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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Kor's Flake (5.7)
By: Stacy Bender When: Jul 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: My wife and I climbed Kor’s Flake over the weekend. My good shoes were in the shop getting a resole, so I wore a backup pair that did not have the Five Ten Stealth rubber I’m used to. Luckily, I had placed a #6 Wild Country at the start of the crux off-width chimney, because as I worked up outside of the off-width, six feet up from the WC, one foot slipped and I came off. We were using a new Edelweiss 9.6 mm rope, which is still pretty slick. So, with a little slack in the rope, r... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : Outer Gates : Fin Du Monde (5.10a)
By: Stacy Bender When: Jun 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was right up to the crux bulge when the light came on and I realized I was not on Monastic Groove. Moving through the crux was really cool, with great crystals on what felt like vertical wall.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Banana Peels (5.8)
By: Stacy Bender When: Jun 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did the 1st pitch of this today with my wife, thinking, with my head up my butt, that I was on the 1st pitch of Kor's Flake. We bailed at the rap slings thinking that we had seriously under-estimated the route. Once we got down, I took another look my printed copy of the route and saw my mistake. As chimneys go, I actually liked it, but it was pumpy, and now we have to hump back up there again to do Kor's Flake.
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Location: CO : Cañon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Fish Wall : Sand Dollar (5.10b)
By: Stacy Bender When: Sep 17, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not real sustained, but the bulge/roof is great with better than expected holds - the crux is the last reach and pull up and over.
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Location: CO : National Park Passes On The...
By: Stacy Bender When: Dec 12, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: With the cost of the 7-day pass for Rocky Mountain National Park, one sigle park, running $20 now, I'll still saves a few hundred a year.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Pine Cone Dome : Squid Face aka Pine Away (5.7+)
By: Stacy Bender When: Jul 11, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I will agree that the upper dihedral is definitely an 8+, but I thought the real difficulty came with finding and placing reliable pro while holding a stem that had my right calf screaming. Unfortunately, the ratings don't take that into account.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Combat Rock : No More War (5.10a)
By: Stacy Bender When: Nov 8, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Note: Read the route description better than I did. I hadn't been on granite for a long time and knew I was going to struggle on this, but after aiding to the 2nd bolt, and taking two ugly falls trying to get to the third, I thought this was the biggest sandbag in the world. I realized later that I had incorrectly jumped on the 2nd pitch of Blood For Oil (5.12a). Sometimes the obvious just doesn't sink in right away.
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : South and East Faces : Soler (5.9-)
By: Stacy Bender When: Aug 15, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pitch 2 is what makes this such a classic. The hand crack you follow up pitch one narrows to fingers and finally, about 20 feet or so from the top of the pitch, to barely accepting of your smallest pro. At this point, you finish with stemming and whatever you can find to grab in the dihedral. You're either going to find out how well you placed that last ballnut, or you're going to top out feeling really good.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : The Fin : Edge of Time (5.9)
By: Stacy Bender When: Jun 28, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, the sharp end would have piqued my interest: for the 5 foot crux at the first bolt.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : The Fin : Edge of Time (5.9)
By: Stacy Bender When: Jun 27, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: I found this climb a little disappointing. It felt like an easy 5.7 with only 5 feet of 5.9+ or 5.10A right at the first bolt. It looks great, but I walked away feeling somewhat empty after climbing it. I planned on trying it on toprope and if it went ok, I was going to lead it; however, I didn't really feel like it was worth a 2nd ascent. Once you pass the 1st bolt, it's over.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Breakfast in Bed (5.8)
By: Stacy Bender When: Jun 24, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Where else but Eldorado Canyon would you find 50 feet or more of back-leaning trad 5.8 with a low ground-fall-potential crux? The rating is fair, but you wouldn't guess it looking up on the sharp end. I found Ballnuts a valuable piece of gear for a thin crack that shows up regularly; they set quickly, and when you're getting pumped, due to over-gripping caused by anxiety, that means a lot.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches : Owl Rock : Owl Rock (west crack) (5.8+)
By: Stacy Bender When: Mar 21, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great climb for the ham who likes to show-off for the tourists. Seriously though, this is a good mellow 5.8, hands to fist crack, with excelent protection.
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