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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Cynical Pinnacle : Rising Crescendo (5.11c/d R)
By: slim When: Nov 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This one is high on my list. It looks like you could start it down by the first (chimney) pitch of Turfspreader, and head up left to meet up with your described first pitch. The thin crack that goes left from Center Route to Fender dihedral looks pretty cool.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Critic's Choice : BBC from Cleveland (5.10+)
By: slim When: Nov 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: if i remember correctly, Kris Lucic put this route up, maybe fall of 08 or spring of 09. i'm not even gonna tell you what BBC stands for...
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Escalante Canyon : Bikini Buttress Area : Unknown Hand/Fist Crack (5.0) : Photo
By: slim When: Nov 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: People shoot at EVERYTHING there, and I mean EVERYTHING.... One of my trips there, a truck was driving down the road with a guy in back just shooting non stop. Kind of unsettling....
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Escalante Canyon
By: slim When: Nov 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That's a REALLY good point, Chad. Using anchors for target practice has long been an Escalante tradition. Painting the anchors a brownish color, as well as putting them in more discrete areas is pretty key here.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Photo
By: slim When: Nov 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: any idea where it is?
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area
By: slim When: Nov 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tony, you bring up very good, valid points concerning IC and Unaweep. My point was more or less limited to the Front Range, although I admit that I was being pretty pessimistic.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area
By: slim When: Nov 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ditto what Kevin said. In the Front Range area, it seems like the AF only chases after the popular grid bolted sport areas. I don't feel I really get much out of it.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Spiral Staircase area : Svengali (M9) : Photo
By: slim When: Nov 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Belayer is gonna get more pumped than the climber at that rate!
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Not One Of Us (5.12a)
By: slim When: Nov 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Surprised that this route gets so many stars. Weird climbing, belay stances that are about 3 feet below huge, relaxing ledges (WTF?), and several pretty weird bolt placements kind of detracted from it. In particular, the bolt before the anchors on the 2nd pitch is super contrived, particularly considering you are looking at breaking your ankles if you come off. My partner summed the route up by saying "it's dead to me'. I agree.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Peer Review (5.12b)
By: slim When: Nov 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: If the 7th bolt was moved down a couple feet, you could clip it from a rest stance instead of tweaking out a few more moves to a slightly committing clip. It would be an almost perfect route. Good climbing on this one, with a reachy throw to a good crimp.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Acid Rock : Sandinista (5.11b PG13)
By: slim When: Nov 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've done the right line, you kind of stem up a pair of water runnels for a bit. I think it is part of the route 'route-to-top' or something like that. My notes say 5.9- , it's quite a bit easier than Sandanista. Really fun pitch.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Pony Express t... : Reckoning (5.12d)
By: slim When: Nov 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Josh, by the time you horse around with getting to it from the east side, it would probably be just as quick to do all of HC in one pitch. Particularly if you can cross the creek at the Milton Boulder.
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Location: CO : Lyons : South Saint Vrain Canyon : Scout Rock : Little Bear (5.11b)
By: slim When: Nov 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pretty good route on interesting rock. It would be better if the bolt that protects the crux was a bit lower and to the right. Iit would be easier to clip, and it would protect the right hand option better, which is more natural and more probable for shorter climbers. As it is, coming off the right hand option could result in swinging into the flake. Also, the hidden bolt way off to the left in the middle of the crux seemed weird.
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Location: CO : Lyons : South Saint Vrain Canyon : Scout Rock : Broken Arrow (5.11c)
By: slim When: Nov 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pretty good route. A couple bolts are in awkward spots on the upper part, which is a little unfortunate. It works out ok, but would definitely favor a redpoint effort versus an onsight effort, which I kind of don't agree with. The onsight effort requires going one or two moves past the best stances to be able to clip. It would definitely be substantially easier with prehung draws.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Forgotten Tower
By: slim When: Nov 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: i had heard that it had been climbed also, but don't have details (or even remember who it was that told me it had been climbed). good question. that dihedral of sorts, to the top of a tower of sorts, would have been inviting back in the day.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Snake Buttress
By: slim When: Nov 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fremont,
I usually bring some of those little cheezy foam earplugs when I am doing any hand drilling, it is definitely really hard on my ears otherwise. Thanks to you and Kevin both. Snake Buttress is a fun little crag. I'm always surprised it doesn't see more traffic.
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Location: Buff Johnson : Personal2 : Photo
By: slim When: Oct 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: hmmm, looks likes some equipment is missing, unless you're packing a 9mm.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : Sudden Impact (5.11a)
By: slim When: Oct 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is, I can't remember the name of it, but if I remember correctly it is about a number grade harder. It's pretty good, give it a shot.
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Location: Dan Cillo : Dan : Photo
By: slim When: Oct 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: dan, where is this photo from. looks familiar.
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Location: WY : Wild Iris : The Main Wall : Cowboy Poetry
By: slim When: Oct 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: is this the same alf that has no problem etching route names into the wall at IC?
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Escalante Canyon
By: slim When: Oct 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I imagine those anchors will disappear pretty quickly. I can say, without any doubt, that pretty much anything that looks like a line in Escalante has been done, and if it looks like there is the slightest chance that it can go to the rim, it did.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Lats Don't Have Feelings (5.11d)
By: slim When: Oct 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: For me, the 3rd clip was ALWAYS the crux of the route. If the bolt was a foot lower you could clip it from good holds and the best stance. Definitely be careful, as I had a partner blow the clip and come really close to getting busted up on the ledgy terrain below.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Hawk-Eagle Ridge : Die Heeda Rule (5.11b)
By: slim When: Oct 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A very nice, short, steep route. Great rock quality. I climbed it jamming with my left and slapping up the arete with my right, and was able to have gear the entire time, felt 11a or so. My wife led it straight on and said it felt about 11a also.
Gear for it is from 0.3 (blue) Camalot to 0.5 Camalot. Basically finger-sized cams. Stoppers would be a little harder to place as the constrictions are subtle.
To descend, head to the right (downhill/south) when you get up to the gnarly juniper,... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Sister Superior Group
By: slim When: Oct 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: actually casey, i could imagine a really good downpour washing you out to the highway in about an hour in this drainage!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Photo
By: slim When: Oct 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great photo!
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