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Rock Climbing Photo: Deep Throat, threading through the hole and thereb...


Member Since: Dec 18, 2004
Last Visit: 57 mins ago
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Point Rank: # 697
Total Points: 1,048
Last Year: 488
Last 30 Days: 44
37 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 437 | Routes 27 | Areas 3 | Photos 115 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 150 | Posts 34 | Stars 107 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Willit Pillar : ... : Photo
By: Sean When: 5 days ago

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Comments: near the top, instead of veering straight, should continue up and left via an obvious patina gap, to top out on the left summit. the backside rap anchor is approx under the letter "R"


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Moosedog Tower : ... : Photo (Copy)
By: Sean When: 6 days ago

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Comments: Tranquility (4) is mis-drawn here, like in some books. delete or correct this beta photo? so that others wouldn't err onto that same much harder right slanting crack above the alcove bolts, or have to opt for the left slanting 5.8-ish crack?


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Moosedog Tower : Tranquility (5.6)
By: Sean When: 6 days ago

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Comments: so yeah, above the alcove, the crack to the right, on Tranquility as mis-drawn in some books, is well beyond 5.6


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Moosedog Tower : Racing The Sun (aka Lucky C... (5.7)
By: Sean When: 6 days ago

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Comments: approx 105 ft from sandy dirt starting ledge to the summit gear anchor where Direct South Face and Tranquility top out


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Willit Pillar : Call of the West (5.9)
By: Sean When: 6 days ago

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Comments: sketchy rap anchor as mentioned


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Willit Pillar : South Face Route (5.9)
By: Sean When: 6 days ago

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Comments: fun roof, with 3 dicey starts to choose from. the direct start (leftmost) does have a decent black Alien placement to help protect, after brushing away the grit and sand inside that tiny horizontal crevice


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Willit Pillar
By: Sean When: 6 days ago

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Comments: rap anchor consists of 2 buttonheads with flimpsy spinners (one badly rusted), as others have mentioned elsewhere


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Cockroach Crag : Classic Corner (5.7)
By: Sean When: Jan 22, 2016

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Comments: stuck stem-less cam at about 15 ft up. lobes all movable, but hard to maneuver it up and out using nut tool as makeshift stem. more so trash clean-up than booty


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Intersection Rock : Overhang Bypass (5.7)
By: Sean When: Jan 22, 2016

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Comments: there's a stuck old style BD green 0.75 in the diagonal crack just before the airy sidepull sequence about halfway up P1, with barely reachable bar trigger


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Doggie Rock : A Dog in Heat is Hard to Be... (5.10b)
By: Sean When: Jan 21, 2016

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Comments: single finger sized cams plus doubles from BD green 0.75 up to yellow #2. a #3 might be helpful for some. smaller anchor placements avail further back. walked off by scrambling off backside and down the obvious gully to skier's left, cutting back around to the frontside (the backside ground level is much lower)

what's the name of the far left crack? led that earlier today. cams to 3.5". fun high roof, but still quite grainy and loose at spots. was hollering down that we likel... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Lost Horse Wall : Lost Horse Wall - Right Sid... : Dappled Mare (5.8)
By: Sean When: Jan 15, 2016

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Comments: have done this route in 2 pitches many times. as mentioned by a few, for manageable rope drag on both pitches, ignore the anchor bolts and set the midway belay at the low point of the traverse, with solid anchor placements avail. no long runout nec if done this way. have often seen parties beeline to the anchor bolts, setting up next leader to have to avoid rope drag by not placing gear across the entire traverse and some ways up after that, with likewise extra stress/fright for the less expr... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Billboard Buttress : Blow (5.10c)
By: Sean When: Jan 2, 2016

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Comments: topside anchor consists of 2 pitons and a bolt, and the bolt is now loose as well

FYI, the topside anchor is not equipped for rap. there are no rap chains or rings. walk off by scrambling up and over the backside, then down either climber's left or climber's right, that both ways reach the ground


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland South : Central Wonderland : ... : Enchanted Stairway (5.9 R)
By: Sean When: Dec 25, 2015

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Comments: backside rap is 80-90 ft, not 120 as indicated in some books


