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Me placing a cam at the crux - photo courtesy G. Helm


Member Since: Apr 22, 2010
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact Simon Hatfield


Point Rank: # 2,179
Total Points: 252
Last Year: 5
Last 30 Days: 0
35 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Simon Hatfield been climbing?










Contributions


All 435 | Routes 2 | Areas 2 | Photos 27 | Page Improvments | Comments 67 | Posts 53 | Stars 248 | Ratings 36
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : La Milagrosa Canyon : Main Wall : Litheon Flux (5.11)
By: Simon Hatfield When: Jan 29, 2013

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Comments: I bailed off of the second to last bolt, intimidated by how close i was coming to the ledge as I fell. Hard up top


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : La Milagrosa Canyon : Main Wall : Four Play (5.11a)
By: Simon Hatfield When: Jan 29, 2013

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Comments: Great route! Continuous and thoughtful with cool, positive holds, and one great hands free rest. This place has very solid grades!


Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : River Road Dihedrals : Root Canal (5.8+)
By: Simon Hatfield When: Nov 22, 2012

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Comments: I firmly believe that safely bolting sick moderates like this is a huge service to the climbing community. Good on ya, and nice find! This would be the ideal first lead - short, fully bolted, ridiculously secure clips, and clean falls.

This would be nicely shaded and great on a hot day, but probably uncomfortably chilly in <50 weather.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Baby Blue (5.11a)
By: Simon Hatfield When: Nov 21, 2012

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Comments: Hanging on a tips lock to clip the anchor without grabbing the chain is the crux on this one, a very different route to lead than to TR due to the last couple feet.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Kor-Ingalls Route (5.9)
By: Simon Hatfield When: Nov 21, 2012

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Comments: Be ready for a stout, insecure, P3 crux that is well protected by an excellent bolt. Found this move harder than anything on Open Book, "the" 5.9.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Jumbo Rock Area : Conan's Corridor : Spiderman (5.10a)
By: Simon Hatfield When: Nov 5, 2012

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Comments: Hard for sure, and a tad grainy. I brought a #5 and #6, the #5 was nice to have.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Citadel Crag : Citadel Crack (5.10b)
By: Simon Hatfield When: Jun 19, 2012

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Comments: Climbed this great route today, there are two shiny 3/8" bolts at the top for a rap anchor.


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear South : Arctic Temple
By: Simon Hatfield When: Jun 3, 2012

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Comments: A scenic, enjoyable climbing area, that makes for a great outing for a 5.10 trad leader. You're almost guaranteed to get this spot to yourself. We brought two ropes, and set up a fixed rap line that we used all day. On the last climb, the 2nd just brought up the gear we'd brought down, so we avoided using the loose, steep, gully altogether.

While this area made for a great day, I was vaguely disappointed in the broken nature of the climbing and the rock quality (which is still pretty good). The... more >>


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear South : Arctic Temple : Land of the Midnight Sun (5.10a/b)
By: Simon Hatfield When: Jun 3, 2012

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Comments: The awkward 3" opening splitter crack leans heavily to the right, moving parallel to the steep hillside. As a result, you don't really get out of groundfall range for a while with this one, and you'll want at least 2 #3 cams to protect it adequately. I thought this was challenging for the grade


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear South : Arctic Temple : Hoodoo Temple (5.10c)
By: Simon Hatfield When: Jun 3, 2012

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Comments: Soft for the grade, even if you do the contrived, grainy, loose, poorly protected, crux. And why would you? It certainly doesn't add anything to the route except for danger.


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear South : Arctic Temple : Kaleidescope (5.10c)
By: Simon Hatfield When: Jun 3, 2012

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Comments: Best route on the wall in my opinion, although the flow is unfortunately broken up by a ledge. Care is required to protect the opening adequately, and I was happy to have two 4" pieces for the offwidth section, although 1 #4 and 1 #5 would have been great too.


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear South : Arctic Temple : Drunks in Tow (5.10b)
By: Simon Hatfield When: Jun 3, 2012

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Comments: Crux moves are the very end, with a dangerous fall onto a ledge, with the only opportunity for protection an ~8mm splitter crack. My smallest cam (a purple 00 C3) was too large, and the crack is too uniform to take a stopper well. Probably best to avoid leading this variation unless you're solid on 5.10, or have very tiny active gear (Ball Nuts?).


