Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED


Member Since: Jul 20, 2008
Last Visit: 20 hours ago
Contact SMR


Point Rank: # 728
Total Points: 854
Last Year: 11
Last 30 Days: 4
0 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has SMR been climbing?










Contributions


All 801 | Routes 78 | Areas 3 | Photos | Page Improvments | Comments 29 | Posts 138 | Stars 313 | Ratings 240
Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Stansbury Mountains : South Willow Canyon - Narro... : Narrows - North
By: SMR When: Jul 7, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I don't know if this is all correct, but I think a lot of the info at rockcilmbing.com is incorrect. Here are routes on the river side. This was current in 2010 so I don't have new routes if any have gone in.

10b- Rivers edge. This route is on the river side, most upstream. In higher water conditions, you may need to approach the start by hopping boulders or with a well-placed log. It is a nice warm up which follows the arÍte. Donít go right at the top. FA- Matt Merton and B. Loth
5.11- un... more >>


Location: UT : Stansbury Mountains : South Willow Canyon - Narro... : Narrows - North : Black Sails (5.12b)
By: SMR When: Jul 7, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The 12c I am talking about went in about 15 years ago. So it must be to the left or right of this one since it is a new line.

They have it listed as the mountain route at Rockclimbing.com, but I think it is mountaineer route. If I recall this route has a bulge in the middle, then a slab section and hard crux at the last 2 bolts.


Location: UT : Stansbury Mountains : South Willow Canyon - Narro... : Narrows - North : Bitch (5.12a)
By: SMR When: Jul 7, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I don't think this is Dirt.
The name I have is Bitch put up by Bill Boyle.
I tried to collect info from different sites and this is what I have (from Dr. topo, supertopo etc) in about 2010. New routes would not be included.
Road side - from left to right
11c- Name unknown. This is the most up canyon route on the road side. In 2009, there was a sling on this route.
13b- ATV. This route pulls a series of bulges via crimps and tiny crimps to the Ĺ way mark. After a brief rest, continue to to... more >>


Location: UT : Stansbury Mountains : South Willow Canyon - Narro... : Narrows - North : Black Sails (5.12b)
By: SMR When: Jul 7, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I don't think you have the right beta. I thought this climb was called Mountaineer route.

The info I have is that Dust and Dirt have the same start. They are not independent lines.



Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Billboard Trail : The Billboard : Bubba Gump (5.10b)
By: SMR When: Jun 17, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: FA: Dave Bradd 2001


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Billboard Trail : The Billboard : Unknown (5.10c/d)
By: SMR When: Jun 17, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I think the FA: Dave Bradd 2001, but I don't recall the name.


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : Choss Cave : Traverse (5.12d)
By: SMR When: Apr 12, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: There are numerous links and traverses that have been completed over the years. The main one went as I described into cowbelly, but people have also linked into other climbs.

Some people like to link climbs to build up there 8a scorecard so there a numerous variations up there.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : The Strip : Lime Kiln : Homo Faber (5.12d)
By: SMR When: Mar 26, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I would give a vote for low 13a for this one. Mainly because I found the moves through the crux to be a tad long (I am 5'1"). Maybe I just needed to get my feet higher...
I could see 12d though.

Also, using mid-anchors, a 70m rope works. I tried to get to the ground with my 70M and was about 20ft up...


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Middle Fork : The Matrix : Sound the Klaxon (5.10b)
By: SMR When: Sep 25, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: There is a new extension added to this climb. Lobsterian, 5.11b or c. FA: L. Rumanes.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Bingo Baby : Ivy Mike (5.12d)
By: SMR When: Jul 24, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: There are anchors on this route. This was the first time on the route but it looks like the anchors are above 9 so the ending continues to be funky.


