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Location: NV : Red Rock : Windy Canyon : Windy Peak : Windy Corner (5.7)
By: sqwirll When: Nov 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Probably not the best route for a 5.7 leader. It's a little runout in some places.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Magic Mountain : Community Pillar (5.9)
By: sqwirll When: Nov 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That 5.9 pitch is a must do. I almost whipped off of it when a foot broke off and I was left swinging on a hand jam. Good times.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : Ginger Cracks (5.9)
By: sqwirll When: Oct 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Aimee,
We climbed this last Saturday. The route was out of the sun by 9:30 or so. I can't imagine that it would get much sun come December.
Also, I didn't think the rock quality on pitch 5 was bad at all.
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Location: WA : North Cascades : Washington Pass : Concord Tower : North Face (5.6)
By: sqwirll When: Sep 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've descended using a single 50m rope before. It's tight, but it works. From the summit, rap 25' down to the lower of two trees at the notch. Then a full 25m rap to an anchor down the gully and skiers left. The next rap gets you to the terrace and a final rap puts you at the base.
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Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Upper Town Wall : Lovin' Arms (5.10c A0) : Photo
By: sqwirll When: Aug 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very true. I don't want to think what it would look like if it didn't get climbed though.
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Location: WA : North Cascades : Washington Pass : South Early Winters Spire : South Arete (5.5)
By: sqwirll When: Jul 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is the standard descent route off the peak. Most of this route is 3rd class with a couple steps of 5th. A good beginner climb.
Descend the route by rappeling approximately 3 times with a 60 m.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : The Misunderstanding (5.9) : Photo
By: sqwirll When: Jul 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That looks awesome.
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Location: WA : North Cascades : Washington Pass : Lexington Tower : East Face (5.9+)
By: sqwirll When: Jul 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The rock quality on the upper couple of pitches isn't nearly as good (grainy), but it certainly doesn't detract from the rest of the route.
Also, a huge avalanche wiped out a section of trail up there on the Blue Lake side, but enough people have been making there way through that it should be fairly obvious.
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Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Mid Wall : Robin's Ramp (5.7)
By: sqwirll When: Jun 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This thing catches a lot of debris, so if you're climbing it in the spring bring something to clean it off with.
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Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Mid Wall : Waiting for the Sun (5.9)
By: sqwirll When: Jun 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route stays wet for quite some time. There is a moss "carpet" on the slab at the base, so if you commit to climbing above Robin's Ramp and it's wet, the downclimb becomes non-trivial. I had to leave some cord and a biner to get down when I checked it out this spring.
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Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Upper Wall Approach Trail : The Blues Cliff : Number 9 (5.10a)
By: sqwirll When: Jun 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: These are great climbs and very unique for Index. The bulge at the bottom feels hard/awkward for 10a.
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Location: Doug Foust : RRR : Photo
By: sqwirll When: Jun 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: FMA
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Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Lookout Point : Peanuts To Serve You (5.9)
By: sqwirll When: Jun 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route was recently cleaned and the anchor replaced.
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Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Upper Wall Approach Trail : Private Idaho
By: sqwirll When: Jun 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The directions listed are based upon parking at the Bush House. Also, this area really isn't on the UTW trail.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Sandy Corridor : Chrysler Crack (5.9) : Photo
By: sqwirll When: May 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I said it was a nice pic. What's wrong with a little constructive criticism?
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Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Upper Wall Approach Trail : Shady Lane : Free Range Chook (5.10b) : Photo
By: sqwirll When: May 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Naw, that's my friend Dave.
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Location: WA : North Cascades : Washington Pass : South Early Winters Spire : SW Rib (5.8)
By: sqwirll When: Apr 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'd recommend climbing into the gully on the right of the rabbit ears. It's fairly easy and avoids the rappel. The rappel is kind of scary since I'm not quite sure what is holding the rabbit ears on.
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Location: WA : North Cascades : Washington Pass : Silver Star and connected s... : Chianti Spire : ... : Photo
By: sqwirll When: Apr 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I like the shadow on the wall.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Black Dagger (5.7+ PG13)
By: sqwirll When: Apr 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Brought a #6 Camalot C4 for the 3rd pitch. Took the bite off of the wide section.
Also, we skipped the slabs and hiked up the trail along the base of the Rainbow Wall. You only have to traverse in around 50 yds off of this trail to get to the base. It took us 1hr15m from Oak Creek to the base at a comfortable pace.
It should also be noted that there is several hundred feet of class 3/4 above the last pitch.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Black Dagger (5.7+ PG13) : Photo
By: sqwirll When: Apr 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That looks brutal. We belayed like Doug suggested and it worked smooth. You can see the crack in the bottom left that I used for my anchor. There's a small ledge below the crack. The crack takes 2-3" gear.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Pauligk Pillar (5.7+)
By: sqwirll When: Apr 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Second pitch is actually only 115'. We rapped off the second with a 70m and barely reached the anchors. Then did a double rope rap from second anchor. You could get off with only a 70m if you're willing to trust the ratty nest of slings at 100' on the 1st pitch.
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Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Rattletale Wall : Rattletale (5.10a/b)
By: sqwirll When: Feb 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Someone added belay stations at the top of pitches 1 & 2.
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Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Lower Wall : Winkie Dinkie Cliff : Gorilla My Dreams (5.10a)
By: sqwirll When: Oct 31, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely put gear in down low if it's wet. Someone decked from the 1st bolt recently and had to get helicoptered out of there.
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Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Lower Wall : The Country : GM Route (5.9)
By: sqwirll When: Oct 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: If the right hand start is wet, I'd suggest scrambling around from the left. We climbed the right hand side and the ledge was wet, leave covered, and downright scary for both the leader and follower.
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Location: WA : North Cascades : Washington Pass
By: sqwirll When: Oct 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: We did a fun linkup of all 5 spires this summer. We climbed the Beckey route on Liberty, North face of Concord, North Face of Lexington, NW Corner of NEWS, and SW Rib of SEWS. We ended up simulclimbing Liberty Bell, Concord, Lexington, and most of SEWS. It took us approximately 15 hours car to car at a casual pace. Two ropes are beneficial for the rappels off of Concord and Lexington, otherwise you'd have to leave gear. A fun way to get 20+ pitches of moderate climbing in a day.
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