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Member Since: Jan 22, 2007
Last Visit: 9 hours ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 335 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 83 | Posts 199 | Stars 27 | Ratings 26
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : High Sierra : 00 - Hoover Wilderness : Flatiron Butte (Shangri La)
By: splitclimber When: May 31, 2016

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Comments: Secor's guide doesn't extend this far north. ;)

the climb/FA? I did up the northwest face is named

Little Walker's Big Reveal, III, 5-6p, 5.8.

It starts left of a low angle blocky buttress up and left through a cool white dike, through some 3rd class then up an obvious "40-50 foot wide ramp" feature, right of the black dot that goes mostly straight up to the notch left of the summit. A short pitch to the false summit, then scramble to the true summit.

I think most would want to f... more >>


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena
By: splitclimber When: Feb 23, 2016

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Comments: Jim Thornburg updated his Bay Area Rocks guidebook and included Black Tower, next to Kimball Crag, which was included in the previous version.

However, the Black Tower climbs are listed in reverse order in the guidebook. The correct order from left to right is:

south face
Corkscrew - 5.9+

Barrel Roll - 5.10a/b

east face
5.8

Wingman - 5.8

you can use a 60 meter rope on the two 5.8's, but you better tie a knot in the ends when rapping. I really recommend belaying from above when belaying... more >>


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Sonoma Coast State Park : Goat Rock : Sunset Boulders
By: splitclimber When: Feb 22, 2016

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Comments: Please tread lightly, avoid trampling vegetation and leave no trace at these beautiful boulders. If coming in large groups, please carpool and consider other climbers experience here. thx.


Location: CA : Northeast California : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Main Wall Cave Routes
By: splitclimber When: Feb 19, 2016

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Comments: good to know and good idea. Thanks Dan.


Location: CA : Northeast California : Lassen National Park : Eagle Peak aka The Rock Ban... : Peapod and Right : Dog Days (5.4)
By: splitclimber When: Feb 18, 2016

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Comments: OK climb but a little dirty.


Location: CA : Northeast California : Lassen National Park : The Belly Button aka Vulcan... : First and Second Terrace : Sweet Crack Left (5.7)
By: splitclimber When: Feb 18, 2016

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Comments: really run. shuteye ridge sent some beautiful and fun chickenheads to the plug.


Location: CA : Northeast California : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Main Wall Cave Routes
By: splitclimber When: Feb 18, 2016

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Comments: What's up with the anchor bolts and chain on the boulder at the base between the cave routes and the main wall? A local thought it was for rope soloing but it is in a weird location. Did that boulder fall off the wall?


Location: CA : Northeast California : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Wonderland : Gryphon's Groove (5.6)
By: splitclimber When: Feb 18, 2016

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Comments: OK climb. looks like potential for another route to the right from the pit.


Location: CA : Northeast California : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Outer Wall : The Nose (5.8)
By: splitclimber When: Feb 18, 2016

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Comments: fun juggy climb. The rattling jug isn't going anywhere. I moved over to the right side of the arête just above the fourth bolt, not like the topo photo. The inside face felt 10a/b and the chimney is really fun on TR.


Location: CA : Northeast California : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Outer Wall : Cheeky Bastard (5.7)
By: splitclimber When: Feb 18, 2016

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Comments: hard finish to the new? anchor location but a great climb that could probably be lead on gear. I think I missed another right hand mono for a better finish. I never grab anchor chains, but did on this one. :)

The line left of the bolt line was great too.


Location: CA : Northeast California : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Opposite Main Wall : Chopper Copper (5.8)
By: splitclimber When: Feb 18, 2016

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Comments: Heady with two small pinches and not much for feet at the crux. I went out to the arête for one move, then back on the face. Runout but cool finish with the underclings.


Location: CA : Northeast California : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Opposite Main Wall : Wintu Wall (5.4)
By: splitclimber When: Feb 18, 2016

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Comments: pretty darn easy except for the finish, which is 5.5 or 5.6. Harder than Gateway Drug for sure.

A fun TR variation if you avoid the flake and climb right of the bolt line. 10a or so.


Location: CA : Northeast California : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Opposite Main Wall : Terrys Angels (5.7)
By: splitclimber When: Feb 18, 2016

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Comments: hard to call this a 5.8, but close. Easier but more thought provoking than The Nose.


