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Location: UT : Saint George : Woodbury Road Crags : The Solstice : Behind The Beige Vinyl Curt... (5.10a)
By: Stan Pitcher When: Nov 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Correct on count 14 bolts plus anchors although you can reach the last bolt from the anchors. Lowering on our 60m made it just barely.
The 10b (Vampires) two to the left and the 10c in between are also great routes. Both full 100 footers and pretty sustained.
The two 3 star 10a's an the far left are not that great - easy climbs with short cruxes.
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Location: UT : Saint George : The Soul Asylum : The Watchtower : After Life (5.10a)
By: Stan Pitcher When: Nov 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Again in my opinion, the ratings are wrong and this route is easier than the 9 to the right.
There is also a new route, very nice (and sharp) that shares the first three bolts (long sling on 3rd) and then goes left. Similar grade.
Also there are two new 9ish routes to the right of the other 9.
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Location: UT : Saint George : The Soul Asylum : The Watchtower : Blood Drive (5.10c)
By: Stan Pitcher When: Nov 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The 10a that goes left after bolt 4 is fun but sharp. Great position!
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Location: UT : Saint George : The Soul Asylum : The Watchtower : Petrified (5.10c)
By: Stan Pitcher When: Nov 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun, easy stemming leads to harder climbing above...
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Location: UT : Saint George : The Soul Asylum : The Watchtower : Orion (5.10b)
By: Stan Pitcher When: Nov 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is the harder of the two routes out of the shady alcove. Good climbing but would be better route if it went straight up instead of traversing left after bolt 5!
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Location: UT : Saint George : Prophesy Wall : The Visionaries (5.10c)
By: Stan Pitcher When: Nov 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: We did a couple of newer climbs to the right of Visionairies starting from a ledge a pitch up. The left one we did went through a roof and we stopped at the treed ledge. The one to the right of that traversed left onto an arete and then a thin face above an anchor.
Anybody now anything about these? Both were enjoyable.
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Location: UT : Saint George : Prophesy Wall : The Roofs of Jericho (5.10c)
By: Stan Pitcher When: Nov 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for the history - good to know I've not completely lost my mind? Hadn't been there in years and just climbed it last weekend. Volunteered for the 'crux' pitch because I thought I remembered the first roof being much easier. Instead it was much harder - 10d or maybe a bit harder?
Any contact info for the handle vandals? :) Hope they learned something that day!
Also there is a very nice single pitch line (10ish) to the left of the first pitch. Can't miss the shiny hangers - wish the... more >>
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Red Arch Mountain : Bits and Pieces (5.11a/b)
By: Stan Pitcher When: Oct 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Careful on the rap from P5 to P3 - small knot recommended! We had to pull from the bolt protecting the traverse on P3. Fun route with the exception of "pitch" 2. Hard cruxes!
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Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : The Pipe Dream : Buddha's Belly (5.10a)
By: Stan Pitcher When: Sep 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb has a second pitch that takes you too the ridge top where there's a nice view!
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Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : Haji Rock : Exit Wound (5.9+)
By: Stan Pitcher When: Sep 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yea, really fun and scenic route! Thanks FAers for all the hard work! Be carefull topping out as there is lots of loose on top. Also the firt rap has a somewhat hard pull so make it easier by pulling most of the rope from the top after the first goes down.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Kermits Wall and Perhaps Ar... : Paranoia Streak (5.10c R)
By: Stan Pitcher When: Sep 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Consider a helmet on this one. A friend split his in half falling off the crux! Great route though - let me know if you need a belay on it :)
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Kermits Wall and Perhaps Ar... : Gordon's Hangover (5.9+)
By: Stan Pitcher When: Sep 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The long one pitch version is great but the climbing getting to the flake on the two pitch version is very good too. Plus the first pitch of Perhaps is a great lead for a beginning trad leader.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Thumb Area : Indecent Exposure Variation (5.7)
By: Stan Pitcher When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Our favorite way to get to lunch ledge was always to cut right at the appropriate spot and belay at the start of the S-cracks 5.8 groove pitch. Its a great crack pitch that although a bit wide does not require any big gear. Up to a 3 or 3.5 camalot should be sufficient.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : Summit Wall : Triple Overhangs (5.10a)
By: Stan Pitcher When: Aug 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just did this so can provide some beta as to how to pitch out the Vertical Overhangs variation. P1 follows the right-facing corner to a slung block (5.7 25 m). P2 traverse right into crack with pin and follow the 'vertical smile crack' to a hanging belay at a pin just below a roof. You can get a bomber 2 camalot in this roof for the belay (5.8+ 50 m). Follow the thin but sew-able with small nuts corner to a roof, exit to the right, get some gear before a tricky move and then clip the 2 bol... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coffin Buttress : Coffin Roof (5.12)
By: Stan Pitcher When: Jun 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: hmmm, and he just told me he was outa shape - yea right :)
Was up there last night and there is a pretty purple flower to greet you as you clear the roof - not saying I saw it up close though...
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress : Crescent Crack Direct Varia... (5.9)
By: Stan Pitcher When: Jun 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely do the slab finish and make sure you have enough time for a lap on the Coffin since you rap right to it! 3 classic pitches offering just about everything. A 1 camalot might come in handy for the final chimney.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : North and West Faces : Nuthin' Tuff (5.8)
By: Stan Pitcher When: Oct 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I wonder if this is Tuff Enough? The original Ruckman guide says it is 25 left of Guilt Trip. And the crack that I always thought was tuff enough is at most only about 10 feet left? Alwasy seemed way harder than 5.8 too?
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Egg : Lowe Blow (5.9+)
By: Stan Pitcher When: Oct 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agree on the grunt and not needing anything bigger than 3 cam - how often do you find an OW that doesn't require huge cams?
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Glass Ocean and Environs : Glass Ocean (5.8)
By: Stan Pitcher When: Oct 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Surprised no comments about the crux? - passing the first bolt and clipping the second. Pretty difficult for 5.8 and the hangar is looking pretty worked. Be careful is 5.8 is your limit. Great climb though!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Glass Ocean and Environs : Tsunami (5.10b)
By: Stan Pitcher When: Oct 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'd recommend starting on Glass Ocean and angling left from the ledge after the first two bolts on it.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Glass Ocean and Environs : Northwest Passage (5.10c)
By: Stan Pitcher When: Oct 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: One pitch?!?! I think it would be pretty difficult to do the balancy moves at the top with all that rope weight. I'd recommend doing it in two. Tsunami is a greate way to get to the belay ledge. I think a .75, 1, & 2 camalot is sufficient for the crack and a couple of long runners there will help too.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Division Wall : Les is More (5.10a)
By: Stan Pitcher When: Sep 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Don't forget to jam and stem at the top else its a bit harder!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Division Wall : Black Hole (5.10a)
By: Stan Pitcher When: Sep 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Getting greasier, but still a good route. The bolts are a bit spaced towards the top.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Division Wall : Teenagers in Heat (5.10b)
By: Stan Pitcher When: Sep 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I like this route a lot. The thin, balancy crux at the top is exciting and a world apart from the pumpy start. Easily TRed from the 9.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Division Wall : Pocket Change (5.11a)
By: Stan Pitcher When: Sep 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: It does have a very specific sequence and its very fun once you figure it out! :)
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