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Member Since: Jan 22, 2007
Last Visit: 23 hours ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 374 | Routes | Areas | Photos 1 | Page Improvements | Comments 94 | Posts 226 | Stars 27 | Ratings 26
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: Impala- view from southeast

Impala- view from southeast

CA : High Sierra : ... : The Impala

Aug 2, 2016

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Tahoe : Highway 50 Corridor : Slick Rock Dome
By: splitclimber When: Sep 15, 2016

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Comments: Thanks Ney.

I'll bring a 60m tagline and tie knots if we rap friction addition as you suggested. will probably just walk off though.

Are the heights on some of these routes off then? I would think crystal chute would be over 400 feet just for two pitches if each pitch is 70m.

Or am I confusing height vs length?


Location: CA : Tahoe : Highway 50 Corridor : Slick Rock Dome
By: splitclimber When: Sep 13, 2016

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Comments: Hey Ney,
I think you may have mentioned this in the ST thread on slick rock, but do you really need two 70m ropes to rap off some of these climbs? it looks like it from the topo, but wanted to confirm it.

An example is crystal chute - topo makes it look like you need 2 70m ropes to do two raps, but the length of the climb is only 250 feet. ???

I only have 1 70m. :(


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Crystal Crag : Kilt Wall : Off Kilter (5.9)
By: splitclimber When: Sep 9, 2016

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Comments: great climb - getting over the lip is strenuous but very safe. you can also TR most of View to a Kilt to the left with a couple directionals at around 10b/c.

ben nevis corner route is to the right of off kilter, not left.


Location: CA : Redwood Coast : Ossagon Rocks
By: splitclimber When: Sep 8, 2016

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Comments: totally agree Matthias. An amazing place where you can absorb nature's beauty and do some rock climbing. :) I didn't want to leave.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : High Sierra Camps : Nightingale Arete (5.9+) : Photo
By: splitclimber When: Sep 7, 2016

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Comments: thx for posting this Richard.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Cathedral Range : Budd Creek : Unknown (5.9)
By: splitclimber When: Sep 7, 2016

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Comments: not to burst your bubble on the fa

supertopo.com/tr/Unicorn-Peak-...


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Sonoma Coast State Park : Sea Crag : ... : Crack Wall (5.8)
By: splitclimber When: Sep 7, 2016

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Comments: the crack through the roof (left side of pic I think?) is really good

there is an old fixed cam near the start


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Sonoma Coast State Park : Sea Crag : ... : The Sandbagger (5.7)
By: splitclimber When: Sep 7, 2016

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Comments: can also climb crack wall into this climb or the 5.6 to the right of sandbagger and avoid the crappy 4th class gully.


Location: CA : Tahoe : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : East Wall : Pop Bottle (5.7)
By: splitclimber When: Jul 25, 2016

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Comments: felt the crux buldge on pitch 1 was 5.7.

I started the second pitch left of the bolt to not be exposed over the large corner and so your belayer can spot you. If you start out right on larger dikes a fall here onto your belayer would not have a good outcome.

I don't see the need for the bolted anchor (retro?) on pitch 2, just keep climbing and belay when the rope runs out.


Location: CA : Tahoe : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : Hogsback : ... : Harvey's Wallbangers Left (5.8)
By: splitclimber When: Jul 25, 2016

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Comments: talked to a team that just finished this and he said it was pretty dirty and not enjoyable.


Location: CA : Tahoe : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : Hogsback : ... : Harvey's Wallbangers, Right (5.7)
By: splitclimber When: Jul 25, 2016

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Comments: can do in 1 pitch with a 70m rope. belay 20' or so up from the tree or simul a little bit.

fun worthwhile route. I didn't see the need for a 4" piece to safely protect the crux roof. A 3" for the first roof, then a 1" for the second roof.


Location: CA : High Sierra : 01 - Hoover Wilderness : Flatiron Butte (Shangri La)
By: splitclimber When: May 31, 2016

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Comments: Secor's guide doesn't extend this far north. ;)

the climb/FA? I did up the northwest face is named

Little Walker's Big Reveal, III, 5-6p, 5.8.

