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Member Since: Jul 20, 2008
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 699
Total Points: 848
Last Year: 252
Last 30 Days: 2
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Areas are worth 15
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Contributions


All (761) | Routes (78) | Areas (3) | Photos | Comments (23) | Posts (117) | Stars (307) | Ratings (233)

Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Echo Canyon : Choss Cave : Traverse (5.12d)
By: SMR When: 4 days ago

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Comments: There are numerous links and traverses that have been completed over the years. The main one went was what I described into cowbelly, but people have also linked into other climbs.

Some people like to link climbs to build up there 8a scorecard so there a numerous variations up there.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : The Strip : Lime Kiln : Homo Faber (5.12d)
By: SMR When: Mar 26, 2014

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Comments: I would give a vote for low 13a for this one. Mainly because I found the moves through the crux to be a tad long (I am 5'1"). Maybe I just needed to get my feet higher...
I could see 12d though.

Also, using mid-anchors, a 70m rope works. I tried to get to the ground with my 70M and was about 20ft up...


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Middle Fork : The Matrix : Sound the Klaxon (5.10b)
By: SMR When: Sep 25, 2013

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Comments: There is a new extension added to this climb. Lobsterian, 5.11b or c. FA: L. Rumanes.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Bingo Baby : Ivy Mike (5.12d)
By: SMR When: Jul 24, 2013

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Comments: There are anchors on this route. This was the first time on the route but it looks like the anchors are above 9 so the ending continues to be funky.


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : The Dry Wall : JJ Memorial (5.13b)
By: SMR When: Jul 18, 2013

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Comments: Who is the FA then?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : Solar Cave : Solar Power (5.12c)
By: SMR When: May 8, 2013

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Comments: Justin- I agree with you that it seems soft for 12c.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Grey Cliffs Picnic Area : The Shame Wall : All Men Are Mortal (5.12c)
By: SMR When: Apr 23, 2013

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Comments: Darren
Although, I think AMAM is 12a I would not put someone breaking into 12a on this climb. There are other climbs more suitable.

Too Young to be Human- I am short (5'1") so I thought it was closer to 12b. Comparing it to other climbs in the 12a range, it was a harder redpoint for me than Liquid 0, Naked Nebulus, Pig Pen, Isotoaner Moaner, Pocket Debris, Mandala and Step Right Up. And I found it a harder than Beeline (is this still considered a 12b at Billboard??). However, there are some... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon
By: SMR When: Apr 22, 2013

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Comments: Climbed there 2 weeks ago- it was good.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Grey Cliffs Picnic Area : The Shame Wall : All Men Are Mortal (5.12c)
By: SMR When: Apr 22, 2013

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Comments: If I recall (I have not been up there since 2011) it was the middle line. The only reason I commented is that the first 2 times on it I thought it was really hard and then I found this small dirty/mossy hold and cleaned it off. It might be hard to believe, but this one hold made the crux about v2-v3 ish instead of v4ish for me and 12a made sense.

Anyways, I wish the fit logic worked but I am pretty average.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Grey Cliffs Picnic Area : The Grey Cliffs : Snaked From New York (5.13b)
By: SMR When: Apr 19, 2013

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Comments: The really hard to clip bolt was retro bolted- Still hard but a much better placement.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Grey Cliffs Picnic Area : The Shame Wall : All Men Are Mortal (5.12c)
By: SMR When: Apr 19, 2013

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Comments: Brian- Bill Boyle left an undone 12c and trent Baker put in another climb by AMAM that is 12c-ish. Maybe you are mistaking the lines?? . All men felt 12a to me. If I recall there is a dirty pocket that is hard to see that make the crux a v grade easier. And after pulling the crux I was able to get a really good rest so it did not have an endurance factor. Ymmv .....


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : Blacksmith Fork Canyon
By: SMR When: Apr 15, 2013

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Comments: The National Forest Service closes a gate to the canyon for part of the year. It usually opens up in May.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : The Pipe Dream : Solstice (5.11c)
By: SMR When: Dec 30, 2012

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Comments: A key hold broke on this climb in 2011, so it feels harder than 11c ESP compared to the other 11s.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : Blacksmith Fork Canyon : Left Hand Fork : ... : Hell Bound (5.13a)
By: SMR When: Oct 15, 2012

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Comments: The N. Utah Guidebook incorrectly shows the order of these 2 routes at Blacksmith.
The farthest left route is Hellbound and the 2nd route is Groover.
If you look at the routes, Groover climbs into a groove/mini-dihedral.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Middle Fork : The Matrix : Twelve Tasty Donuts (5.10c)
By: SMR When: Oct 9, 2012

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Comments: There is a new extension bolted by B.Ohran. Called the 13th Donut, 12a.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : Cragganmore : Popcorn (5.12c)
By: SMR When: Oct 8, 2012

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Comments: Graded 12b in the new guides. Easy tick for the grade due to kneebar rests that have been discovered over the years.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : Blacksmith Fork Canyon : Left Hand Fork : ... : Unknown Name (5.12a)
By: SMR When: Oct 2, 2012

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Comments: For those who enjoy link ups, here is another one

Stampede: 12a / FA: Clay Cahoon

Start on the 12a unknown (bolted by C.Zurinfkas) and then joins Shirley Stoned.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : Cragganmore : Sweet Peas (5.12b)
By: SMR When: Sep 27, 2012

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Comments: Grading might be height dependent. If shorter (I am 5'1") the crux at the top is reachy and much harder than any other 11d I have done. So I agree with 12a.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : Blacksmith Fork Canyon : Left Hand Fork : ... : Clear For Take-Off (5.12c)
By: SMR When: Sep 26, 2012

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Comments: I think this is one of the best climbs at the wall. One spicy clip, but worth it.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : Blacksmith Fork Canyon : Left Hand Fork : ... : Rain Dance (5.12a/b)
By: SMR When: Sep 26, 2012

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Comments: I agree that this is definitely harder than CT. Rain dancer may be height dependent (I am shorter so thought the span 1/2 way up was big.
CT seemed to be a soft 12a on a horrible condition day, but could bump to 11d if prime conditions.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : The Compound
By: SMR When: Aug 27, 2012

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Comments: #6 on the topo link is called Death from Above. It climbs straight up and links into Nine-11 and finishes on those anchors.Neptune Spear was bolted in 2011 and is immediately left of Death from above.
Neptune spear finishes on Gun Tower. For fun, you can take Neptune Spear & finish on Nine-11.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Left Fork : The Pipeline : Honey Bucket (5.12a)
By: SMR When: Aug 27, 2012

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Comments: As the other 2 said, this is really soft- closer to 11b/c than 12a.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : The Compound : 3-2-1 (5.13a)
By: SMR When: Aug 12, 2012

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Comments: The grade is dependent on how you climb the top moves. If you power straight up through the last 2 bolts, it probably puts it at 13a. However, there is a large jug far right of the sandy ledge rest (2nd to last bolt) that people started using in 2012. This variation (detour) decreases the difficulty (12d).