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Rock Climbing Photo: Deep Throat, threading through the hole and thereb...


Member Since: Dec 18, 2004
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 631
Total Points: 1,162
Last Year: 525
Last 30 Days: 21
43 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 463 | Routes 33 | Areas 3 | Photos 125 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 159 | Posts 29 | Stars 113 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Roadside Rocks : Pep Boys Crag : Fingertip Traverse Of Josh (5.8 PG13)
By: Sean When: Apr 19, 2016

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Comments: that sounds like the start of Two Guys On The Wrong Climb (5.10c) to adjacent left, as described in JT West: "Begin in an easy right-leaning arch left of FTOJ...." but yeah, either start would connect to the full fingertip traverse


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Anthrax Rock : Fistful of Bush (5.4)
By: Sean When: Mar 30, 2016

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Comments: fyi, Fistful Of Bush and Mouthful Of Gank are both on the east face of a small outcrop that's part of the much bigger sprawling Anthrax Rock formation. that small outcrop is located at bottom of the main massive formation's SE rocky slope, facing Dinosaur Rock


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Micro Crag : Wired (5.10b)
By: Sean When: Mar 20, 2016

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Comments: very thin to 0.5", if finishing at the adjacent rap anchor atop The Confessional


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Anthrax Rock : Freddy vs Jason (5.7)
By: Sean When: Mar 20, 2016

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Comments: thanks, Bob. have condensed the two into the one 2-pitch route


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Dinosaur Rock
By: Sean When: Mar 19, 2016

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Comments: no rap anchor off of tied block on east end of summit atop Gorga and Nega as of today. could see where one might've been. we just simul-rapped. one person down the frontside face downward to the start of Nega. the other person down the backside to a wide horizontal gully gap, then veering to skier's left down to the NE corner of the base. be careful not to let rope slide into any of the cracks. able to pull rope with not much drag back down the Gorga Nega frontside. we had a 70m rope (for... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Roadside Rocks : Pep Boys Crag : Yabo Phone Home (5.10c)
By: Sean When: Mar 14, 2016

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Comments: single rack of thins up to a #4. krazy kool fun up high, but yeah, the bottom bit def helps build character. walkoff via downscramble to climber's left


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Rock Garden Valley : Rock Garden Valley - Left S... : Rock-a-Lot (5.7)
By: Sean When: Mar 5, 2016

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Comments: the upper and lower Rock Garden Valley (Shorter) walls are all NE facing, ie, shady most of the day. the sun does arc across the sky a lil differently in the summer than in the winter, that these walls get morning sun for longer in the summer than in the winter


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Little Hunk : Little Hunk - NE Face : ... : Power Line (5.7)
By: Sean When: Mar 4, 2016

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Comments: if topping out, the walkoff to climber's right near the bottom involves downclimbing moderate but still fairly steep slab. go have a look beforehand. also, the topside anchor bolts to climber's right atop Functional Analysis have no rap rings


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Hall of Horrors Area : Hall of Horrors : ... : Exorcist (5.10a)
By: Sean When: Feb 20, 2016

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Comments: rap with a 60 is long enough to reach all the way down to the lowest easy loooong ledge just a few ft above ground


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Cowboy Crags : Wisest Crack (5.7)
By: Sean When: Feb 19, 2016

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Comments: 170 ft from elevated flat starting ledge to the top


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Willit Pillar : ... : Photo
By: Sean When: Feb 5, 2016

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Comments: near the top, instead of turning straight, should continue up and left via an obvious patina gap, to top out on the left summit. the backside rap anchor is approx under the letter "R"


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Moosedog Tower : ... : Photo (Copy)
By: Sean When: Feb 5, 2016

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Comments: Tranquility (4) is mis-drawn here, like in some books. delete or correct this beta photo, so that others wouldn't err onto that much harder right slanting crack above the alcove bolts, or have to by then opt for the left slanting 5.8-ish crack? this particular beta photo still exists under the other correctly drawn routes anyway


