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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : Waterfall Dome : For Whom the Bells Toll (5.7)
By: spencerparkin When: Jun 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I should also add that when I originally went to look for this route, (without Tristan's help), I ended up crossing what I thought was the right bridge, (but was the wrong bridge), and bush-wacked for about an hour before giving up. It's not the first bridge you come to that you cross. It's a bridge about an hour or maybe 2 up the trail from the start. Did Tristan post a picture of the right bridge?
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : Waterfall Dome : For Whom the Bells Toll (5.7) : Photo
By: spencerparkin When: Jun 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Interestingly, the route becomes almost 2nd class terrain just before the 5.7 moves of the second-to-last pitch.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : Waterfall Dome : For Whom the Bells Toll (5.7)
By: spencerparkin When: Jun 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Travis, this is a difficult route to find. Tristan himself guided me to the start of the route, (and the route itself), and it does require quite a bit of bush wacking, but I don't remember it being too bad. After heading generally North-North-East, (if my memory serves), you'll find the granite cliffs, and you simply skirt the edge of them Westward until you find the start. Along the way, you may find an abandoned golf club that marks the start of one of the 5.11 climbs.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Farmington Crag : Cool Air (5.7)
By: spencerparkin When: Jun 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: My brother-in-law and I climbed this yesterday and noticed some chunks of rock ready to go. We couldn't release them, but they were very loose. Watch for these loose rocks as they were perfectly situated above the belayer, ready to take him or her out.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Lisa Falls : Lisa Falls Buttress : Lisa Falls Right (5.5)
By: spencerparkin When: Mar 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The mantel move is a bit scary for the first time lead and the first time leader, but once done, even though you do have to climb up a bit further before finding protection, I don't think it's that heady or dangerous for the new leader, because it's pretty easy after that point. It is important to protect the mantel move for the second climber, which is easily done with protection peices placed almost directly above it as a directional from the first belay station. On her first go, my wife fel... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Schoolroom (5.6)
By: spencerparkin When: Oct 26, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've read this entire thread and I've climbed School Room. I led the first pitch, but followed all other pitches. I'm hoping to lead the whole thing soon.
I just have to say something about that 4th pitch OW. I've seen it done 2 different ways: 1) as an OW, and 2) and a chimney. Those who do it as an OW are grunting, while those who do it as a chimney fly right up it. I backed off the lead for the 4th pitch, because I got spooked by the run-out at the crux where it's steepest, but when I f... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Lisa Falls : Lisa Falls Buttress : Hard Knocks (5.9+ R)
By: spencerparkin When: Oct 15, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: My wife and I did this pitch today. Warning: bees have made a home in the crack just above the anchors for the start of this pitch. It would have otherwise made a good placement, but it's not really needed. Bees probably do this often, so it may be worth adding as beta, not a condition report.
Yeah, this is not 5.9+. The entire climb would be 5.5 if it weren't for the crux moves up the smeary section. I'd say maybe 5.7+. I slid off it twice, but the ledge saved me. Even with no ledge, th... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : Waterfall Dome : The Bellagio (5.7) : Photo
By: spencerparkin When: Sep 24, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice topo!
There might some more fun lines in this that go up some steeper sections of rock, just for the hell of it.
To the West are some much steeper sections and there was this interesting looking granite arch. You could see a sliver of sky beneath it.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : Waterfall Dome : The Bellagio (5.7)
By: spencerparkin When: Sep 24, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'll just add a few thoughts about the route, FWIW. The over-all route gets a rating of 5.7 because of the crux moves, but it's certainly not sustained 5.7. I'd say that more than 90% of the route is about 5.5. On pitch 1, I'd say the crux move is 5.6. In my experience, (which, admittedly, is no where near as much as Tristan's), to go from 5.6 to 5.7, there's got to be a bit of pumpyness involved, and there's no pumpyness in this crux move. It's just balancy and heady to me. In fact, there... more >>
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Location: spencerparkin : Trying to find For Whom The... : Photo
By: spencerparkin When: Sep 17, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: We went up to the base of this. We didn't know if we needed to go West or East. This picture was taken facing North. I can't get any of our other photos to upload.
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Location: paintrain : Paintrain : Photo
By: spencerparkin When: Dec 8, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I can take the limit as the denominator approaches zero from the right ot the left.
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Location: Rockwood : My Climbing World : Photo
By: spencerparkin When: Nov 28, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow, you have nice hair.
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Location: Fast_Eddie. : The Canyons : Photo
By: spencerparkin When: Oct 17, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: That has got to be the OW on Crecent Crack, isn't it? That thing is my nemasis!!
