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Rock Climbing Photo: tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.


Member Since: Dec 1, 2004
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact slim

Point Rank: # 311
Total Points: 2,132
Last Year: 84
Last 30 Days: 4
3 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has slim been climbing?










Contributions


All 9128 | Routes 79 | Areas 5 | Photos 17 | Page Improvements | Comments 1182 | Posts 2707 | Stars 2621 | Ratings 2517
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : The Patio : Antebellum (5.12a)
By: slim When: Jun 30, 2014

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Comments: Another good strenuous route at this crag. You can choose between bigger gear in better rock and more obstruction or smaller gear in less quality rock at the start - and this is a pretty key decision. The book says the crux is at the thin crack roof, but I thought this section was a lot easier than the start. A bit on the dirty side up higher, but not too bad. Well worth doing.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : The Patio : The War on Peace (5.12-)
By: slim When: Jun 30, 2014

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Comments: Really fun climbing on this one. The only, yet common, complaint was that the last bolt didn't provide good protection for the finish, particularly for shorter climbers doing it on sight. Overall, substantially easier than Clyde's Big Adventure but still probably in the 12a range.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : The Patio : Clyde's Big Adventure (5.12a)
By: slim When: Jun 30, 2014

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Comments: The climbing and protection on the lower half are perfect. On the upper section, the climbing is still good, but the bolting isn't the best. Between the 5th and 6th bolt, be prepared for tenuous climbing with a post-crux pump and bad ledge fall potential below your right foot. Falling here could be really, really bad. Another detraction is sharing the anchor out right with War on Peace, which makes for a traffic jam and difficult cleaning.

If these minor issues were spruced up, this would defin... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : The Patio : Carrying Futons (5.11c)
By: slim When: Jun 30, 2014

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Comments: Fun climbing with good protection. The opening section didn't feel much easier than the 12a's to the right, albeit a bit more brief.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Broken Rock : Fit for Life (5.12)
By: slim When: Jun 20, 2014

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Comments: I would like to watch a dozen good climbers do this one and see how they do it. I guess 12c is maybe an exageration, I was able to get it first go on TR (although absolutely barely). All total, I am 5/6 on it (fell on #5 last night, much swearing), but man is it hard as hell. I always feel like I am falling off of every move through that first 2 bolts off the ledge.

I am curious about Tony's comments about the small holds - I couldn't figure out how to use anything other than pretty dec... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Broken Rock : Fit for Life (5.12)
By: slim When: Jun 20, 2014

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Comments: I would have to disagree with the assumption that this route is easier if you are tall. The brutal undercling/laybacking would probably favor a shorter person. I thought this thing felt closer to 12c than 12a. I was really surprised at how hard it is, compared to other 12a's by the same FAs.

Overall, a good route. Would be a 3 star route if the shit was cleaned off of the best holds and some lichen was scrubbed.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Oceanic Wall : Sargasso Sea (5.12a)
By: slim When: Jun 8, 2014

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Comments: A blue TCU-sized piece can be used between bolts 2 and 3. The climbing through here is pretty easy, but it was wet when I did it, so it was kind of nice to have. The upper crux took a bit to figure out. I thought the protection here was a little weird. There is a ledge in a bad spot below, and you don't really get rewarded with a good clipping stance when you go for it. The 2nd bolt above the crux seemed poorly thought out also.

Overall, the climbing is really good. If the bolts were dialed i... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose : Golden Rose (5.12a)
By: slim When: Jun 8, 2014

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Comments: Fun, little route with good protection at the crux. Tricky the first time, substantially easier the second time.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Witches' Tower : Teenage Terrorists (5.12b)
By: slim When: Jun 8, 2014

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Comments: The climbing is ok, but unfortunately it is an absolutely filthy pile. If for some reason you are compelled to climb this thing, bring a couple wire brushes, goggles, and a dust mask. I looked like I had been working in a lichen mine after climbing this thing. Also, the bolts could have been a little tighter through the start off of the ledge. Be prepared to 'make contact' with your belayer.

