Point Rank: # 1,966
Total Points: 84
Last Year: 1
Last 30 Days: 0
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| Areas are worth 15 |
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Where has spanky been climbing?
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Contributions
| All (26) | Routes (4) | Areas (2) | Photos | Comments (14) | Posts | Stars (6) | Ratings | | Page 1 of 2. 1 2 Next> |
Contributed Routes |
| Name |
Rating |
Type |
Location |
Useful To |
Date |
Ground Fall Interceptor (GFI) (FA) | 5.11a | Trad, 2 pitches, 260 feet | CO : Lumpy Ridge : Lightning Rock | | Aug 1, 2004 |
Power Shortage (FA) | 5.9+ | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet | CO : Lumpy Ridge : Lightning Rock | | May 1, 2004 |
Spanky Goes to Hollywood (FA) | 5.8 | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet | CO : Lyons : ... : Swift Rock | | Mar 1, 2003 |
Blue Swift (FA) | 5.9+ R | Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet | CO : Lyons : ... : Swift Rock | | Mar 1, 2003 |
Contributed Comments | | |
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : Southern Cross (5.11b)
By: spanky When: Sep 9, 2008 | view comment >> | Comments: Wow, I'm very surprised to see Brent's comment from three years ago recently posted on here. Not sure how/why it recently showed up. Well, his (and Thad's?) post requests a response from me, so here goes....
Brent posted his comment three years ago when I originally had placed two bolts in the lower face. After a few attempts on the route, I decided it was above my head at the time and returned the following summer to remove the two bolts. The holes were patched with epoxy and rock dust and... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : Blood Feud (5.12c)
By: spanky When: Sep 11, 2005 | view comment >> | Comments: ac-
I'd like to take issue with your comments that my previous two messages were "unsupported".
1. Since I happen to know the location of the aid climbing on Wide Guage, when I responded to Eli's question regarding how the route could ever possibly have been A3, how could my answer be considered "unsupported"?....
[Eds. 10/14/5 we apologize for the moderating; however, threats of litigation regarding libel against this site & its administrators have threatened the very existence of... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : Isis Buttress : King Tut (5.11b)
By: spanky When: Jun 11, 2005 | view comment >> | Comments: Calling this an independent line is a joke. Using the rationale explained above, I could claim any number of independent lines just because I chose not to use obvious features on the cliff. Just think how many new FAs I could get on the Left Book! I could squeeze a line between White Whale and Hiatus (might need some bolts, got any ASCA hangers left...?), there's definitely a line between White Whale and The Dog, and, man, what an exciting traverse pitch it would be if you just called the wal... more >>
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Location: CO : Lyons : South Saint Vrain Canyon : Swift Rock
By: spanky When: May 5, 2005 | view comment >> | Comments: [Matt],
I have a better idea. Why doesn't [Alvino] (I'm assuming that's the perpetrator of the bolt "dolt" job, or maybe it's his son, Tam) go up there with a hacksaw and saw off the eyes of both offending pins. That way, the character of the previous ascents isn't changed by any additional fixed pro and no one gets an enlarged fingerlock. Wait, I've got a better idea: how about we just don't enlarge the crack to accept two pins. Damn, I forgot, we don't have that choice anymore.
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Location: CO : Lyons : South Saint Vrain Canyon : Swift Rock
By: spanky When: Apr 18, 2005 | view comment >> | Comments: [Bruce],
Since when do climbers search for a bolted face line first and ignore an obvious natural line? Talk about screwed-up priorities. If the bolt climb was established on rappel, as I'm sure it was, then the climbers were sure to find our rap slings around the big tree up top as evidence of previous ascentionists. With their being no bolts already on the crag, it doesn't take [Sherlock Holmes] to deduce what line or lines had probably already been climbed on the cliff. And, even without... more >>
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Location: CO : Lyons : South Saint Vrain Canyon : Swift Rock
By: spanky When: Apr 17, 2005 | view comment >> | Comments: I don't know the exact location of the bolted route to which you are referring, but if it's the one that goes straight up the middle of the rock, past the prominent diagonaling crack, I hope it hasn't been finished.
