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Rock wars, Red River Gorge

Member Since: Aug 9, 2010
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1

Where has shoo been climbing?


All 442 | Routes | Areas | Photos 13 | Page Improvements | Comments 9 | Posts 407 | Stars 11 | Ratings 2

Contributed Comments


Location: NH : *Cathedral Ledge : The Prow Area : The Beast Flake (5.9)
By: shoo When: Jun 3, 2015

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Comments: BETA ALERT

If you are doing Recom-Beast, there is a tricky way to make the low (post-flake ripping) transfer back into Recompense after the beast flake super casual and well protected for both the leader and second. Otherwise, it's a poorly protected, awkward, and committing move or two that is certainly the new crux of the route.

After rounding the corner from the beast flake, don't immediately continue down and to the right into the chimney. Instead, climb straight up on a thin juggy flake a... more >>

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Glacier Point Apron : The Grack - Center (5.6)
By: shoo When: Apr 22, 2014

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Comments: I HIGHLY recommend simuling the whole thing if you are your partner are comfortable with it. Doing this as one long pitch is absolutely spectacular, especially for the leader.

Bring a TON of trad draws, a large set of nuts (I used a full wallnut set and the HB offsets), and a standard cam rack up to a #2. Honestly, there is so much fixed mank on this route that you hardly need to place anything if you are comfortable with long runouts on 5.6 granite slab (which you damn well should be if ... more >>

Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Klahanie Crack (5.7)
By: shoo When: Apr 2, 2014

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Comments: As mentioned, thinner than it looks. .75s for most of it, but it'll take a variety of gear.

This might be the most overrated route in Squamish. It's just kinda meh. The feature is cool, but it's just not very much fun. Too low angle to be engaging.

Location: NH : *Cathedral Ledge : Barber Wall : Layton's Ascent (5.9)
By: shoo When: Sep 11, 2013

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Comments: Warning: The big block in the middle of the route is not really attached to anything. It wobbles a bit when you stand on it. I would personally keep clear.

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : Summit Wall : The Open Book (5.7) : Photo
By: shoo When: Apr 19, 2013

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Comments: Photoshop much? You look like an angel.

Location: KY : Red River Gorge : The Motherlode : Ball Scratcher (5.12a) : Photo
By: shoo When: Feb 8, 2012

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Comments: I hear this thing is a ridiculously underrated classic. True?

Location: AL : Horse Pens 40 : Turtle Rock Area/ Panty Shi... : Panty Shields (V3+) : Photo
By: shoo When: Nov 8, 2011

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Comments: That would be Peggy Tautz donning those serious panty shields.

Location: KY : Red River Gorge : The Motherlode : Ball Scratcher (5.12a)
By: shoo When: May 5, 2011

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Comments: Go straight up the arete. None of this gully business.

Location: NH : * NH Ice and Mixed Climbing : Frankenstein Ice Climbs : Dropline Area : Dropline (WI5)
By: shoo When: Feb 22, 2011

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Comments: DEFINITELY bring medium sized cams (tricams or hexes in similar sizes will work just fine as well) for the p2 belay anchor. You will hate your life without them.

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