Contributed Comments |
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : The Narrows : Lichen Wall : Large Corner Girdle (5.6 R)
By: Stan Jones When: Dec 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Added a rap station at the top of pitch 3. If you climb the crawl ramp up and right from the big ledge (labeled class 4 in "Oklahoma Select") then climb the left-hand wide crack from the next big ledge, the new rap station is at the top around a boulder. A rap with a 50m rope will get you close to the lower rap station mentioned in other comments.
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Location: OK : Quartz Mountain : Atlantic : Field Direct (5.7 X)
By: Stan Jones When: Nov 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Second pitch is the same as P2 Macho Man.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Moab Rim Area : Looking Glass Rock : Looking Glass Regular Route (5.5 PG13)
By: Stan Jones When: Jun 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: When I pulled the ropes, the ends of the second 60m met about 30 feet above my head, so the rap must be about 130 feet.
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : The Narrows : Lichen Wall : Large Corner Girdle (5.6 R)
By: Stan Jones When: May 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Another good place for P1 belay is about 25 ft above the first turn. That keeps you from having huge rope drag at the crux. You can deal with the rope drag on the easier climbing above the second turn.
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : The Narrows : Lichen Wall : Large Corner Girdle (5.6 R)
By: Stan Jones When: Apr 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: We added some static cord to the in-place rap ring on the lower ledge that you can scramble down to (from P2). Just bring a piece of cord or webbing to back this up and it's a short rap.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art
By: Stan Jones When: Dec 3, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: For posterity - Ancient Art is the centerpiece of a CitiBank commercial that has been airing in Nov-Dec 2011.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : Sayers' Wall : The Mantle of the Leprechau... (5.10a/b PG13)
By: Stan Jones When: Jul 29, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are 6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : The Narrows : Leaning Tower : Arrowsmith (5.8)
By: Stan Jones When: May 23, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you traverse right after the P1 belay and go up the face/shallow gully, the climbing is easy with great exposure.
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Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Main Dome : Smorgasbord Wall : Strawberry Jam (5.3)
By: Stan Jones When: Dec 4, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you traverse to the Texas Flakes anchors, you'll need several directionals to keep the rope out of the cacti.
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Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Main Dome : Cheap Wine Wall : Hartford (5.8)
By: Stan Jones When: Dec 4, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: After you pull the overlap, look left for the next two Hartford bolts. The Dome Driver bolt is more obvious, but it's to the right.
Hartford shares the P2 Anchor with Boston.
2 Ropes for P2 Rap (approx. 130 ft). 1 60m rope for P1 Rap.
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Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Main Dome : Cheap Wine Wall : Boston (5.7)
By: Stan Jones When: Nov 1, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is a perfect pink tricam placement in the first pocket on the face below the overlap.
The most obvious hold on the right side of the notch cracked when I pulled on it and seems loose. Use caution.
When we pulled the rope from the P2 anchor, it stuck at the top of the flake and required a reclimb/down-climb. This can be avoided by traversing to the Kracken anchors before rapping or rapping to Hartford P1.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : West Face : Cowboy Boot Crack (5.6)
By: Stan Jones When: Jul 8, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Take a BD #3 to put behind the Boot flake before the traverse to the pin. The pin is at the bottom of the crack across from the upper part of the flake. Otherwise all medium to small stuff. A 60m rope will easily reach either the shelf or the ground to the west from the anchors for a rappel, contrary to the route description.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Fall River Road (US 34 West... : McGregor Slab : Left Standard (5.3)
By: Stan Jones When: Jul 8, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: We followed the Rossiter topo and used the belay stations he describes for Left Standard, and it seems to be a different route than the one described here. However, we disagree with some of Rossiter's ratings. Here are the rope lengths and ratings we saw:
P1 - 55m 5.6
P2 - 50m 5.3
P3 - 60m 5.6 crack and a lot of 5.4 runout
P4 - 55m 4th class to 5.0
P5 - 20m a single 5.5 move at the short headwall
Note: there was a very loose rock of more than 100 lbs at the 2nd belay station tetering on the br... more >>
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : The Narrows : Leaning Tower : Noname (5.6)
By: Stan Jones When: Jun 1, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Expect a slight downclimb after passing the arete in the middle.
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : The Narrows : Zoo Wall : The Dihedral (5.6)
By: Stan Jones When: Jun 1, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Felt like 5.7 to me. Similar difficulty to Yellow Corner, and harder than the other 5.6's in the Narrows due to being off-width and slick.
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : The Narrows : Zoo Wall : Yellow Corner (5.5)
By: Stan Jones When: Apr 26, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: To me, getting off the ground was tricky but not hard. The cruxes were the offwidth just below the ledge in the middle of the route and the slightly overhanging move a bit above the ledge. I also agree with the 5.7 rating.
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Location: OK : Quartz Mountain : South America : South Pacific (5.7)
By: Stan Jones When: Mar 8, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I recommend putting a #4 Camalot or a Large Supercam under the overlap at the top of the beginning slab. Then you can more comfortably fiddle with a nut in the crack above the inverted V in the first overlap. Definitely a mini-crux stepping up on that first overlap.
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Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Main Dome : Cheap Wine Wall : Boston (5.7)
By: Stan Jones When: Jan 4, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The line of bolts to the right of the Boston notch in the overlap on P1 is a route called "The Kracken" that shares the P1 anchors. The bolts on the face above the P1 anchors to the left of the Boston flake is the P2 continuation of "The Kracken". Kracken ends up at anchors between Dome Driver and Boston.
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Charon's Gardens : Elk Slabs : The (Other) Dihedral (5.6)
By: Stan Jones When: Nov 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you climb this on the original line, which is staying on the dihedral and not traversing right into the chimney, you'll have great pro the whole way. Big cams up high (#3 to #5).
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Charon's Gardens : Elk Slabs : Great Expectations (5.5)
By: Stan Jones When: Nov 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this on a 50m rope and just barely had enough to reach the P1 belay station. The rap off P1 is about 150 ft, so two 50's are fine. If you rap off P2, don't even consider trying to reach the middle belay station on the Water Streak wall with a single 60m - you'll come up about 10 ft short.
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Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Main Dome : Devil's Slide : Harder Than it Looks (5.6)
By: Stan Jones When: Nov 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are no bolts at the top of P3. See the description of Easier Than It Looks - it shares P2 and P3 with HTIL.
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Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Main Dome : News Wall : Pro Sweat (5.9)
By: Stan Jones When: Nov 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Actually the first bolt is above the overlap, but it can be reached from a stance below the overlap (unless you're really short).
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Location: TX : Mineral Wells State Park : Middle Tower
By: Stan Jones When: Sep 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I prefer to access this tower via the 5.5 climb on the Lake end of the canyon between the two towers. It's only about 20 feet before you're on a ledge with an easy scramble. And no depending on a tree!
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Mount Scott : Upper Mount Scott : Yee Haw (5.6)
By: Stan Jones When: Sep 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crack widens, so take large gear (at least #3 Camalot). Lots of good stances make it a good novice leader climb.
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : The Narrows : Zoo Wall : The Unfinished Piece (5.6)
By: Stan Jones When: Apr 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The slabby corner 10' to the left is really hard to protect, so I elected to go up the diagonal hand crack slightly left (as Caleb discusses). I think that a way to protect the climb further left would be to stick a medium to large piece in the hand crack before traversing.
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