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Member Since: Jun 9, 2008
Last Visit: 5 days ago
Contact Spencer Weiler

Point Rank: # 251
Total Points: 2,345
Last Year: 391
Last 30 Days: 6
29 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Spencer Weiler been climbing?










Contributions


All 1004 | Routes 58 | Areas 10 | Photos 262 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 299 | Posts 103 | Stars 248 | Ratings 22
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Zeus : Sisyphus (5.11 R) : Photo
By: Spencer Weiler When: Aug 1, 2015

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Comments: MP won't let me delete a photo with comments on it.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Upper Division Wall : Pocket Rhythm (5.12c)
By: Spencer Weiler When: Jun 3, 2015

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Comments: Basically every route in AF could be accurately described by the totally "history class boring" style description given here. I vote to impeach and instate Brad's description as the replacement as it is much more creative and interesting to read. While algorithm and pocket debris lack any true crux, you'll know when you're cruxing on this one as your giant hero bucket holds disappear into a strenuous mono/crimp/gaston nightmare, before finally relenting and and a cereal bowl pocket and a pre-col... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Wheeler-Newsome Wall : Strewn Masters of Gore (5.12b) : Photo
By: Spencer Weiler When: Jun 2, 2015

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Comments: 4 bolts, not 3, and they aren't all grouped so close, but the general idea is relayed.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Wheeler-Newsome Wall : Strewn Masters of Gore (5.12b)
By: Spencer Weiler When: Jun 2, 2015

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Comments: Another gem on the Hong wall. I prefer the slab approach versus the roof/tooth version due to better gear(bolt/purple tcu) though both are no fall zones. The giant flake takes a nice #4 camalot before traversing around the corner to the bolts and A small nut and .5 camalot are nice to place before the long exposed reach to the first bolt. After that, its lieback campusing while attempting to smear your feet on small edges. The climbing gets easier the higher you go, and finishes with two g... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : All Chalk And No Action (5.12a)
By: Spencer Weiler When: May 30, 2015

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Comments: I find this incredibly stiff for 12a, though I prefer the steep and juggy over the thin and technical. But compared to the other popular 12a sport route in LCc "cool your Jets" this feels like 12c. One day I'll send it...


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Mule Hollow Wall : Center Face (5.6)
By: Spencer Weiler When: May 14, 2015

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Comments: Great route for the grade. Felt more exposed and consistent than steorts(though the moss detracts from the rock quality) as there aren't as many fat ledges. Medium jugs down low lead to hero buckets up higher.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Mule Hollow Wall
By: Spencer Weiler When: May 14, 2015

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Comments: Walkoff beta: from the top of the main wall(center face, jam crack) descend on the big ledge down towards the gully to the south. Its mostly 3rd class with some bushwacking and loose rock. You should not need to climb up anything significant. Once you enter the gully via some loose sharp rock, you descend down towards to the big pine tree that is the first of the 2 raps(fixed line w/ knots here as of today) but 30 feet above the tree skirt up onto a narrow brushy ledge on the south of the gully ... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Millstone : Millstone Slab (5.4 R)
By: Spencer Weiler When: May 12, 2015

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Comments: Great slab route. I'd give mineral slab 1 star, this 3 stars, and west slabs 4 stars for reference. The rock on this is outstanding, bulletproof and practically no loose rock. This felt slightly less steep than the west slabs, but also much more friction-like. Plenty of good small holds, but not the big jugs like you find on west slabs. There is no pro anywhere, so don't bother bringing a rope. Its definitely in the scramble category rather than the climbing one. Approach shoes are totally fine ... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Mount Olympus : North Summit : Kamp's Ridge (5.6) : Photo
By: Spencer Weiler When: May 4, 2015

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Comments: Fantastic depiction of the ridgeline.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Mount Olympus : South Summit : Geurt's Ridge (5.5)
By: Spencer Weiler When: May 4, 2015

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Comments: Tristan's beta and pics were right on for the downclimbs. I managed to solo downclimb the first rap straight on at about steep 5.7, but no reason to make it harder unless you're a purist. The 5.4 wrap around option is much easier. The 2nd rap has a contrived downclimb to the north that seems more pure, but again, the 4th class downclimb to the south is better/easier. Both raps had anchors in place for those wishing to use the heavy rope.

The lower ridge was pretty contrived and lame, but I gue... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Mount Olympus : North Summit : Kamp's Ridge (5.6)
By: Spencer Weiler When: May 4, 2015

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Comments: Sam and the summitpost directions to access the ridge are ok considering how complex the ridge systems are as seen from below, but I still went up the wrong one. I actually was accessing it from upper Neffs, rather than below, and took a ridge too far south. This is less likely to happen coming from below, but here is my two cents, though my google earth image hopefully is more helpful than a bunch of words.

Climb the drainage all the way to a small saddle, just past the major north face, with... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Membrane : Mandela (5.12a)
By: Spencer Weiler When: May 3, 2015

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Comments: Not the best route at the crag. Could use another bolt between 4-5, but the climbing seemed secure enough in the sharp crack despite early season wet slime. The crux contained no pocket jugs so therefore I flailed.

I wonder if Nelson has sent...