[Marc Hemmes] and I put up the first two routes on {Swift Rock] in spring, 2003. One of these is that diagonaling crack, which goes at 9+ R with a pretty good little runout at the end. The crack protects with tiny wires and TCUs/Aliens. I had already heard that a bolted route wa... more >>
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Location: CO : Lyons : South Saint Vrain Canyon : Left Infirmary Slab : Hamburger (5.10)
By: spanky When: Apr 10, 2005 | view comment >> | Comments: i did this roof crack with [Marc Hemmes] about two years ago and i think we decided on a rating of "hard" 10+. don't know if [Marc] or i were the party mentioned to have climbed this and given it the consensus rating of 10d. anyway, it's pretty fun and feels longer than it actually is. cool moves exiting the roof onto the slab.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Palisade Mountain : Nancy's Rock : Dyne-"E"-Mite (5.9 R)
By: spanky When: Apr 10, 2005 | view comment >> | Comments: [Allen],
i agree with you that a 40-50 foot fall just before clipping your route's anchors would probably produce serious bodily injury. and mentioning in the route description the 25-foot runout on 5.4 climbing above the last bolt is certainly justifiable, although most guidebooks wouldn't mention it. that's not what i was taking issue with.
the "r" rating you gave your climb is not justifiable since the runout is on climbing that is significantly easier than the route's overall difficult... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Palisade Mountain : Nancy's Rock : Dyne-"E"-Mite (5.9 R)
By: spanky When: Mar 29, 2005 | view comment >> | Comments: are you kidding me? a 5.9 route can get an "r" rating nowadays just for involving 5.4 climbing a ways above a fatty bolt? damn, i guess i've been doing way scary, gnarly routes for years now. anybody know [Mark Wilford's] phone number? i'm going to have to find a partner equal to my newly-acquired legendary status.
seriously though, you're not serious are you? maybe if you drove a bit further up the [Big Thompson Canyon] to some real climbing around [Estes] you might get an idea what an "r... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Fantasy Ridge (5.9 R)
By: spanky When: Apr 19, 2004 | view comment >> | Comments: [Casey],
No, I don't think that's what defines an "r" rated climb. Let me give you an example, using bolted climbs for an analogy. You can do any number of bolted clip-ups now strewn across the Front Range, at Clear Creek, Boulder Canyon, Golden Cliffs, etc., and you're going to find bolts 5-6 feet apart on the majority. On most of these routes, you can fall (or hang on the rope) at any bolt you'd like. In contrast, [Climb of the Ancient Mariner at Lumpy] has bolts fifteen feet apart on the... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Fantasy Ridge (5.9 R)
By: spanky When: Apr 17, 2004 | view comment >> | Comments: AC, I read your comment and I agree that people should not be scared off of trying [Fantasy Ridge] because it is a fine route. I was just wondering about your statement that [Fantasy Ridge] is "quite safe for people climbing at that grade". How then do you justify giving it a "PG-13" rating? Aren't you contradicting yourself? Can't any climb receive an "r" or even "x" rating if you aren't capable of climbing at its level? By your analogy [Sphinx Crack] should receive an "x" rating because I... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Fantasy Ridge (5.9 R)
By: spanky When: Apr 15, 2004 | view comment >> | Comments: I just looked up [Fantasy Ridge] on this site (I find it a bit humorous that there is this much beta information on a website for a route that has been in print in at least a dozen different guidebooks and is pretty much a straight shot along the ridge to the summit of the [Bookmark]. Of course, that would bring into question some of the validity of this website, so I'll leave that question alone) . Anyway, I was astonished to see that someone had suggested that the third pitch should receive a... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Tagger (5.10b/c)
By: spanky When: Mar 1, 2004 | view comment >> | Comments: on pitch 2 roof, has anyone else done what i did and just underclinged the whole thing? the holds under the roof just seemed too far to the right to be of any use. i must say that doing it this way the roof didn't seem to be any harder than its given rating.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Verschneidung ... : Allosaur (5.9 R)
By: spanky When: Feb 17, 2004 | view comment >> | Comments: I just climbed [Allosaur] for the first time and, although I think it is a great route, I think the seriousness ratings (or lack thereof) for the first, second, and third pitches are fairly questionable.
The first pitch, in my mind, does not merit a serious rating. My partner placed gear at least every ten feet, if not closer, and the dubious, upward-driven pin at twenty feet can be backed up by a bomber piece just a few feet below. The crux section after this pin is only a couple of moves un... more >>
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