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Rock wars, Red River Gorge


Member Since: Aug 9, 2010
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
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Point Rank: # 5,305
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has shoo been climbing?










Contributions


All 367 | Routes | Areas | Photos 12 | Page Improvements | Comments 8 | Posts 345 | Stars 2 | Ratings
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
.4 failure from crystal

.4 failure from crystal

General Climbing : Accident on Manic Crack in ... : Post

Feb 24, 2014

Pre-production x4 swage. Note that this is VERY different than the production version.

Pre-production x4 swage. Note that this is VERY different than the production version.

Climbing Gear Reviews : BD X4, ongoing real-world r... : Post

Jul 8, 2013

mastercam vs x4 head width

mastercam vs x4 head width

Climbing Gear Reviews : BD X4, ongoing real-world r... : Post

Jun 13, 2013

c3 vs x4 head width

c3 vs x4 head width

Climbing Gear Reviews : BD X4, ongoing real-world r... : Post

Jun 13, 2013

c4 vs. x4 head widths

c4 vs. x4 head widths

Climbing Gear Reviews : BD X4, ongoing real-world r... : Post

Jun 13, 2013

Ladies, take note.

Ladies, take note.

Climbing Gear Reviews : BD X4, ongoing real-world r... : Post

Jun 13, 2013

Mastercam on top, x4 on bottom.

Mastercam on top, x4 on bottom.

Climbing Gear Reviews : BD X4, ongoing real-world r... : Post

Jun 13, 2013

Stem/thumb loop interface, mastercam vs. x4

Stem/thumb loop interface, mastercam vs. x4

Climbing Gear Reviews : BD X4, ongoing real-world r... : Post

Jun 13, 2013

BD .2 x4 stem/thumb loop interface

BD .2 x4 stem/thumb loop interface

Climbing Gear Reviews : BD X4, ongoing real-world r... : Post

Jun 13, 2013

.3 BD x4, stem/thumb loop interface.

.3 BD x4, stem/thumb loop interface.

Climbing Gear Reviews : BD X4, ongoing real-world r... : Post

Jun 13, 2013

Kinking x4s.

Kinking x4s.

Climbing Gear Reviews : BD X4, ongoing real-world r... : Post

Jun 13, 2013

Rock wars, Red River Gorge

Rock wars, Red River Gorge

shoo : Profile

Sep 8, 2010

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Glacier Point Apron : The Grack - Center (5.6)
By: shoo When: Apr 22, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I HIGHLY recommend simuling the whole thing if you are your partner are comfortable with it. Doing this as one long pitch is absolutely spectacular, especially for the leader.

Bring a TON of trad draws, a large set of nuts (I used a full wallnut set and the HB offsets), and a standard cam rack up to a #2. Honestly, there is so much fixed mank on this route that you hardly need to place anything if you are comfortable with long runouts on 5.6 granite slab (which you damn well should be if ... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Klahanie Crack (5.7)
By: shoo When: Apr 2, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: As mentioned, thinner than it looks. .75s for most of it, but it'll take a variety of gear.

This might be the most overrated route in Squamish. It's just kinda meh. The feature is cool, but it's just not very much fun. Too low angle to be engaging.


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Barber Wall : Layton's Ascent (5.9)
By: shoo When: Sep 11, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Warning: The big block in the middle of the route is not really attached to anything. It wobbles a bit when you stand on it. I would personally keep clear.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : Summit Wall : The Open Book (5.7) : Photo
By: shoo When: Apr 19, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Photoshop much? You look like an angel.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : The Motherlode : Ball Scratcher (5.12a) : Photo
By: shoo When: Feb 8, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: I hear this thing is a ridiculously underrated classic. True?


Location: AL : Horse Pens 40 : Turtle Rock Area/ Panty Shi... : Panty Shields (V3+) : Photo
By: shoo When: Nov 8, 2011

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Comments: That would be Peggy Tautz donning those serious panty shields.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : The Motherlode : Ball Scratcher (5.12a)
By: shoo When: May 5, 2011

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Comments: Go straight up the arete. None of this gully business.


Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Frankenstein Ice Climbs : Dropline Area : Dropline (WI5)
By: shoo When: Feb 22, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: DEFINITELY bring medium sized cams (tricams or hexes in similar sizes will work just fine as well) for the p2 belay anchor. You will hate your life without them.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: BD X4, ongoing real-world review (will update over time)Climbing Gear Reviewsshoo1 day ago
re: BD X4, ongoing real-world review (will update over time)Climbing Gear Reviewsshoo1 day ago
re: Cutting off leg loops Climbing Gear Discussionshoo1 day ago
re: BD X4, ongoing real-world review (will update over time)Climbing Gear Reviewsshoo1 day ago
FS Petzl Adjama (S), BD Cyborg and BD SeracFOR SALE / WantedshooSep 10, 2014
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