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Stone of Ignorance.


Member Since: Aug 2, 2005
Last Visit: Aug 29, 2014
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Point Rank: # 78
Total Points: 4,517
Last Year: 275
Last 30 Days: 0
120 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has sibylle been climbing?










Contributions


All 1182 | Routes 21 | Areas 5 | Photos 840 | Page Improvements | Comments 32 | Posts 115 | Stars 168 | Ratings 1
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: OR : Smith Rock : Smith Rock Group : Cod Rock : Butter Knife (5.10d) : Photo
By: sibylle When: May 7, 2014

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Comments: You're right! I'll try to change this, S.


Location: Colorado : "Maiden Light": Aerial Danc... : Photo
By: sibylle When: Mar 18, 2014

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Comments: that looks terrifying - no rock to hold on to!


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Buffalo Mountain : Photo
By: sibylle When: Feb 19, 2014

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Comments: Thanks, Larry! That's the view from my house!


Location: OR : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : Sleepy Hallow (5.10-)
By: sibylle When: Sep 15, 2013

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Comments: The rock quality seemed fine when I climbed it last week - maybe it's been cleaned up. I used only one #2, and numerous nuts in the upper section, as well as two green aliens.


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Mitchell Peak : North Face Center (Ecclesia... (5.9)
By: sibylle When: Sep 15, 2013

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Comments: I think one can easily climb this without the #3 or #4 - I wouldn't want to carry in the big heavy gear!
We had no Cams in 1972, climbed the route using stoppers and hexes, and neither of us were super climbers, certainly not in 1972!


Location: CA : High Sierra : Lone Pine Peak : North Ridge (5.4) : Photo
By: sibylle When: Jul 1, 2013

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Comments: I found a fixed 0.3 (small blue) Camalot here ( and clipped it!)
Still 5.4?


Location: CA : High Sierra : Lone Pine Peak : North Ridge (5.4) : Photo
By: sibylle When: Jul 1, 2013

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Comments: This crack by the fixed pins did not feel like 5.4 ....


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Stately Pleasure Dome : Boltway (5.8)
By: sibylle When: Jun 24, 2013

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Comments: I lead the 10 finish a few years ago, and the bolt was near my waist on the crux move. The crux I thought was very well bolted - and then after that, head to the crack, with gear placements.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Three Hour Buttress : Three Hour Arete (5.10c)
By: sibylle When: May 16, 2013

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Comments: Awesome route - good job! We encountered no rockfall nor loose rocks.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Three Hour Buttress : Photo
By: sibylle When: May 16, 2013

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Comments: Gear - I used only one #3 Cam, and no #4; but did use a very tiny cam (old 0.1, new 00 I think) and a green alien on pitch 1. The anchor for Pitch 1 consists of one bolt plus cams in the crack.
We climbed as a party of three, and got our rope caught when trying to rappel from the top with a double rope - better to do four single rope raps; than longer ones. Lots of bushes and flakes to catch the rope.
Also - there's a bolted rap anchor with hooks to the right of ... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Sheelite Canyon / Pratt's C... : ... : Chronic (5.12a)
By: sibylle When: May 15, 2013

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Comments: Warning -- loose flake.
The flake near the 4th bolt is loose, and it could come off if a climber pulls on it unknowingly and hit the belayer.
( I did not climb this - was the photographer.)


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Barber Wall : Lichen Delight (5.11a)
By: sibylle When: Apr 30, 2013

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Comments: This was the first time I climbed a first ascent of a route, with a climbing partner. We saw this great crack that was harder than anything my partner or I could climb ... and we were into aid climbing in those days. I was trying to learn to aid climb so I could climb Yosemite walls ....
Anyway, I'm glad it turned out to be such a good free climb. If I ever return to Cathedral, I'll try to free climb it (with an appropriate rope gun. The days when I was regularly leading 5.11 came and went al... more >>


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Thin Air Face : Thinner (5.8 R)
By: sibylle When: Apr 30, 2013

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Comments: Hmmm - this is where I learned to lead years ago, when I was in my teens. I think it was one of my first leads, and I guess I thought leading was always like that .... isn't it? I mean, it wasn't much better when I got to the Yosemite and the Apron, with 50-foot run outs as the norm.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Tollhouse Rock : Tollhouse Rock : Tollhouse Traverse (5.5)
By: sibylle When: Apr 23, 2013

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Comments: The guidebook states that the 4th pitch goes over the mantel - so I did the mantel. I'm not sure what you mean by exit "left" - doesn't the corner head up and right before the mantel?

We climbed the route as a way to reach the top at the end of the day. But I'm concerned about beginning climbers who get onto the route, which looks (and is) easy down low, and then are stymied at the mantel.
The beta photo here shows the route going over the mantel, and it also says:
" starting the 5.7 bolt... more >>


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Tollhouse Rock : Tollhouse Rock : Tollhouse Traverse (5.5)
By: sibylle When: Apr 15, 2013

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Comments: We simul-climbed the first two pitches. If many people think the mantel is 5.7 (I agree that it is); shouldn't the climb be rated 5.7? After all, the purpose of a guidebook is to inform people who've never been to the area, and to indicate which climbs they can do safely.
What if two visiting climbers, who can only lead 5.6, come here and try to climb this? They could be in trouble at the mantel ... although I did place gear above it and it could be aided if necessary.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Horseshoe Wall : DeAngelo/ Duncan Route (aka... (5.10+) : Photo
By: sibylle When: Mar 22, 2013

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Comments: Great photo, Larry! We've gotta go climb again sometime!


Location: International : Australia : Mount Arapiles : The Bluffs : Photo
By: sibylle When: Sep 20, 2012

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Comments: Nice! The first time one of my photo's been a "photo of the moment"! -- or maybe I've never seen it before!


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Cider Crack (5.9)
By: sibylle When: Sep 18, 2012

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Comments: I agree with the 10a rating!


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Photo
By: sibylle When: Sep 18, 2012

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Comments: The dark stuff is water running down the crack...


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Sea to Sky Corridor : ... : Photo
By: sibylle When: Sep 17, 2012

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Comments: Tightening my shoes for the steeper section ahead


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Rock On (5.10a)
By: sibylle When: Sep 17, 2012

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Comments: I'm not particularly good at laybacking, steep, or strenuous, but found this route quite reasonable by stemming the corner as much as possible. On pitch 3, I comfortably chimneyed the flaring corner.


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Mitchell Peak : North Face Center (Ecclesia... (5.9)
By: sibylle When: Nov 14, 2011

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Comments: I wrote about our first ascent here:
funclimbsaroundtheworld.com/?p...


Location: R Klass : this is me : Photo
By: sibylle When: Jun 14, 2011

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Comments: Is this and Entlebucher? Or Swissy?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Priest : Honeymoon Chimney (5.11a) : Photo
By: sibylle When: Mar 18, 2011

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Comments: we were on top of the Nuns, looking across at our friends on HOneymoon chimney!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Unnamed 19 (5.10+)
By: sibylle When: Mar 24, 2010

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Comments: I have small hands - can jam #1 Camalot cracks just fine; and I struggled at the crux, where it got bigger. Partly I was tired by then, and I didn't have enough big gear (3s). I did not know it was going to get bigger up there, and didn't bring enough.


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