It starts left of a low angle blocky buttress up and left through a cool white dike, through some 3rd class then up an obvious "20-25 foot wide ramp" feature, right of the black dot that goes mostly straight up to the notch left of the summit. A short ... more >>


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena
By: splitclimber When: Feb 23, 2016

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Comments: Jim Thornburg updated his Bay Area Rocks guidebook and included Black Tower, next to Kimball Crag, which was included in the previous version.

However, the Black Tower climbs are listed in reverse order in the guidebook. The correct order from left to right is:

south face
Corkscrew - 5.9+

Barrel Roll - 5.10a/b

east face
5.8

Wingman - 5.8

you can use a 60 meter rope on the two 5.8's, but you better tie a knot in the ends when rapping. I really recommend belaying from above when belaying... more >>


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Sonoma Coast State Park : Goat Rock : Sunset Boulders
By: splitclimber When: Feb 22, 2016

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Comments: Please tread lightly, avoid trampling vegetation and leave no trace at these beautiful boulders. If coming in large groups, please carpool and consider other climbers experience here. thx.


Location: CA : Northeast California : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Main Wall Cave Routes
By: splitclimber When: Feb 19, 2016

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Comments: good to know and good idea. Thanks Dan.


Location: CA : Northeast California : Lassen National Park : Eagle Peak aka The Rock Ban... : Peapod and Right : Dog Days (5.4)
By: splitclimber When: Feb 18, 2016

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Comments: OK climb but a little dirty.


Location: CA : Northeast California : Lassen National Park : The Belly Button aka Vulcan... : First and Second Terrace : Sweet Crack Left (5.7)
By: splitclimber When: Feb 18, 2016

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Comments: really run. shuteye ridge sent some beautiful and fun chickenheads to the plug.


Location: CA : Northeast California : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Main Wall Cave Routes
By: splitclimber When: Feb 18, 2016

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Comments: What's up with the anchor bolts and chain on the boulder at the base between the cave routes and the main wall? A local thought it was for rope soloing but it is in a weird location. Did that boulder fall off the wall?


Location: CA : Northeast California : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Wonderland : Gryphon's Groove (5.6)
By: splitclimber When: Feb 18, 2016

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Comments: OK climb. looks like potential for another route to the right from the pit.


Location: CA : Northeast California : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Outer Wall : The Nose (5.8)
By: splitclimber When: Feb 18, 2016

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Comments: fun juggy climb. The rattling jug isn't going anywhere. I moved over to the right side of the arĂȘte just above the fourth bolt, not like the topo photo. The inside face felt 10a/b and the chimney is really fun on TR.


Location: CA : Northeast California : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Outer Wall : Cheeky Bastard (5.7)
By: splitclimber When: Feb 18, 2016

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Comments: hard finish to the new? anchor location but a great climb that could probably be lead on gear. I think I missed another right hand mono for a better finish. I never grab anchor chains, but did on this one. :)

The line left of the bolt line was great too.


Location: CA : Northeast California : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Opposite Main Wall : Chopper Copper (5.8)
By: splitclimber When: Feb 18, 2016

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Comments: Heady with two small pinches and not much for feet at the crux. I went out to the arĂȘte for one move, then back on the face. Runout but cool finish with the underclings.


Location: CA : Northeast California : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Opposite Main Wall : Wintu Wall (5.4)
By: splitclimber When: Feb 18, 2016

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Comments: pretty darn easy except for the finish, which is 5.5 or 5.6. Harder than Gateway Drug for sure.

A fun TR variation if you avoid the flake and climb right of the bolt line. 10a or so.


Location: CA : Northeast California : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Opposite Main Wall : Terrys Angels (5.7)
By: splitclimber When: Feb 18, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: hard to call this a 5.8, but close. Easier but more thought provoking than The Nose.


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