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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Chasm View Wall : Red Wall (5.10)
By: Shane DeMars When: Jul 14, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great description of a route I would describe as far from great. Some points though:
I remember the pin at the end of the 4th pitch being a bomber Lost Arrow. In any case there is also another 1/4 in bolt at your feet there - rusted, bent, and with a loose hanger.
The dihedral that the end of the black ledge is Right facing; it's the cleanest looking feature at the end of the ledge. There are fixed pins at about 25' and 30', the second of which you may not see from below as it's abo... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Psycho Pigeon (5.11a)
By: Shane DeMars When: Jun 28, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: To add to Josh's comment, there is also a 20ft section on the 3rd pitch (above the fixed pin and on the way to the 2 bolts) in which it is difficult to find good gear. It's easy at the pin and about .10- just before the bolts. Overall I'd say the route deserves more ascents than it seems to get.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : Aid Crack (5.10d)
By: Shane DeMars When: Jun 16, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Easily one of my favorites. I've done this about four times now and don't see getting tired of it. The gear is great if you're good at placing it. I can sew it up and still have everything bigger than a blue Alien. I've never needed RPs on it and only use one medium to small nut. It works if you wait till after your fingers are done using the placements before stuffing gear in them. A good challenge for the grade. Doing the .10a thin crack up the face makes an excellent 2nd pitch.S
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Pony Express t... : Iron Horse (5.11)
By: Shane DeMars When: Jun 15, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: What a great route! It protected well enough, but may still merit the S. There are some creative placements for small cams but wires seemed to be the ticket at the crux. I got by with just my small nuts (as usual) and no RPs. The short crux made it seem like an easier eldo 11c. Overall a wonderful route well worth leading.S
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Pony Express t... : Practice Wall (5.11a)
By: Shane DeMars When: Jun 11, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Stellar route! Agree with Tony that the P1 crux may be height dependant, or as my partner and I found (both of us being about 5'9") beta/ sequence [dependent].
I'd disagree with some about the pro though. I found great pro that never ended up below my feet. I did see the blue alien placement and used it just before I greased off a sloper. There is also a good #1 DMM wallnut placement about 1" below that. I was quaking in my harness going way way above tiny pro on Aerial Book, but felt c... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge
By: Shane DeMars When: Dec 1, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Got back to Black Lake on the 28th. Slabs look fine if thats your thing. The West Gully is in WI3 shape (harder for a few feet if you attempt the strange overhanging wind formations). Fat down below thinner on the upper half (still very doable). Stone Man was still a bit iffy though. Pillars are there but looked quite wet and unstable. A couple of more weeks will hopefully fim them up.
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