and hardware.


Location: CO : Battle in the Bubble Pro In...
By: Stefan Griebel When: May 4, 2010

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Comments: After the cleanup / work morning in Eldo on 5/16, ACE will be hosting a BBQ outside the visitor center for the volunteers. If you are interested in volunteering, please sign up here:

accessfund.org/adopteldo

Hope to see some climbers there!
Stefan Griebel, ACE President 2010


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : The Wisdom (5.11d R)
By: Stefan Griebel When: Apr 18, 2010

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Comments: Wow, what an incredible climb! Definitely R for the bottom half of the 1st pitch. Good nuts or a big RP back up the pin nicely.

Of the 3 pitches, P2 felt the hardest and pumpiest, even with a top rope belay! This pitch is airy and exciting and the reason this climb gets 4 instead of 3 stars.

In accordance with most other comments, P3 seemed a tough mental pitch as you commit and get your feet 4-5' above your bomber gear before you can place another very good yellow Alien size. However, cont... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Upper East Face : Kiener's Route (5.3 Easy Snow)
By: Stefan Griebel When: Sep 5, 2009

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Comments: Hi Lordsokol-

Bill Wright and I soloed Kieners car-to-car yesterday in just under 8 hours. We topped out in 3h15m, but then returned to Table Ledge to retrieve some gear I had left (ropes + rack) and rapped the Diamond.

I'd bet Kiener's has been round-tripped with a descent of the N. Face easily in 4 hours, maybe less!

Nice job shaving 30+ minute off your time just a week later!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Aerospace (5.11c)
By: Stefan Griebel When: Nov 2, 2008

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Comments: Climbed this today on a whim with zero knowledge of the route's history or the comments here. I was able to get in a decent #1 Camalot, as well as a #9 or #10 stopper before the 1st bolt. I linked the original P1 and P2 (as it sounds like most people do), and followed the original line up the arete after the hand traverse.

I think this pitch deserves a PG13 rating - I never felt like I was gonna get hurt if I fell, but some portions were definitely spicy. Very enjoyable a... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : Head Cheese (5.12d)
By: Stefan Griebel When: Apr 20, 2008

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Comments: This is a terrific route! The clipping (and climbing!) is burly near the closely spaced bolts, but the fall is into clean air. Traversing above the lip of the roof on those 4 unlikely and amazingly huge pockets will make you smile! A very long draw on the lower of the 2 close bolts could make the redpoint feel less scary.

Also, Andy Wellman and I both felt the last bolt would be much better a few feet to the left. It would still be easy to clip, you have to move left anyway for the final mo... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Glue Slippage (5.12b)
By: Stefan Griebel When: Oct 22, 2007

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Comments: This climb looks great from the ground, but compared to the many other great climbs at Cactus Cliff, I felt this one was mediocre. It starts with 25' of chossy, easy climbing. The next 3-4 bolts up the steep arcing crack feature are fantastic and pretty hard. The final crux involves (for me) pulling on a hollow-sounding Frisbee-sized flake. I predict that this flake will soon be tossed just like a Frisbee thus making the route a bit harder. Due to the chossy start, creaky flake, and non-sus... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Outer Space (5.10c R)
By: Stefan Griebel When: Sep 18, 2007

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Comments: I climbed Outer Space again on 9/15. I hadn't seen the above comment regarding the pin, so I was surprised when it wasn't there. I was able to place a good nut AND a good yellow Alien within a foot of each other where the pin used to be, so I don't think it need to be replaced. I will bring this up with the Eldo FHRC.


Location: CO : South Platte : Big Rock Candy Mountain
By: Stefan Griebel When: Sep 7, 2006

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Comments: As of 9/6/2006, the CO Hwy 67 south of Deckers is closed, so the eastern approach is not possible if you are driving in from the north.

For the western approach, a mountain bike will save you an hour or so total on the approach/de-approach, since the old road is closed to motor vehicles. I measured the parking area to be exactly 3.6 miles past the Goose Creek CG. The closed road is in good shape, and we were able to ride it both directions with climbing packs. It was about 3 miles, and took ... more >>


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