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Member Since: Jun 9, 2008
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
Contact Spencer Weiler


Point Rank: # 287
Total Points: 1,838
Last Year: 328
Last 30 Days: 35
18 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
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Comments are worth 1



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All (766) | Routes (50) | Areas (7) | Photos (202) | Comments (223) | Posts (76) | Stars (198) | Ratings (10)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Lower Buckhorn Wash : Short Stack (5.10d)
By: Spencer Weiler When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Another clue to describe the location of the Chocolate Wall is that it is directly across from Private Pizza Wall.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Private Pizza Wall : Teeter Totter (5.10 X)
By: Spencer Weiler When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Didn't move on me at all. Many a rock has been placed under the pillar to increase stability. Exciting climbing on the first part leads to easy liebacking. Too bad that upper crack wasn't another 100 ft.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Sentinel Spire : Medicine Man (5.12b)
By: Spencer Weiler When: Mar 16, 2014

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Comments: Pitch 1 - fun, juggy climbing (like Johnny Cat) to bomber hand crack.
Pitch 2 - dump all your 0.75s into the bottom section. You won't need them after the 2 bolts. Chimneying is the ticket up below the block. Why you would stop at the 2 pins in an awful, hanging belay instead of going another 15 feet to a good stance is beyond me. The crux is pulling the bulge past the 2 pin anchor, then it's hands to the anchor.
Pitch 3 - reds, man. All reds. Bring at least 5. Save 2 for the final 10 feet past... more >>


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Sentinel Spire
By: Spencer Weiler When: Mar 16, 2014

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Comments: The directions on this page and on the individual route pages to approach the tower via rappelling are crap. The Visitor Center is NOWHERE NEAR the tower. Also, merely stating, "head to the campground rim and rap" is not very accurate either. Here is the correct info:

Head to Book Cliffs Viewpoint, which is accessed via the same road as the campground but not in the campground. From the viewpoint building, follow a NPS trail down and then hike out as close to the tower as you can, 1 minute from... more >>


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Kissing Couple area : Kissing Couple : ... : Photo
By: Spencer Weiler When: Mar 16, 2014

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Comments: This has been replaced by a bolt.


Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : Finger of Fate : Open Book (5.8)
By: Spencer Weiler When: Mar 6, 2014

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Comments: Sorry for my bad description on the last pitch. It seemed obvious when I was there, but I guess we made it harder than it needed to be. Follow these other guys directions


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Bottleneck Peak : Tippin The Botttle (5.11+)
By: Spencer Weiler When: Feb 21, 2014

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Comments: TR from BD employee.

blackdiamondequipment.com/en/employee-favorites-andreas-schm>>>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : The Strip : Virgin River Gorge : Mentor Cave : ... : Photo
By: Spencer Weiler When: Feb 19, 2014

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Comments: Interesting beta. Nice!


Location: UT : Saint George : Snow Canyon State Park : Island In The Sky : Aftershock Wall : Aftershock (5.11b PG13)
By: Spencer Weiler When: Nov 30, 2013

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Comments: Pitch 1 crux is moving into the corner, hard non gym like friction moves. Pitch 2 crux is the bolts right below the hole, super reachy crimp moves. The first bolt off the belay is 15 feet up so beware factor 2. Pitch 3 has hard moves right off the belay with an obvious sequence off thin positive crimps followed by a leftward traverse to 60 ft of 5.7 hero jugs to the belay. Pitch 4 looks good but is total choss. Sandy sandy sandy. Just rap from there. If you want to top out do living instead.

T... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : Wild Things (5.11c)
By: Spencer Weiler When: Nov 10, 2013

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Comments: I can also confirm an approach pitch starting just left of sidewinder is possible.. We did almost a full rope length up dirty cracks to a flake system with good gear that will land you at the belay alcove with bomber chain anchors. I'd rate it 5.8. Also the 5th class mtn goat traverse left to the flakes is pretty trivial though exposed and unprotected.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : Middle Bell Tower : Arm and Hammer (5.11c)
By: Spencer Weiler When: Oct 27, 2013

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Comments: Turnoff is 2.8 miles from N. Bells Trailhead. You should be directly south of the route when leaving the trail.

Did this route today, so do yourself a favor, and bring 3-4 #1 camalots for the curtain. the first 60 feet take only this size minus some rare #2 placements, so bring a couple extra and plug away the stress while you lieback this gem. Maybe the flake is expanding, shrinking, or other's memories are poor, but disregard the earlier posts to bring extra of any size other tha... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Cathedral Mountain : Coke Explosion (5.10)
By: Spencer Weiler When: Sep 29, 2013

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Comments: A fun moderate 5.10 sunny 3 pitch route that's no "Headache" but still fun. The 2nd pitch OW is #6 camalot size, and if you don't bring one its a 12-15 foot run between pieces, though the liebacking is pretty easy, so the #6 is optional. I didn't bring one and it was exciting but fine. A #5 camalot however is pretty necessary to protect the section before the OW. If you don't have a #5 or #6, its more like 25 feet of runout here. The 3rd pitch has an initial section... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Black Magic : Helix (5.12b)
By: Spencer Weiler When: Sep 14, 2013