Location: CA : Northeast California : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Opposite Main Wall : Baby Food (5.7)
By: splitclimber When: Feb 18, 2016

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Comments: I think 5.7 is about right both getting to the first high bolt and the finish.


Location: CA : Northeast California : Burney Limestone (aka The S...
By: splitclimber When: Feb 18, 2016

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Comments: Thanks Dan, Steve and others for putting up all these new routes. After climbing a bunch of stuff up to 5.9 there for two days, in general, it seems the ratings of the easier climbs are all over the place.


Location: CA : Redwood Coast : Natural Bridge / High Rock
By: splitclimber When: Feb 18, 2016

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Comments: Rough's guide misstates the mileage from Red Bluff to Wildwood or Highway 3. It is not 15 miles but around 60. We found out the hard way. :)

Plan for 1.25 hours from Red Bluff and you can take wildwood road off Highway 36, you don't need to go to Highway 3 up to hayfork.

The Natural Bridge dirt road is just north of a open meadow area with some homes and barns. You'll see Rhinestone Castle on the right a mile or so before the turnoff going north.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Sonoma Coast State Park : Goat Rock : ... : German Chocolate Cake (5.8)
By: splitclimber When: Feb 3, 2016

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Comments: I remember this top rope being harder than 5.8.

Cool name but def. not a FA. ;)


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Sonoma Coast State Park : Goat Rock : ... : The Bulge (V2)
By: splitclimber When: Feb 3, 2016

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Comments: looks like this is actually on Ram Rock.

Never heard of it referred to as bulge boulder before.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : The Bubble : "Left Edge" (5.10d R)
By: splitclimber When: Oct 20, 2015

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Comments: I cleaned the gravel/dirt off the top of this climb and did a good cleaning on the face to revive this top rope route. You need long slings to set a top rope and to avoid the rope from rubbing on the top out.

Deceivingly fun but hard 5.10 at the top. We did use the arête but tried not to wander over onto the bubble face/slab or whatever it is now named. ;)

The awful looking chimney/offwidth on the left may get scrubbed at some point to milk some more climbs out of the bubble.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena
By: splitclimber When: Oct 20, 2015

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Comments: Volunteers with BACC and RIM club did trail improvements and maintenance on the trail to the quarry and the climber's trail next to it that goes up to the fire road on October 17. We also blocked the shortcuts on the main hikers trail with all of the switchbacks.

After taking the climbers trail from near the parking lot to the "book" monument, follow the well defined trail to the right of the quarry up to the fire road. Please stay on this newly improved trail to avoid further braiding of tra... more >>


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : Silverado Mine
By: splitclimber When: Oct 20, 2015

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Comments: Volunteers with BACC and RIM club did trail improvements and maintenance on the trail to the quarry and the climber's trail next to it that goes up to the fire road on October 17.

To get to the quarry from the "book" monument, take the well defined trail that does a big switchback right to left and avoids going straight up the rocky gully. It is also better to access the top rope chains by continuing up the steep improved trail to the top then wrap around (see Floyd's comments).


Location: CA : High Sierra : 00 - Hoover Wilderness : Flatiron Butte (Shangri La)
By: splitclimber When: Sep 28, 2015

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Comments: Nice addition Vitaliy.

I'll add that the approach is more like 8 miles and there is a 4th known route up the northwest face to the "notch" at 5.8. :)


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Horseshoe Lake Area : Sunshine Wall : Little Gem (5.8)
By: splitclimber When: Sep 18, 2015

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Comments: great climb but I felt the bolts were a little out of place, mostly a weird runout at the end where it still felt sustained.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Horseshoe Lake Area : Sunshine Wall : New Beginnings (5.7)
By: splitclimber When: Sep 18, 2015

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Comments: I'd agree, the move at the bolt is awkward or weird or hard to figure out. 5.7


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Shore : Armstrong Pass : Crack to Knobs (5.6)
By: splitclimber When: Sep 15, 2015

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Comments: obvious line but questionable rock. it was scary and I broke a knob off weighting it with my foot. I fell and the draw on the cam hooked a gear loop and caught my fall. YIKES.

Walk off the back.


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