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Photo by Tony Lopez


Member Since: Apr 7, 2011
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
Contact Simon Thompson


Point Rank: # 811
Total Points: 731
Last Year: 82
Last 30 Days: 32
16 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



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Contributions


All (711) | Routes (29) | Areas (10) | Photos (43) | Comments (76) | Posts (136) | Stars (259) | Ratings (158)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Easy Rider (5.9 PG13)
By: Simon Thompson When: 1 day ago

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Comments: My partner and I left Bacchus on a Sunday morning at 2AM full of beer muscles and disgust of the Sunday morning hordes so we decided to skip sleep(even after already getting up early and climbing all day Saturday) and go straight for the climb. After a pot of coffee and some loaded breakfast burritos we racked up and blasted up to the Nears. I started up the first pitch at 4:50. The committing crux of Outer Space had my tired ass shaking like a baby so I down-climbed and handed the rack over to ... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Alpine Diversions (5.8)
By: Simon Thompson When: Mar 21, 2014

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Comments: This climb is most effectively led with double ropes. It's easy to boulder up and place a small wire(tapered is nice) in the thin crack, then come down and chimney up to place a C3 a foot or two up and right for the other rope. Then you get to come down and chill out until you're ready to blast off. There is some run out on more moderate climbing toward the middle of the route and some dirty but fun jug and edge hauling up high. Good climb... deserves a more serious protection rating and more st... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Beginner's Delight (5.4)
By: Simon Thompson When: Dec 1, 2013

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Comments: After climbing this a bunch of times I have to say it still stands up as my favorite climb around this grade in the trapps. Great moves and positioning throughout. Do yourself a favor and climb this in the moonlight sometime.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Obstacle Delusion (5.9 PG13)
By: Simon Thompson When: Nov 24, 2013

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Comments: Easily linked both pitches with two ropes and running out most of the first pitch. The crux is pretty standard gunks 5.9 steep overhang and face. Overall the last 50ft are somewhat sustained. One of my favorite routes!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Le Teton (5.9+)
By: Simon Thompson When: Oct 20, 2013

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Comments: Really fun climb with a pumpy crux and an exposed finish on some absolutely massive jugs. I took a completely unexpected whip onto a solid #2 at the beginning of the crux traverse sequence.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Le Teton (5.9+) : Photo
By: Simon Thompson When: Oct 20, 2013

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Comments: I took almost the same fall! Nice shot


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Balrog (5.10b)
By: Simon Thompson When: Oct 20, 2013

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Comments: Sweet climb. The crux is hard to onsight if you're climbing near your limit but you get a great rest to figure it out from and the gear is bomber.


Location: WA : Northwest Region : North Cascades : Boston Basin : Mount Torment : Torment-Forbidden Traverse (5.6 Steep Snow)
By: Simon Thompson When: Sep 18, 2013

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Comments: Does anyone do this traverse by staying on or close to the ridge line? Didn't have much fun on all the loose scrambling after the first glacier traverse. Also, what are some quality routes on mt torment that provide better alternatives to the s ridge?


Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Horseshoe Wall : Photo
By: Simon Thompson When: Jun 27, 2013

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Comments: Do people climb any of the ice in this picture? Looks fun.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : Dick's Prick (5.6 PG13)
By: Simon Thompson When: Jun 19, 2013

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Comments: Climbed this route on Sunday and there IS a rap anchor on top.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : To Be Or Not To Be (5.11d R)
By: Simon Thompson When: Jun 4, 2013

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Comments: Top roped this yesterday and couldn't quite get past what I believe is the upper crux. It is definitely the most difficult section, though the moves below are technical and small. The sharp and tiny holds force you to really use your feet well. Takes some very small gear... would be a tough lead. Congrats to those who have led this!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : Almost Pure and Simple (5.8)
By: Simon Thompson When: Jun 2, 2013

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Comments: In addition, there is one rectangular block that looks a little questionable right near the top-out. To climbers' left of that is a very scary death-flake barely hanging on to a small loose ledge. Take care to keep your rope from running over/behind it.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : Wegetables I've Never Seen ... (5.10a)
By: Simon Thompson When: May 29, 2013

