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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Three Hour Buttress : Three Hour Arete (5.10c)
By: sibylle When: 5 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome route - good job! We encountered no rockfall nor loose rocks.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Three Hour Buttress : Photo
By: sibylle When: 5 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Gear - I used only one #3 Cam, and no #4; but did use a very tiny cam (old 0.1, new 00 I think) and a green alien on pitch 1. The anchor for Pitch 1 consists of one bolt plus cams in the crack.
We climbed as a party of three, and got our rope caught when trying to rappel from the top with a double rope - better to do four single rope raps; than longer ones. Lots of bushes and flakes to catch the rope.
Also - there's a bolted rap anchor with hooks to the right of ... more >>
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Sheelite Canyon / Pratt's C... : ... : Chronic (5.12a)
By: sibylle When: May 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Warning -- loose flake.
The flake near the 4th bolt is loose, and it could come off if a climber pulls on it unknowingly and hit the belayer.
( I did not climb this - was the photographer.)
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Barber Wall : Lichen Delight (5.11a)
By: sibylle When: Apr 30, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was the first time I climbed a first ascent of a route, with a climbing partner. We saw this great crack that was harder than anything my partner or I could climb ... and we were into aid climbing in those days. I was trying to learn to aid climb so I could climb Yosemite walls ....
Anyway, I'm glad it turned out to be such a good free climb. If I ever return to Cathedral, I'll try to free climb it (with an appropriate rope gun. The days when I was regularly leading 5.11 came and went al... more >>
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Thin Air Face : Thinner (5.8 R)
By: sibylle When: Apr 30, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hmmm - this is where I learned to lead years ago, when I was in my teens. I think it was one of my first leads, and I guess I thought leading was always like that .... isn't it? I mean, it wasn't much better when I got to the Yosemite and the Apron, with 50-foot run outs as the norm.
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Location: CA : Sierra Foothills South : Tollhouse Rock : Tollhouse Rock : Tollhouse Traverse (5.5)
By: sibylle When: Apr 23, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The guidebook states that the 4th pitch goes over the mantel - so I did the mantel. I'm not sure what you mean by exit "left" - doesn't the corner head up and right before the mantel?
We climbed the route as a way to reach the top at the end of the day. But I'm concerned about beginning climbers who get onto the route, which looks (and is) easy down low, and then are stymied at the mantel.
The beta photo here shows the route going over the mantel, and it also says:
" starting the 5.7 bolt... more >>
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Location: CA : Sierra Foothills South : Tollhouse Rock : Tollhouse Rock : Tollhouse Traverse (5.5)
By: sibylle When: Apr 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: We simul-climbed the first two pitches. If many people think the mantel is 5.7 (I agree that it is); shouldn't the climb be rated 5.7? After all, the purpose of a guidebook is to inform people who've never been to the area, and to indicate which climbs they can do safely.
What if two visiting climbers, who can only lead 5.6, come here and try to climb this? They could be in trouble at the mantel ... although I did place gear above it and it could be aided if necessary.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Horseshoe Wall : DeAngelo/ Duncan Route (aka... (5.10+) : Photo
By: sibylle When: Mar 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great photo, Larry! We've gotta go climb again sometime!
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Location: International : Australia : Mount Arapiles : The Bluffs : Photo
By: sibylle When: Sep 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice! The first time one of my photo's been a "photo of the moment"! -- or maybe I've never seen it before!
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Cider Crack (5.9)
By: sibylle When: Sep 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with the 10a rating!
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Photo
By: sibylle When: Sep 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The dark stuff is water running down the crack...
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Sea to Sky Corridor : ... : Photo
By: sibylle When: Sep 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tightening my shoes for the steeper section ahead
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Rock On (5.10a)
By: sibylle When: Sep 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm not particularly good at laybacking, steep, or strenuous, but found this route quite reasonable by stemming the corner as much as possible. On pitch 3, I comfortably chimneyed the flaring corner.
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Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Mitchell Peak : North Face Center (Ecclesia... (5.9)
By: sibylle When: Nov 14, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I wrote about our first ascent here:
funclimbsaroundtheworld.com/?p=1375
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Location: R Klass : this is me : Photo
By: sibylle When: Jun 14, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is this and Entlebucher? Or Swissy?
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Priest : Honeymoon Chimney (5.11a) : Photo
By: sibylle When: Mar 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: we were on top of the Nuns, looking across at our friends on HOneymoon chimney!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Unnamed 19 (5.10+)
By: sibylle When: Mar 24, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have small hands - can jam #1 Camalot cracks just fine; and I struggled at the crux, where it got bigger. Partly I was tired by then, and I didn't have enough big gear (3s). I did not know it was going to get bigger up there, and didn't bring enough.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Catmandu (5.10+)
By: sibylle When: Mar 24, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think it's just left of Bachelor party. I placed these Camalots:
0.3, 0.4, 1, two 2s, and a 3.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Cat Nap (5.11-)
By: sibylle When: Mar 24, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I didn't have a #3, and was fine without it. I did place the second of my #2 Camalots before moving left out of the slot, and was really glad to have it there. I think I placed several 0.5 (purple) down low.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Carson's Tower : Sand In My Pants (5.8 C2)
By: sibylle When: Mar 21, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: We climbed this after doing the original route, since we were there and it was there ...
The start is no longer 5.7 - perhaps numerous holds broke off. It's actually quite tricky, and took Tristan Hechtel three tries to lead. He fell off on an earlier attempt when the hold he was trying to use broke, which leads me to believe that various other holds have also vanished. I resorted to an ertrier on a nut to get on the climb. The start is quite undercut, and the first foothold is a long way up.
... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Carson's Tower : Original Route (5.7)
By: sibylle When: Mar 21, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I placed a #3 Camalot and a #4 Camalot, with long slings, below the pins (bolts? I can't remember). The step across is harder for the vertically challenged. My 6'2" son had no trouble, but I could reach nothing to hold on to.
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Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Mitchell Peak : North Face Center (Ecclesia... (5.9)
By: sibylle When: Mar 1, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: We didn't have any large gear, since it didn't exist ... I think all we had was stoppers and hexes.
It was barely my second season of leading, and I was very inexperienced. Dorworth pointed to where I was to go and sent me up .... I borrowed someone's parka, which was lucky since we got caught in a huge thunderstorm in the dark, at the summit.
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Location: CO : Mountaineering Museum sPEAK...
By: sibylle When: Aug 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'll also show photos of Arapiles, Australia if time allows.
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Location: International : Australia : Mount Arapiles : The Atridae : Agamemnon (5.5 PG13)
By: sibylle When: Jun 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A pleasant shady climb for a hot day. It's ridiculously hard for 5.5, but I thought that almost every climb at the Araps was absurdly difficult for its rating.
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