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Member Since: Apr 7, 2011
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Point Rank: # 758
Total Points: 863
Last Year: 164
Last 30 Days: 0
18 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 807 | Routes 41 | Areas 10 | Photos 43 | Page Improvements | Comments 88 | Posts 139 | Stars 305 | Ratings 181
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Mother's Day Party (5.10b)
By: Simon Thompson When: Nov 11, 2014

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Comments: If the cruxes on pitch 1 are 10b, that puts the pitch 2 crux at 10d in my book. Pitch 1 sports really great climbing with good gear. The crux on pitch 2 involves a super reachy move(look for hidden crimp to avoid dyno) from an undercling with pro in less than ideal rock. Fun climb!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Nurse's Aid (5.10c R)
By: Simon Thompson When: Nov 6, 2014

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Comments: I climbed this onsight and without any gear beta... Provided for a pretty intense experience! There is a large band of crap rock below the runout face on the first pitch. When this inevitably falls off the wall I hope nobody is around! I found the left side of the shit band to be the most stable. Used a sideways .4 in the slot a foot above the finger lock to protect the face: three good lobes and one flaring. Roof is mostly big holds with a reachy crux bump off a crimper rail.

Pitch two is a... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Directississima (5.10b)
By: Simon Thompson When: Nov 6, 2014

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Comments: While technically easy for the grade, this is one of the more sustained 10s I've done in the gunks. Great moves and great gear if you can hold on through the pump. 1 pitch to the top of the buttress is the way to go and makes an epic long pitch.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Adirondack Ice Climbing : Gothics : North Face (WI2 Easy Snow PG13)
By: Simon Thompson When: Aug 5, 2014

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Comments: With a proper topo map of the High Peaks area, the descents should be pretty obvious. The summit of Gothics isn't a very big place.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Grim-Ace Face (5.9+ PG13)
By: Simon Thompson When: Jul 24, 2014

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Comments: Held off on this one for quite some time and was a wee bit disappointed. That's what I get for having expectations! Pitch one has really nice face climbing with a bit o' run out. Pitch two has a fun roof(hard for the grade) and then 40' of climbing on suspect rock with some opportunities to move onto even more suspect rock. Pitch 3 is a blast!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Grand Central (5.9) : Photo
By: Simon Thompson When: Jul 17, 2014

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Comments: Sweet pic... great climb!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : The Blackout (5.9-)
By: Simon Thompson When: Jun 16, 2014

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Comments: The roof directly above the belay on P2 can be pulled directly but the pro is bad and rock questionable. Better to scamper left around the first one, make a awkward and reachy move to the right, and then continue up moving R past the other 'hangs.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Armadillo's Delight (5.10b/c PG13)
By: Simon Thompson When: Jun 3, 2014

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Comments: I thought I followed the route as described in grey Dick exactly but found the pro to be questionable and the holds lichen-covered. Maybe I was off-route? Or maybe different strokes for different folks...


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : Wegetables I've Never Seen ... (5.10a)
By: Simon Thompson When: May 27, 2014

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Comments: There is a good TR about 10' right of Wegetables that's fun to mess around on


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Uncle Rudy (5.7+ PG13)
By: Simon Thompson When: May 19, 2014

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Comments: While a little dirty, this climb is excellent if you've been around the block with some of the more popular 5.7s. It's a really nice to link the first two pitches but be careful because if you do this and blow it at the pitch 2 crux, you're looking at a 30+ footer into trees and a ledge.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Ruby Saturday Direct (5.10a)
By: Simon Thompson When: Apr 23, 2014

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Comments: 10a? Funny that this and neighboring Nemesis get the same grade in grey Dick. Thought the crux of this climb was an easy stand up on great feet with good protection.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Nemesis (5.10a)
By: Simon Thompson When: Apr 23, 2014

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Comments: Hmmmm... would have felt better with a bouldering pad. Once you figure out the beta it's not soooo bad but a fall in the first 10-15' would really suck. Once you're past the crux you get some way better holds to place gear from. I used the left crack and face holds and even got a wide stem over to the right crack. Fun climb.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Easy Rider (5.9 PG13)
By: Simon Thompson When: Apr 16, 2014

