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Member Since: Oct 6, 2008
Last Visit: Aug 18, 2014
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Point Rank: # 2,195
Total Points: 252
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 251 | Routes 10 | Areas 2 | Photos 20 | Page Improvements | Comments 22 | Posts 17 | Stars 121 | Ratings 59

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock
By: scotthsu When: Oct 1, 2009

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Comments: A couple of us (including both bolting and anti-bolting advocates) have begun informal discussions on if/how the Los Alamos & White Rock bolting agreement might be re-written. I am trying to act as a neutral moderator during this process.

I ask everyone who cares about this issue to please post at this new forum thread and express... more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock
By: scotthsu When: Aug 17, 2009

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Comments: To all Los Alamos and White Rock climbers, this just posted at lamountaineers.org:

Call for Volunteers to Review the "Bolting Agreement for Los Alamos Climbing Areas"

The Board of Directors of the Los Alamos Mountaineers is seeking one or preferably two Los Alamos area climbers who are willing to lead a team of climbers at-large in a review of the Bolting Agreement for Los Alamos Climbing Areas that was originally written in ... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : San Juans : Dallas Peak : East Face/Dallas Peak (5.3) : Photo
By: scotthsu When: Aug 10, 2009

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Comments: This is not the class 5.3 summit pitch. Rather, it is the 4th class pitch that brings you to the north side of the summit block.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Traditional Area : Chile Verde (5.6)
By: scotthsu When: Aug 9, 2009

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Comments: We did a slight variation of p2 today. Instead of going up the left facing dihedral, I stepped out climber's right onto the face and went up over a bulge and then another bulge (5.8) before some easier climbing up to the bolted anchors. This pitch has a lot of options, and although the rock is somewhat broken in places, I thought it was still worth doing. (Gary Clark's guide, under the Refritos route description, said the rock is poor quality and not worth doing.)


Location: NM : El Rito
By: scotthsu When: Aug 9, 2009

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Comments: Went to the trad area today, no run-ins with locals nor falcons, just the typical great solitary day with no other parties on the wall. (Arrived around 9:30am, departed just before 3pm.) I did hear a gunshot off in the distance around 11:30am or noon, though.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Traditional Area : Swollen (5.7+ PG13)
By: scotthsu When: Aug 9, 2009

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Comments: Hadn't done this variation before. Nice route, maybe one of my new favorites pitches at the trad area. Good exposed climbing with holds and pro just where you need them. I thought the climbing was 5.6 or easier until the final headwall with a 5.7 finish.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : San Juans : Dallas Peak : East Face/Dallas Peak (5.3)
By: scotthsu When: Aug 3, 2009

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Comments: We used one 60m rope to rap through the hole beneath the chockstone to solid ground. Another climber informed me that a 60m reaches the ground as well if you have to go over top of the chockstone.

Click here for TR.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Playground : Unrelenting Nines (5.11c/d)
By: scotthsu When: Aug 2, 2009

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Comments: George, I agree that Chuck's offer to teach trad gear placement could easily be interpreted to be condescending, but I do not think he intended it that way.

Daniel, I agree that another meeting is needed to clarify the community agreement, preferably with both sides present. Compromise will clearly be required.

The present state of matters is unsustainable, both from the perspective of the rock and the wallets of those (such as Jason) putting up the anchors.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Playground : Unrelenting Nines (5.11c/d)
By: scotthsu When: Jul 31, 2009

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Comments: I do not know if he is the responsible "bolt-chopper" on this route, but Chuck C. gave a short presentation at the June meeting of the Los Alamos Mountaineers with a plea that is consistent with Sec. E of the 2004 revised Los Alamos Climbing Area agreement, which reads "Anchors should not be placed at the top of climbs that are easily and safely set with traditional gear." For those that missed the presentation, Chuck used several short video clips to show that in each instance multiple traditi... more >>


Location: NM : El Rito
By: scotthsu When: Jul 18, 2009

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Comments: The recent comments about threatening locals concerns me. As Jason Halladay said above, I've frequented El Rito (mostly the trad area) since 2003, probably been there well over 2 dozen times, and I've never encountered a single problem with threatening locals. We typically show up around 8 or 9am on a Sat or Sun morning and depart around 3-5pm. I haven't been there yet in 2009, so I wonder if this is a newly developing problem. I also wonder exactly where the incidents described above happen... more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Gallows Edge : Main Wall : R.O.U.S. (Rodents Of Unusua... (5.7)
By: scotthsu When: Jun 27, 2009

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Comments: We didn't see any ROUS today! They either left for more fertile routes, or somebody absconded with them.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Traditional Area : Photo
By: scotthsu When: Oct 22, 2008

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Comments: Big kudos to you guys! Hope to see all of you out again at El Rito sometime!
-Scott & Amy


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Gallows Edge : Main Wall : R.O.U.S. (Rodents Of Unusua... (5.7)
By: scotthsu When: Oct 19, 2008

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Comments: Fun climb. Thanks Jason and Allison for putting up the line! I did in fact encounter a ROUS, which I thought increased the difficulty of the route to at least 5.7+.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Independence Gully : Independence Day (5.9)
By: scotthsu When: Oct 18, 2008

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Comments: William, Jay, thanks for the clarifications! I have made a slight edit above.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Muralla Grande : The Second Coming (5.8)
By: scotthsu When: Oct 14, 2008

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Comments: I second Bill Lawry's comment above (Nov 8, 2006) about taking a more direct line if you want the 5.8 finish for p4. We belayed at the bolt and piton at the top of p3 directly below the headwall, and from there it is a somewhat scary traverse to the right to reach the 5.8 crack. A fall would be a bad pendulum for both leader and second. We didn't see the "shiny bolts" below and to the right of the pin/bolt anchor, but we didn't look for them (not knowing about them ahead of time).

I think we... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Grizzly Peak : Grizzly Couloir (Steep Snow)
By: scotthsu When: Oct 11, 2008

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Comments: Trip report of our climb and ski descent from June 21, 2008.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Capitol Peak : Northeast Ridge (Knife-Edge...
By: scotthsu When: Oct 11, 2008

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Comments: Trip report from our climb of Aug. 21, 2008.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : San Juans : The Grenadiers : Vestal Peak : Wham Ridge (5.4 R)
By: scotthsu When: Oct 10, 2008

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Comments: Trip report from our climb on July 2, 2005.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : San Juans : The Needles : Jagged Mountain : Normal Route (5.2)
By: scotthsu When: Oct 10, 2008

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Comments: Trip report from our climb of July 2, 2006.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : The Crestones : Kit Carson / The Prow (5.8 R)
By: scotthsu When: Oct 10, 2008

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Comments: Trip report of our climb of the Prow on Aug. 18, 2007. We tagged Challenger Point, Kit Carson Peak, Columbia Point, and Obstruction Peak while we were up there.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Northern San Juans : Lizard Head : Southwest Chimney (5.8 R)
By: scotthsu When: Oct 10, 2008

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Comments: Trip report from our climb on Sep. 13, 2008. Felt great to get this summit!


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Northern ... : Rio Arriba County (Brazos, ... : Brazos Cliffs
By: scotthsu When: Oct 10, 2008

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Comments: I have a photocopy of the very nice March 1972 T & T article on the Brazos Cliffs by George Bell, Sr. It is a fantastic read. Please feel free to contact me if you're interested in reading the T&T article.