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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress : The Moonlight Buttress (Fre... (5.12d)
By: Scotty Nelson When: Apr 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Can anyone comment on what time the route goes into the shade in April?
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Broken Tooth : Gold Crown (5.11-)
By: Scotty Nelson When: Feb 20, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this is the same route as "unnamed 10+"?
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Escalante Canyon : The Pot Holes Area : Photo
By: Scotty Nelson When: Oct 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow! Looks precarious....
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Rostrum : The North Face (5.11c)
By: Scotty Nelson When: Jul 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is the Rostrum still closed?
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Location: CO : New Nose Record - 2:23:51 (...
By: Scotty Nelson When: Jun 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: What was the old record?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Vampire Rock
By: Scotty Nelson When: Jun 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I may have lost a GriGri2 (orange) here a few weeks ago. If anyone finds it, I would be eternally grateful if you could get it back to me! Thanks, Scotty
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas : Hornets Nest
By: Scotty Nelson When: May 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: As far as I can tell, these are the routes left L-->R starting from the Northeast (approx) face:
1) Pollinator 10b/c (variation to WASP)
2) WASP 9
These three are located on the north facing panel:
3) Butterfly 12c/d
4) Mothra 13a
5) Beetlejuice 12a/b
North west face corridor
6) Swarm 12b
7) Anaphalytic Shock 11-
West face directly next to the trail:
8) Mr Critical 11
9) Critical Cowboy ?
10) Lonesome Cowboy 12+
11) Second Hand Rose Arete 6
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas : Hornets Nest : Anaphylactic Shock (5.11-)
By: Scotty Nelson When: May 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is this the route that goes up the arete? There seem to be 3 routes on this face. The left one looks like it goes through a nice brown patina patch. There is the middle one which looks tuff and then this one which seems to go up the arete. Can we clarify what these 3 routes are L --> R?
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : The Scenic Cruise (5.10d)
By: Scotty Nelson When: May 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Contrary to the comments here, we found P4 / aka the pitch before the Peg traverse to be NTB / 5.10- as stated on the topo. P6 / after the Peg Traverse was burly, undoubtedly the crux for us. Make sure to take a C4 Camalot on this pitch. Also, if I do the route again, I would like to take a drill kit and replace the horrible rivet on P10. That move is kind of hard and unnecessarily dangerous. If there's a hole already there, there's no good reason not to put a proper bolt in it.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Unfamiliar Strangers (5.9+)
By: Scotty Nelson When: May 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This would be a good beginner lead, if it weren't for the pointless runout at the top. Who bolted this thing?
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Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge
By: Scotty Nelson When: Jan 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is going here in winter a bad idea?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Friends in High Places (5.10a)
By: Scotty Nelson When: Dec 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Purple TCU protects the spooky 5.9 step off the ledge. The second crux section near the pin also protects well with a blue HB brassie.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Fin Wall : Double Trouble (5.11-)
By: Scotty Nelson When: Oct 11, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Kind of sandy on 10/9/2011.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Rewritten (5.7)
By: Scotty Nelson When: Oct 3, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed this route a few weeks ago and cleaned a cam for a couple from Louisville. We were slow coming down and never caught up with you. If you want your cam back, PM me with the description. Thanks, Scotty
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Location: CO : Independence Pass
By: Scotty Nelson When: Jun 20, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Can anyone offer any suggestions on where to camp, for a weekend climbing trip to IP? I'm worried with the proximity to Aspen there aren't many good options.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Cynical Pinnacle : Wunsch's Dihedral (5.11) : Photo
By: Scotty Nelson When: Jan 15, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great overview.
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas : Bird's Nest : Ladies in Love aka: Lesbia... (5.12b/c) : Photo
By: Scotty Nelson When: Jul 17, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rad!
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Photo
By: Scotty Nelson When: Jul 17, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great shot!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Witches' Tower : War is Love (5.11b/c)
By: Scotty Nelson When: Jun 21, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Disagree. Licheny and disturbingly close to the other routes. Not bad, just not that good either.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : Cozyhang (5.7) : Photo
By: Scotty Nelson When: Mar 30, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good headjamming technique here.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Grandmother's Challenge (5.10c)
By: Scotty Nelson When: Mar 22, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Less bird crap than compared to the fall right now. Can link all the way to the tree in one long pitch with a 70m.
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Location: CA : Sequoia & Kings Canyon Nati... : Kings Canyon
By: Scotty Nelson When: Mar 20, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Check out this trip report and another TR here.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Pony Express (5.11c)
By: Scotty Nelson When: Mar 20, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed it a few weeks ago, no wasps present.
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Needles Eye : Needle's Eye : Threading the Needle (5.8+) : Photo
By: Scotty Nelson When: Feb 23, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey this picture is in John Long's "How to Rock Climb"
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Barker Dam Area : Photo
By: Scotty Nelson When: Nov 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Adorable!
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