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Location: CO : Idaho Springs : Swissco
By: Sergio P When: Oct 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The road to Fall River Road Reservoir is not private. It is an old Forest Service road. The private land borders the road and is not near the boulders. If someone asks you to stop and turn around, tell them to call the Forest Service and complain.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : New Eldo Guidebook - Previe...
By: Sergio P When: Jul 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Any guide book that has a picture of someone climbing in bright green spandex and pink draws is going to be great! Nice job.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Photo
By: Sergio P When: Apr 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: WTF?
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Location: AZ : Photo
By: Sergio P When: Apr 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: beautiful tower, but DO NOT CLIMB IT!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Grand Giraffe (5.10a)
By: Sergio P When: Apr 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: An old style #5 Camalot works great, and a C4 #5 works ok.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall
By: Sergio P When: Apr 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This wall faces mostly west/southwest. However, there are about 4 routes that are bit more south facing. In my opinion I think this wall has some of the best views in the creek. You have great views of the six shooters, canyon lands and the submarine.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - top to Xanadu : Bushwack Crack (5.8 PG13)
By: Sergio P When: Oct 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you only want to do the 1st pitch (I don't think your missing much by skipping the 2nd pitch), you can traverse right at the top and rap off the anchors for Muscular Dystrophy (70' to the ground).
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Location: CO : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : Wigwam Dome
By: Sergio P When: Jul 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: As AC mentioned about 100' uphill from the start of Wunsch's Simulator is an overhanging finger crack. Does anyone know anything about that route? It looks super hard, maybe 5.12+. This route does have an anchor on top that you can rap off with 2 100' raps.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : Wigwam Dome : Wunsch's Simulator (5.10a)
By: Sergio P When: Jul 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Trout guide book says this route would be improved with anchors at the top and I have to agree.
About 100' uphill from the start of Wunsch's Simulator is an overhanging finger crack. Does anyone know anything about that route? It looks super hard, maybe 5.12+. This route does have an anchor on top that you can rap off with 2 80' raps.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : Wigwam Dome : Teepee Tower Crack (5.9)
By: Sergio P When: Jul 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can rap off the 1st pitch with one 60m rope at the sling belay.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - top to Xanadu : Sirens of Titan (5.9)
By: Sergio P When: Jun 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: With a double runner at the far right roof you can link P1 and P2. Easy walk off.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : North Chasm View Wall : The Scenic Cruise (5.10d) : Photo
By: Sergio P When: May 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: It looks like you ripping a giant fart. You're even holding on for extra push! Nice.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Photo
By: Sergio P When: May 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Where is this?
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Location: Daryl Allan : gen : Photo
By: Sergio P When: Apr 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Although the crack is small I still imagine that using cupped hands will help someone tick that crack of their list.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One
By: Sergio P When: Apr 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Vertigo Rap beta:
Once on the upper ramp walk to Chockstone Chimney route. Walk about 15’ higher and begin looking over the edge for a small tree about 20’ below the rim. This sits between a small saddle of the top of the upper ramp and a large rock out cropping. Down climb to the tree. Looking at the wall look right about 15’ for the painted bolts and chain. 2 single rope raps gets you to the Yellow Spur ledge.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Italian Arete (5.9 R)
By: Sergio P When: Apr 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: To do it in one long pitch you need about 7 draws, 12 runners and 2 double runners. If not, welcome to rope drag Meca.
To minimize ground fall potential, near the bottom I began in a good crack for about 25' placed a #0.5 Camalot, made the easy, but tricky traverse right to the other crack, placed another small cam then traversed back left to clean the first cam. This eliminated any ground fall potential and by back cleaning minimized rope drag.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Tusher Canyon : Neighbor Of Putterman : After the Rain (5.10)
By: Sergio P When: Mar 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route! We found a stuck #4 camalot in the upper section of the OW. We tried to get it out, but to no avail. If it is still there then that is one less #4 you have to carry up there. I would also recommend 3-4 #3.5 camalots or #4 friends.
We lengthened the rap so the links are over the lip of the summit. Without doing this pulling the ropes was a huge chore from the amount of friction.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Tusher Canyon : House Of Putterman : Walden's Room (5.10c)
By: Sergio P When: Mar 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Descent info:
• With 2 60 meter ropes do one rap from the summit (you can do this part with one rope) to the top of pitch 2. Then one 180’ rap to the ground.
• With one 60meter rope do one rap from the summit to the top of pitch 2. Another rap to the top of Easton's Corner(this is the5.11 left facing corner to the right of the original start). These rap anchors are visible from the ground. Then one 100’ rap to the bottom.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Block Tower : Queer Bait (5.11c)
By: Sergio P When: Feb 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Kevin, we looked all over the place for the two nut rap off the top and couldn't find it. Thus, we hiked off. Can you give more details as to where that rap is? As for the Fixe chain anchor we didn't see it on the ledge on top of P3. It must have been further to the right (east).
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Block Tower : Queer Bait (5.11c) : Photo
By: Sergio P When: Feb 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This photo was taken by Sergio P because Dana took so long to climb this pitch he got really bored.'
If you zoom in close to the top of the crack you can see a huge chunk of ice in it. You'll also notice that Dana's eyes are closed b/c she was crying about the OW.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Cynical Pinnacle : Hand Job (aka West Face) (5.9)
By: Sergio P When: Nov 11, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can rap with one 60m rope from the top of the 1st pitch. Or if you want to use that anchor to belay for the 2nd OW pitch, clip the anchor then go back down 5' to a small ledge where there is a fixed nut. A more comfortable belay.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : East Buttress (5.10b)
By: Sergio P When: Oct 9, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did the moves, reversed the moves, fell, aided for speed. My personal opinion is that it is a great route regardless of how someone gets past the crux. But please don't take my personal opinion too seriously; go find out for yourself.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Sunshine Wall : Gonzo's Lament (5.9)
By: Sergio P When: Sep 3, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can also link P2 varation with P3 for a great 180' pitch. This also avoids having to set up a belay on small ledges as the top of P3 has a large (and loose) ledge.
A better rap option then what AC suggests: On the last pitch, go left at the top over a small slab and set the belay. You will see two newer anchors with chains. 5 single rope rappels or 3 double rope raps puts you at the base of the climb. This is that rap for Standard Route.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Sentinel Rock : Steck-Salathe (5.10-)
By: Sergio P When: Aug 21, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would agree w/ Scotty Nelson that this route is more then 6-8 hours. We did it in about 14 hours car to car. 1-2 hours for the approach (we got lost) and at least 1 1/2 - 2 1/2 hours for the decent (half of it was in the dark).
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : North Dome
By: Sergio P When: Aug 19, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: More info on the North Dome Gully Descent: Walk north along the top of the dome looking for a trail that eventually heads west. Follow this trail down hill heading slightly away from the dome. If you lose the trail (which I found likely) you will have serious bush whacking good times. Eventually break east crossing the slabs that were seen during the approach. Continue down the slabs until you reach the trail on top of Royal Arches. Follow this trail east going up and over Washington’s Column. A... more >>
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