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Member Since: Mar 12, 2012
Last Visit: Aug 17, 2016
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SirTobyThe3rd
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Total Points: 1,902
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
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Contributions


All 1081 | Routes 28 | Areas 12 | Photos 278 | Page Improvements | Comments 52 | Posts 232 | Stars 433 | Ratings 46
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : High Sierra : 10 - Kearsarge Pass to Ceda... : Mt. Gardiner : Photo
By: SirTobyThe3rd When: Aug 10, 2016

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Comments: No way, everything in the Sierra that was worthy, has been climbed. :) Will likely add the climb on the CK in the future, it was really good honestly. Do you have an email?


Location: CA : High Sierra : 13 - Whitney and Surroundin... : Mt. Hitchcock
By: SirTobyThe3rd When: Aug 10, 2016

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Comments: C Brown, would be awesome if your friends or you could add a topo, aside from the overlay on the big trip report and a route description/rack beta. It looks like a cool buttress, the climb must of been fairly good? Scoty did not have much good to say about the two routes he put up with Gil, so I did not add those to this overlay, as I don't think he will add them. Alfred's Tooth looks BAD ASS!


Location: CA : High Sierra : 10 - Kearsarge Pass to Ceda... : Mt. Gardiner : Photo
By: SirTobyThe3rd When: Aug 10, 2016

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Comments: No and yes. This is the lake about 500 feet or so above the lake marked on the map as 10,859. We camped west of the peak. In the beautiful valley on the map you have linked. So to get back to camp, hike west from the summit, towards Gardiner pass and descent north into it and then hike up east towards wherever you establish the camp. Really pretty out there!
The approach we took was quite a fun outing. From roads end in the Kings Canyon, hiked up paradise creek, turn east up woods creek, up an ... more >>


Location: CA : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : Hamilton Lakes and Valhalla : Cherubim Dome : Dark Angels Have More Fun (5.9+ R) : Photo
By: SirTobyThe3rd When: Apr 29, 2016

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Comments: Camera angle :)
It is a nice route and the one next to it is even better!


Location: CA : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : Moro Rock (SEKI) : Modern Guilt (5.12) : Photo
By: SirTobyThe3rd When: Apr 12, 2016

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Comments: Great overlay!


Location: CA : High Sierra : 00 - Hoover Wilderness : Flatiron Butte (Shangri La)
By: SirTobyThe3rd When: Apr 11, 2016

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Comments: What is on this page is the beta. If you have further questions or want a topo let me know. I should make a topo...been lazy. Sorry.
The route up the middle have seen the First Ascent in 2014 and the other has seen the First Ascent in 2014. It is much more recent development than what is documented in Secor. I don't think this formation is in the Secor or any climbing guidebook.
NO LINES! :) And it is really good climbing on the Brutus of Wyde Memorial Route. Parasitic Nematode is a bit more h... more >>


Location: CA : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : Moro Rock (SEKI) : Modern Guilt (5.12) : Photo
By: SirTobyThe3rd When: Apr 9, 2016

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Comments: The one and only TomTom!!!


Location: Chad N in Central CA : Sequoia National Park, CA : Photo
By: SirTobyThe3rd When: Mar 28, 2016

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Comments: Hey! Great shot! :)


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : Rusty Cage (M7 PG13)
By: SirTobyThe3rd When: Feb 24, 2016

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Comments: Great climb, should be done often! A lot more sustained and exciting climbing than BBB. On the crux pitch, I clipped the bolt below the giant snow mushroom, hacked through it, pulled the bulge and continued up the dike feaure to the belay anchor. Thought that part was VERY runout above the bolt. Didn't see the 0.75 placement unfortunately, maybe the rest of the giant snow mushroom was covering it up? Anyway, enjoyed the climbing!


Location: CA : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : Hamilton Lakes and Valhalla : Hamilton Dome : The Subliminal Verses (5.10a/b)
By: SirTobyThe3rd When: Jan 31, 2016

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Comments: I remember those were only for about a few 100ft sections while traversing from the top of the ridge to the opening that led to the saddle. On the way in we somehow avoided most of it, but on the way back, went through a few shitty spots because we didn't want to ascent higher in order to avoid it.


Location: CA : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : Hamilton Lakes and Valhalla : Hamilton Dome : The Subliminal Verses (5.10a/b)
By: SirTobyThe3rd When: Jan 29, 2016

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Comments: Haha, we did not have to do much bush whacking coming up from the Hamilton Lake camp! It was maybe 1,500 feet of elevation gain with some steep gravel in places. Few sections of bushwhacking, but not bad! Will have to post a map of alternative approaches.

NO IDEA which one is THE BEST way. BUT I think, approaching from Crescent Meadow up the High Sierra trail, than cutting down and north from Bearpaw meadow, than cutting cross-country up Eagle Scout Creek. I heard of one guy from Bearpaw taking... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Widow's Tears Area : Widow's Tears (WI5)
By: SirTobyThe3rd When: Jan 6, 2016

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Comments: You should add the annotated photo of the pitches in your partner's TR and description of the pitches...