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Membrane : Route 66 (5.12a)
By: Spencer Weiler When: May 3, 2015

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Comments: An t-rex wingspan will have you dynoing sideways between jugs to pull the roof. The no hands rest detracts from the overall quality, but still fun.


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : The Dry Wall : The Pit (5.12c)
By: Spencer Weiler When: Apr 29, 2015

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Comments: The moves off the ground aren't too bad if you skip all the smallish stuff and just lunge to the good pocket. But the double undercling requires some core suckage. Once you reach the breadloaf, its pretty much over.


Location: UT : Saint George : Green Valley Gap : Redneck Wonderland (5.12c)
By: Spencer Weiler When: Apr 23, 2015

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Comments: In a place largely full of what would be one star climbs at most crags, this one gets 3 stars for the gap. Staying left and traversing over back right above the 2nd bolt seems the most natural, less contrived way versus using the crappy crimp and diagnoling across the direct bolt line which gives it the 12c grade, but this variation likely downgrades it to 11d or so, though the chalk indicates most do it the Easier way. Cool honeycomb pockets!


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Kolob Canyon : South Fork of Taylor : Namaste Wall : Photo
By: Spencer Weiler When: Apr 21, 2015

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Comments: Great photo. Should clear up any confusion.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Kolob Canyon : South Fork of Taylor
By: Spencer Weiler When: Apr 21, 2015

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Comments: Ben you are mistaken about the location of twins. You probably didn't see the route between huecos and mitra due to the camo black hangers. For clarification: left to right
Unknown half route- 10+ with 3 bolt 11+ extension
Huecos rancheros 12c
Twins paradox 13a/12-. Black hangers
Dost mitra 11a.
Namaste 12a
Abandoned project with a few bolts and ratty slings in super choss rock
Around corner is a chopped route with a lone drilled angle that leads to an arching crack with anchors


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Kolob Canyon : South Fork of Taylor : Namaste Wall : Huecos Rancheros (5.12c)
By: Spencer Weiler When: Apr 21, 2015

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Comments: Can I get some salsa with these huecos? 35m of 5.10 jug glory with 2 sit down hueco rests gives ample opportunity to enter the crux with zero pump. The guy I climbed with sat there for 10 minutes in hueco 2 before he started up. The crimps are decent and feet are awesome. No way this is 12c. Regarding the loose bolt mentioned previously, it seems fine as the same guy with me whipped on it 3-4 times, though many of the bolt hangers seem a bit loose, consistent with the other climbs. Glue ins woul... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Billboard Trail : The Billboard
By: Spencer Weiler When: Apr 18, 2015

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Comments: Jeremy's directions are spot on. The trail is pretty decent now, not sure what it was like 10 years ago but it's easy to follow now and like brad says, it's maybe 15-20 minutes, not 30-40 like ruckmans suggest. Had no problems finding the crag my first time


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Billboard Trail : The Billboard : Beeline (5.12b)
By: Spencer Weiler When: Apr 18, 2015

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Comments: Bolts 1-2 moves are pretty cruxy, involving a cross through move off 2 mediocre 2 finger pockets, followed by a big throw to a hole that isn't so good either. The pockets also disappear near the top before a short traverse left where crimping is in order. Finding the right sequence through the myriad of sucker pockets and locating feet is the hardest part through the middle. Felt hard on the onsight go.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : China Wall : First Blood (5.11a)
By: Spencer Weiler When: Apr 6, 2015

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Comments: Nice addition to a wall that is lacking in true moderates. Fun warmup


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Optimator : Annunaki (5.11c)
By: Spencer Weiler When: Apr 2, 2015

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Comments: I told my grandma this really cool 12a was as soft as her rice pudding. After she onsighted it she agreed. She said a 95% hand crack with jugs and one required finger lock doesn't make a .12 at the creek. There you have it boys and girls. And she has kinda large hands too(for a grandma)


Location: UT : Saint George : Welcome Springs : The Cathedral : Speaking In Tongues (5.12b)
By: Spencer Weiler When: Mar 28, 2015

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Comments: Pretty fun route, wish i would have done this route 15 years ago. Most of the feet are more polished than my grandpas tuxedo shoes. Too bad the gym setters can't strip this and put up a fresh one.


Location: UT : Saint George : Welcome Springs
By: Spencer Weiler When: Mar 28, 2015

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Comments: It's a bit of a confusing approach for first timers(maybe just me). Pass through a green gate east of the corrals and hike 10 minutes up past many cottonwoods to a 2nd green gate on your right ,ignoring many side roads/paths along the way. After passing through the 2nd gate, hug the fence line on a trail to a doubletrack and then take a left up the next obvious wash after passing a decent sized wall on your right. Sumo wall will be on your left. The wash contours north then west and look for hu... more >>


Location: UT : Saint George : Welcome Springs : The Wailing Wall : Casting Aspersions (5.11b)
By: Spencer Weiler When: Mar 28, 2015

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Comments: Great technical route, opposite of the thuggery in the cathedral. Crux is pulling the small roof after clipping the extended chain on bolt 4, but the upper section with stemming is the puzzler. Textured rock makes for excellent sticky feet(again unlike the cathedral), but a fall is ill advised for your shins' sake. Easiest route on the wailing wall, so i guess it's the warmup.


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