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Location: Community Forum : Women of Rock climbing cale... : Photo
By: spencerparkin When: Oct 15, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm in love.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress : Crescent Crack (5.7)
By: spencerparkin When: Oct 15, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: So I followed pitch 2 yesterday and was completely defeated by the OW. I could only get into it enough to pull out the #4 BD cam. What I ended up doing is swing on the rope out to the chicken-head on the face to the right of it and then climb up that. With a bit of tension from the rope every now and then, I got past the OW. Once past the OW, the 2nd pitch is a no-brainer.
I was truely humbled by this OW stuff. Maybe one day.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress : Crescent Crack (5.7) : Photo
By: spencerparkin When: Oct 15, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: After my being defeated by this OW yesterday, I have to say, very impressive.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Lisa Falls : Lisa Falls Buttress : ... : Photo
By: spencerparkin When: Oct 12, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Any guy who has ever climbed? Unfortunately, I am an excellent counter-example to your argument.
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Location: Fast_Eddie. : Sundial Peak : Photo
By: spencerparkin When: Oct 6, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: It was just after taking this picture that, to my great surprise, Eddie lept right over the edge! Little did I know, however, that Eddie can actually fly. He waited for me at the base of the climb while I tediuosly rapped down the rappels.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Sundial : Eleventh Hour (5.8)
By: spencerparkin When: Sep 25, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I got to climb this again yesterday, thanks to Fast Eddie. I should revise one statement I made about this climb earlier in the season and it's the statement about needing a brimmed hat. I'm no astrologer, but I think that the sun arcs across the sky higher in the Spring and Summer than in the Fall and Winter. Consequently, in the Spring, the sun was in our face for most of the climb. Yesterday, a Fall day, Fast Eddie and I didn't see the sun all day until we reached the top. And by the way... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Sundial : Eleventh Hour (5.8) : Photo
By: spencerparkin When: Sep 25, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This pitch goes at 5.5 if you go to the arete on the left. I know, because I suck at climbing, and I led this pitch. If you stay out on the face or go near the corner, then it's probably 5.8. There were plenty of protection opportunities on the arete too.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Sundial : Eleventh Hour (5.8) : Photo
By: spencerparkin When: Sep 21, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Knowing that one of the segments in the picture is a hike around the corner, I count only 5 pitches. The last pitch could certainly have been combined with the 4th...with a 70, I think...making it 4 pitches.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Storm Mountain Island : Layback Crack (5.5)
By: spencerparkin When: Jul 9, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: New trad leader here. This was a fun lead for me, because it was fun to push through the scare and make it to the top of the first pitch. The rest of the pitches were much easier.
I guess I need to practice placing nuts more, because I felt like the crack took cams better than nuts. I even placed a #3 camalot where it might have been better for a #4, if I had one. I only placed one nut.
It's worth mentioning that you have to be careful at the top of the first pitch to keep the ... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Storm Mountain Island : Six Appeal (5.6)
By: spencerparkin When: Jul 9, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Lead this climb for the first time yesterday evening. The sun went down on us before we finished up with the climb. Fortunately, we had one head-lamp between us and we had a 70 meter rope. After making sure that the 70 was bisected at the top anchor for Six Appeal, we were able to rappel in the pitch black dark down the 4th class scramble. So I just wanted to share that if you've got a 70, you can rappel instead of down-climb that section. Down-climbing it in the dark would not have been fu... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Sundial : Eleventh Hour (5.8)
By: spencerparkin When: Jul 7, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I had the opportunity to follow Mike Kaserman (UMA guide) up this route last Saturday. It was a great climb! I could go on and on, but I'll spare you.
Rock fall was a major hazard on the pitch that goes under and around the huge roof. There was a lot of loose stuff there and it consisted of big huge death blocks ready to go. Also, interestingly, it was at the start of this and the second pitch where some warm layers were needed, even on a typical hot summer Utah day.
Don't forget to bring ... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Salt Lake Slips : Thieving Magpie (5.7)
By: spencerparkin When: Jul 1, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've just finished reading the comment thread for this route. It should be added, concerning the Tyrolean Traverse, that it has since been removed by the Forest Service, I believe, because someone tried to utilize it without clipping into it and ended up drowning down-stream. Since then, the SLCA or UMA, or perhaps both, put in a great trail to the SL slips area from Storm Mountain.
Being fairly new to climbing and therefore quite impressionable of other climbers, my view on fixed protection ... more >>
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