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tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.


Member Since: Dec 1, 2004
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Point Rank: # 281
Total Points: 1,974
Last Year: 345
Last 30 Days: 91
2 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has slim been climbing?










Contributions


All 8338 | Routes 72 | Areas 5 | Photos 17 | Page Improvements | Comments 1094 | Posts 2484 | Stars 2384 | Ratings 2282
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Escalante Canyon : Cabin Wall : Twenty Too Short (5.7)
By: slim When: Oct 17, 2014

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Comments: Thanks for posting this route, Kenan. The name is “twenty too short”, and probably like most short routes in the desert the story behind, it is longer than the climbing. I had originally thought about posting it, but I figured I would wait and see if anybody else did first. Hard to believe it has been 4-1/2 years, it was put up on 4/25/10 by Sarah Hayden with me along for the ride.

In the early to mid 2000s I spent many weekends climbing in Escalante Canyon with my friend, mentor, and desert... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Public Service Wall : Trash Man (5.11+)
By: slim When: Oct 13, 2014

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Comments: good call on the red c3's, i had one and wished i had several.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Good Excuse (5.9)
By: slim When: Oct 10, 2014

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Comments: yeah, i thought this one was kind of spooky also. it is really hard not to use the block and it would be bad for the belayer and leader both if it popped.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Hangdog Cafe : Blood Monkey (5.12a)
By: slim When: Oct 6, 2014

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Comments: This is a superb route with great climbing and perfect protection. Absolutely fun.


Location: CO : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : Tarryall Tower : Photo
By: slim When: Sep 26, 2014

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Comments: Yeah, the dome looks a lot like Pond Rock, although I haven't seen pictures of it from this angle. The other photos I have seen have been from below the right side of it.


Location: CO : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : Tarryall Tower : Tarryall Tower Crack (5.11)
By: slim When: Sep 22, 2014

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Comments: I think (am pretty sure actually) Kerry Gunter and Noah Bigwood climbed this in the late '80s or early '90s. Maybe in the 11 range (?). Kerry was trying to talk me into doing it, but I know better. ;)

IIRC he said #4 Camalots on the first pitch and tough underclinging at the top.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 4X4 : Unknown OW (5.11+)
By: slim When: Sep 16, 2014

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Comments: any new info for this route?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Piles of Trials (5.12b/c)
By: slim When: Sep 15, 2014

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Comments: Interesting route. For me, the crux ended up actually being at the start of the rightwards traverse (getting into the the good hold at the start without getting tangled up in the rope). The feet through here are tough to see and kind of slippery. The rest of it was pretty sequency, but I didn't really ever dyno (used more lower leg flagging instead). One last compression type of move to get stood up onto the headwall.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Wipeyur Buttress : Morning Thunder (5.12d)
By: slim When: Sep 2, 2014

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Comments: I think 12d is probably fair for this route. Agreed that there aren't any shutdown moves on it, but by the time you get to the crux, you have some wear and tear on you. When I tried it the first time, I thought I would get it really quick, but I kept unraveling at the crux, and it took me more tries than I thought it would. Great route, the climbing is superb on this one.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Playin' Hooky (5.8) : Photo
By: slim When: Aug 28, 2014

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Comments: Also looks like you are clipped through 2 loops of a daisy chain(?).


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Lucid Dreaming (5.12d)
By: slim When: Aug 18, 2014

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Comments: Completely agree w/ JA and KCP.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Chicken Head Ranch : Those Who Crank & Those Who... (5.13b)
By: slim When: Aug 13, 2014

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Comments: Super fun route. The stemming on the lower half is great, and after you have done it a couple times, you can fly right up it and feel like a hero. The boulder problem at the top had one move on it that really took all of my effort - if you sag the slightest bit it just isn't going to happen. After that, if you can throw the rope through the draw, it is just a matter of hanging on for dear life as you clip the anchors. Not sure what to call it grade wise, it isn't my usual style of route (act... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls
By: slim When: Aug 11, 2014

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Comments: Crying about a hold breaking at Eldo, that's some funny shit. Calling Taylor a turd? Not so funny....


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Five-Ten Crack (5.10a)
By: slim When: Aug 11, 2014

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Comments: I remember this one being pretty well protected for 10a at Eldo, albeit with small gear. You have pretty decent stances, and you can place quite a few good small wires. Maybe go back up and do it again, you might be more relaxed and find more protection opportunities.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Holy Saturday : It's OK to Be Humbled (5.11a)
By: slim When: Aug 11, 2014

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Comments: I remember this one being kind of hard a little bit heady (some friable rock). Even the 'easier' sections were kind of funky.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : ... : Photo
By: slim When: Aug 4, 2014

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Comments: For the life of me I can't remember that, which is surprising because it looks kind of not well-protected, which is something I usually remember.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Chicken Head Ranch : The Crystal Key (5.12a)
By: slim When: Aug 4, 2014

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Comments: This is a nice, long pitch with really good climbing. The crux is pretty tough if you aren't proficient at manteling.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Chicken Head Ranch : Colonel Jack's Dixie Chicke... (5.9)
By: slim When: Aug 4, 2014

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Comments: Fun route with a cool variety of rock features. Well worth doing if you are in the area. The knobs up high are pretty sweet.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Photo
By: slim When: Aug 4, 2014

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Comments: Good photo of 'the crystal key'.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Trojan Bunny Buttress
By: slim When: Jul 30, 2014

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Comments: Has anybody made it up to the TBB this season? We made a feeble attempt a couple weeks ago. Between my wife being gimpy and me being wimpy the creek crossing didn't look too enticing, so we bailed. Curious to see if anybody has found a good way across - it looks like the creek has changed a lot since I was last there a few years ago.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Fiddler on the Roof (5.10+) : Photo
By: slim When: Jul 23, 2014

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Comments: i don't think following this pitch is going to be much less scary than leading it....


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : ... : Photo
By: slim When: Jul 16, 2014

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Comments: Are you sure this is Outer Space? Looks more like XM(?).


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : Sheer Terror (5.12c X)
By: slim When: Jul 2, 2014

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Comments: You should put together a risk assessment/hazard analysis chart for this route. That would be pretty funny - the whole thing would pretty much be red.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : The Patio : For Whom the Bell Tolls (5.11b)
By: slim When: Jun 30, 2014

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Comments: This is another route at the patio that starts out with excellent climbing and protection and then kind of fizzles out. If the anchors were placed at the top of the dihedral, this would probably be a 2 or 3 star route. Unfortunately, you are forced to climb/traverse through munge to get to the anchor on the left hand route. You end up spending more time horsing around on this crap than climbing the good section of the dihedral.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : The Patio : Bottom Feeder (5.11b)
By: slim When: Jun 30, 2014

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Comments: Kind of a weird route. Sort of a mixed route, yet in the upper climbing bolts are literally 6 inches away from good cracks. Yet, the crux section isn't very well-protected against the rampy/ledgy stuff below. If the protection was better thought out and the route adequately cleaned (bushes, lichen, crumbly rock), this would be a 1 or 2 star route. Half star in its current state.


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