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Comments: This climb is "G" if you have small wires and micro C3s(or equivalent) to protect the first 10 or 15 ft. After that the climbing is a straightforward but pumpy romp. Too bad you don't have to use the crack more, the one necessary finger-lock is indeed memorable!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Minty (5.4) : Photo
By: Simon Thompson When: May 6, 2013

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Comments: There is a fantastic crack up and left for 2 C3s and a little blue c4. Makes for a safe and comfortable belay.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : No Solution (5.12a)
By: Simon Thompson When: Apr 29, 2013

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Comments: Awesome job leading this thing.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : No Glow (5.9)
By: Simon Thompson When: Apr 29, 2013

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Comments: I thought the section above the crux on P2 was a bit run-out.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Falled on Account of Strain (5.10b)
By: Simon Thompson When: Apr 29, 2013

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Comments: The Williams guidebook describes the first pitch as starting with 5.6 R face climbing "a few feet" left of the thin seam. Maybe I'm a sissy but we could not find any such thing. Ended up doing a LONG traverse in from the left(5.7ish) to avoid the apparent 5.8+/5.9 moves 15' off the deck. Once you get the .75 in the horizontal it's fun crimpy 5.9 into some more run out 5.7 to a horizontal and then the bolts. Pitch 2 is pumpy and fun. I took a fall onto the piton from the last lip. You could back ... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : Casablanca (5.9)
By: Simon Thompson When: Apr 27, 2013

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Comments: Another one of those astounding Gunks crux flakes!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Triangle (5.9)
By: Simon Thompson When: Apr 27, 2013

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Comments: Yeah if you do the direct variation it's 5.9 PG. I have small stuff and fiddled around for a while but it was still a little sparse. It's balancy, think Three Doves.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Baby (5.6)
By: Simon Thompson When: Apr 27, 2013

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Comments: I second the above comment about a #4 being pretty adequate with a #5 making this very well protected. Either way, just stuff yourself into the big-ass crack(you can get a single leg-jam rest before the crux if you're a fatass like me) and you won't fall. Squirm up to the jug. This climb is probably my favorite 5.6 in the Gunks. A very direct and striking line with an awesome off-width and an awesome corner on P2 that is as good or better than say... Maria's corner. The only downside... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Middle Earth (5.6)
By: Simon Thompson When: Apr 27, 2013

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Comments: If you do the crux on p3 the absolute easiest way I'd still say it's hard 5.6. First pitch is phenomenal... probably the best/most sustained pitch of 5.5/5.6 in the Gunks with some great crack climbing to boot!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Hans' Puss (5.7)
By: Simon Thompson When: Apr 27, 2013

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Comments: First pitch has fun corner and overhanging jug moves. Somehow I ended up 10' above the bolts after that pitch. The downclimb to them was fun in the dark. Rightward traverse is pretty exposed and exciting. It's all there though just stay sharp. Pitch 3 corner is worthwhile as well. Great climb.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Millbrook : Westward Ha! (5.7)
By: Simon Thompson When: Apr 12, 2013

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Comments: Because we had nothing but a 1980 guidebook to go on and in our hungover state neglected to check Mountain Project... getting to this route was a true adventure for us. We approached by hiking to the top of Millbrook, then continuing down the Southern flank to where it was possible to downclimb/tree swim/rappel to a prominent tree ledge. We mistakenly ended up on the lower of the two main ledges that traverse the cliff so we had to climb a pitch of unstable(scary) rock and some of the largest li... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Dir... (5.7+) : Photo
By: Simon Thompson When: Mar 29, 2013

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Comments: on rappel or hanging belay from the top right?


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Dir... (5.7+)
By: Simon Thompson When: Mar 29, 2013

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Comments: On the third pitch variation: The individual moves aren't harder than 7+ or 8-, the handholds are huge, and there are decent feet if you look. It is, however, very pumpy to rest and place gear to protect your follower. I'm not really sure about the integrity of the pitons but there are some pretty good cam placements. Great, exciting pitch!


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