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Member Since: Apr 7, 2011
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Simon Thompson

Point Rank: # 847
Total Points: 941
Last Year: 66
Last 30 Days: 0
19 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Simon Thompson been climbing?










Contributions


All 892 | Routes 47 | Areas 10 | Photos 44 | Page Improvements | Comments 100 | Posts 143 | Stars 356 | Ratings 192
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Mother's Day Party (5.10b)
By: Simon Thompson When: May 27, 2016

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Comments: Pawel, Mother's Day Party P2 goes left of MF through the roof at a rectangular break with tricky gear and devious beta. Birdie Party P2 fires the roof further left at a left-facing flake that comes out to the lip, and involves a strenuous heel hook.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : Carbs and Caffeine (5.11a)
By: Simon Thompson When: May 18, 2016

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Comments: Attempted P2 onsight last week. With the shiny new bolts this feels really safe and accessible at the 11a grade. The only runout part is when you diagonal up and right after bolt number two but this is on 5.8 terrain and probably the about the only low-angle part on the pitch. The fixed anchor at the lip of the final roof should be removed or replaced. The pitons are movable by hand and the static rope that comprises the rigging is incredibly sun-bleached. It's pretty easy to place a bomber piec... more >>


Location: ME : Katahdin : All Winter Ice Routes - Chi... : Pamola West Ridge(Pamola II... (Easy 5th WI3- M2)
By: Simon Thompson When: Mar 11, 2016

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Comments: On our first trip to Katahdin, and after enduring poor weather, snowfall, and several nights below -5F in the lean-to, Owen and I finally got redemption and climbed this route as the capstone of our trip. We simul-climbed the ice slabs to the foot of the ridge. We climbed the ridge proper in 5 long pitches with a 70m rope, most of which involved a little simul climbing. We found the climbing to be great fun with lots of moderate mixed climbing to be had in short spurts where you are so inclined.... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Tetonia (5.10b PG13)
By: Simon Thompson When: Dec 21, 2015

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Comments: Did this again a week ago. Really cool route with dramatic positioning. Bonus: even when every 5.10 at the Mac wall is being hang-dogged and there are 4 parties on Madame Gs you can almost always find this route open! The rap line does not interfere with leading this. There are two techie steep face cruxes up high on the Right side of the arĂȘte in a beautiful section of white rock. Stay Left of Le Teton's crack to keep an independent line. Before the cruxes it's possible to step a few feet Righ... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Suppers Ready (5.12-)
By: Simon Thompson When: Dec 21, 2015

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Comments: As of yesterday (12/20/15) there is a fixed anchor of cams and Tricams above the hard climbing and below the GT ledge that allows you to lower off with a 70m, but keep an eye on(or knot) the end of the rope, it can be really close depending on where your belayer is standing.

Awesome, pumpy route with two short bouldery cruxes separated by the biggest holds you'll ever be tempted to fall off of. Clean falls and great gear. Two fixed wires below each crux significantly reduces the pump of placin... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Epinephrine (5.9)
By: Simon Thompson When: Dec 9, 2015

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Comments: My buddy and I climbed this on a cold November day as our very first red rocks route. We had an awesome type II fun trial by fire experience and the whole ordeal took us 17.5 hrs car to car. The wide part of the chimney with the two bolts gave us a lot of trouble because we are Gunkies and have very little chimney experience. Needless to say we had quite a struggle fighting up the inside of the chimney, desperate for gear. As stated above a pack can be a pain in the ass in the chimney unless you... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Beginner's Delight (5.4)
By: Simon Thompson When: Nov 3, 2015

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Comments: P2 protects fine IMO. You may have to make a move or two up from the best line to place gear. Poke around and you'll find some good stuff.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : Shit Creek (5.7)
By: Simon Thompson When: Nov 2, 2015

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Comments: I didn't climb the upper pitches but P1 has great climbing. The rap anchor atop P1 consists of two disgusting pitons, a nut, a small hex, and two tricams. The cord equalizing said pieces was in atrocious condition and was replaced by my partner on 10/31/15. Take care near the top of the pitch, as the huge pillar of rock just right of the climbing contains many precarious death blocks.


Location: NH : WM: Pinkham / Presidentials : Huntington Ravine
By: Simon Thompson When: Aug 31, 2015

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Comments: Yesterday we showed up late for the conga line on the northeast buttress of the pinnacle so we decided to do something different. We climbed an 800' line on the jumbled buttress to the right of pinnacle gully. It was a full on adventure with extreme run outs, suspect rock, and bush wallowing. We found 5 old pitons en route, one of which slid right out when I grabbed it. The line we took went at around 5.9G(5.4X) C1 4 roped pitches with the crux coming at a steep left-facing corner on pitch 1. Do... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Baskerville Terrace (5.7 PG13)
By: Simon Thompson When: Aug 6, 2015

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Comments: A classic climb when linked with the yellow ridge.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Grand Central (5.9)
By: Simon Thompson When: Jul 30, 2015

