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Rock Climbing Photo: Chalking up on Reason To Be (5.11a).


Member Since: Dec 31, 2010
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Sean Godwin

Point Rank: # 2,646
Total Points: 243
Last Year: 242
Last 30 Days: 10
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
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Name Rating Location Comments Tick Date

Titanic

V3 6A (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : Grand Wall Boulders

After much dicking about with heel hooks and ugly moves to avoid pulling so much on the shitty starting crimps, I finally just went for the big right hand move like I'd seen in youtube videos. Sent first try with that beta.

Jan 24, 2016

Crackhead

V3 6A (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : Grand Wall Boulders

Took a while but it felt so good when it went. What a beautiful problem. Hard to believe a v3 can be that overhung with no jugs.

Jan 10, 2016

Squamish Days

V0 4 (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : Grand Wall Boulders

ONSIGHT. Cute little problem with interesting top out in the snow.

Jan 10, 2016

Rocksteady

5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (1 p) 

AZ : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : ... : Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtle...

ONSIGHT. Schmeh. Semi-interesting top section, but nothing special. Reasonably good warm-up area that's warm in the morning and close to the highway.

Nov 14, 2015

Paradox Lost

5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (1 p) 

AZ : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : ... : Paradox Rock

ONSIGHT. 5.9. A fun warm-up that didn't feel like a warm-up for the last bolt (see: beached whale).

Nov 13, 2015

Arizona Flyways

5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a (1 p) 

AZ : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : ... : Anduriel Tower

HD. 5.11c. Can't wait to get on this again. Sustained, hard, and beautiful movement, this route has it all. Two cruxes and two hangs.

Nov 13, 2015

Steve's Arete

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c (1 p) 

AZ : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : ... : Hunchback Pinnacle

REDPOINT. This route is completely bananas. A contender for my favourite climb of all time. Had to get the beta right at the top, and skipped the last bolt!

Nov 12, 2015

Space Cowboy

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a (1 p) 

AZ : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : ... : Wind Wall

HD. I will never get on this again. Absolutely nothing redeeming about it. Contrived, poor bolting, and not sustained at all.

Nov 12, 2015

Dead Pool

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (1 p) 

AZ : Central Arizona : ... : The Pond

ONSIGHT. A good intro to the pocketed rock of Queen Creek Canyon, but I found it hard to put moves together because of the multitude of (albeit neat) pockets.

Nov 11, 2015

Pocket Puzzle

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a (1 p) 

AZ : Central Arizona : ... : The Pond

ONSIGHT. Unreal. How this goes at 5.10a I still don't know. Sightly overhung throughout with awesome (and sometimes hidden) holds. Can understand how this is a total classic.

Nov 11, 2015

The Big Weld Show

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c (1 p) 

AZ : Central Arizona : ... : The Pond

HD. Definitely want to try again. Hard for the middle half. I got super pumped on the monos and pockets. Probably need to figure out the sequence before sending.

Nov 10, 2015

Puppy Chow

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (1 p) 

AZ : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : ... : Lost Hawk

ONSIGHT. Doesn't get much better than this for a 5.8. A++ would warm up again. Exposed and glorious.

Nov 9, 2015

Chihuahua Power

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a (1 p) 

AZ : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : ... : Lost Hawk

ONSIGHT. Brilliant face climb. Really cool holds - including crazy crystal pebbles - and a couple thoughtful bulges.

Nov 9, 2015

The Golden Egg

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a (1 p) 

AZ : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : ... : Goosehead

ONSIGHT. Cool rock in an awesome setting. Fairly straightforward face climbing with quality holds after an initial crack section. Very fun.

Nov 9, 2015

Ego Donor

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a (1 p) 

AZ : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : ... : Swim Fin

ONSIGHT. 5.10a. This felt super stiff, but I loved it nonetheless. Very sustained, with a ruthless first three bolts.

Nov 8, 2015

Nang

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a (1 p) 

AZ : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : ... : North Fin

ONSIGHT. Not good on the toes and nerves. A little bit of everything, with slab, overhanging positive holds, and a terrifying 'walk off'. Glad I did it, but never again.

Nov 8, 2015

Grab em in Da Biscuits

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (1 p) 

AZ : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : ... : Swim Fin

ONSIGHT. Expecting a slabby shitty warm-up, but I enjoyed this route. The moves through the bulge were fun.

Nov 8, 2015

Tony The Tiger

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : Go Anywhere

ONSIGHT. A mediocre warm-up.