Location: CA : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : Moro Rock (SEKI) : South Face (5.7+)
By: SirTobyThe3rd When: Oct 19, 2015

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Comments: Found two bolts on P7 (slab runout). In my opinion it is a good thing they were added. 5.7-8 climbers will appreciate them greatly. My partner who sent a few 5.12 cracks was psyched to clip them too!


Location: CA : High Sierra : 00 - Hoover Wilderness : Flatiron Butte (Shangri La)
By: SirTobyThe3rd When: Sep 28, 2015

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Comments: You can add that one to the page, Split! :)

I guess 5 routes known, because there is a way to scramble up it from the back by 2nd or 3rd to easy 4th class, with multiple options.


Location: CA : High Sierra : 10 - Kearsarge Pass to Ceda... : Bubbs Creek Wall : The Emperor (5.12a PG13)
By: SirTobyThe3rd When: Jul 31, 2015

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Comments: +1 on linking those pitches. Intermediate belays do suck. For linking, you need a 70M rope. In case of 6 and 7 you can also stop on the block below and do a mini pitch to the belay ledge, that would eliminate a shitty belay stance. If you stop short of anchor though, pitch 8 is also about 58M! You wonÂ’t be able to get to the belay on top of the pitch if you start below the anchor and have a 60 M rope. So a short pitch to the belay would be required unless you have a 70 and link (best choice).
D... more >>


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Witch : Spook Book (5.10+ R)
By: SirTobyThe3rd When: May 26, 2015

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Comments: Impressions

P1 5.9 or 10- R to the first bolt. Move to the second bolt is semi impossible if you are short. For me at 6'2 it felt like a solid 5.10 at least to reach the holds on the right. No feet, got to heel hook and mantle
P2 5.11 solid trickery in one spot. Hope for fixed nuts here, if they are not there it will be mentally more challenging. Bring a single #2 cam which you can place in a good spot to protect the small traverse right. If you did it right, you can link this with the ne... more >>


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Sorcerer : Wailing Banshees (5.11a PG13)
By: SirTobyThe3rd When: May 26, 2015

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Comments: The crux on pitch two protects well enough. You can place gear, even though it is a bit fiddly, but it does not fall out and looks ok. I think offset purple/grey metolius is nice to have after the semi-fixed (hopefully still there when you do it) nut.

The real crux is the boulder problem to start the route. Very hard moves to clip the first bolt and than to get up from the bolt to the ramp above it is hard as hrll. Major decking potential if you blow the mantle. Was very happy that I was leadi... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : 10 - Kearsarge Pass to Ceda... : Castle Dome : Southeast Arete (5.10) : Photo
By: SirTobyThe3rd When: Aug 1, 2014

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Comments: Epic location! Couldn't believe this dike ran from left to right as far as my eyes could see. I wounder if it would be possible to do some kind of a campus route across the whole face. lol On the lamb 2.


Location: CA : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : Lower Tokopah Dome : Tokopah Reality (5.11a)
By: SirTobyThe3rd When: Jul 24, 2014

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Comments: It doesn't like you back! Wait till you climb it, you will change your mind!


Location: CA : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : Lower Tokopah Dome : Beauty and the Beast (5.11- A0) : Photo
By: SirTobyThe3rd When: Jul 24, 2014

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Comments: It is!


Location: CA : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : Santa Cruz Dome : Usually Its Sunny (5.10c) : Photo
By: SirTobyThe3rd When: Jun 2, 2014

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Comments: Fairly hot, can't deny.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Widow's Tears Area : Windchill (5.11a)
By: SirTobyThe3rd When: May 2, 2014

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Comments: It shows grade iv/v in the guidebook. Too bad there is no option to choose that, because I'd say it is less than a grade V but a bit more than a grade IV.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Cactus Flower Tower : Cactus Flower Tower Summit : The Warrior (5.11a)
By: SirTobyThe3rd When: May 2, 2014

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Comments: Good route. Good variety of climbing - chimneys, ow, fists, runout face and a delicate gingery crux. 4th pitch is fairly memorable when the birds are home. ;) Last two pitches are very worth doing. The climbing becomes more of a runout face, but is fun and takes you to a spot with a view of Mt. Wilson. Approach took our party of 4 under two hours, but we felt it was not super straight forward. Not as many cairns compared to approaching into watana, that's for sure! Its not as bad as pe... more >>


Location: MT : Hyalite Canyon : Genesis Area : Hang Over (WI3) : Photo
By: SirTobyThe3rd When: Apr 17, 2014

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Comments: Good times for sure! I miss Bozeman!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : The Fox Area : The Fox (5.10+)
By: SirTobyThe3rd When: Apr 1, 2014

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Comments: Would have lines at the base even at indian creek.

green alien (can be backed up with a blue alien) to protect the bouldery crack at the start. 1 .5 1.75 2 1s 1 #2, 2 4s 2 3s 1 #5, No 6 if you are comfortable on lower angle easy but awkward slanting OW


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