Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Strone Crag : Nimbus (5.12a)
By: Spencer Weiler When: 4 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Once you find the hidden buckets the route is pretty straightforward and appropriately graded, but when you're up there slapping at slopey sidepulls and pinches on your onsight attempt, it feels desperate. Tick marks anyone?
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Strone Crag : Le Rap et Tap (5.11b PG13)
By: Spencer Weiler When: 4 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: This is still kinda a weird "sport route" despite the new bolts but standard BCC fanfair. The route's new 1st bolt is still 10 feet off the ground, so at least one, but likely 2 gear placements are needed before you'll feel secure to clip the bolt without decking onto the 5th class slab. Then up high, there is still the old piton to clip which requires venturing off the big ledge for a few moves with your last bolt 20 feet below, so bring gear for that section too. Finally, one bolt and a slung ... more >>
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Perla's Ridge and Environs : Stump the Stars (5.11d)
By: Spencer Weiler When: Jun 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This thing looks kinda easy from the ground, a few finger locks, a reach across with good feet, then bomber hands to the chains. Not really. I was spat off like bad thai food. The crux is by far the top "thin hands" section, ie .75 ringlocks through some overhung terrain. There are no "hand jams" up there unless you're a third grader. Hard for how short it is.
Anchor sling with locker in good condition. The approach directions are excellent. The trail through the boulders to the approach gully... more >>
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Waterfront, The : On the Waterfront (5.12a)
By: Spencer Weiler When: May 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good bolt(not needed, bomber #4 camalot available) protects the start of overhanging hand stacks(invert?) till you hit the undercling horn. Thin hands around the death flake to a good finger lock, then wide #3 camalots to the Captian Ahab belly flop finish. 2 buttonhead bolts for anchor sans chains. We left a few biners but rapping off caused severe twirlybird rope action. Bring some chain if you have it. Pretty burly route as its short but overhangs most of the way. Tape the crap ou... more >>
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Altered States Gully : Sticky Fingers (5.10d)
By: Spencer Weiler When: May 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hope you're enrolled in college cause you're gonna need your campus skills on this one. Whats that you say? A thin finger crack through a small roof, heel hooking a straggling tree, campusing a horizontal .5 camalot crack, clipping ancient pitons in a parallel crack, deftly maneuvering sideways across delicate flakes, to a dirty handcrack finish? Another off the beaten track gem of the wasatch.
A small stump remains of the previous belay tree. Save some gear in the .4 to .75 range or medium n... more >>
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Beer Belly Buttress : Ribbon in the Sky (5.10c)
By: Spencer Weiler When: May 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: chossiest looking anchor I'd seen in the wasatch. That was until I rapped off the anchor ontop of 12 oz curl 5min later.
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Beer Belly Buttress : Six-Pack Crack (5.8)
By: Spencer Weiler When: May 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Best 5.8 quartzite crack ever! a longer easier version of Goodros. Too bad its not accessible. 160' of sweet hands. a double rack in the bigger sizes is nice but nuts and small cam placements can be found on the lower sections. Gear belay off #3 camalots on nice ledge before the top is ideal.
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Beer Belly Buttress
By: Spencer Weiler When: May 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Easy winner for the worst approach in the wasatch. Lone peak is brutal, but at least you're on a trail. This has horrendous schwak, talus, with cairns littering the slopeside leading you astray into depths of hellish no mans land never to return. We took 1.5 hours but we got lost in deep jungle brush and had to attend to our bleeding feet and sprained ankles along the way. The rock is good, but not that good. Recommend heading up there only if you have climbed at every other crag in the wasatch ... more >>
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Thumb Area : S-Crack (5.12a)
By: Spencer Weiler When: Apr 26, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pitch 1- 5.6 hands that can easily be soloed if your solid. Belay on slung trees next to coyne crack or up through more bushes to base of chimney.
Pitch 2- although it isn't your standard chimney like you'd find in the desert, the only reasonable way to climb it is indeed chimney style. Bring your #6 camalot and walk it up the crack with you, using good edges along the way. Squeeze into the chimney when you reach the hero jugs, and climb easy face climbing to bolted anchor. (climbing the c... more >>
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Moses : Primrose Dihedrals (5.11+)
By: Spencer Weiler When: Apr 24, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Disagree with Alex's comments and agree with mark's: the rap from top of the ear(5) to top of pitch 4 is too overhung to get there in a single rope rap. You'll end up in space with nowhere to go. Best to just bring that 2nd rope if you are concerned about not getting up it.
|
Location: International : North America : Canada : Northwest Territories : The Cirque of the Unclimbab... : ... : Southeast Face (5.11-)
By: Spencer Weiler When: Apr 17, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: home.comcast.net/~gibell/cirque/LotusFlowerTowerSmiley.pdf
|
Location: ID : City of Rocks : Building Blocks : Buiding Blocks - West : Vise Grips (5.11+)
By: Spencer Weiler When: Mar 25, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: cool picture and a bit of info on route
issuu.com/rock-and-ice/docs/208-s/59
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Dragon Arch : Gimme Danger (5.10+)
By: Spencer Weiler When: Mar 17, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pitch 2 was really fun. Unintentionally avoided first pitch by rappelling to the base of 2nd via Enter the Dragon's anchors. Bolt spacing was perfect and crux came inbetween bolts 2 and 3 around bulge. Much more fun than Split Fingers because of better pro and I could actually climb it.
