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Member Since: Jul 29, 2008
Last Visit: Nov 7, 2013
Contact SketchySam


Point Rank: # 3,955
Total Points: 99
Last Year: 5
Last 30 Days: 0
2 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has SketchySam been climbing?










Contributions


All (45) | Routes (1) | Areas | Photos (16) | Comments (9) | Posts (2) | Stars (9) | Ratings (8)

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Ken's Crack (5.7+)
By: SketchySam When: Nov 15, 2011

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Comments: I love this route, even though it's so short, because it's one of the few routes at the Gunks that offers the opportunity to get stellar hand and finger jams (another being Sonja, but it's a notch up in difficulty). I agree with the 5.7 rating, but I think this rating only applies if you're proficient at hand-jamming and finger-locking and you get the crux sequence just right. That being said, hand-jamming and finger-locking don't come naturally to most climbers and the Gunks offers very few opt... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Retribution (5.10b)
By: SketchySam When: Nov 15, 2011

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Comments: I love this route. Super fun, sustained and great pro. Somehow this route gets rated a PG but Bunny to the left gets rated a G. I actually think it's the opposite. I remember being able to place as much pro as anyone could ever want on Retribution but I remember the pro on Bunny being kind of sketchy.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : P38 (5.10b PG13)
By: SketchySam When: Nov 15, 2011

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Comments: Stellar route! For the well protected version, traverse way left on the ledge after the crux, like 15 feet, until you find a nice pink tricam placement at chest level. Place that little sucker and then crank over the bulge at about 5.7. Doing it that way felt well protected. I'd give it a G. If you instead took the direct line up straight up the face after the crux then I feel that would be a spicy 5.10 move, albeit super fun.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Sonja (5.10b)
By: SketchySam When: Nov 15, 2011

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Comments: This little route is super cool. It's a true rarity in the Gunks - one of the only pure hand cracks that I can think of. It's only tight hands in a few spots. I have big hands and I managed to find nice jams. I even got a finger lock at one point. Totally classic!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Dry Martini (5.7)
By: SketchySam When: Oct 5, 2011

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Comments: We did this for the first time last weekend and it was great. Most climbs were either wet from the rainstorm the previous night, or had people on them, so we decided to give this one a shot. The second belay station, consisting of two pins and a tricam, would have required traversing way out right so I just climbed straight up a bit more and set a belay a little higher. If you do a good job at placing runners, you could probably just climb straight to the GT ledge from the first belay and skip t... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Finger Locks or Cedar Box (5.5)
By: SketchySam When: Sep 7, 2010

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Comments: This is quite possibly one of my favorite moderate single pitch routes at the gunks. I'm a crack lover and it's rare to find a nice cruiser splitter like this at the gunks.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Arch (5.5)
By: SketchySam When: Nov 17, 2009

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Comments: There are a couple of spots on P1 where you simply can't fall - the holds and pro a both bad in some spots. Granted, the climbing is easy, but the rock is suspect. In addition, the first pitch traverses so much that its difficult to protect well and prevent rope drag. P2 is mediocre climbing at best. The route is contrived - loose holds, dirty climbing, excessive traversing and sketchy pro.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Wall : The Wall - Left Side : Hands Off (5.8)
By: SketchySam When: Nov 17, 2009

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Comments: This is quite possibly my favorite route at JTree. This aesthetic line demands flawless style and requires every technique in the book. Put a beginner on this and watch him flail. Put a pro on this and watch him have the time of his life.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Blob : The Blob - Southeast Face : Buissonier (5.7)
By: SketchySam When: Nov 17, 2009

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Comments: Super tight hands. You will have to layback if you have large hands, which will make the climb uber-strenuous.