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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Chocolate Factory : Bleak December (5.12a)
By: skinny legs and all When: 2 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: This is one of the best pages I have seen for a low end 5.12 on the site. Well done Andrew!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : ... : Photo
By: skinny legs and all When: May 23, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This photo perfectly illustrates Derek's penchant to live life teetering on the brink of sanity.
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Winchester Cave : 7 P.M. Show (5.14-)
By: skinny legs and all When: Apr 26, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very fast second ascent by a young Chris Sharma.
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Old Baldy/ Mount Baldy : Orange Roughy Boulder : Orange Roughy (V6) : Photo
By: skinny legs and all When: Apr 21, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I can almost feel my right tricep locking down...
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pebble Beach : Welcome to ol' Kentuck (5.13a) : Photo
By: skinny legs and all When: Apr 21, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I do not normally like top down photographs, but this is an exception in my mind. Nice shot! The crack snaking up to the top center of the frame gives a perspective of what is to come.
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Location: AR : Sam's Throne & Surroundings : Sam's Throne : East Main Bluff : Hero Maker Wall : Dark Divine (5.12c)
By: skinny legs and all When: Apr 21, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Imp told me to applaud your route contribution, particularly the in depth description! I like your writing style, Jeremy, especially the Edgar Allen Poe reference.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Beauty Mountain : Thunder Buttress : Transcendence (5.11d)
By: skinny legs and all When: Apr 21, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Andrew Barry first ascended this line ground up, without bolts in September 1985. At the time it was a very bold ascent, and I suspect would still be today.
In 1991 visiting climbers bolted it, mistaking it for a first ascent. The locals were pissed, but decided to let it be, as no one was lining up to attempt it as a traditionally protected climb due to the scare factor. Get your retro trad on and give it a whirl without bolts if you so dare!
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Beauty Mountain : Thunder Buttress : Gun Club (5.12c)
By: skinny legs and all When: Apr 21, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Brooke first ascended The Gun Club in April 1989. Dan Osman soloed it in 1991. The description of Dan's solo is spot on. I heard almost the same story. The day prior to his send he was not looking solid. I think he tied into a short section of dynamic rope, soloed up to the crux, clipped into the nearest bolt, attempted the crux and whipped multiple times, without a belayer. In my mind, this was one of his ballsiest short solos.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Beauty Mountain : Thunder Buttress : ... : Photo
By: skinny legs and all When: Apr 21, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dan's decision to solo the route defines reckless abandon in my mind.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Beauty Mountain : Burning Buttress : The Sportster (5.13b)
By: skinny legs and all When: Apr 21, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Whilst reading Fred's description, I feel as if I am there climbing on the route. Great job!
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Beauty Mountain : The Brain : M.E.N.S.A. (5.11d)
By: skinny legs and all When: Apr 21, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route feels runout for a sport climb, but do not let that scare you off.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Beauty Mountain : The Brain : Chunky Munky (5.12b)
By: skinny legs and all When: Apr 21, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: First ascent included Porter Jarrard and was in May 1990. I always thought the name was Chunky Monkey. This is one of the absolute best 5.12b's at the New.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Beauty Mountain : The Brain : The Travisty (5.13c)
By: skinny legs and all When: Apr 21, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The name of this route stems from it's controversial history. A visiting climber drilled two pockets in the crux. Outraged locals artfully filled them in, then Harrison Dekker later did the first ascent au natural in October 1991. At the time it was one of the New's hardest. The spelling of the name is a pun on the name of the driller.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : Photo
By: skinny legs and all When: Apr 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is one of the best photographs of a female I have seen on Mountain Project.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Wall of Confusion : Fear and Loathing, III (5.12-)
By: skinny legs and all When: Apr 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: John Bachar soloed this in the early 90's, probably many times. This was at least the third route in Vegas to be named "Fear and Loathing".
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Location: PA : Mount Gretna : 45 Area : "Trailside Project" (V4-5)
By: skinny legs and all When: Apr 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Stand start was done many times back in the day. The sit start has never been done. Try it! It could "only" be sandbag Gretna V8/9 (*cough* V10-11).
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Location: PA : Mount Gretna : 45 Area : "23 Project" (V3-4)
By: skinny legs and all When: Apr 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Stand start has been done many times back in the day. The full butt start line is a Joel Terretti vision. It most certainly has not been completed or even seriously worked in many years. Definetly V10 minimum, probably closer to V11/12.
This problem and the sit start (butt on the ground) to Havvit (V9/10-V11) at the Colflesh area left of Bodysnap are two of the best candidates V double digit problems at Gretna.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Cascade Area : Cascade Falls - Upper : The Phoenix (5.13a)
By: skinny legs and all When: Apr 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ray Jardine purposely chipped holds to make the first free ascent, it just is not discussed often. Also, Jerry Moffatt was the first person to flash The Phoenix in 1984. This was at the height of his training for and traveling to hard cracks around the world, before he took up sport climbing.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Valley Bouldering : Camp 4 Bouldering : Bruce Lee (V8)
By: skinny legs and all When: Apr 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Personally, I really enjoy Andy's videos of his sends.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Valley Bouldering : Camp 4 Bouldering : Midnight Lightning (V8)
By: skinny legs and all When: Apr 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: First female ascent by Lynn Hill, though she used a toprope to suss the moves. I bet this problem has seen less than a dozen female ascents. I think Alex Johnson has done it, as well as Thomisida Pidgeon. Does anyone know of any other females who have done it?
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Endless Wall : Diamond Point : Straight Up and Stiff (5.11a)
By: skinny legs and all When: Apr 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Whiskey, neat...ice ruins brown liquor.
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Location: NV : Mt. Charleston : The Hood : The Souls Cave : Gutbuster 2000 (5.14c)
By: skinny legs and all When: Apr 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: While Jason was working on the first ascent, his screams concerned a woman enough to call 911 and report a possible murder. The police responded only to realize that the commotion was caused by Campbell's gut busting efforts!
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Valley Bouldering : Camp 4 Bouldering : The Force (V9)
By: skinny legs and all When: Apr 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: First ascent by Jerry Moffatt in 1991 at the grade of 8a. He called it the best new boulder problem he has made the first ascent of. Shortly after, John Bachar ripped off two glue reinforced flakes in the name of ethics making the problem easier. Bachar said he used fingernail clippers to open up the flakes so he could get his fingers behind them and yank them off. See Rock and Ice #50 in the editorials for the full story.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Valley Bouldering : Camp 4 Bouldering : Thriller (V9)
By: skinny legs and all When: Apr 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: First ascent by Ron Kauk in 1984. This was the last and hardest problem to come out of Yosemite's "traditional bouldering era".
Frederic Nicole was the first person to flash the problem in 1993. Actually, he onsighted it with no beta or chalk on the holds. Would you expect anything less from the Swiss powerhouse?
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Valley Bouldering : Camp 4 Bouldering : King Cobra (V8 R)
By: skinny legs and all When: Apr 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first ascent of King Cobra was done by visiting Englishman Adam Wainwright in the spring of 1993.
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