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Member Since: Jun 9, 2008
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact Spencer Weiler


Point Rank: # 247
Total Points: 2,291
Last Year: 433
Last 30 Days: 47
27 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Spencer Weiler been climbing?










Contributions


All 970 | Routes 58 | Areas 10 | Photos 254 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 285 | Posts 99 | Stars 241 | Ratings 21
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Saint George : Green Valley Gap : Redneck Wonderland (5.12c)
By: Spencer Weiler When: 2 days ago

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Comments: In a place largely full of what would be one star climbs at most crags, this one gets 3 stars for the gap. Staying left and traversing over back right above the 2nd bolt seems the most natural, less contrived way versus using the crappy crimp and diagnoling across the direct bolt line which gives it the 12c grade, but this variation likely downgrades it to 11d or so, though the chalk indicates most do it the Easier way. Cool honeycomb pockets!


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Kolob Canyon : South Fork of Taylor : Namaste Wall : Photo
By: Spencer Weiler When: 4 days ago

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Comments: Great photo. Should clear up any confusion.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Kolob Canyon : South Fork of Taylor
By: Spencer Weiler When: 4 days ago

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Comments: Ben you are mistaken about the location of twins. You probably didn't see the route between huecos and mitra due to the camo black hangers. For clarification: left to right
Unknown half route- 10+ with 3 bolt 11+ extension
Huecos rancheros 12c
Twins paradox 13a/12-. Black hangers
Dost mitra 11a.
Namaste 12a
Abandoned project with a few bolts and ratty slings in super choss rock
Around corner is a chopped route with a lone drilled angle that leads to an arching crack with anchors


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Kolob Canyon : South Fork of Taylor : Namaste Wall : Huecos Rancheros (5.12c)
By: Spencer Weiler When: 4 days ago

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Comments: Can I get some salsa with these huecos? 35m of 5.10 jug glory with 2 sit down hueco rests gives ample opportunity to enter the crux with zero pump. The guy I climbed with sat there for 10 minutes in hueco 2 before he started up. The crimps are decent and feet are awesome. No way this is 12c. Regarding the loose bolt mentioned previously, it seems fine as the same guy with me whipped on it 3-4 times, though many of the bolt hangers seem a bit loose, consistent with the other climbs. Glue ins woul... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Billboard Trail : The Billboard
By: Spencer Weiler When: Apr 18, 2015

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Comments: Jeremy's directions are spot on. The trail is pretty decent now, not sure what it was like 10 years ago but it's easy to follow now and like brad says, it's maybe 15-20 minutes, not 30-40 like ruckmans suggest. Had no problems finding the crag my first time


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Billboard Trail : The Billboard : Beeline (5.12b)
By: Spencer Weiler When: Apr 18, 2015

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Comments: Bolts 1-2 moves are pretty cruxy, involving a cross through move off 2 mediocre 2 finger pockets, followed by a big throw to a hole that isn't so good either. The pockets also disappear near the top before a short traverse left where crimping is in order. Finding the right sequence through the myriad of sucker pockets and locating feet is the hardest part through the middle. Felt hard on the onsight go.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : China Wall : First Blood (5.11a)
By: Spencer Weiler When: Apr 6, 2015

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Comments: Nice addition to a wall that is lacking in true moderates. Fun warmup


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Optimator : Annunaki (5.11c)
By: Spencer Weiler When: Apr 2, 2015

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Comments: I told my grandma this really cool 12a was as soft as her rice pudding. After she onsighted it she agreed. She said a 95% hand crack with jugs and one required finger lock doesn't make a .12 at the creek. There you have it boys and girls. And she has kinda large hands too(for a grandma)


Location: UT : Saint George : Welcome Springs : The Cathedral : Speaking In Tongues (5.12b)
By: Spencer Weiler When: Mar 28, 2015

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Comments: Pretty fun route, wish i would have done this route 15 years ago. Most of the feet are more polished than my grandpas tuxedo shoes. Too bad the gym setters can't strip this and put up a fresh one.


Location: UT : Saint George : Welcome Springs
By: Spencer Weiler When: Mar 28, 2015

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Comments: It's a bit of a confusing approach for first timers(maybe just me). Pass through a green gate east of the corrals and hike 10 minutes up past many cottonwoods to a 2nd green gate on your right ,ignoring many side roads/paths along the way. After passing through the 2nd gate, hug the fence line on a trail to a doubletrack and then take a left up the next obvious wash after passing a decent sized wall on your right. Sumo wall will be on your left. The wash contours north then west and look for hu... more >>


Location: UT : Saint George : Welcome Springs : The Wailing Wall : Casting Aspersions (5.11b)
By: Spencer Weiler When: Mar 28, 2015

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Comments: Great technical route, opposite of the thuggery in the cathedral. Crux is pulling the small roof after clipping the extended chain on bolt 4, but the upper section with stemming is the puzzler. Textured rock makes for excellent sticky feet(again unlike the cathedral), but a fall is ill advised for your shins' sake. Easiest route on the wailing wall, so i guess it's the warmup.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Scenic Byway Wall : Lonesome Scenery (5.12a)
By: Spencer Weiler When: Mar 22, 2015

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Comments: Not a great route, but ok. Pretty hard move by the bolt leads to significantly easier climbing though nothing on this route is crack climbing. It's all super thin gear, nothing bigger than .3 camalot fits. Triples in green and red c3 with a couple purples and .3s.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Vertical Smile Wall : BBQ Bomber (5.11c/d)
By: Spencer Weiler When: Mar 22, 2015

