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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Colorado National Monument : Monument Canyon : Desert Solitaire (5.11a C1)
By: Skyeler Congdon When: 5 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: The Lightning Bolt Variation is so friggin' classic. One of the best single pitches in the Monument! But it means you can't link pitches 3, 4. Worth it, though.
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Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Apple Cider : Chingadero? (5.12a/b)
By: Skyeler Congdon When: Nov 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very sustained for the first five clips. Holds have broken off up high and it kinda kills the quality of this line. Not sure how much longer this rig will last (at least at this grade!)
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Late Bloomer Boulder Area : Orange Roughy (V6)
By: Skyeler Congdon When: Nov 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: NEH,
I've posted several problems around GJ as well, and have been leery about assigning names. I am fairly certain that my problem at this sector, Forgotten Friend, was a FA when I did it in 2007, based on how much I had to clean it. But if you recognize any of the problems I've posted, please comment (several at Riggs and all the problems at the Ridge at Dynamite Shacks).
It's a pet peeve of mine to see a lot of unnamed problems- especially if I'm projecting them, but I also would prefer to ... more >>
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : Mother's Buttress : ... : Centurion (5.11)
By: Skyeler Congdon When: Oct 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I consider this route to be at least a letter grade easier than Jagged Edge. Start on the Edge and you'll hike this thing!
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Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Apple Cider : Contortionist (5.11d)
By: Skyeler Congdon When: Sep 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Seriously? Wow, props to Kozak. That thing would be a HEADY lead. I was talking to a couple locals the other day and we speculated if this route had never seen a ground-up ascent.
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Location: CO : Durango : Golf Wall : Back 9 : Put Put (5.11b/c)
By: Skyeler Congdon When: Sep 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Harder than Three Roofs, IMO.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : Quarry Wall : Sunrise (5.11)
By: Skyeler Congdon When: Aug 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the best lines at this wall! Sustained, interesting movement, and a crux right at the end! Classic.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Riggs' Hill : Photo
By: Skyeler Congdon When: Jun 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I disagree strongly with the above comment. Homey must not be looking closely! GCH, your comment has inspired me to add my favorite problems of this area to the database. I'm usually more psyched to boulder at Riggs than anywhere else in the GJ vicinity.
I don't know if my ascents are truly FAs, so if some other locals you have ascents pre-dating spring '07, please let me know and I'll change the info!
Also, the Butter Boulder and Abattoir Boulder can be seen in this photo on the far right.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Riggs' Hill : Riggs' Hill East : Hairy Lip (V6)
By: Skyeler Congdon When: Jun 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: One more thing:
I know someone is GJ can send this rig! Do it! And give it a cooler name. Its a great problem and I've been back more than once to project it, but damn that last move is hard!
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : Juniper Wall : All the Right Moves (5.11a)
By: Skyeler Congdon When: Jun 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The guidebook gives this 11a, but I found it to be much easier- probably for the simple reason that KC Baum has HUGE hands and the crux of this is somewhat thin.
All this is to say that if you come to Juniper to climb the 8 and 9, give this one a TR (its on the way back down from the walk off) and you'll probably be pleasantly suprised!
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : Quarry Wall : Mayachulla (5.11c)
By: Skyeler Congdon When: May 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I TR solo'd this route today- or tried to... Once in the crack, it was too dirty and filled with plant life. I swung over to Eclyias and finished on that (much better climbing).
If you're considering climbing this route, please bring a brush and some gardening gloves...it will be very worthwhile if it ever cleans up.
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Location: CO : Durango : Golf Wall : Back 9 : Pebble Beach (5.11c)
By: Skyeler Congdon When: Apr 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: What a perfectly named route!! Right before the crux, there is a great no hands rest where you basically lie down on your back in a pebble filled hole/ledge. Chillin on the beach!
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Location: CO : Durango : X Rock : Gold Wall : Gold Wall (5.10+)
By: Skyeler Congdon When: Mar 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: An emotional lead. One of Durango's best pitches.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Ice Cream Parlor : Ice Cream Parlor crack (5.11-)
By: Skyeler Congdon When: Nov 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Gear List: (1) .3, (6-7) .4, and one 4 or 5 Camalot. Orange TCU's work very well also.
Totally kickass pitch and much better than Blue Gramma, its IC rival!
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Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Left : Special K (5.9)
By: Skyeler Congdon When: Nov 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A dangerous lead. Bring a cool head to this climb or TR off the Yosemite Crack.
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Location: CO : Durango : Lemon Reservoir : East Side : Holy Grail (5.11d)
By: Skyeler Congdon When: Oct 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route can be rapped with a 60 meter rope. Barely.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Three of a Kind Wall : The Face (V3)
By: Skyeler Congdon When: May 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: There's no way the sit start is V5. Sorry boys, but I don't climb V5 yet managed to get my arse up this one from the sit. I'd say V3+.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Colorado National Monument : Liberty Cap : Whirling Dervish (5.11a)
By: Skyeler Congdon When: Apr 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The friable holds on the arete section of this climb make Dervish a spooky and, well kinda shitty climb. But I guess that's the Monument for ya....
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Rough Canyon : Eve of War (5.8)
By: Skyeler Congdon When: Aug 7, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Combining this with the Gibbous and the President makes for a fun, practical way to get back to the car.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : North Chasm View Wall : Movable Stoned Voyage (5.10)
By: Skyeler Congdon When: Jun 16, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The guidebook offers a 5.11 bolted variation on I believe the third pitch: DO NOT TAKE IT!! Totally, not worth it as it became a pain in the ass to get back to the proper MSV line.
Overall, I agree with Dougald that this route is hyped way too much. Definitely the least enjoyable of the 5.10s I've done in the Black.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : North Chasm View Wall : Journey Home (5.10-)
By: Skyeler Congdon When: Jun 1, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Roughly what time does this route go into the shade?
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : Mother's Buttress : ... : Jagged Edge (5.11-)
By: Skyeler Congdon When: Apr 29, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I believe thats one of Jim Beyer's new routes. Just heresay though. Supposed to be somewhere in the mid-10 range- maybe harder.
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