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear South : Arctic Temple : Arctic Arete (5.10d)
By: Simon Hatfield When: Jun 3, 2012

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Comments: Definitely 10+ off the ground - offset, and gently left leaning - but its really only 15' of crack. The arete is much easier, and has nice exposure.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : The Astro Domes : South Astro Dome : ... : Solid Gold (5.10a)
By: Simon Hatfield When: May 25, 2012

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Comments: Only did the first pitch, but it was pretty free of bird droppings. If someone had told me this was .10c I wouldn't have argued.

Its definitely as hard as the similarly styled Run for Your Life, (.10b) which I did right after.

I thought it was a classic pitch, especially because it is such a different style of climbing from anything else in the park.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Northeast Buttress : Etude (5.11a)
By: Simon Hatfield When: May 15, 2012

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Comments: You can get down to 3rd class terrain by rapping climber's right with a 60m rope from the anchors atop p1, so don't worry if you don't have a 70.

Also, this route is equipped with those great rounded metolius hangars that you can thread your rope right through. Convenient!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Blob : The Blob - East Face : Surrealistic Pillar (5.10c)
By: Simon Hatfield When: May 3, 2012

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Comments: Make sure that you do the straight-up finish, as it certainly contains the best moves on the route, and goes at airy 5.9 with "thoughtful" pro. With the direct finish, 3 stars out of 4. Without, maybe only 1 or 2. Were the rock on this route more solid, it would be an undisputed classic.

Despite looking wide, I surprisingly ended up using nothing larger than a #.75 C4 on the route, including some C3's and RP's. Bring bigger stuff too though, as the anchor takes gear 1-4"


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Gateway Rock : Semi Tough (5.10d)
By: Simon Hatfield When: Apr 27, 2012

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Comments: I laughed at Tony B's comment, quite the astute observation. I didn't think this one deserved the upgrade in the new Miramontes guide - i found it "techier" than Imaginary Voyage, for example, but no more difficult.

This route has more of a "downclimb" than a "walkoff". I headed down climber's left, which worked ok, at 4th+


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Drug Dome : OZ (5.10d) : Photo
By: Simon Hatfield When: Apr 21, 2012

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Comments: Whoa!!!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Sargeant Rock : Sergeant Pepper (5.11b)
By: Simon Hatfield When: Apr 12, 2012

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Comments: Thoughtful, sustained, well protected friction (if a tad grainy). Crux is delicate and powerful. Convenient bolt anchor for toproping (HUGE 14mm 50kN Petzl glue ins)


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Queen Mountain : Olympic Dome : Icon (5.10c)
By: Simon Hatfield When: Mar 30, 2012

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Comments: I was thrilled with this one. Fabulous rock with secure, just-past-vertical jamming and straightforward gear in the most beautiful locale in the park.

As Murf said, a pair of screw-links would allow a convenient ~90' rappel from the two bolt anchor, but the downclimb (over the top, then climbers right) is doable if you don't want to leave gear.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Queen Mountain : Walt's Rocks : Lower Walt's Rocks : Perfect Fingers (5.10a)
By: Simon Hatfield When: Mar 30, 2012

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Comments: A long, but phenomenal approach to a super beautiful area - doesn't feel like you're in Joshua Tree at all. The route itself is really good, but much more awkward than I was expecting.

I couldn't find the above mentioned tricam, but there was a nice purple link cam stuck in the upper crack. I spent about 20 minutes on it before giving up.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Sports Challenge Rock : Sports Challenge Rock - Wes... : Ride a Wild Bago (5.10a R)
By: Simon Hatfield When: Mar 17, 2012

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Comments: You won't regret bringing a #4 on this route, although it could totally be done without it.

Easier than Sphincter Quits


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : Echo Rock - South Face : ... : Photo
By: Simon Hatfield When: Mar 14, 2012

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Comments: Rad!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Chimney Rock : Chimney Rock - East Face : The Flue (5.8)
By: Simon Hatfield When: Mar 14, 2012

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Comments: There is definitely a trick to this route - a much harder and scarier onsight than it is a repeat lead.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Future Games Rock : Invisibility Lessons (5.9)
By: Simon Hatfield When: Mar 14, 2012

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Comments: If you blow it in the polished section before the first placement, it would be easy to crack an ankle on the angular, buried blocks.


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