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Member Since: Jan 22, 2007
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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splitclimber
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Total Points: 67
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Last 30 Days: 2
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 264 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 67 | Posts 174 | Stars 12 | Ratings 11
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Sonoma Coast State Park : Goat Rock : ... : German Chocolate Cake (5.8)
By: splitclimber When: Feb 3, 2016

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Comments: I remember this top rope being harder than 5.8.

Cool name but def. not a FA. ;)


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Sonoma Coast State Park : Goat Rock : ... : Bulge Boulder
By: splitclimber When: Feb 3, 2016

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Comments: looks like this is actually on Ram Rock.

Never heard of it referred to as bulge boulder before.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : The Bubble : "Left Edge" (5.10d R)
By: splitclimber When: Oct 20, 2015

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Comments: I cleaned the gravel/dirt off the top of this climb and did a good cleaning on the face to revive this top rope route. You need long slings to set a top rope and to avoid the rope from rubbing on the top out.

Deceivingly fun but hard 5.10 at the top. We did use the arĂȘte but tried not to wander over onto the bubble face/slab or whatever it is now named. ;)

The awful looking chimney/offwidth on the left may get scrubbed at some point to milk some more climbs out of the bubble.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena
By: splitclimber When: Oct 20, 2015

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Comments: Volunteers with BACC and RIM club did trail improvements and maintenance on the trail to the quarry and the climber's trail next to it that goes up to the fire road on October 17. We also blocked the shortcuts on the main hikers trail with all of the switchbacks.

After taking the climbers trail from near the parking lot to the "book" monument, follow the well defined trail to the right of the quarry up to the fire road. Please stay on this newly improved trail to avoid further braiding of tra... more >>


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : Silverado Mine
By: splitclimber When: Oct 20, 2015

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Comments: Volunteers with BACC and RIM club did trail improvements and maintenance on the trail to the quarry and the climber's trail next to it that goes up to the fire road on October 17.

To get to the quarry from the "book" monument, take the well defined trail that does a big switchback right to left and avoids going straight up the rocky gully. It is also better to access the top rope chains by continuing up the steep improved trail to the top then wrap around (see Floyd's comments).


Location: CA : High Sierra : Outlying Areas : Flatiron Butte (Shangri La)
By: splitclimber When: Sep 28, 2015

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Comments: Nice addition Vitaliy.

I'll add that the approach is more like 8 miles and there is a 4th known route up the northwest face to the "notch" at 5.8. :)


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Horseshoe Lake Area : Sunshine Wall : Little Gem (5.8)
By: splitclimber When: Sep 18, 2015

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Comments: great climb but I felt the bolts were a little out of place, mostly a weird runout at the end where it still felt sustained.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Horseshoe Lake Area : Sunshine Wall : New Beginnings (5.6)
By: splitclimber When: Sep 18, 2015

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Comments: I'd agree, the move at the bolt is awkward or weird or hard to figure out. 5.7


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Shore : Armstrong Pass : Crack to Knobs (5.6)
By: splitclimber When: Sep 15, 2015

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Comments: obvious line but questionable rock. it was scary and I broke a knob off weighting it with my foot. I fell and the draw on the cam hooked a gear loop and caught my fall. YIKES.

Walk off the back.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Shore : Armstrong Pass
By: splitclimber When: Sep 15, 2015

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Comments: cool location but not the best rock. it is 1 mile up to Armstrong pass from the parking area, then probably another 0.75 miles to the crags.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : West Shore : Eagle Creek Canyon : Eagle Lake Buttress
By: splitclimber When: Sep 15, 2015

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Comments: give yourself 2 hours for the approach. The rocky/brushy gully is a much better approach than the slabs.

The walk off is easy. downclimb past the small pillar to the notch, climb up a 8 foot rock flake to a sloped top out. It is easy and there is no need to rap the mountaineer's route.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : West Shore : Eagle Creek Canyon : Eagle Lake Buttress : Eagle Route (5.5)
By: splitclimber When: Sep 15, 2015

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Comments: Great route but I think it is much harder than 5.5. A steep double crack spot before the V and getting up into the flared chimney sure felt all of 5.7 to me.

We climbed the nice crack/flake to the right of the mentioned groove which was really good. We did it in 3 pitches to the ridge mostly because I sewed up the first pitch to below the V and didn't have enough gear to keep going.