(edited to add) i went back up and scrubbed the lower section pretty thorougly which improved the climbi... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Witches' Tower : Tipskin Jihad (5.12a/b)
By: slim When: Jun 8, 2014

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Comments: Kind of a lame route. Climbing straight up the bolt line is way hard. On my second attempt with weather rolling in, I eeked out right and felt kind of dirty. According to the guidebook, this is the way to go, but it would have been nice if the bolts followed the climbing better.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Witches' Tower : Panic Attack (AKA BOB...Bom... (5.12-)
By: slim When: Jun 8, 2014

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Comments: Only about 10, maybe 15 feet of interesting climbing on this, and it is really dirty. The main seam feature seeps for long periods after wet weather.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Holdout : Beefeater (5.10b)
By: slim When: Jun 4, 2014

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Comments: 5'11" isn't tall :)


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 4X4 : Unnamed (5.10+)
By: slim When: May 30, 2014

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Comments: yeah, i couldn't really tell either. maybe we'll leave both entries up, and hopefully some folks will climb in that area and add some info. between the guidebooks being vague and not too many people climbing that far left it is a bit of a mystery.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 4X4 : Unnamed (5.10+)
By: slim When: May 28, 2014

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Comments: this sounds like it might be a duplicate route post with the route to the left(?). starts off with a slightly left leaning grippy .75 camalot splitter on the right wall, meets up with the corner about 50 feet up or so(?). when i did it there was a mangled .75 camalot fixed in there, but that was a while ago.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : The Appendage : The Bulge (5.11b)
By: slim When: May 27, 2014

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Comments: quartzite is metamorphosed sandstone. really slick limestone is just really slick limestone.


Location: CO : South Platte : Rampart Range Road : Jackson Creek : The Taj Mahal : Taj Mixed Climb (5.10d)
By: slim When: May 20, 2014

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Comments: I remember this one being pretty hard and very sustained. Really good route.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Peg Leg Wall : Best For Your Stick (5.10c)
By: slim When: May 11, 2014

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Comments: Note that photo on page 91 in the blue Shelf Road Rock Book has a snafu with the numbers. In the photo, the line shown as #12 is Best For Your Stick. The route on the left side of the arete (shown as #11) is Sex Wax, 11a.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Peg Leg Wall
By: slim When: May 11, 2014

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Comments: Here is some additional info to help you find the trail: head west along the road in the bottom of The Bank, past the marked trail for the Piggy Bank. A few hundred yards later, there will be a section of road that is adjacent to a cool, little section of the creekbed that has a wall of white rock along it. Maybe a 100 yards past this, there are small cairns on both sides of the road that mark the trail to Peg Leg. The cairns are in a pretty non-descript piece of the road, and the trail is fain... more >>


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Givler's Dome : Bo Derek (5.10a)
By: slim When: May 9, 2014

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Comments: IIRC, you can get in a good orange hb offset brass and pretty much have a TR at the crux. bolt is completely unnecessary here.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Vault : The Gem (5.12c) : Photo
By: slim When: May 4, 2014

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Comments: I really like this photo - the look on his face really describes this section.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Vault : The Gem (5.12c)
By: slim When: May 4, 2014

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Comments: Wow, what a route. The lower section is fairly temperature/humidity dependent - you want cool and dry for this section. The upper crux, even more so. Clipping the 4th bolt is really intense. From the ground, it doesn't look like much, but when you get up there, you will see what I mean. The climbing through this section is brilliant, and it seems like this 8 foot section is more like 20 feet. The last crux, God help you if you aren't tall with a good reach. You will need to go full beast mode he... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : Lockdown (5.12c)
By: slim When: May 4, 2014

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Comments: I really liked this route. Easy climbing up to about the 4th bolt, then one or 2 really hard moves, followed by endless fun 9/10a climbing. You will want to be properly warmed up for the crux as it is pretty tendon intensive.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : The Real Deal (5.12a)
By: slim When: May 4, 2014

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Comments: Good route that is a bit easier (in some ways) than the surrounding 12a's but makes up for it in other ways.... Getting to the 3rd bolt is a little bit in your grill. Top part isn't hard but isn't super casual considering the bolt spacing and occasional friable rock.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Turkey Turd (5.11c) : Photo
By: slim When: Apr 25, 2014

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Comments: Yeah, looks like The Turd. Direct goes out the right side of the elevator shaft to the climber's left. Great photo though - The Turd would be heinous with old shoes and old gear.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Original Meat Wall : Meat Hooks (5.11a)
By: slim When: Apr 10, 2014

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Comments: hmmm, i wonder if the pillar has shifted some? the last time i did it, maybe 2010(?) you could get a #4 C4 in a slight pod about midway up (crushed in there and not very deep). also you could get a #4 up near the very top. the main dihedral was all super tight 3.5 camalot (4 friend), or really tipped out #3 camalots (3.5 friends).

super route, either way!


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