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Pausing to pose with the amazing cracks there.


Member Since: Mar 4, 2008
Last Visit: 21 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 2,142
Total Points: 257
Last Year: 119
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 300 | Routes | Areas | Photos 41 | Page Improvments | Comments 52 | Posts 86 | Stars 104 | Ratings 17
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Frigid Air Buttress : Burlesque (5.9)
By: Sherri Lewis When: May 4, 2014

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Comments: We thoroughly enjoyed ourselves on this route today. Every pitch had something fun but of course the crux pitch is the show stopper.

For the approach, hike up the boulder gully (same as descent for Frigid Aire) to the waterfall. To avoid the worst of the boulder scrambling, about halfway up keep an eye out for a faint-looking trail that cuts out of the gully from skier's left. I usually catch this trail at one of the first large sandy clearings I encounter in the boulder gully. This trai... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Jackrabbit Buttress : Ernest Stemmingway (5.8)
By: Sherri Lewis When: Mar 14, 2014

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Comments: Be sure to stretch out before you head up this one. The route definitely lives up to its name!

The first two pitches are full-value fun on fantastic rock. Pitch 2 looks intimidating and improbable but go for it and you will be pleasantly surprised at how it unfolds. (Ample protection available in deep in slot, save a #4 or #5 for exit.) P1 150ft, P2 195ft.

For P3, after following the left-leaning crack 200ft to belay on the ramp, you can do one more 50ft pitch (5.6+?)traversin... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : Angel Food Wall : Tele-vision (5.9)
By: Sherri Lewis When: Nov 14, 2013

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Comments: We had a blast on this route today! It was a worthwhile adventure to check it out.

(The pitch lengths below are approximate and to the best of my recollection...if anyone finds that I was way off anywhere, please update with better info.)

P1 ~75ft 5.9+ The first pitch starts things off with a bang: three or four athletic sport sequences in a row with well-placed bolts(and the option to put a little gear in between a few of them if you want to). This section becomes quite pumpy right off t... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : The Big Horn (5.8)
By: Sherri Lewis When: Nov 13, 2013

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Comments: This route was a delight--fun moves, striking features, beautiful varnish, and no crowds.

I was surprised to find that the climbing was much friendlier than its appearance would suggest, with more 5.6 moves than there were 5.8 moves. Also, there were generous edges and plentiful stances from which to place gear(which was great once you get that first bomber #4).

I'm 5'1" and found the crux to be at no harder than the grade implies. (not reach-dependent, which was a nice surprise.... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Pro Choice (5.11a)
By: Sherri Lewis When: Oct 30, 2013

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Comments: This was an enjoyable route on mostly good rock(still a few hollow plates here and there but using your sandstone smarts and tapping before pulling will keep you out of trouble).

The second pitch didn't seem to have any moves that felt .10b as the guidebook suggests. We thought 5.9?

The crux is a fun, balancy sequence. I was glad to have shade for this particular section--I hate to think of how it would feel making those moves if the sun were beating down on that slick varnish. Looks like ... more >>


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Middle Town Walls : ... : PBR (5.10b)
By: Sherri Lewis When: Sep 14, 2013

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Comments: Fantastic addition to the mid wall! The upper third (from the tree stump up) isn't as clean as the start but once it is polished up with a bit more traffic and scrubbing this line is sure to become classic.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Middle Town Walls : ... : Hips and Valleys (5.9)
By: Sherri Lewis When: Sep 14, 2013

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Comments: Thanks for cleaning this! We really enjoyed it. Recent rains have re-deposited a bit of dirt in the finger crack but not enough to render it unusable--I scraped out some with my nut tool but that section will likely need more attention after the wet season to keep it in such nice condition.

I had only a #4 for the chimney which made it feel a little heady (a #5 would have helped, as the #4 was tipped) but it sure is fun --climbs more like an offwidth than a true chimney and ... more >>


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lower Lump Area : ... : Exponential Excavation (5.9-)
By: Sherri Lewis When: Sep 3, 2013

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Comments: This is a neat route which will be especially appreciated by those looking for less intimidating routes to lead at Index. Probably a tad easier than Roger's Corner. The dihedral at the top can be stemmed or climbed as a chimney--fun either way!