Oct 18, 2015

Bottom Line

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : Tottering Pillar

REDPOINT. A completely mind-blowing climb. No individual moves are above a 10c, but it goes on forever. Pumpy and glorious.

Oct 17, 2015

Tethera

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : South Face

ONSIGHT. No point to this climb in my opinion. Ugly and contrived.

Oct 17, 2015

Earth Boys

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b (1 p) 

OR : Smith Rock : ... : Christian Brothers - East S...

ONSIGHT. Funny route with super chalked decoy holds, a sweet juggy horizontal crack, a swing over an areete, and a 5.6 slab finish.

Oct 11, 2015

5 Gallon Buckets

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (1 p) 

OR : Smith Rock : (g) Morning Glory Wall

REPEAT. Best 5.8 I've ever had the pleasure of climbing, hands down.

Oct 11, 2015

Hissing Llamas

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (1 p) 

OR : Smith Rock : ... : (3) Phoenix

REPEAT. So nice. I love the crux layback section.

Oct 11, 2015

Reason To Be

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b (1 p) 

OR : Smith Rock : (q) Mesa Verde Wall

REDPOINT. 5.11a. Beautiful little arete on fantastic rock. Sharp crimps and left hand arete slapping. Super delicate moves that need body tension and high, bad feet. Awesome.

Oct 10, 2015

Phantasmagoria

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b (1 p) 

OR : Smith Rock : (u) Red Wall

ONSIGHT. Spicy first two bolts and unrelenting technical climbing on small holds. Hard to believe it goes at the grade, but it does! Excellent.

Oct 9, 2015

Morning Sky

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b (1 p) 

OR : Smith Rock : (g) Morning Glory Wall

ONSIGHT. Ew. Unnecessarily dangerous first bolt and run-out for the bolt after. Awkward, annoying movement on shitty holds, with a distracting 5.7 jugfest in the middle.

Oct 9, 2015

Wherever I May Roam

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a (5 p) 

OR : Smith Rock : ... : (6) Northwest Face

ONSIGHT. The last three pitches are where it's at. P3 is unreal. Rappel needs a 70m rope!

Oct 9, 2015

Charlotte's Web

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a (2 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : Conroy's Castle

ONSIGHT. Really interesting, white-striped rock with good crimps, high feet, and fluid slab movements.

Oct 5, 2015

Star Chek

5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (3 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : Galaxy Buttress

ONSIGHT. Easy, exposed climb up an arete. Gorgeous view. Two star climb, five star experience.

Oct 5, 2015

Bonfire

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : The Terraces

ONSIGHT. A couple nice moves right in the middle, but top and bottom leave something to be desired.

Sep 27, 2015

Mea Culpa

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : Tippling Tower

ONSIGHT. What a nutty climb. The whole thing feels like an adventure. Super varied climbing on what seems like a pile of choss. Came off with a huge smile on my face.

Sep 26, 2015

Hypocritical Alternative Billing

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : Doctor's Wall

ONSIGHT. A pleasant route on nice holds that is marred somewhat by a massive ledge that breaks up the flow.

Sep 26, 2015

Tan

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : South Face

FLASH. A great little warm-up with fun stemming and a nice sequence through the crux bulge.

Sep 20, 2015

Fine Lime

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : South Face

ONSIGHT. Interrupted climbing with hard first bolt. Every five moves there's a ledge to plan ahead.

Sep 20, 2015

Bolt Warts

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : Raspberry Mourning

REDPOINT. SO stoked to send this with Kev. Not the most outstanding climb, but DAMN it felt good.

Sep 20, 2015

Sidewinder

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : East Face

ONSIGHT. Easy and super flowy climbing up to the crux just after the 5th (6th?) bolt. Awesome finish to trip.

Sep 20, 2015

Viagra

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : Go Anywhere

ONSIGHT. I LOVED this route. It climbs as if it was made to be climbed. Big moves with footwork needed.

Sep 19, 2015

All the Way to Pluto

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : Go Anywhere

ONSIGHT. Schmeh. A bit stiff for Skaha.

Sep 19, 2015

Watching Banana's Bend

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : Screeching Wall (Maternal G...

ONSIGHT. Oh god the pump. Meanders up the wall and forces some fun footwork.

Jul 24, 2015

Plum Line

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : (b) Plum Wall

ONSIGHT. I agree with the original 5.9 rating and not PG13. A great way to finish off the trip.

Jul 24, 2015

Snarling at the Greeter

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : The Terraces

ONSIGHT. What a route! Great holds and nothing but satisfaction after the pump.

Jul 23, 2015

The Raven and the Bear

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : Raven's Castle

ONSIGHT. An absurd route that's impossible to climb without a smile on your face.

