Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED


Member Since: Jul 20, 2008
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
Contact SMR

Point Rank: # 750
Total Points: 940
Last Year: 97
Last 30 Days: 2
0 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has SMR been climbing?










Contributions


All 913 | Routes 86 | Areas 3 | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 35 | Posts 174 | Stars 352 | Ratings 263
Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : The Damascus Gate : Welcome Back Cobble (5.12d)
By: SMR When: Aug 25, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I am not surprised this might be 12c now. When Robert and I sent it, it took some time to find the holds and it was pretty chossy, but Maple climbs get easier 95% of the time - holds get more solid, bigger from brushing, ticks, chalk... etc.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Box Canyon : The Arch : The Only Religion (5.13c)
By: SMR When: Aug 17, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This was an undone project bolted 15 or so years ago.
I believe it is listed as a project in Darren's guide.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Windshield Wiper Wall : The Windshield Wiper (5.12a)
By: SMR When: Jul 31, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: D.A. - if bolts are bad, I would recommend you contact SLCA. They try to put effort into getting bolts replaced etc.
Could a wrench be used to re-tighten them?


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Windshield Wiper Wall : Whiskey on the Southbound (5.12a)
By: SMR When: Jul 16, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: In my experience, routes will likely get easier at MC overtime. It could be 11d now that holds have chalk, they are clean and not covered in sand, they are solid so the pucker factor is greatly reduced. People go off the bolt-line to find an easier sequence.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : The Compound : Neptune's Spear (5.13b)
By: SMR When: Jul 13, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: FYI- To stay true to the theme of the compound, the name of route, Neptune Spear, refers to operation that killed OBL.


Location: UT : Stansbury Mountains : South Willow Canyon - Narro... : Narrows - North : ATV (5.13b)
By: SMR When: Mar 18, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Not sure about the bolt. Maybe it was moved since 2008 when I RPed it. I just added it as a tick last year since it was a new route on MP. A double draw solved the issue for me than since I could clip one move lower (but I am 5'1" so someone taller could use this hold normally).

This route supposedly went at 13c originally. I guess it is getting easier.


Location: UT : Stansbury Mountains : South Willow Canyon - Narro... : Narrows - South : Walk the Plank (5.11b)
By: SMR When: Sep 8, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I think the FA is Martin Benzins apx. 2002.


Location: UT : Stansbury Mountains : South Willow Canyon - Narro... : Narrows - North : ATV (5.13b)
By: SMR When: Aug 21, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: A change of bolt location would be a good idea. When working this route, I took the fall once and with an attentive belayer it was OK, but I used a double draw to avoid that fall again.


Location: UT : Stansbury Mountains : South Willow Canyon - Narro... : Narrows - North
By: SMR When: Jul 7, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I don't know if this is all correct, but I think a lot of the info at rockcilmbing.com is incorrect. Here are routes on the river side. This was current in 2010 so I don't have new routes if any have gone in.

10b- Rivers edge. This route is on the river side, most upstream. In higher water conditions, you may need to approach the start by hopping boulders or with a well-placed log. It is a nice warm up which follows the arÍte. Donít go right at the top. FA- Matt Merton and B. Loth
5.11- un... more >>


Location: UT : Stansbury Mountains : South Willow Canyon - Narro... : Narrows - North : Black Sails (5.12b)
By: SMR When: Jul 7, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The 12c I am talking about went in about 15 years ago. So it must be to the left or right of this one since it is a new line.

They have it listed as the mountain route at rockclimbing.com, but I think it is mountaineer route. If I recall this route has a bulge in the middle, then a slab section and hard crux at the last 2 bolts.


