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Location: UT : Echo Canyon : The Dry Wall
By: Spencer Anderson When: Sep 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anyone know the name and grade of the link up that starts on Graffiti Patient and ends on Stop That Train?
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace : Mineshaft Wall : Photo
By: Spencer Anderson When: Aug 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's called Cannon Ball and goes at 12b. I haven't added it because I've yet to climb it.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace : The Palace Pages : Sporting Green (5.12a)
By: Spencer Anderson When: Aug 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did this route again today. I have to agree this is one of The Palace classics. I'll also agree on the grade. Guidebook says 12b, but it feels much more like 12a. Because of consensus, I've down graded here. And belaying from the ground is much better.
Warning. The really good tooth rest hold felt loose today. I can't remember if it was that loose when I climbed it last time (two years ago). I’m not sure if it’s chocked in or what but if that hold blows it would certainly bump the grade to 1... more >>
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Crystal Wall : Duke's Wall : The General Lee (5.12a)
By: Spencer Anderson When: Jul 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this route again. Still really good. My favorite at the Crystal Wall. Reminds me a bit of Rife with the pocket, flat jugs and pinches. Sweet. Almost four stars for me.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Carter Lake : Kahuna Boulder : Kahuna Roof (V5)
By: Spencer Anderson When: Jul 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was on Kahuna recently now that the water is low enough (freaky rain this year) and the side pull seems the same as it was last season. I've always felt that V5 was a bit of a sand bag but certainly not V7.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace : Red Wall : Red Hot Space Suit (5.12b)
By: Spencer Anderson When: May 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is indeed a great line. Really fun moves. Guidebook says 12b, but I found that a little soft.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Hard Rock : Teeanova (5.11d)
By: Spencer Anderson When: Aug 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: AF classic. Definitely feels on the 12a side. All of the moves are there. The most difficult part is how many sucker, chalked up pockets there are. This made it seem hard to stay on route. Hard onsight but whoa what a satisfying route.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Crystal Wall : Duke's Wall : The General Lee (5.12a)
By: Spencer Anderson When: Oct 13, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with beavs, this route is great and not dangerous (that's not what I meant in my description), it just looks intimidating and needs to clean up a bit more. When we worked this route over two weeks, with about a dozen total ascents, we got most of dirt and lose rock off.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Crystal Wall : North Face : Fantastic Voyage (5.11d)
By: Spencer Anderson When: Jun 11, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think we are talking about the same route. The bolting is fairly spaced out, at least compared to the other routes on the wall. The good thing is that they are there when you need them, so it doesn't feel sketchy.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Crystal Wall : North Face : Fantastic Voyage (5.11d)
By: Spencer Anderson When: Jun 4, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed both of the right most routes and from what I can tell (which may not be correct) they both end at the same anchors. However, with this line you have to do some considerable traversing to the left to get to the anchors. It seems strange that someone would go to that much trouble to put the anchors so far out there. I'll update the posting when I get a chance to do the second pitch, any suggestions/clarifications would be helpful.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Crystal Wall : North Face : Fantastic Voyage (5.11d)
By: Spencer Anderson When: Jun 4, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Derek, thanks for the info. Is the second route part of this line or the one to the left? From what I could tell, the two right most routes shared anchors. Who does the second pitch belong to? I guess it doesn't matter other than just organizational purposes.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace : Vatoville : Ghost of Cedar Creek (5.11a)
By: Spencer Anderson When: Apr 21, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good edges, great route. Stick with the line and you shouldn't run into any chossy rock.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace : The Scepter : The Scepter (5.10a)
By: Spencer Anderson When: Apr 21, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this route for the first time today and noticed that it had bolts on the right face (east). Did seem like I needed them when I lead the route. What are they for? Can you climb the right face, how hard is it?
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace : The Chamber : Rusty Shackleford (5.11d)
By: Spencer Anderson When: Apr 21, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not too bad of a climb, just not very consistent. The difficulty eases up considerably after the first two or three clips. The ledges provide lengthy rests.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace : The Palace Pages : Battle Axe (5.9+)
By: Spencer Anderson When: Apr 3, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Worth climbing. Best part about the route is the length. Be careful if this is your limit, the route seems to be runout in places.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace : Mineshaft Wall : Monstrosity (5.10b)
By: Spencer Anderson When: Mar 30, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun, but very pumpy for the grade.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace : Mineshaft Wall : Armor Plated (5.11c)
By: Spencer Anderson When: Mar 30, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very fun but not consistent, middle part is much easier and provides good rests. First few moves are great, watch the foot work if you hit the gaston at the overhang.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace : The Palace Pages : Sunday Paper (5.9)
By: Spencer Anderson When: Mar 30, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bad start, and crappy approach, leads to great slab climbing.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace : The Palace Pages : Dear Slabby (5.11b)
By: Spencer Anderson When: Mar 30, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The best route that I've done at the Palace thus far. fun.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : S-Curve - Upper Wall : Skyscraper (5.8)
By: Spencer Anderson When: Mar 12, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: When I did the route today I found anchors at the top, didn't need to use the tree. P.S. Bring a rope longer than 60m.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Escape Buttress : Monkey Meet (5.10d)
By: Spencer Anderson When: Nov 5, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are 9 bolts and two for the anchor. Best route on the wall.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Membrane : Caress of Steel (5.10a)
By: Spencer Anderson When: Oct 15, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pumpy and polished definitely made this feel harder than .10a. Very fun with lots of big jugs, not to be missed.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Millstone : Miller Time (5.10c)
By: Spencer Anderson When: Oct 14, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Questionable bolt placements (the first in particular) and hideous rope drag makes this route needlessly frustrating.
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