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lookout Point Area : ... : Spineless (5.11a)
By: Sherri Lewis When: Sep 2, 2013

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Comments: Climbing to the left as you approach the overlap works but be aware that falling before you make that clip will send you hurtling into the wall of the dihedral behind you. At 5'1", I found this to be a difficult clip to reach. For those wanting to mitigate this risk, climbing Senior Citizens first and pre-hanging an extended draw at that spot allows you to make the clip from a safer position. I am by no means solid at the grade so your mileage may vary.

I thought this climb was excellent and ... more >>


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : The Country Area : ... : Tunnel Vision (5.10d)
By: Sherri Lewis When: Aug 18, 2013

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Comments: If you climb Tunnel Vision, you will be selling yourself short if you don't continue on to do Angora Grotto, which is a gem of a route situated just above it. AG's grade is slightly harder (.11a) but there is only one well-protected move at that grade. The most efficient way to link these is to clip the Tunnel Vision anchors as you go by on lead and continue to scramble up and right (15ft?) to the anchors at the base of the Angora Grotto crack. Belay your second up from here. [[Mountain Pro... more >>


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : The Country Area : ... : Angora Grotto (5.11a)
By: Sherri Lewis When: Aug 18, 2013

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Comments: This is an enjoyable line packed with variety and well-protected, interesting moves. If it were at ground level, it would be every bit as popular as Cunning Stunt, if not more so.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : The Country Area : ... : Leave My Face Alone (5.11a)
By: Sherri Lewis When: Jul 24, 2013

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Comments: This enjoyable line has received a recent scrubbing (thanks Doug T!) and is ready to go on your ticklist.

The start is juggy fun, followed by a committing roof pull which delivers you onto the steep, uniquely featured face with moves that build in difficulty to an attention-getting finish.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Lower Tier : Frieda's Flake (5.9)
By: Sherri Lewis When: Mar 19, 2013

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Comments: P1 is full-value with beautiful rock and many moves at the grade. Tenuous stemming and cryptic roof cruxes definitely hold your attention. We took doubles to #4 and probably could have gotten by with a single #4 as there are smaller cracks on the sides which can be used instead. If you only take a single, save it for the beginning of the crux. I would have loved to get another piece in the middle of the 10-12ft crux section but didn't see another placement opportunity until the ... more >>


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : The Country Area : ... : Cunning Stunt (5.10d)
By: Sherri Lewis When: Aug 11, 2012

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Comments: A tcu or alien can protect the moves below the fixed pin, but be aware that the block you are placing it behind is less than solid. If you take up a #.4 Camelot, you can get a bomber piece in a slot around to the right once you move above the pin (before the first bolt).

If you are short, taking the "ramp" variation from the bolt below the crux is worth considering: Step left to gain a small shelf for your hands, smear the feet, then reach straight up to for a small horizontal slot rath... more >>


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Middle Town Walls : ... : Gorilla My Dreams (5.10a)
By: Sherri Lewis When: Aug 11, 2012

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Comments: An excellent physical line that will test your endurance and resolve.

A #3 Camelot nicely protects before the 1st bolt. If it's damp off the deck, there's also a place for a tcu lower down. After the 1st bolt, the clips are where you want them but if you bring a #.5-.75 you may find a nice spot for it somewhere between the upper bolts, though it's not necessary.

After you catch your breath, be sure to follow the fixed line and short trail uphill to help yourself to a serving o... more >>


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lower Town Wall : ... : Sagittarius (5.10a/b)
By: Sherri Lewis When: Jul 28, 2012

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Comments: A fellow climber aptly described this amazing route as "a voyage." It takes you through so many big, improbable features that by the time you reach the final stretch of steep handcrack, you'll feel as though it was twice as long. Shorter folk will get an extra thrill on the traverse under the roof, as you may not reach the undercling to use for balance.

