Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.


Member Since: Dec 1, 2004
Last Visit: 9 hours ago
Contact slim


Point Rank: # 294
Total Points: 1,869
Last Year: 304
Last 30 Days: 11
2 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has slim been climbing?










Contributions


All 8247 | Routes 63 | Areas 5 | Photos 17 | Page Improvments | Comments 1079 | Posts 2454 | Stars 2361 | Ratings 2268
Page 5 of 330.  <<First   <Prev   3  4  5  6  7   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : The Patio : Bottom Feeder (5.11b)
By: slim When: Jun 30, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Kind of a weird route. Sort of a mixed route, yet in the upper climbing bolts are literally 6 inches away from good cracks. Yet, the crux section isn't very well-protected against the rampy/ledgy stuff below. If the protection was better thought out and the route adequately cleaned (bushes, lichen, crumbly rock), this would be a 1 or 2 star route. Half star in its current state.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : The Patio : Underbelly (5.12a)
By: slim When: Jun 30, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Agree with ac - this should have ended just above the start. The climbing above this is absolute garbage: absolutely filthy, mungy rock, crappy climbing. The icing on the cake is having to share the anchor out right, which tries to force you to re-climb it to clean your gear. Just say no.

I thought the start of this was as hard or harder than any of the 12a's at this crag. Not a lot to work with.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : The Patio : Antebellum (5.12a)
By: slim When: Jun 30, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Another good strenuous route at this crag. You can choose between bigger gear in better rock and more obstruction or smaller gear in less quality rock at the start - and this is a pretty key decision. The book says the crux is at the thin crack roof, but I thought this section was a lot easier than the start. A bit on the dirty side up higher, but not too bad. Well worth doing.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : The Patio : The War on Peace (5.12a/b)
By: slim When: Jun 30, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Really fun climbing on this one. The only, yet common, complaint was that the last bolt didn't provide good protection for the finish, particularly for shorter climbers doing it on sight. Overall, substantially easier than Clyde's Big Adventure but still probably in the 12a range.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : The Patio : Clyde's Big Adventure (5.12a)
By: slim When: Jun 30, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The climbing and protection on the lower half are perfect. On the upper section, the climbing is still good, but the bolting isn't the best. Between the 5th and 6th bolt, be prepared for tenuous climbing with a post-crux pump and bad ledge fall potential below your right foot. Falling here could be really, really bad. Another detraction is sharing the anchor out right with War on Peace, which makes for a traffic jam and difficult cleaning.

If these minor issues were spruced up, this would defin... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : The Patio : Carrying Futons (5.11c)
By: slim When: Jun 30, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Fun climbing with good protection. The opening section didn't feel much easier than the 12a's to the right, albeit a bit more brief.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Broken Rock : Fit for Life (5.12)
By: slim When: Jun 20, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I would like to watch a dozen good climbers do this one and see how they do it. I guess 12c is maybe an exageration, I was able to get it first go on TR (although absolutely barely). All total, I am 5/6 on it (fell on #5 last night, much swearing), but man is it hard as hell. I always feel like I am falling off of every move through that first 2 bolts off the ledge.

I am curious about Tony's comments about the small holds - I couldn't figure out how to use anything other than pretty dec... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Broken Rock : Fit for Life (5.12)
By: slim When: Jun 20, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I would have to disagree with the assumption that this route is easier if you are tall. The brutal undercling/laybacking would probably favor a shorter person. I thought this thing felt closer to 12c than 12a. I was really surprised at how hard it is, compared to other 12a's by the same FAs.

Overall, a good route. Would be a 3 star route if the shit was cleaned off of the best holds and some lichen was scrubbed.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Oceanic Wall : Sargasso Sea (5.12a)
By: slim When: Jun 8, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: A blue TCU-sized piece can be used between bolts 2 and 3. The climbing through here is pretty easy, but it was wet when I did it, so it was kind of nice to have. The upper crux took a bit to figure out. I thought the protection here was a little weird. There is a ledge in a bad spot below, and you don't really get rewarded with a good clipping stance when you go for it. The 2nd bolt above the crux seemed poorly thought out also.

Overall, the climbing is really good. If the bolts were dialed i... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose : Golden Rose (5.12a)
By: slim When: Jun 8, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Fun, little route with good protection at the crux. Tricky the first time, substantially easier the second time.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Witches' Tower : Teenage Terrorists (5.12a/b)
By: slim When: Jun 8, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The climbing is ok, but unfortunately it is an absolutely filthy pile. If for some reason you are compelled to climb this thing, bring a couple wire brushes, goggles, and a dust mask. I looked like I had been working in a lichen mine after climbing this thing. Also, the bolts could have been a little tighter through the start off of the ledge. Be prepared to 'make contact' with your belayer.

