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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Minty (5.4) : Photo
By: Simon Thompson When: May 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is a fantastic crack up and left for 2 C3s and a little blue c4. Makes for a safe and comfortable belay.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : No Solution (5.12a)
By: Simon Thompson When: Apr 29, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome job leading this thing.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : No Glow (5.9)
By: Simon Thompson When: Apr 29, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought the section above the crux on P2 was a bit run-out.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Falled on Account of Strain (5.10b)
By: Simon Thompson When: Apr 29, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Williams guidebook describes the first pitch as starting with 5.6 R face climbing "a few feet" left of the thin seam. Maybe I'm a sissy but we could not find any such thing. Ended up doing a LONG traverse in from the left(5.7ish) to avoid the apparent 5.8+/5.9 moves 15' off the deck. Once you get the .75 in the horizontal it's fun crimpy 5.9 into some more run out 5.7 to a horizontal and then the bolts. Pitch 2 is pumpy and fun. I took a fall onto the piton from the last lip. You could back ... more >>
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : Casablanca (5.9)
By: Simon Thompson When: Apr 27, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Another one of those astounding Gunks crux flakes!
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Triangle (5.9)
By: Simon Thompson When: Apr 27, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah if you do the direct variation it's 5.9 PG. I have small stuff and fiddled around for a while but it was still a little sparse. It's balancy, think Three Doves.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Baby (5.6)
By: Simon Thompson When: Apr 27, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I second the above comment about a #4 being pretty adequate with a #5 making this very well protected. Either way, just stuff yourself into the big-ass crack(you can get a single leg-jam rest before the crux if you're a fatass like me) and you won't fall. Squirm up to the jug. This climb is probably my favorite 5.6 in the Gunks. A very direct and striking line with an awesome off-width and an awesome corner on P2 that is as good or better than say... Maria's corner. The only downside... more >>
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Middle Earth (5.6)
By: Simon Thompson When: Apr 27, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you do the crux on p3 the absolute easiest way I'd still say it's hard 5.6. First pitch is phenomenal... probably the best/most sustained pitch of 5.5/5.6 in the Gunks with some great crack climbing to boot!
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Hans' Puss (5.7)
By: Simon Thompson When: Apr 27, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: First pitch has fun corner and overhanging jug moves. Somehow I ended up 10' above the bolts after that pitch. The downclimb to them was fun in the dark. Rightward traverse is pretty exposed and exciting. It's all there though just stay sharp. Pitch 3 corner is worthwhile as well. Great climb.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : Millbrook : Westward Ha! (5.7)
By: Simon Thompson When: Apr 12, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Because we had nothing but a 1980 guidebook to go on and in our hungover state neglected to check Mountain Project... getting to this route was a true adventure for us. We approached by hiking to the top of Millbrook, then continuing down the Southern flank to where it was possible to downclimb/tree swim/rappel to a prominent tree ledge. We mistakenly ended up on the lower of the two main ledges that traverse the cliff so we had to climb a pitch of unstable(scary) rock and some of the largest li... more >>
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Dir... (5.7+) : Photo
By: Simon Thompson When: Mar 29, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: on rappel or hanging belay from the top right?
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Dir... (5.7+)
By: Simon Thompson When: Mar 29, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: On the third pitch variation: The individual moves aren't harder than 7+ or 8-, the handholds are huge, and there are decent feet if you look. It is, however, very pumpy to rest and place gear to protect your follower. I'm not really sure about the integrity of the pitons but there are some pretty good cam placements. Great, exciting pitch!
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Adirondack Ice Climbing : Crane Mountain : Southeast Slopes : Immigrant Song (WI3+ M2+)
By: Simon Thompson When: Feb 25, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: What a little joy of a climb! Dropped a tool during the middle crux before the tree which made it a little more interesting. Nice line!
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : High Peaks : Avalanche Mountain : Avalanche Mountain Gully (WI4-)
By: Simon Thompson When: Feb 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this on 2/17/13 in a party of 3. We soloed the first 200 feet or so of snow with a moderate(WI3 25') ice step. The curtain that forms the final crux cave was barely touching down and was extremely fragile in the single digit temps. The cave exit consisted of a thin traverse to a mixed exit up to a "thank god" sling(old and should be replaced) on a birch.