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Comments: You can easily dump all your .75's in the bottom corner before the first roof, but make sure you have at least one .75, 1, and .5 cam for the final corner. This thing is a full on Indian creek style pitch, solid 35m. I found the pulling the first roof and switching to ow to be the crux. Wanted to trundle the big loose block above first roof but didn't. Lots of rests, but long. Seemed like Everytime you transitioned from one corner to the next one loose choss was waiting for you.
Rack: three .4s... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Bird's View Butte / Crow's ... : Photo
By: Spencer Weiler When: Mar 16, 2015

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Comments: Ben:
I've never laughed so hard at a MP comment.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Charlie Horse Needle
By: Spencer Weiler When: Mar 15, 2015

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Comments: The directions to get here are spot on, just know you won't get a very good view of the towers until you are hiking up the wash, so don't rely on actually seeing the tower to indicate where to stop and park. 1.2 miles from the NP boundary is perfect.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Moses : Dunn Route (5.11-)
By: Spencer Weiler When: Mar 15, 2015

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Comments: Detailed pitch beta:

Pitch 1- mostly easier wide crack that doesn't require much actual OW technique. 2 #4 cams are nice, a 5 protects the top OW though it's kinda tipped out. Small gear can be found right before it, so I'd leave it at home. 2 drilled angles for belay

Pitch 2-3. - linking this into one massive pitch is the way to go for the best belay ledges and efficiency but you can stop pretty much anywhere if you need to. Lots of little ledges along the way. An intermediate belay wit... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Charlie Horse Needle : Sims-Hesse-Hanning Route (5.11c)
By: Spencer Weiler When: Mar 15, 2015

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Comments: The only crappy thing about this climb is the name. Hyphenated people names do not make good climbing routes. My suggestion is Rhabdo(muscle destruction), but whatever.

Detailed pitch beta:
Pitch 1- physical splitter fists for 30 feet with a #6 camalot corner crack available for leg jams, then follow crack right as it narrows up a easy ramp into the chimney. Belay off #2 camalots at a comfy boulder stance(only one needed for next pitch) or very reasonable to link into the next pitc... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Zeus : Sisyphus (5.11 R)
By: Spencer Weiler When: Mar 15, 2015

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Comments: Very detailed pitch by pitch beta. Climbed 3/14/15. First summit register ascent of 2015

Pitch 1- climb easy and fun 5.8 cracks up the lower angle corner with great gear. When you reach the roof, look for good gear in a horizontal. Getting around and above the roof requires small side pulls, a flaring finger pod, and a good crimp(felt hard 5.10) but your last piece is lower than you'd like and no pro exists until gaining a good foot ledge above on the left. Once above the roof, a manky star dri... more >>


Location: UT : Saint George : Beaver Damn Road : Sunset Alley : The Blank Cave
By: Spencer Weiler When: Feb 15, 2015

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Comments: Misty Murphy refers to this as the "blank cave" in a write up about the utah hills in dpm magazine.

mydigitalpublication.com/artic...


Location: UT : Saint George : Beaver Damn Road : Sunset Alley
By: Spencer Weiler When: Feb 15, 2015

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Comments: The turnoff from old highway 89 is right after mile marker 10. The dirt road climbs fairly steeply and then flattens out at the top of the hill, which is where several spur roads appear. A cairn marks the correct right turn onto the discrete ATV sized road (ok for cars) that descends through trees east down to the small parking area. A great singletrack trail can be easily spotted here that continues the descent down the wash to the walls. 15 min or less to the cave from the parking. All the dis... more >>


Location: UT : Saint George : Turtle Wall : The Actual Parchments (5.13a)
By: Spencer Weiler When: Jan 8, 2015

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Comments: I tried the route for the first time a couple months ago, and the only hold I saw that was available on the upper crux for the left hand between the gaston crimp and the pocket was a sandy, twinkie looking, fragile pinch hold. It wasn't chalked or looked like it had been used like most of the rest of the route. After looking at a couple of the videos online, it does appear like a hold in that area broke, leaving the sandy pinch as the remaining option. Can't comment on whether its more/less diff... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park : North Guardian Angel : East Ridge (4th)
By: Spencer Weiler When: Dec 3, 2014

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Comments: This isn't a climb, its a scramble. My non-climbing dad and sister did this in tennis shoes solo up and down. Don't bother bringing gear. Way less heady than Pine Valley Peak. only 3-4 sections where you actually use your hands. Fun route and definitely worth doing with some other peaks in the area.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Isaac : Tricks of the Trade (5.10+ C2+) : Photo
By: Spencer Weiler When: Nov 21, 2014

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Comments: Sick! great shot


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : City Creek Canyon : Shoreline Crag : Shoreline (5.12c)
By: Spencer Weiler When: Nov 6, 2014

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Comments: A hard cross through move to an awkward cobble pinch around bolt 5 was the crux for me. A giant dish/hole thing after that move has a massive jug that you could camp out on, then a secret pocket out left gets you out of the hole and its one more bolt on a devious, "what-do-I-grab?" vertical section to the anchors.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : City Creek Canyon : Shoreline Crag : Bat Slab (5.11c)
By: Spencer Weiler When: Nov 6, 2014

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Comments: Don't get sucked to the left as the wall gets less steep around bolt 3-4, find the sweet two finger and mono out right that leads to big positive pockets to top. More techy than the other routes here.


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