Gearwise, I find that placing a #3.5 in lieu of clipping the chockstone inspires a bit more confidence for the wide section til you c... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Talking Holds (5.10a)
By: Sherri Lewis When: Jul 13, 2012

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Comments: Start feels a little bouldery but the rest of the climb is positive and well-protected overhanging fun. Climb is in the shade for most of the day and you can TR Turbocharger from the anchor.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : The Gobbler (5.10-)
By: Sherri Lewis When: May 4, 2012

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Comments: Excellent moves and rock quality on this one. After the crux move on P2, my partner short-slung a finger-size cam off to the left(in the start of the chimney) which kept her rope from feeding into the gobbler crack as she moved upward.

Also, as you start up P3, be aware that there is an .11d route which branches off to the right after the second bolt. (My topo mistakenly had a line curving to the right for Gobbler and after a move or two in that direction it was clear I was not on a .10a.) Y... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Bourbon Street (5.8+)
By: Sherri Lewis When: Apr 9, 2012

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Comments: On P1, do you step right after the first bulge at the first small bushy ledge? Above this first ledge, there is a steep hand-to-fingers crack in the face leading to a larger, more imposing overhang with a fist crack running through it(none of which looks 5.7 but maybe there's hidden holds). I haven't seen that larger roof mentioned or pictured in the feedback here so I'm wondering that whole section above the first small ledge is another route altogether? Looks like there is a rap station ju... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Stick Gully : Stick Left (5.10c)
By: Sherri Lewis When: Oct 26, 2011

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Comments: Not sure that pitch length is 140' as stated above. Handren guide calls it 100'. We were able to rap off with a single 70m rope with rope to spare. Fun line!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Refrigerator Wall : La Cierta Edad (5.10d)
By: Sherri Lewis When: Oct 11, 2011

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Comments: I'll add my 2 cents to ratings debate for P4. I'm 5' 1" and felt that the two bouldery moves immediately above the wide crack to be the crux; I'd say .10b, mabye 10c, though it didn't feel as stiff and desperate to me as Triassic Sands' crux. The wide part felt 5.9+--I was short enough that I could hip scum the whole thing with no laybacking and no offwidthing.

On the flip side, I offwidthed the entire length P3 because it was too wide to stem. This made it a much more sustained,... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Sweet Thin (5.9)
By: Sherri Lewis When: Oct 10, 2011

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Comments: As per Sqwirll, we took a #3.5 and found it exceedingly useful on P6. Never felt we needed anything bigger than a #5 anywhere.

This route was a lot of fun, interesting and perfectly comfortable on a sunny 75degree October day.

The last pitch seemed rather odd to us, like it didn't really belong with the rest of the climb. My partner opted to bypass the finger crack at the top of it and follow the easier arete, clipping a bolt on the right edge of it(I believe this is the last pit... more >>


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Icicle Buttress : Cocaine Connection (5.7)
By: Sherri Lewis When: Sep 24, 2011

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Comments: Add my vote to what Sqwirll said. The bolt placements seem to take you where you don't want to go and can create some awful rope drag. The second time I did this route I found it easier to skip a few of the bolts; the runout was more palatable than making the awkward moves to clip all the bolts and deal with the resulting rope drag.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : The Side Walls : ... : Special K (5.8)
By: Sherri Lewis When: Sep 13, 2011

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Comments: I believe this route is also known as "Special K". It is arguably the best line at the K-Cliff.

There is a fixed pin at the base of the cracks. From there, opportunities for pro are everywhere you could want them. If your second is likely to peel, place gear at frequent intervals to prevent them from taking a pendulum across the dirty face to the right of the route. (This mossy area hides some large, loose flakes which could be easily dislodged.)


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : The Side Walls : ... : CF Route (5.9+)
By: Sherri Lewis When: Sep 13, 2011

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Comments: Gaining that horizontal rail before clipping the piton can feel significantly stiffer than 5.8+ if you are closer to 5' tall than 6' tall. This move can be protected with RP's or micronuts--without them, a fall from the crux could be ugly because your last cam is at your feet when you make the move and there are ledges not far below.






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