Gear: When it's thick, normal rack of screws is fine. In thin conditions, a selection of nuts, a couple mid-sized cams, and a specter... more >>
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Adirondack Ice Climbing : North Face of Pitchoff : Screw and Climaxe (WI3+)
By: Simon Thompson When: Feb 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are many different lines possible here... maybe up to 6 or so if the ice is fat enough. On some of the variations rock pro may be helpful. Typically thin down low and better toward the top. Some of the finishes are good grade 4 and some are more 3+ish. Plan your route from the bottom so you don't get stranded without a belay. If you climb the right side you can make it to a birch belay with a 60m rope.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Bloody Bush (5.7)
By: Simon Thompson When: Nov 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun climb. First pitch is fun 5.6 with a few questionable holds/blocks. P2 is a two-move wonder. The first move off the ledge was a bit weird/awkward for me. From there it's an easy(if you find the best way) traverse into a high-step/lieback crux then up much easier climbing to the top.
For both pitches, it is optimal to skip the first encountered belay/rap station. On the first pitch, continue up and left another 15 or 20 ft to another tree and belay there. At the top out on pitch two, do not... more >>
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Arch (5.5)
By: Simon Thompson When: Nov 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A fun outing and a classic at the grade. If you set it up right and don't mind a wee bit of run-out you can protect this well for your follower and avoid rope drag. I thought P1 was on the easy-ish end of gunks 5.5 while P2 crux is definitely hard for the grade.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : MF (5.9)
By: Simon Thompson When: Nov 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Amazing climb. Accidentally climbed the direct variation. I'd probably call it 10a or 10- with some PG-13. It's impressive that the crux flake on P2 remains intact. I really yarded on it...
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Modern Times (5.8+) : Photo
By: Simon Thompson When: Nov 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is really a sweet photo. You can keep your feet on if you want but it's pretty fun to cut them. Really helps you appreciate the exposure.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Directissima (5.9)
By: Simon Thompson When: Nov 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: That reachy 5.9 move really got my goat. I pulled on my draw on the piton. My partner who is shorter than me made the move look easy though. Traverse is easy but pumpy. Finished on the last pitch of High E in the dark with one headlamp. Classic outing.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Retribution (5.10b)
By: Simon Thompson When: Nov 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Placed an odd-looking .75 behind the "rest jug" before the crux moves instead of placing pro in the finger pocket. Doing so made the crux much much easier. Above the crux the are a few good rests and then a tougher move(maybe 5.9 or so) to a good jug.
Also fell from a few feet above the .75 a few weeks ago and it held fine.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : The Blackout (5.9-)
By: Simon Thompson When: Nov 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first two pitches are fun with a few balancy moves. If you're confident leading 5.8, the run out to the bolt on P3 shouldn't be much of a problem. There is a good hold to clip from but you definitely wouldn't want to blow it there. I thought the crux roof was pretty easy for Gunks 5.9 but really fun nonetheless. Also, we climbed under and directly out of the first roof on P2. It was fun as hell but I thought the rock was somewhat questionable.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Hyjek's Horror (5.8+ R)
By: Simon Thompson When: Nov 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: What a sweet little climb! Leading this climb was suuuuuuch great experience for me. Be careful! Gear is good but there are definitely a few moves you really don't want to fall on. I used the purple cam down low as mentioned above.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Moss Cliff : Hard Times (5.9+)
By: Simon Thompson When: Nov 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Such a great line. Definitely one of my favorite climbs anywhere. On P2 after the stellar(although short) corner lieback, you can face/friction climb out left instead of climbing the dirty crack. P3 throws all sorts of challenges at you and keeps your attention the whole way. I traversed out to the optional belay(Spirit of Adventure) to shake out and was surprised by the balancy moves required to get back into the corner below the crux.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Beer Walls : Frosted Mug (5.9)
By: Simon Thompson When: Nov 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Whew! Definitely strenuous to verify gear placements on this one. Gave me a nice pump and a wee bit of the good ol' leg shake. The "R" section at the bottom doesn't pose too much of a problem as there are solid feet up into the corner.
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