I liked this much more than the ridge route.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : DAFF Area : Daff Dome West Face : El Condor (5.7 R)
By: splitclimber When: Sep 1, 2015

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Comments: Good route. It goes quick. Some good runouts on great knobs. don't need a 3 unless you use it to weight the slung knob. ;)


Location: CA : Northeast California : The Lost Sierra
By: splitclimber When: Jul 21, 2015

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Comments: confusing to have a sierra nevada range climbing area under Shasta Cascade. I guess it is lost. ;)


Location: CA : Northeast California : Bald Rock : Bald Rock Picnic Area
By: splitclimber When: Jul 21, 2015

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Comments: This area should be included with the Bald Rock Dome section instead of Lost Sierra IMO.

There are several really fun arĂȘte problems on these boulders and a worthwhile location to boulder.

also, does anyone know the rating of the 30 foot overhanging splitter crack near the summit area?


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Sugarloaf Ridge : Hide Out Boulder : Hide (V3)
By: splitclimber When: Jul 16, 2015

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Comments: Hey Chris, hope to see you out there sometime.

To do Hide correctly you need to keep hands only on the horizontal crack/rail all the way over to bunchgrass. FA - Chris Summit


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Tradfest (5.8)
By: splitclimber When: Jul 6, 2015

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Comments: Haha. What a great outing. Good climbing throughout esp. old tradition above war party.

We did far side chimney - initiation rite - old tradition - hummingbird spire - koka. I'm going big on the star rating.

We skipped on the other two short climbs mentioned to keep a pretty consistent upward movement throughout the linkup.

Clipped the first bolt you encounter on Koka but otherwise all gear. you could even skip some of the bolted anchors and built your own anchor on some of these.

Ch... more >>


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Hummingbird Spire, N. Face (5.7)
By: splitclimber When: Jul 6, 2015

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Comments: overhanging 5.7 - short but really fun. I trundled some loose rock on top so the top out is much safer.


Location: CA : Northeast California : Lassen National Park : Eagle Peak : The Cat Walk aka The Cat Wa... : Unknown (5.8+)
By: splitclimber When: Jun 12, 2015

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Comments: heady climb for a warmup, but really varied and fun and pretty safe. the direct start with the bolt looked to be a move or two of 5.10 before the bolt. the standard left start works but is less direct.


Location: CA : Northeast California : Lassen National Park : The Belly Button aka Vulcan... : Left of the Regular Route : The Regular Route (5.8+)
By: splitclimber When: Jun 12, 2015

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Comments: I remember there being good gear, but I started off to the far right to get to gear placements early. Took the right variation on the second pitch which is exciting, then went directly over to the three crack/knob climbs up and right.


Location: CA : Northeast California : Lassen National Park : The Belly Button aka Vulcan... : Left of the Regular Route : Variation B (5.9+ R)
By: splitclimber When: Jun 12, 2015

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Comments: a fun TR - keep the helmets on. I popped a big softball sized knob at the top of this climb with my foot and nearly took out my belayer.


Location: CA : Northeast California : Lassen National Park : The Belly Button aka Vulcan...
By: splitclimber When: Jun 12, 2015

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Comments: such a cool crag. I never had the desire to go with the old topos. The new guide makes you stoked to go.

The last bit of the hike up to the crag needs carins as there are several ways to get there, some with more impact than others. We tried our best to stay off the loose stuff. With more traffic this last section could develop erosion issues.

Great featured rock, mostly solid, but don't let your guard down.

Thanks for adding all these north state climbs, Muscrat.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Uptown Rock : Uptown Rock - Upper Tier
By: splitclimber When: Apr 16, 2015

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Comments: the top of the two second pitches has great climbing with good gear and clean rock.

We had a 70m but it sure seemed like you could rap from the top down to the first anchor and then close enough to the ground with a 60.

Still need to climb the 5.9, but all of the other climbs were fun, well bolted and cleaned up.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Uptown Rock : ... : "Alan Bartlett Wasn't Here" (5.10a)
By: splitclimber When: Apr 16, 2015

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Comments: Nice work Tony.

My wife and I were there the first day Tony was there. We also pulled off a rock on blue collar where there is the small jagged corner.

I thought all the routes here were good, even sinner and saints which I toproped and it climbed cleaner and easier than it looks from the ground.

Thanks to everybody establishing and equipping routes out there. Being way up canyon is very scenic.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : The Nut Tree Boulders
By: splitclimber When: Jan 26, 2015

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Comments: nice dry conditions on Saturday with quite a few climbers out at the hillcrest/saddle area.

I just have to post this - Please don't go up to neighbor's houses and ask if you can use their toilet because you really have to go. I actually watched this happen as I was packing up at the car.

One home owner was pretty amazed that some kid would ask that when he could drive 5 minutes to the gas station if he is feeling a blow out coming. Sheesh. Let's be respectful to the home owners in this area... more >>


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