Jul 23, 2015

Ace

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : Raspberry Mourning

ONSIGHT. Short, overhung, and challenging only at the third bolt. Worth a try if passing by.

Jul 23, 2015

Preface

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : (c) Lower Red Tail

ONSIGHT. I don't remember much about this one, but I came down happy that I climbed it.

Jul 22, 2015

Mother Superior

5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : (c) Lower Red Tail

ONSIGHT. Fine, but nothing special. Seemingly few other options at the grade.

Jul 22, 2015

Stouthearted

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : (b) Plum Wall

ONSIGHT. Would rate 3.5 if I could. Beautiful, LONG line with a pumpy finish.

Jul 22, 2015

Life in the Slow Lane

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : The Terraces

ONSIGHT. Gorgeous. Amazing to have two classics right next to each other. Technical moves interspersed with bomber jugs.

Jul 22, 2015

I Climb in Peace

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : Marbles Wall

ONSIGHT. Super licheny, but surprisingly good. Gorgeous view. Awkward to clean draws on rappel!

Apr 22, 2015

Hokey Pokey

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : The Pillary

ONSIGHT. A couple cool (and surprisingly burly) moves while wedged in, but otherwise unspectactular.

Feb 22, 2015

Le Trash Blanc

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : The Pillary

ONSIGHT. Great climbing in the second half. Holds unlike those usually found at Squamish!

Feb 22, 2015

Lowbrow Hijinks

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : The Pillary

REDPOINT. A beautiful climb. Needed to know the moves to finish it. 'Alternately tenuous and juggy'.

Feb 22, 2015

A Beautiful Day

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : The Pillary

ONSIGHT. Had trouble at the second/third bolt, but after that it was neat climbing through a bulge with nice cracks and laybacks.

Feb 22, 2015

Fall For It

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : The Pillary

ONSIGHT. Did not enjoy this at all, minus the novelty. Awkward moves and bolts poorly placed.

Feb 22, 2015

(12) Blue de Jour

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : Preview

ONSIGHT. A nice little arete with interesting moves and good feet.

Feb 15, 2015

(9) I'm not against it

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : Preview

ONSIGHT. Not the best (or hardest) 5.8 in the world, but a cool couple moves through the flake.

Feb 15, 2015

Attachment Theory

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : Marbles Wall

ONSIGHT. A little thin at the end, but it's all there. A bit wet at the top. Fun crimps!

Feb 15, 2015

Sideshow

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : Upper Gully

ONSIGHT. Wasn't expecting anything of this climb, but it was great. Fantastic, technical, balancy moves.

Feb 15, 2015

The World's Toughest Milkman

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : The Milkman's Wall

TOPROPE. Called a 5.9 in the book, but I can believe 5.8. Overhung but beautiful holds and movement.

Feb 6, 2015

Jugs, Not Drugs

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : The Milkman's Wall

ONSIGHT. Short and sweet.

Feb 6, 2015

Rocky Horror

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : Upper Gully

REDPOINT. Super pumpy. Super worth it. Invisible, reachy jug at the first crux (first bulge).

Feb 6, 2015

(7) I might possibly consider that

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : Preview

ONSIGHT. A good warm-up, but nothing special. Big holds!

Feb 6, 2015

Round There

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b (1 p) 

OR : Smith Rock : ... : (1) Koala Rock

ONSIGHT. Called a 5.7 in the book, and only because of the short crux at the bottom. The rest is pure 5.6, but still worth a run up. Really interesting holds on featured rock, and an unbeatable view at the top.

Aug 25, 2014

Phoenix

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a (1 p) 

OR : Smith Rock : ... : (3) Phoenix

ONSIGHT. Really nice sequence on jugs, solid side pulls, and positive edges up to a super thin crux on monos and small crimps. High feet in the middle of your body are crucial. Loses a star because its not sustained climbing, but still a fantastic climb

Aug 25, 2014

Peanut Brittle

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 (1 p) 

OR : Smith Rock : (h) The Peanut

ONSIGHT. Not fun. A thin, slabby route with a low crux. Not very fun. Ugly sequences and might climb higher than its grade. Must be popular because of its proximity to Morning Glory Wall, but there are much nicer 5.8s at Smith.

Aug 25, 2014

Hissing Llamas

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (1 p) 

OR : Smith Rock : ... : (3) Phoenix

ONSIGHT. An absolutely gorgeous line with huge jugs, positive edges, and attractive rock. Interesting layback section just before the second topmost bolt is the crux. Super flowy. One of the best 5.8s I've ever climbed.