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Comments: My partner and I left Bacchus on a Sunday morning at 2AM full of beer muscles and disgust of the Sunday morning hordes so we decided to skip sleep(even after already getting up early and climbing all day Saturday) and go straight for the climb. After a pot of coffee and some loaded breakfast burritos we racked up and blasted up to the Nears. I started up the first pitch at 4:50. The committing crux of Outer Space had my tired ass shaking like a baby so I down-climbed and handed the rack over to ... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Alpine Diversions (5.8)
By: Simon Thompson When: Mar 21, 2014

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Comments: This climb is most effectively led with double ropes. It's easy to boulder up and place a small wire(tapered is nice) in the thin crack, then come down and chimney up to place a C3 a foot or two up and right for the other rope. Then you get to come down and chill out until you're ready to blast off. There is some run out on more moderate climbing toward the middle of the route and some dirty but fun jug and edge hauling up high. Good climb... deserves a more serious protection rating and more st... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Beginner's Delight (5.4)
By: Simon Thompson When: Dec 1, 2013

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Comments: After climbing this a bunch of times I have to say it still stands up as my favorite climb around this grade in the trapps. Great moves and positioning throughout. Do yourself a favor and climb this in the moonlight sometime.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Obstacle Delusion (5.9 PG13)
By: Simon Thompson When: Nov 24, 2013

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Comments: Easily linked both pitches with two ropes and running out most of the first pitch. The crux is pretty standard gunks 5.9 steep overhang and face. Overall the last 50ft are somewhat sustained. One of my favorite routes!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Le Teton (5.9+)
By: Simon Thompson When: Oct 20, 2013

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Comments: Really fun climb with a pumpy crux and an exposed finish on some absolutely massive jugs. I took a completely unexpected whip onto a solid #2 at the beginning of the crux traverse sequence.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Le Teton (5.9+) : Photo
By: Simon Thompson When: Oct 20, 2013

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Comments: I took almost the same fall! Nice shot


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Balrog (5.10b)
By: Simon Thompson When: Oct 20, 2013

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Comments: Sweet climb. The crux is hard to onsight if you're climbing near your limit but you get a great rest to figure it out from and the gear is bomber.


Location: WA : Northwest Region : North Cascades : Boston Basin : Mount Torment : Torment-Forbidden Traverse (5.6 Steep Snow)
By: Simon Thompson When: Sep 18, 2013

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Comments: Does anyone do this traverse by staying on or close to the ridge line? Didn't have much fun on all the loose scrambling after the first glacier traverse. Also, what are some quality routes on mt torment that provide better alternatives to the s ridge?


Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Horseshoe Wall : Photo
By: Simon Thompson When: Jun 27, 2013

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Comments: Do people climb any of the ice in this picture? Looks fun.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : Dick's Prick (5.6 PG13)
By: Simon Thompson When: Jun 19, 2013

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Comments: Climbed this route on Sunday and there IS a rap anchor on top.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : To Be Or Not To Be (5.11d R)
By: Simon Thompson When: Jun 4, 2013

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Comments: Top roped this yesterday and couldn't quite get past what I believe is the upper crux. It is definitely the most difficult section, though the moves below are technical and small. The sharp and tiny holds force you to really use your feet well. Takes some very small gear... would be a tough lead. Congrats to those who have led this!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : Almost Pure and Simple (5.8)
By: Simon Thompson When: Jun 2, 2013

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Comments: In addition, there is one rectangular block that looks a little questionable right near the top-out. To climbers' left of that is a very scary death-flake barely hanging on to a small loose ledge. Take care to keep your rope from running over/behind it.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : Wegetables I've Never Seen ... (5.10a)
By: Simon Thompson When: May 29, 2013

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Comments: This climb is "G" if you have small wires and micro C3s(or equivalent) to protect the first 10 or 15 ft. After that the climbing is a straightforward but pumpy romp. Too bad you don't have to use the crack more, the one necessary finger-lock is indeed memorable!


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