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Comments: Spectacular. As good a sport route as any I've done, certainly the most unique. Hand jams are everywhere. in the flake, in the hole, in the lieback pockets at the end, then a double toe hook to clip the chains. Francis and Crick would be proud.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Black Magic : Orogeny (5.12a)
By: Spencer Weiler When: Sep 14, 2013

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Comments: Hard 4-5 bolts down low, then once you pull around the corner its more relaxing 5.11-jug pockets.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Black Magic
By: Spencer Weiler When: Sep 14, 2013

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Comments: Having never been to the BM cave till today, I found the directions here to be quite poor as the cave is a considerable distance downcanyon from the .5 mile pullout and the directions here made it sound nearby. Here are some better directions for a low water approach.

Park .3 miles upcanyon of the visitor center rather than .5 at a fairly big pullout on the NORTH side of the road with a huge scree field and powerline. The cave will NOT be visible through thick trees just south of the pullout. ... more >>


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Mount Moran : South Buttress Right, Mt. M... (5.11)
By: Spencer Weiler When: Aug 22, 2013

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Comments: Superb topo and beta:here


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hogum Fork : Thunderbolt Ridge (5.4)
By: Spencer Weiler When: Aug 19, 2013

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Comments: I would highly recommend trying to do this ridge before the snow melts for access issues. It is an endless talus scramble that takes hours from whatever access point you choose, whether from Hogum proper, the traverse from white pine, or up and over the Pfief and Airplane then down. I've tried all 3 and none are any more pleasant than the next. Likely one of the most inaccessible ridge climbs in the Wasatch.


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Mount Moran : CMC Route (5.5)
By: Spencer Weiler When: Aug 19, 2013

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Comments: I understand most parties require/enjoy a 2-3 day trek to safely conquer this peak, but for those interested in doing this light and fast, here's my beta:
-doing this in one day is a cinch if you are in good physical condition. definition of "good": doing Teewinot RT in under 5 hours. start paddling at dawn. earlier if afternoon thunderstorms are likely
-if you are solid on 5th class terrain and feel comfortable soloing routes like upper exum, north ridge of the middle, or flatiron type climbin... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Wasatch Alpine Areas : Pfeifferhorn : North Ridge (5.4 Easy Snow)
By: Spencer Weiler When: Aug 15, 2013

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Comments: Fun summer solo scramble. Just under 3 hours CTC up maybird, down redpine. 3-4 handlines across the east facing slabs and some old webbing tied off a tower down low where a fall would send you on a 300 foot deathdrop to the talus below are very reassuring and make this a 5.4 AO climb. Outside of those sections, its mostly secure with the scariest parts being the loose talus fields up high once you've completed the actual rock climbing.

The official climb starts from Small Pass(low point on Hog... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Bouldering : Cabbage Patch : The Monolith (5.11- V3 R)
By: Spencer Weiler When: Aug 8, 2013

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Comments: Hard for 11-. At least the onsight burn was. Once you dial in the gear and crux bumping to the obvious black knobber I think it feels about mid 11. Gold, .3, red c3. Gear is a bit figidity and anaerobic to place soundly.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Eagle Buttress and Environs : Ultralite Flight (5.11d)
By: Spencer Weiler When: Aug 8, 2013

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Comments: Not quite as bad as Ben makes is seem, but not by much. The rock quality is a bit gritty up high, although has likely cleaned up since '08, but the anchor is pretty bad. Those buttonheads have deteriorated a lot in the past 5 years, as well as the webbing. SIGN THIS ONE UP FOR NEW ANCHOR REPLACEMENT! 3 fixed nuts make the opening 15 foot crux a sport climb. Worthy of a burn or two.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Little Mill Area : Pig Pen (5.12a/b)
By: Spencer Weiler When: Jul 31, 2013

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Comments: Fantastic jug pulling. Super easy for grade. The approach is a killer.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Little Mill Area : Woodstock (5.12c)
By: Spencer Weiler When: Jul 31, 2013

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Comments: As far as I can tell a pseudo-dyno off a miserably bad sidepull is necessary to reach the bucket jug. Mostly good pockets through the rest.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park
By: Spencer Weiler When: Jul 28, 2013

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Comments: Camping: As someone who had never visited Rifle before, I was a bit confused at the camping situation or maybe I'm just an idiot and didn't do my homework. Anyway, for new people, the camping setup is like this:

There is one official "Rifle Falls State Park Campground" that is located a few miles before you get to the actual Rifle Canyon climbing. The sites are highly competitive to get and require a reservation months in advance. See the link below. Water is located here. I as... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Cathedral : Oracle (5.11a)
By: Spencer Weiler When: Jul 18, 2013

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Comments: 11a my arse! bring a bouldering pad for the start cause you aren't going to get gear in till 15 feet up when you can finally get to a stance. The start is devoid of feet and gear is tricky to place and blocks your best finger locks. Punch it to the roundy jug out left and have a .3 handy.


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