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Mindless Mound : Don't Think Twice (5.9)
By: Sean When: Dec 19, 2015

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Comments: very fun roof. able to anchor with one BD 0.75 and one 1, plus the 4 that could be walked the whole way up the roof and backcleaned to add to the anchor, if that helps to pare down the rack


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Left Hand of Darkness : Left Hand of Darkness - Wes... : Billy Barty Crack (5.10a/b)
By: Sean When: Dec 19, 2015

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Comments: doable with cams up to 0.75, to anchor with rope, or with long cordelette plus another long sling or two. obvious walk off to climber's right


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Mounds : Deep Throat (5.9) : Photo
By: Sean When: Dec 19, 2015

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Comments: there's a big gap in btwn the belaying ledge and the visible inside traverse before reaching out to the hole. it's really not that hard to shoulder sling the cams like normal, put that through the hole first, then thread body thru


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Cap Rock Area : Cap Rock : ... : Circus (5.2)
By: Sean When: Dec 19, 2015

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Comments: quite enjoyable, esp the upper finger splitter with plenty of helpful footholds. without those footholds this would be harder. FYI, the anchor bolts atop The Ayatollah has no rap rings or chains. the bolted rap anchor with chains are further on that side past The Ayatollah


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Cap Rock Area : Cap Rock : ... : Circus, Circus (5.9)
By: Sean When: Dec 19, 2015

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Comments: exciting severely steep exit move, tho some chossy bits to get up to that, up a cool ramp. FYI, the bolted anchor to climber's left atop The Ayatollah has no rap rings or chains. there's another bolted rap anchor with chains further left


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Stirrup Tank : Hand Grenade Corridor : Hand Grenade (5.10a)
By: Sean When: Dec 11, 2015

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Comments: the crack itself is pretty clean, albeit more grainy toward the top. most of the loose stuff is on the face right of the crack. lots of crispy flakes and chossy chunks. mind the rope strands above you as you rap. the weighed rope could easily crush or floss off big pieces to plummet down onto you


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Outhouse Wall : Spiderline (5.7)
By: Sean When: Dec 2, 2015

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Comments: rapped via tree sling with a 70 m rope, landing back onto the starting spot (which is higher than the ledges around to climber's left), with a few ft to spare on each strand. clean pull by pulling just to the right of the starting wide cleft


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Birdland (5.7+)
By: Sean When: Dec 1, 2015

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Comments: there's a busted yellow LinkCam on P4, in a horizontal about 25 ft above the start of that pitch. no cam sling and all trigger wires broken. more trash clean-up than booty


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : The Friar and Byrd Pinnacle : Xyphoid Fever (5.10)
By: Sean When: Dec 1, 2015

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Comments: krazy kool OW roof. double small and med cams, plus single #2, #3, #4, #5. first half has all the sweet splitter jamming and wild fun, then a mundane upper half that joins up with the finishes of Byrd Pinnacle Left and Xyphoid Left


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : The Fox Area : The Fox (5.10+) : Photo
By: Sean When: Nov 22, 2015

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Comments: hmm, there's also an easy and fairly obvious walkoff that comes down the other side. from the topside gear belay, facing the backside, take a few steps around left and toward the back, then veer to climber's right and down a rocky gully. no vegetation. it winds down to be level with the long horizontal ledges that could be traversed all the way to climber's left back to the start. pretty quick

there are now also rap chains on top, for use with a 70 probably


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : The Fox Area : The Fox (5.10+)
By: Sean When: Nov 21, 2015

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Comments: felt like a second 5 would be more useful than a 6. evidently there're now bolted rap chains on top. led with a 54m rope and did the easy walkoff


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : The Big Horn (5.8)
By: Sean When: Nov 19, 2015

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Comments: awesome feature pitch up a curving crack that splits the steep black varnish wall, with bulletproof jugs aplenty

the wide start up that feature crack has many positive holds. easy runout, if one doesn't want to bring up a #4

as mentioned, best to rap back down to the base of the feature crack, pull and coil up the rope(s) there, then scramble to climber's right and down to Birdland P2 rap anchor (easier than it looks). pulling joined ropes from lower than the base of that feature crack... more >>


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