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : The Dry Wall : JJ Memorial (5.13b)
By: SMR When: Jul 18, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Who is the FA then?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : Solar Cave : Solar Power (5.12c)
By: SMR When: May 8, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Justin- I agree with you that it seems soft for 12c.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Grey Cliffs Picnic Area : The Shame Wall : All Men Are Mortal (5.12c)
By: SMR When: Apr 23, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Darren
Although, I think AMAM is 12a I would not put someone breaking into 12a on this climb. There are other climbs more suitable.

Too Young to be Human- I am short (5'1") so I thought it was closer to 12b. Comparing it to other climbs in the 12a range, it was a harder redpoint for me than Liquid 0, Naked Nebulus, Pig Pen, Isotoaner Moaner, Pocket Debris, Mandala and Step Right Up. And I found it a harder than Beeline (is this still considered a 12b at Billboard??). However, there are some... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon
By: SMR When: Apr 22, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Climbed there 2 weeks ago- it was good.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Grey Cliffs Picnic Area : The Shame Wall : All Men Are Mortal (5.12c)
By: SMR When: Apr 22, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: If I recall (I have not been up there since 2011) it was the middle line. The only reason I commented is that the first 2 times on it I thought it was really hard and then I found this small dirty/mossy hold and cleaned it off. It might be hard to believe, but this one hold made the crux about v2-v3 ish instead of v4ish for me and 12a made sense.

Anyways, I wish the fit logic worked but I am pretty average.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Grey Cliffs Picnic Area : The Grey Cliffs : Snaked From New York (5.13b)
By: SMR When: Apr 19, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: The really hard to clip bolt was retro bolted- Still hard but a much better placement.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Grey Cliffs Picnic Area : The Shame Wall : All Men Are Mortal (5.12c)
By: SMR When: Apr 19, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Brian- Bill Boyle left an undone 12c and trent Baker put in another climb by AMAM that is 12c-ish. Maybe you are mistaking the lines?? . All men felt 12a to me. If I recall there is a dirty pocket that is hard to see that make the crux a v grade easier. And after pulling the crux I was able to get a really good rest so it did not have an endurance factor. Ymmv .....


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : Blacksmith Fork Canyon
By: SMR When: Apr 15, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: The National Forest Service closes a gate to the canyon for part of the year. It usually opens up in May.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : The Pipe Dream : Solstice (5.11c)
By: SMR When: Dec 30, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: A key hold broke on this climb in 2011, so it feels harder than 11c ESP compared to the other 11s.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : Blacksmith Fork Canyon : Left Hand Fork : ... : Hell Bound (5.13a)
By: SMR When: Oct 15, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: The N. Utah Guidebook incorrectly shows the order of these 2 routes at Blacksmith.
The farthest left route is Hellbound and the 2nd route is Groover.
If you look at the routes, Groover climbs into a groove/mini-dihedral.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Middle Fork : The Matrix : Twelve Tasty Donuts (5.10c)
By: SMR When: Oct 9, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: There is a new extension bolted by B.Ohran. Called the 13th Donut, 12a.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : Cragganmore : Popcorn (5.12c)
By: SMR When: Oct 8, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Graded 12b in the new guides. Easy tick for the grade due to kneebar rests that have been discovered over the years.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : Blacksmith Fork Canyon : Left Hand Fork : ... : Unknown Name (5.12a)
By: SMR When: Oct 2, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: For those who enjoy link ups, here is another one

Stampede: 12a / FA: Clay Cahoon

Start on the 12a unknown (bolted by C.Zurinfkas) and then joins Shirley Stoned.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : Cragganmore : Sweet Peas (5.12b)
By: SMR When: Sep 27, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Grading might be height dependent. If shorter (I am 5'1") the crux at the top is reachy and much harder than any other 11d I have done. So I agree with 12a.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : Blacksmith Fork Canyon : Left Hand Fork : ... : Clear For Take-Off (5.12c)
By: SMR When: Sep 26, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: I think this is one of the best climbs at the wall. One spicy clip, but worth it.


Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>