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Member Since: Sep 26, 2009
Last Visit: Apr 9, 2014
Contact spencerparkin


Point Rank: # 1,741
Total Points: 317
Last Year: 21
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas are worth 15
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All (306) | Routes (8) | Areas (1) | Photos (33) | Comments (57) | Posts (193) | Stars (12) | Ratings (2)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Farmington Crag : Cool Air (5.7) : Photo
By: spencerparkin When: Jan 30, 2014

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Comments: Dear Eric,

You were not just my cousin, you were my friend. You will be sorely missed.

--Spencer


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Willow Canyon : Big Willow Cirque : Giggles (5.8) : Photo
By: spencerparkin When: Aug 1, 2013

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Comments: Smog-tastic!


Location: Fast_Eddie. : Mt. Olympus : Photo
By: spencerparkin When: Jul 15, 2013

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Comments: Cut the rope.


Location: Fast_Eddie. : Mt. Olympus : Photo
By: spencerparkin When: Jul 15, 2013

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Comments: I recall botching that move. If I was on lead, I would have fallen here.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : Waterfall Dome : The Bellagio (5.7) : Photo
By: spencerparkin When: Jul 15, 2013

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Comments: The piece-of-shit person in this photo is me.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Schoolroom (5.6)
By: spencerparkin When: Jun 24, 2013

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Comments: I'm sure someone has done it that way, because I remember seeing a bolt on the face of that pitch.


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Morning Glory Wall : Zebra/ Zion (5.10b) : Photo
By: spencerparkin When: Dec 3, 2012

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Comments: Is it me, or is there no rope in this photo?!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Wave Wall : Wave Wall Arete (V1) : Photo
By: spencerparkin When: Oct 20, 2012

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Comments: Even if I could climb this, I would never climb on the side of the road for the same reason I would never want to run on the side of the road. You're probably thinking that I'm afraid of getting hit by a car. Well, that too, but the main reason is, I really enjoy breathing fresh air. That's one of the major reasons to visit the mountains: fresh air. You're not going to get that on the side of the road in the overused, overrun BCC. Tail-pipe exhaust and burning break fumes! Yum!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Geezer Wall : Photo
By: spencerparkin When: Oct 20, 2012

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Comments: Maybe a screamer is all he had to complete his set of draws. Beggars can't be choosers.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Geezer Wall : Main Slab : Lifeline (5.7)
By: spencerparkin When: Oct 20, 2012

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Comments: Left a #5 or maybe it was a #6 Metolius nut in this climb today. It is fused in there. I couldn't get it out. Free loot!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Geezer Wall
By: spencerparkin When: Oct 20, 2012

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Comments: At the base of Lower Dentures/Sweet Louise we found a bag of anchor hardware. Looked like a bunch of stuff that could be used to bolt new routes and setup fixed anchors. We left it where we found it, but wanted to say something in case that someone forgot it there. Other parties climbed there today. Not sure if they left it there too. Probably worth a lot of money and will probably rust with the coming winter. Don't think it was the original hardware ripped out of geezer wall.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The North Gym : Apogee Pending (5.14a) : Photo
By: spencerparkin When: Oct 11, 2012

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Comments: Rooooock!!...

:/


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Lizard Head Wall : Zigzag (5.10d PG13)
By: spencerparkin When: Oct 1, 2012

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Comments: I don't know exactly what the ethic of the area says about bolts, but I'm willing to bet that if I put any bolts in, (and I wouldn't know how anyway), that I would get scolded by the climbing community.

Climbing bolts are a complicated subject.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Lizard Head Wall : Zigzag (5.10d PG13)
By: spencerparkin When: Sep 29, 2012

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Comments: My wife belayed me today on a variation of P1. I may not have found the real end of P1, but did find a big horn with some chord slung about it. The protection was thin. The most committing move was a lie-back well above the last piece of protection. I'm going to guess that this variation was about 5.6, maybe 7. I'm glad I didn't get hurt.