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Dragon Arch : Enter the Dragon (5.11-)
By: Spencer Weiler When: Mar 17, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really great route, very fun with many short crux sections followed by no hands rests. A #4 camalot protects the initial fist crack section, though you can bury a #3 camalot in the back as well. Am I missing something, or is the first crux bulge where Shingo suggests small Peenuts or tcus for pro now protected by a bomber bolt? I was happy it was there for sure. I did not place anything smaller than a blue tcu on this pitch. The exit moves past the horn before the anchor are awesome!... more >>
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Cactus Flower Tower : Cactus Flower Tower summit : The Warrior (5.11a)
By: Spencer Weiler When: Feb 19, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: There a different kinds of approaches for the classics of RR. There are long ones(Rainbow Wall), confusing or complicated ones(levitation), strenuous but straightforward ones(Cloud Tower), and then there are approaches where you arrive at the climb so exhausted from such heinous schwaking and mandatory 5th class groveling up chimneys and moss slabs it seems like a 5 pitch extension of the climb itself(Warrior).
Heads up there is a bolted rap anchor climbers left of the initial chimney up over ... more >>
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Challenger Wall : Adventure Punks (5.10d)
By: Spencer Weiler When: Feb 17, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is not a Urioste route. Much more in your face than your standard 5.10 affair at RR.
Pitch 1-people exaggerate the initial move off the deck. You can reach the solid edge without doing any slab moves, then mantle and its done. Its only 15 feet up on a slab, not 35. Don't bother with the traverse beta from the left. Really fun flakes follow.
Pitch 2-The initial 15 feet are the crux, but gear is there though creative. The last 20 feet all I could get was a purple tcu and green c3, so it fel... more >>
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : North Six Shooter Peak : Liquid Sky (5.11+)
By: Spencer Weiler When: Dec 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: good thread on additional beta
mountainproject.com/v/liquid-sky/106739796__1
|
Location: UT : Zion National Park : The Confluence : Crimson King (5.11)
By: Spencer Weiler When: Nov 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: No offense to the poster, but I hate it when people say "lots of cams". What does that mean? 4 of each size? 10? This is the desert. Quantity matters. Here is my suggestion for this one:
1 green c3
2 red c3
4-5 .3 camalot
3-4 .4 camalot
3-4 .5 camalot
This thing is thin the whole way, so make sure you have at least one .3, one red c3, and one .5 for the top section where it angles right after the good rest.
|
Location: UT : Zion National Park : The Confluence : Smashmouth (5.11a)
By: Spencer Weiler When: Nov 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Approach beta: The directions to this climb here or on the main confluence page seem nonexistent. From the turnout at the last switchback before the tunnel, hike west on a good trail for 10 or so minutes until the wall turns from north to west facing. Hike another 10 minutes along the wall's base past the gorgeous thin splitter "Crimson King", trending down till you can see the dark face with the splitter with a roof above it . The pictures posted here are very helpful. You can see the visitor c... more >>
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : The Three Penguins
By: Spencer Weiler When: Nov 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Park at turnout on left side of road after the last switchback just past a 15mph sign facing downcanyon, only 1-2 miles from the visitor center. Try to find the most used trail or stay on slickrock till reaching the ledge system that takes you right over. 5-10 min approach.
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : The Three Penguins : Right Chimney (5.10+)
By: Spencer Weiler When: Nov 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route. Enjoyed having 3 #3 camalots on pitch 1, and don't leave the ground without a #5 camalot or you will regret it for pitch 2. The spicy move onto the summit isn't bad at all, just grab the chains and pull yourself up! The tower is short, so 1 70m rope will get you down in one rap.
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : The Three Gossips : West Face (5.11)
By: Spencer Weiler When: Nov 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pitch 1-Great hands for the majority of it. Use your #2 camalots wisely. Save 1 #3 camalot for top bulge, and optional #4/#5 camalot for over roof although I found it inhibits your hand/fist stacks. Even yarding through that section seemed hard. No face holds to speak of.
Pitch 2-Starts off with hands, narrows to thin hands. You can use all your .75/#1 camalots here as you won't need them later. Another tough OW bulge protects with #4 camalot, or use uber thi... more >>
|
Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Ariana (5.12a)
By: Spencer Weiler When: Oct 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments:
|
Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : The Strip : Virgin River Gorge
By: Spencer Weiler When: Oct 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: If coming from south, there is a huge dirt road pullout right after mile marker 13 on the right side that you can park at rather than doing the loop around if you prefer.
|
Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : The Strip : Virgin River Gorge : Sun Cave
By: Spencer Weiler When: Oct 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tyrolean still in place.
|
RSS Feed
