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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Never a Dull Moment (5.12a PG13)
By: Shumin Wu When: Aug 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Adam, I've not been back on the route since you & I were there. I shameless took the grade from Rossiter's book; how am I to judge what the grade of the original traverse is if I haven't been able to do it? Still, I don't think doing the traverse would add any pump to the rest of the route. In that respect, I'd think Evictor is much harder.
This is the only climb (original traverse) I've been on where I think I'd have a better chance of making the move if I strap some weights on my an... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : Beethoven's Fifth (5.12d PG13)
By: Shumin Wu When: Aug 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Starting on the right of the 2 cracks, you can put in a #0.75 Camalot sized cam, then traverse to the left crack (which may not feel that secure the first time) and plug in a nut or a tight-finger sized cam. The climbing is pretty easy until over the obvious (wide) hand spot. From there, even if one decides to not place any gear through the entire crux section, the only danger would be getting a little scraped over a long fall.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Scary Canary (5.12b/c R)
By: Shumin Wu When: May 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well, that bolt at end of P1 is still hard to clip for me. I'm 5'6" and actually need to do 2-3 extra moves just to start P1. Although being not very tall and quite flexible made P2 feel easier than the grade (so 12a for P1 and 12a/b for P2?). Two very cool (and different) pitches of the same route!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Doub-Griffith (5.11c)
By: Shumin Wu When: May 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: wcurudy - it most definitely is.
Really unfortunate, as it is a cool route.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Xanadu to Pony... : Parallels (5.11b)
By: Shumin Wu When: Apr 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Felt quite a bit easier than Foxtrot. The gear also does not get in the way nearly as much. A fine route though.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : The Evictor (5.12c R)
By: Shumin Wu When: Apr 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crux for me is before the finger/tip jams. The rests on this route are decent enough that I'd call this 5.12 leading in project style (i.e. with all the move/gear beta). Onsight/flash would be much more difficult.
Not sure where the R rating comes from (pre cam days?) The route accepts mix of good active and passive gear.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Rigid Designator Amphitheat... : The Fang (WI5)
By: Shumin Wu When: Jan 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looks like it touched down (viewed from I-70) but thin.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Camouflage (5.12b)
By: Shumin Wu When: Jan 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Saw a strong climber going directly onto the arete and got it clean last weekend. He said it was a lot harder than going to the right but didn't elaborate on the grade.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : North Chasm View Wall : Stoned Oven (5.11c) : Photo
By: Shumin Wu When: Aug 30, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The exit is the right-leaning crack (5.9) in the picture.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : North Chasm View Wall : Stoned Oven (5.11c)
By: Shumin Wu When: Aug 30, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: splattipus:
So you were the one that sent us off route (and made me repeatedly fall & take), huh? The cams were left there, as they'd serve as scary but passable rap anchor. I noticed as I went through the right-curving flake and traversing back to almost directly above the cam anchor that there was a more direct looking (and easier) line starting just left of the cam anchor. It had a slight right curve, which would be consistent with the topo. Since nowhere else on the route had what felt like ... more >>
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : North Chasm View Wall : Stoned Oven (5.11c)
By: Shumin Wu When: Aug 17, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: To add to theREALangry's comments:
Loose rocks: they are everywhere...it is the Black. End of P3: there are HUGE blocks right of the nut+sling anchor that are not supported on much. If possible, climb directly under the anchor. End of P11: depending on how you arrive at the ledge, there are large blocks that flexes. The only saving grace is that, at either location, you are unlikely to kill your belayer if you pull them loose.
P5: Belay right above, below or higher above the 11b roof problem, ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - top to Xanadu : Joke Crack to Superstone (5.11a R)
By: Shumin Wu When: Jul 29, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This would be a three-star route IF the wall and the easy crack forming the start of purple haze weren't there. But as it is, it felt very contrived. Without using the "easy" crack and stemming the wall for rest, this felt like a 10, but then again, one must use it to get started...
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : .30-06 (5.12a)
By: Shumin Wu When: Jul 6, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: And Rolofson reversed the name on the newer edition of the guide book. FWIW.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Roadrunner (5.11-)
By: Shumin Wu When: Jul 6, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Errr, tried doing this as a single pitch... and I don't recommend it. Basically, you can either screw your second with little protection on the roof traverse or give yourself rope drag from hell.