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Moosedog Tower : Tranquility (5.6)
By: Sean When: Feb 5, 2016

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Comments: so yeah, above the alcove, the crack to the right, on Tranquility as mis-drawn in some books, is well beyond 5.6


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Moosedog Tower : Racing The Sun (aka Lucky C... (5.7)
By: Sean When: Feb 4, 2016

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Comments: approx 105 ft from sandy dirt starting ledge to the summit gear anchor where Direct South Face and Tranquility top out


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Willit Pillar : Call of the West (5.9)
By: Sean When: Feb 4, 2016

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Comments: sketchy rap anchor as mentioned


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Willit Pillar : South Face Route (5.9)
By: Sean When: Feb 4, 2016

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Comments: fun roof, with two dicey starts to choose from. the direct start (leftmost) does have a decent micro cam placement to help protect, after brushing away the grit and sand inside that tiny horizontal crevice


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Willit Pillar
By: Sean When: Feb 4, 2016

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Comments: rap anchor consists of 2 buttonheads with flimpsy spinners (one badly rusted), as others have mentioned elsewhere


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Cockroach Crag : Classic Corner (5.7)
By: Sean When: Jan 22, 2016

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Comments: stuck stem-less cam at about 15 ft up. lobes all movable, but hard to maneuver it up and out using nut tool as makeshift stem. more so trash clean-up than booty


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Intersection Rock : Overhang Bypass (5.7)
By: Sean When: Jan 22, 2016

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Comments: there's a stuck old style BD green 0.75 in the diagonal crack just before the airy sidepull sequence about halfway up P1, with barely reachable bar trigger


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Doggie Rock : A Dog in Heat is Hard to Be... (5.10b)
By: Sean When: Jan 21, 2016

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Comments: single finger sized cams plus doubles from BD green 0.75 up to yellow #2. a #3 might be helpful for some. smaller anchor placements avail further back. walked off by scrambling off backside and down the obvious gully to skier's left, cutting back around to the frontside (the backside ground level is much lower)

what's the name of the far left crack? led that earlier today. cams to 3.5". fun high roof, but still quite grainy and loose at spots. was hollering down that we likel... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Lost Horse Wall : Lost Horse Wall - Right Sid... : Dappled Mare (5.8)
By: Sean When: Jan 15, 2016

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Comments: have done this route in 2 pitches many times. as mentioned by a few, for manageable rope drag on both pitches, ignore the anchor bolts and set the midway belay at the low point of the traverse, with solid anchor placements avail. no long runout nec if done this way. have often seen parties beeline to the anchor bolts, setting up next leader to have to avoid rope drag by not placing gear across the entire traverse and some ways up after that, with likewise extra stress/fright for the less expr... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Billboard Buttress : Blow (5.10a)
By: Sean When: Jan 2, 2016

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Comments: topside anchor consists of 2 pitons and a bolt, and the bolt is now loose as well

FYI, the topside anchor is not equipped for rap. there are no rap chains or rings. walk off by scrambling up and over the backside, then down either climber's left or climber's right, that both ways reach the ground


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland South : Central Wonderland : ... : Enchanted Stairway (5.9 R)
By: Sean When: Dec 25, 2015

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Comments: backside rap is 80-90 ft, not 120 as indicated in some books


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Mindless Mound : Don't Think Twice (5.9)
By: Sean When: Dec 19, 2015

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Comments: very fun roof. able to anchor with one BD 0.75 and one 1, plus the 4 that could be walked the whole way up the roof and backcleaned to add to the anchor, if that helps to pare down the rack


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Left Hand of Darkness : Left Hand of Darkness - Wes... : Billy Barty Crack (5.10a/b)
By: Sean When: Dec 19, 2015

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Comments: doable with cams up to 0.75, to anchor with rope, or with long cordelette plus another long sling or two. obvious walk off to climber's right


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