I wouldn't mind seeing more sport routes in LCC.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : Waterfall Dome : For Whom the Bells Toll (5.7)
By: spencerparkin When: Jun 21, 2012

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Comments: I should also add that when I originally went to look for this route, (without Tristan's help), I ended up crossing what I thought was the right bridge, (but was the wrong bridge), and bush-wacked for about an hour before giving up. It's not the first bridge you come to that you cross. It's a bridge about an hour or maybe 2 up the trail from the start. Did Tristan post a picture of the right bridge?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : Waterfall Dome : For Whom the Bells Toll (5.7) : Photo
By: spencerparkin When: Jun 21, 2012

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Comments: Interestingly, the route becomes almost 2nd class terrain just before the 5.7 moves of the second-to-last pitch.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : Waterfall Dome : For Whom the Bells Toll (5.7)
By: spencerparkin When: Jun 21, 2012

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Comments: Travis, this is a difficult route to find. Tristan himself guided me to the start of the route, (and the route itself), and it does require quite a bit of bush wacking, but I don't remember it being too bad. After heading generally North-North-East, (if my memory serves), you'll find the granite cliffs, and you simply skirt the edge of them Westward until you find the start. Along the way, you may find an abandoned golf club that marks the start of one of the 5.11 climbs.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Glass Ocean and Environs : Patty's Ridge (5.5)
By: spencerparkin When: Jun 18, 2012

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Comments: Tristan was kind enough to take me up this route and put up with my blabbering. His beta is right on. I would add just a few things.

It may be worth noting that the start of the exposed ridge is truly knife edge, as in: razor sharp! A rope loaded over this edge would surely cut like butter. And since its a travers, the rope wouldn't just load over the edge, but skid along it too.

Also, poison oak (or ivey or whatever) grows at the start of the route, so be aware of that.

The crux section ... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Farmington Crag : Cool Air (5.7)
By: spencerparkin When: Jun 12, 2012

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Comments: My brother-in-law and I climbed this yesterday and noticed some chunks of rock ready to go. We couldn't release them, but they were very loose. Watch for these loose rocks as they were perfectly situated above the belayer, ready to take him or her out.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Lisa Falls : Lisa Falls Buttress : Lisa Falls Right (5.5)
By: spencerparkin When: Mar 23, 2012

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Comments: The mantel move is a bit scary for the first time lead and the first time leader, but once done, even though you do have to climb up a bit further before finding protection, I don't think it's that heady or dangerous for the new leader, because it's pretty easy after that point. It is important to protect the mantel move for the second climber, which is easily done with protection peices placed almost directly above it as a directional from the first belay station. On her first go, my wife fel... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Schoolroom (5.6)
By: spencerparkin When: Oct 26, 2011

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Comments: I've read this entire thread and I've climbed School Room. I led the first pitch, but followed all other pitches. I'm hoping to lead the whole thing soon.

I just have to say something about that 4th pitch OW. I've seen it done 2 different ways: 1) as an OW, and 2) and a chimney. Those who do it as an OW are grunting, while those who do it as a chimney fly right up it. I backed off the lead for the 4th pitch, because I got spooked by the run-out at the crux where it's steepest, but when I f... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Lisa Falls : Lisa Falls Buttress : Hard Knocks (5.9+ R)
By: spencerparkin When: Oct 15, 2011

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Comments: My wife and I did this pitch today. Warning: bees have made a home in the crack just above the anchors for the start of this pitch. It would have otherwise made a good placement, but it's not really needed. Bees probably do this often, so it may be worth adding as beta, not a condition report.

Yeah, this is not 5.9+. The entire climb would be 5.5 if it weren't for the crux moves up the smeary section. I'd say maybe 5.7+. I slid off it twice, but the ledge saved me. Even with no ledge, th... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : Waterfall Dome : The Bellagio (5.7) : Photo
By: spencerparkin When: Sep 24, 2011

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Comments: Nice topo!

There might some more fun lines in this that go up some steeper sections of rock, just for the hell of it.

To the West are some much steeper sections and there was this interesting looking granite arch. You could see a sliver of sky beneath it.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : Waterfall Dome : The Bellagio (5.7)
By: spencerparkin When: Sep 24, 2011

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Comments: I'll just add a few thoughts about the route, FWIW. The over-all route gets a rating of 5.7 because of the crux moves, but it's certainly not sustained 5.7. I'd say that more than 90% of the route is about 5.5. On pitch 1, I'd say the crux move is 5.6. In my experience, (which, admittedly, is no where near as much as Tristan's), to go from 5.6 to 5.7, there's got to be a bit of pumpyness involved, and there's no pumpyness in this crux move. It's just balancy and heady to me. In fact, there... more >>


Location: spencerparkin : Trying to find For Whom The... : Photo
By: spencerparkin When: Sep 17, 2011

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Comments: We went up to the base of this. We didn't know if we needed to go West or East. This picture was taken facing North. I can't get any of our other photos to upload.


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