(edited to add) i went back up and scrubbed the lower section pretty thorougly which improved the climbi... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Witches' Tower : Tipskin Jihad (5.12a/b)
By: slim When: Jun 8, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Kind of a lame route. Climbing straight up the bolt line is way hard. On my second attempt with weather rolling in, I eeked out right and felt kind of dirty. According to the guidebook, this is the way to go, but it would have been nice if the bolts followed the climbing better.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Witches' Tower : Panic Attack (AKA BOB...Bom... (5.12-)
By: slim When: Jun 8, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Only about 10, maybe 15 feet of interesting climbing on this, and it is really dirty. The main seam feature seeps for long periods after wet weather.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Elephant Rock : Elephant Rock - East : Rye Crisp (5.8)
By: slim When: Jun 4, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: no worries man.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Elephant Rock : Elephant Rock - East : Rye Crisp (5.8)
By: slim When: Jun 4, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: sure, i guess you have a right to do it. that being said, other folks who show up have the right to complain to you and your friends. this isn't going to make you look like a leader.

you ask about setting up a TR, then say you are going to lead it... have you ever seen this route? my guess is that you probably don't have the gear to comfortably lead it. if it is even remotely close to your limit, you are probably going to want a lot of big gear.

there are a lot of fun routes at this grade... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Holdout : Beefeater (5.10b)
By: slim When: Jun 4, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: 5'11" isn't tall :)


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Elephant Rock : Elephant Rock - East : Rye Crisp (5.8)
By: slim When: Jun 3, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: dude, you're the one who asked. judging by how upset you are getting i get the impression that you part of you can identify with the points that have been raised.

if i knew that people have probably travelled a bit to do this route, i would feel bad if i had it tied up for the day with a TR for a handful of people. this is a route that a lot of folks aspire to lead - it would be a shame to deny them that opportunity just so a handful of folks can struggle up it all day on TR.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Elephant Rock : Elephant Rock - East : Rye Crisp (5.8)
By: slim When: Jun 2, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: setting up a TR for 5 or 6 people on one of the most popular routes in the park, is indeed pretty lame. tons of other great routes of a similar grade in the area that would be a better choice. people will be breathing down your neck the whole time, complaining at you the whole time. i don't think it would be that enjoyable for your crew, much less everybody else.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 4X4 : Unnamed (5.10+)
By: slim When: May 30, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: yeah, i couldn't really tell either. maybe we'll leave both entries up, and hopefully some folks will climb in that area and add some info. between the guidebooks being vague and not too many people climbing that far left it is a bit of a mystery.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 4X4 : Unnamed (5.10+)
By: slim When: May 28, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: this sounds like it might be a duplicate route post with the route to the left(?). starts off with a slightly left leaning grippy .75 camalot splitter on the right wall, meets up with the corner about 50 feet up or so(?). when i did it there was a mangled .75 camalot fixed in there, but that was a while ago.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : The Appendage : The Bulge (5.11b)
By: slim When: May 27, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: quartzite is metamorphosed sandstone. really slick limestone is just really slick limestone.


Location: CO : South Platte : Rampart Range Road : Jackson Creek : The Taj Mahal : Taj Mixed Climb (5.10d)
By: slim When: May 20, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I remember this one being pretty hard and very sustained. Really good route.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Peg Leg Wall : Best For Your Stick (5.10c)
By: slim When: May 11, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Note that photo on page 91 in the blue Shelf Road Rock Book has a snafu with the numbers. In the photo, the line shown as #12 is Best For Your Stick. The route on the left side of the arete (shown as #11) is Sex Wax, 11a.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Peg Leg Wall
By: slim When: May 11, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Here is some additional info to help you find the trail: head west along the road in the bottom of The Bank, past the marked trail for the Piggy Bank. A few hundred yards later, there will be a section of road that is adjacent to a cool, little section of the creekbed that has a wall of white rock along it. Maybe a 100 yards past this, there are small cairns on both sides of the road that mark the trail to Peg Leg. The cairns are in a pretty non-descript piece of the road, and the trail is fain... more >>


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Givler's Dome : Bo Derek (5.10a)
By: slim When: May 9, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: IIRC, you can get in a good orange hb offset brass and pretty much have a TR at the crux. bolt is completely unnecessary here.


Page 5 of 330.  <<First   <Prev   3  4  5  6  7   Next>   Last>>