Aug 24, 2014

JT's Route

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b (1 p) 

OR : Smith Rock : ... : (3) Phoenix

ONSIGHT. Phenomenal. Gradually gets harder as you work your way up. Shake out before pushing through the bulge full of crimps, side pulls, and intense movements.

Aug 24, 2014

Light on the Path

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a (1 p) 

OR : Smith Rock : (g) Morning Glory Wall

ONSIGHT. Edgy start followed by a fun jughaul of similar difficulty to Five Gallon Buckets (5.8) a couple climbs over. Finishes with the super crimpy two or three-bolt sequence that gives this climb its grade.

Aug 24, 2014

Dancer

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b (1 p) 

OR : Smith Rock : ... : Christian Brothers - East S...

ONSIGHT. Not a favourite. Most difficult at the start with an easy slab to finish. Tons of neat knobs.

Aug 24, 2014

5 Gallon Buckets

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (1 p) 

OR : Smith Rock : (g) Morning Glory Wall

FLASH. Just a beautiful climb. Flowy moves and spectacular, featured rock

Aug 24, 2014

Short Sharp Shock

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b (1 p) 

OR : Smith Rock : ... : (2) Brogan Spire

ONSIGHT. Best 10b at Smith? Hard to compete with JT's Route, but this one might do it. Short and sweet. Went to climb the 10a, but this route was just too attractive not to climb. Climb it fast. An amazing hike as well.

Aug 24, 2014

Sunset Slab

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a (1 p) 

OR : Smith Rock : ... : (7) Flounder and Cod Rock

ONSIGHT. Slabby, but not very technical. High feet, small crimps, a couple neat pockets. Not worth the trek or the high rating in the guidebook, but the hike is wonderful in and of itself.

Aug 23, 2014

Bunny Face

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b (2 p) 

OR : Smith Rock : (k) The Dihedrals

ONSIGHT. Knobby. Really neat holds, but not the most inspiring slab.

Aug 23, 2014

Helium Woman

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a (1 p) 

OR : Smith Rock : (k) The Dihedrals

ONSIGHT. Pretty average. Small holds, with the hardest section in the first 3 bolts.

Aug 23, 2014

Snake Skin Slab

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (1 p) 

NH : *Rumney : 5.8 Crag

ONSIGHT. Very easy, but the run out makes you think twice.

Oct 10, 2011

Rise and Shine

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b (1 p) 

NH : *Rumney : The Parking Lot Wall

ONSIGHT. So busy, but a fun route.

Oct 10, 2011

No Money Down

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b (1 p) 

NH : *Rumney : ... : No Money Down (Left)

REDPOINT. Finally. Fifth try... not one to project.

Oct 10, 2011

Oby-won Ryobi

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a (1 p) 

NH : *Rumney : Darth Vader

ONSIGHT. Pretty easy for the grade.

Oct 9, 2011

Underdog

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a (1 p) 

NH : *Rumney : Main Cliff

REDPOINT. Didn't find it as fantastic as most people claim. The triangle hold is pretty neat and there are a couple fun moves, but I mostly felt awkward on it - to each their own. There are better holds at the crux, you just have to find them!

Aug 23, 2011

Millenium Falcon

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b (1 p) 

NH : *Rumney : Main Cliff

REDPOINT. Can't say enough about this climb, it's just gorgeous. Really sustained and hard climbing for the six bolts in the middle. Had to rest for about a year after the ledge. I found this much harder than other 5.10+s at Rumney, but so much more fun.

Aug 23, 2011

Masterpiece

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a (1 p) 

NH : *Rumney : Bonsai

ONSIGHT. Except for the crux move at the third bolt (easier if you're taller!), was a fairly straight forward jug haul. The run out dihedral climbing at the end is a little nerve-racking, but easy climbing. Really enjoyed it.

Aug 22, 2011

Lonesome Dove

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a (1 p) 

NH : *Rumney : Jimmy Cliff

FLASH. I generally don't like slabby outdoor climbs, but this one was beautiful. Really fun, aesthetic moves.

Aug 22, 2011

Peer Pressure

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b (1 p) 

NH : *Rumney : Bonsai

FLASH. Found it pretty easy for the grade because I'm used to pumpy overhung jug hauls from indoor climbs. Take advantage of the sit down rest halfway up. The last hold at the v-notch is the nicest thing you've ever felt.

Aug 22, 2011

Mutiny

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b (1 p) 

NH : *Rumney : The Crow's Nest

FLASH. Not a strenuous climb, but definitely a tricky crux by the last bolt. Look for the pockets and reach!