I don't know if there was a defined crux on this route, but the roof traverse has poor feet for a couple moves for shorter guys and once the roof is turned, the upper section gets pumpy (or was it because of my 40 lb rope drag?) I don't know why anybody bothered to mention the OW, cause, it ain't no O... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Thunderdome (5.12a)
By: Shumin Wu When: Jul 6, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Given how some of the sport routes here gets more than 3 star average, I'm hesitant to give this 3 stars, but I think that's all it deserves. It does not have a crack crux or any sustained hard crack section.
I hung & fell at the crux (I was already pumped from a couple sport routes) before figuring out it was a bouldering problem, not a finger crack crux. Still, this feels at most 11+ for somebody with strong arms. At any rate, the protection is pretty straightforward and falls from the crux o... more >>
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Location: International : Thailand : Krabi/Phra Nang Peninsula (... : Tonsai Bay : Fire Wall : Groove Tube (5.9-)
By: Shumin Wu When: Jun 25, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The second pitch is fairly short and arches to the left. It goes ~5.10. Be warned that a 60m will NOT get you (rappel) down to the ground. There is a set of bolts 100 ft above ground you can rap off of that's somewhat below the 2nd pitch, but please back up the rap as you might swing trying to reach it.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Earth Angel (5.12d)
By: Shumin Wu When: Jun 20, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Matt, I cleaned a draw on the route last weekend. I've sent you a PM....
I'm a little perplexed by the upper section of this route: there is a crack system on the right and the arete on the left, working either would offer good rest and easier moves. Is the point to just work the hard face moves?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : The Gill Crack (5.12a)
By: Shumin Wu When: Jun 11, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely not a finger wrecker... I pinched my right pinky because I slotted my hand for a bomber jam, but my untaped fingers looked way better than my all-taped fingers on some S Platte crack.
There are many positive jams/locks on this route to place gear, but just remember that anything you place above your head will probably be a hold you'd want to use.
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : West Face : El Matador (5.10d)
By: Shumin Wu When: May 29, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Summited the tower on the route. Did the 10a variation of P4 over the right side of the roof (it was fun and felt hard for the grade). On P4, one can skip the first anchor and go about 150ft total to the next anchor. It's then another 70/80 ft to a set of anchor (look left) at the summit.
I'm 5'6 and can stem anywhere on P2, but moving off of pure stem would be quite difficult for the first 30 ft).
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Houser Buttress Area : Loose Lady (5.10a)
By: Shumin Wu When: Jan 3, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hrm, and I thought the route was named to encourage more "loose" ladies to climb topless (my apologies to the nice lady from the bay area; I couldn't resist after learning the route name, hehe).
It's not a bad route, but if the neighboring Hidden Arch only gets 4 stars, then this is at most 3.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Houser Buttress Area : Hidden Arch (5.11d)
By: Shumin Wu When: Jan 3, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was my first time at JTree and I didn't get to climb many routes. But compared to some of the Eldorado classics, I'd say this is the best single pitch gear route I've ever climbed/tried. What a way to spend new year's day!
The hard part of the route can be protected well with small stoppers, though small (size 0) C3 or TCU equivalent will make placement much less strenuous (and apparently still too much for me.) I brought a #2 camalot for the wider part above the crux section, but th... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Camouflage (5.12b)
By: Shumin Wu When: Sep 26, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sport climbing in Eldo... Wow. Dogged/"aided" this route on a hot day in July. A cooler day (or earlier in the morning before the sun hits) would probably make it a bit easier. We ended up clipping the first bolt while rapping from Center Route, but the moves going from the right is not difficult (if a bit dicey). My fingers took most of damage between bolt 2 & 3 while trying to figure out the moves. Otherwise, the crimps are not too unfriendly.
I'll definitely have to come back for the redpoi... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : First Tier : Catch and Release (5.12b/c)
By: Shumin Wu When: Jul 24, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Got on this route a couple of weekends ago. It doesn't seem like it has seem much traffic lately.
Question for the FA, is one suppose to "bypass" the lower roof by going to the right and then traverse over on the lip? I tried different things to go over the roof directly, but the holds were thin and the moves burly. The eventual sequence I settled on (and for the upper crux) involved delicate balance rather than brawn.
Fun route detracted from the creek and road noise.
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