Location: UT : Stansbury Mountains : South Willow Canyon - Narro... : Narrows - North : Teflon Guerrilla (5.12a)
By: SMR When: Jul 7, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I don't think this is Dirt.
The name I have is Bitch put up by Bill Boyle.
I tried to collect info from different sites and this is what I have (from Dr. topo, supertopo etc) in about 2010. New routes would not be included.
Road side - from left to right
11c- Name unknown. This is the most up canyon route on the road side. In 2009, there was a sling on this route.
13b- ATV. This route pulls a series of bulges via crimps and tiny crimps to the Ĺ way mark. After a brief rest, continue to to... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Billboard Trail : The Billboard : Bubba Gump (5.10b)
By: SMR When: Jun 17, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: FA: Dave Bradd 2001


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Billboard Trail : The Billboard : Unknown (5.10c/d)
By: SMR When: Jun 17, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I think the FA: Dave Bradd 2001, but I don't recall the name.


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : Mill Canyon : Choss Cave : Traverse (5.12d)
By: SMR When: Apr 12, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: There are numerous links and traverses that have been completed over the years. The main one went as I described into cowbelly, but people have also linked into other climbs.

Some people like to link climbs to build up there 8a scorecard so there a numerous variations up there.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : The Arizona Strip : Lime Kiln : Homo Faber (5.12d)
By: SMR When: Mar 26, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I would give a vote for low 13a for this one. Mainly because I found the moves through the crux to be a tad long (I am 5'1"). Maybe I just needed to get my feet higher...
I could see 12d though.

Also, using mid-anchors, a 70m rope works. I tried to get to the ground with my 70M and was about 20ft up...


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Middle Fork : The Matrix : Sound the Klaxon (5.10b)
By: SMR When: Sep 25, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: There is a new extension added to this climb. Lobsterian, 5.11b or c. FA: L. Rumanes.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Bingo Baby : Ivy Mike (5.12d)
By: SMR When: Jul 24, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: There are anchors on this route. This was the first time on the route but it looks like the anchors are above 9 so the ending continues to be funky.


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : The Dry Wall : JJ Memorial (5.13b)
By: SMR When: Jul 18, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Who is the FA then?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : Solar Cave : Solar Power (5.12c)
By: SMR When: May 8, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Justin- I agree with you that it seems soft for 12c.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Grey Cliffs Picnic Area : The Shame Wall : All Men Are Mortal (5.12c)
By: SMR When: Apr 23, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Darren
Although, I think AMAM is 12a I would not put someone breaking into 12a on this climb. There are other climbs more suitable.

Too Young to be Human- I am short (5'1") so I thought it was closer to 12b. Comparing it to other climbs in the 12a range, it was a harder redpoint for me than Liquid 0, Naked Nebulus, Pig Pen, Isotoaner Moaner, Pocket Debris, Mandala and Step Right Up. And I found it a harder than Beeline (is this still considered a 12b at Billboard??). However, there are some... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon
By: SMR When: Apr 22, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Climbed there 2 weeks ago- it was good.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Grey Cliffs Picnic Area : The Shame Wall : All Men Are Mortal (5.12c)
By: SMR When: Apr 22, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: If I recall (I have not been up there since 2011) it was the middle line. The only reason I commented is that the first 2 times on it I thought it was really hard and then I found this small dirty/mossy hold and cleaned it off. It might be hard to believe, but this one hold made the crux about v2-v3 ish instead of v4ish for me and 12a made sense.

Anyways, I wish the fit logic worked but I am pretty average.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Grey Cliffs Picnic Area : The Grey Cliffs : Snaked From New York (5.13b)
By: SMR When: Apr 19, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: The really hard to clip bolt was retro bolted- Still hard but a much better placement.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Grey Cliffs Picnic Area : The Shame Wall : All Men Are Mortal (5.12c)
By: SMR When: Apr 19, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Brian- Bill Boyle left an undone 12c and trent Baker put in another climb by AMAM that is 12c-ish. Maybe you are mistaking the lines?? . All men felt 12a to me. If I recall there is a dirty pocket that is hard to see that make the crux a v grade easier. And after pulling the crux I was able to get a really good rest so it did not have an endurance factor. Ymmv .....


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : Blacksmith Fork Canyon
By: SMR When: Apr 15, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: The National Forest Service closes a gate to the canyon for part of the year. It usually opens up in May.


Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!