Apr 22, 2011

Land Ho!

5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (1 p) 

NH : *Rumney : The Crow's Nest

ONSIGHT. Only one of the six people in my group who climbed this liked it (although he thought it was great). Hard moves for the grade in between first and third bolt.

Apr 22, 2011

Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medication

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b (1 p) 

NH : *Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M...

ONSIGHT. This route has it all. Technical crimpy moves for the first few bolts and a pumpy jug haul at the end that burns if you don't have pre-hung draws. Climbs at the grade. Most enjoyable 5.10 I've climbed at Rumney, save perhaps Jolt.

Apr 21, 2011

Men In White Suits

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a (1 p) 

NH : *Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M...

ONSIGHT. It was alright. Sharp interesting holds at bottom with a small overhanging crux at the end (get high feet and reach!). Short.

Apr 21, 2011

Metamorphosis

5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (1 p) 

NH : *Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M...

ONSIGHT. Definitely one long pitch rather than two pitches. Great jug haul with a couple short crimpy cruxes. The shorter people in the group absolutely loved this climb, for what that's worth! Fantastic 5.8+.

Apr 21, 2011

Where in The World Is Carmen Pellegrino?

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : Great Expectations Area (FT...

ONSIGHT. Not a sport route. I thought there must be a bolt over the ledge before the flake. There's not. Luckily the top is the easiest part of the climb; the last bolt is under 2/3 way up the wall and the fall would have been a bone breaker.

Apr 1, 2011

Unemployment Line

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (1 p) 

AZ : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : ... : Left Hand Wall

ONSIGHT. This climb isn't getting the credit it deserves. Yes it's close to the road and in a popular area, but it has really interesting movements and fun holds. Start is hard for the grade (5.9ish?) but fun with both hands in cracks three feet apart.

Jan 2, 2011

No Slack at GAC

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R (1 p) 

AZ : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : ... : Tweener Wall

ONSIGHT. Definitely make sure to leave a few directionals for your second, and bring an older rope to beat up! Fun though... really interesting features. Didn't know about the R rating.

Jan 2, 2011

Makin Muffins

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b (1 p) 

AZ : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : ... : Swim Fin

ONSIGHT. It was alright. Slabby warm-up.

Dec 29, 2010

Drilling for Dollars

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (1 p) 

NH : *Rumney : Jimmy Cliff

ONSIGHT. The only reason I sent this was because I was too scared to fall. Awkward clips right at the end of your reach; first clip is 12 feet up and then has a 25 foot runout (albeit on easy rock).

Oct 11, 2010

Junco

5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (1 p) 

NH : *Rumney : Jimmy Cliff

ONSIGHT. Variety of climbing techniques, awesome rock, incredible view. Definitely a 5.8+ as in the guidebook though, maybe even a 5.9; my feet came off in the 'tricky layback section' described in the guidebook.

Oct 11, 2010

Things I Never Learned

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a (1 p) 

NH : *Rumney : Jimmy Cliff

ONSIGHT. Underestimated this route and fell on the first move. Took a step back, thought about it, and had no troubles with sending it. Good beta makes the first part a very satisfying section. Great 5.9 with good holds the whole way up.

Oct 11, 2010

Teacher’s Pet

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b (1 p) 

NH : *Rumney : Jimmy Cliff

ONSIGHT. Honestly thought the start was more 5.8/5.9 than 5.7. After the first 3 bolts, inclines almost to a scramble. Turn around and enjoy the fantastic view near the top.

Oct 11, 2010

Chicken Head

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (1 p) 

NH : *Rumney : The Hinterlands

ONSIGHT. A great warm-up with super interesting rock formations.

Oct 10, 2010

Chicken Parts

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a (1 p) 

NH : *Rumney : The Hinterlands

ONSIGHT. Barely got through a pretty technical section about halfway up this short climb. Really interesting middle section.

Oct 10, 2010

Dolt

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a (1 p) 

NH : *Rumney : The Hinterlands

ONSIGHT. I actually liked this better than Jolt. In fact, I would go so far as saying this is my favourite climb to date. I thought it was closer to 5.10a than 5.9, but each to their own! Cannot recommend more highly.

Oct 10, 2010

Jolt

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a (1 p) 

NH : *Rumney : The Hinterlands

ONSIGHT. Second only to Dolt as my favourite climb at Rumney.

Oct 10, 2010

Boeing

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : 18 - Le Fou

REDPOINT. Really enjoyed this route, particularly the first three bolts. Fantastic warm-up for Exacto to the right.

Sep 25, 2010

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