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Comments: Mostly a 5.6 jug haul with a 15' 5.9 crux and a two-move 5.8 boulder problem to top out. I second rgold's above comment. I used double ropes and only clipped the right rope until I could pass the left rope around the tree from just above it. I then ran it out to the horizontal that begins the traverse to the nose, and placed bombed gear there with a double-length sling clipped to the left rope. Like this, the climb protected beautifully for my second and I experienced zero rope drag. Good climb!... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Welcome to the Gunks (5.10b PG13)
By: Simon Thompson When: Apr 9, 2015

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Comments: I thought the orange face below the crux roof was well protected for the face itself, but the stand up move to the stance below the crux is very balancy and will be harder when that block eventually gets yanked out. How it's even holding on now is beyond me. If you blew it clipping from the crunched stance below the roof you would probably smack the low-angle area above the first roof pretty hard. I can see this one sketchy part warranting a PG-13 or R rating. Other than that one spot the climb ... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Badfinger (5.9+ PG13)
By: Simon Thompson When: Apr 9, 2015

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Comments: This is one of those 5.9+ that felt harder for me than many 5.10- and 5.10a. Tricky moves and tricky gear.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Mother's Day Party (5.10b)
By: Simon Thompson When: Nov 11, 2014

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Comments: If the cruxes on pitch 1 are 10b, that puts the pitch 2 crux at 10d in my book. Pitch 1 sports really great climbing with good gear. The crux on pitch 2 involves a super reachy move(look for hidden crimp to avoid dyno) from an undercling with pro in less than ideal rock. Fun climb!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Nurse's Aid (5.10c R)
By: Simon Thompson When: Nov 6, 2014

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Comments: I climbed this onsight and without any gear beta... Provided for a pretty intense experience! There is a large band of crap rock below the runout face on the first pitch. When this inevitably falls off the wall I hope nobody is around! I found the left side of the shit band to be the most stable. Used a sideways .4 in the slot a foot above the finger lock to protect the face: three good lobes and one flaring. Roof is mostly big holds with a reachy crux bump off a crimper rail.

Pitch two is a... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Directississima (5.10b)
By: Simon Thompson When: Nov 6, 2014

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Comments: While technically easy for the grade, this is one of the more sustained 10s I've done in the gunks. Great moves and great gear if you can hold on through the pump. 1 pitch to the top of the buttress is the way to go and makes an epic long pitch.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Adirondack Ice Climbing : Gothics : North Face (WI2 PG13)
By: Simon Thompson When: Aug 5, 2014

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Comments: With a proper topo map of the High Peaks area, the descents should be pretty obvious. The summit of Gothics isn't a very big place.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Grim-Ace Face (5.9+ PG13)
By: Simon Thompson When: Jul 24, 2014

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Comments: Held off on this one for quite some time and was a wee bit disappointed. That's what I get for having expectations! Pitch one has really nice face climbing with a bit o' run out. Pitch two has a fun roof(hard for the grade) and then 40' of climbing on suspect rock with some opportunities to move onto even more suspect rock. Pitch 3 is a blast!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Grand Central (5.9) : Photo
By: Simon Thompson When: Jul 17, 2014

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Comments: Sweet pic... great climb!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : The Blackout (5.9-)
By: Simon Thompson When: Jun 16, 2014

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Comments: The roof directly above the belay on P2 can be pulled directly but the pro is bad and rock questionable. Better to scamper left around the first one, make a awkward and reachy move to the right, and then continue up moving R past the other 'hangs.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Armadillo's Delight (5.10b/c PG13)
By: Simon Thompson When: Jun 3, 2014

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Comments: I thought I followed the route as described in grey Dick exactly but found the pro to be questionable and the holds lichen-covered. Maybe I was off-route? Or maybe different strokes for different folks...


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : Wegetables I've Never Seen ... (5.10a)
By: Simon Thompson When: May 27, 2014

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Comments: There is a good TR about 10' right of Wegetables that's fun to mess around on


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Uncle Rudy (5.7+ PG13)
By: Simon Thompson When: May 19, 2014

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Comments: While a little dirty, this climb is excellent if you've been around the block with some of the more popular 5.7s. It's a really nice to link the first two pitches but be careful because if you do this and blow it at the pitch 2 crux, you're looking at a 30+ footer into trees and a ledge.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Ruby Saturday Direct (5.10a)
By: Simon Thompson When: Apr 23, 2014

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Comments: 10a? Funny that this and neighboring Nemesis get the same grade in grey Dick. Thought the crux of this climb was an easy stand up on great feet with good protection.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Nemesis (5.10a)
By: Simon Thompson When: Apr 23, 2014

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Comments: Hmmmm... would have felt better with a bouldering pad. Once you figure out the beta it's not soooo bad but a fall in the first 10-15' would really suck. Once you're past the crux you get some way better holds to place gear from. I used the left crack and face holds and even got a wide stem over to the right crack. Fun climb.


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