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Location: WA : Leavenworth : Tumwater Canyon : Castle Rock : Canary (5.8) : Photo
By: ScottH When: Mar 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: SketchE-- That could certainly be your picture. I stole it off the internet when the WA section of this website was just getting started, because this classic route needed some eye candy to get people psyched up about the database. I'd be happy to contact the admins and make sure you get credit for that great shot.
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Location: WA : Leavenworth : Icicle Creek : Duty Dome Area : Peek-a-boo Tower : Yard Art (5.9)
By: ScottH When: Dec 4, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's in the Kramar guidebook. After moving the belay on the ledge above yard art p3, you can finish with p4 or do lawn darts (or both). Probably pretty cold up there this time of year.
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Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : The Bugaboos : Snowpatch Spire : Southeast Corner "Snowpatch... (5.7)
By: ScottH When: Oct 16, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Regardless of whether the route is or is not long or intricate, the description certainly is brief to the point of useless.
Not being a jerk, just calling it like it is.
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Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Sea to Sky Corridor : Chek : ... : Dark Don't Lie (5.11a)
By: ScottH When: Sep 6, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is a definite step up from Kigijushi, as everything is less positive and the climbing is certainly less straightforward. The crux at the first bulge has marginal holds on tricky feet. The second crux is probably easier, but not with the pump. Most of the holds are positive, but small and directional. Look around for the best way.
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Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Malamute : High Mountain Woody (5.8+)
By: ScottH When: Sep 6, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a nice climb and refreshingly long. It's about 45m, but seems like it keeps going and going. I don't think gear larger than a #2 Camalot is really necessary. There are possibilities for larger placements, but there is typically something smaller nearby.
It's possible to access the base of the climb with a single rope by hiking (or rapping, but why bother) to the base of Paul's Crack (described for that route), then making a short rappel to the base of HWM.
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Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Malamute
By: ScottH When: Sep 6, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of 9/1/07, the majority of felled trees have been cleared from the top of the Malamute. It is straightforward to hike through the clear cut using the trail that begins from the parking lot at the chief. For updates on access at the Malamute, refer to this page maintained by the Squamish Access Society:
http://www.squamishaccess.ca/News/Malamute.html
The logging was illegal and will carry a fine of $1,000-$10,000 per tree. At 1,400+ trees, that adds up pretty quick.
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Location: WA : Leavenworth : Icicle Creek : Clamshell Cave
By: ScottH When: Jun 21, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The anchors on this crag have hangers, but (strangely) no quicklinks for lowering. I have seen ropes get stuck when people attempt to pull them after rappelling, necessitating a hike around to the top of the crag. If anyone is so inclined, adding quicklinks to the anchors would be a nice improvement to the area.
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Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Sea to Sky Corridor : Chek : Conroy's Castle
By: ScottH When: May 16, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The routes on Conroy's Castle are worth running up at the end of the day for the views of the Tantalus range alone.
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Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Sea to Sky Corridor : Chek : ... : Charlotte's Web (5.9)
By: ScottH When: May 16, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: "An enjoyable puzzle" = "tricky and spooky" in the margin of my guidebook.
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Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Sea to Sky Corridor : Chek : ... : Bullet the Blue Car (5.10d)
By: ScottH When: May 16, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is one of my favorite routes at Chek. Reasonably technical and thoughtful climbing all the way up. Great fun.
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Location: WA : Leavenworth : Icicle Creek : Duty Dome Area : Fish Wall : Sardine Routine (5.9)
By: ScottH When: Apr 11, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The anchor on this route needs some help. If you go up there, bring a knife and some webbing to replace the old tat.
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Location: WA : Leavenworth : Icicle Creek : Duty Dome Area : Peek-a-boo Tower : Yard Art (5.9)
By: ScottH When: Apr 9, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I wouldn't call the groove nasty. No weird slime, no moss, no debris, positive features and reasonable gear-- I think it's worth doing once, as it's not the sort of thing you climb often. Regardless, I heartily second the recommendation for Lawn Darts.
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Location: WA : Spokane Area : McLellan Rocks : White Wall : Tizzy (5.10a/b)
By: ScottH When: Apr 4, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The rock on this route is kind of junky and the climbing feels very awkward. It also felt fairly hard for 10a/b.
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Location: WA : Spokane Area : McLellan Rocks : The Hood : Arden's Happy Place (5.11+)
By: ScottH When: Apr 4, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The move left from VMS is very challenging, and none of the angles are quite what they seem from the ground.
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Location: WA : Exit 38/ Far Side : Neverland
By: ScottH When: Aug 28, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm not sure if a good description of Neverland is available in the new edition of the Exit 38 guidebook. Working from the information available online, I've described the routes here using the same numbering schemes that are used on northbendrock.com (Garth Bruce's page). It would be nice to update this site with the route names and FA info if/when it becomes available.
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Location: WA : Leavenworth : Icicle Creek : Condor Buttress : Condorphamine Addiction (5.10b)
By: ScottH When: May 31, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I recently heard that a single rope rappel off the backside of the rock will get you to the ground. You can then hike around the right of the crag back to the base.
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Location: WA : Vantage (Frenchman Coulee) : Sunshine Wall : Stems and Seeds Area : Hakuna Matata (5.10-)
By: ScottH When: Mar 8, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this is more than a one move wonder. There is good 5.10 climbing several places on the climb, and it's reasonably continuous. The movement is better than many of the monotonous climbs at Vantage.
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : West Ship River Face : Phone Call From Satan (5.9)
By: ScottH When: Mar 8, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This first part of this route is steep climbing between giant huecos, and involves some reachy moves. Shorter people seem to have a harder time during the first half of the climb than others, but work your feet up and you will be fine-- the holds are huge and very positive (once you get to them). When you hit the red band of rock below the anchor pay attention-- there are a couple of loose blocks lurking-- make sure you avoid them.
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Location: WA : Vantage (Frenchman Coulee) : Sunshine Wall : Twin Cracks Area : Party in Your Pants (5.8)
By: ScottH When: Feb 9, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Having somehow managed to introduce this route without a description, I'll put it in here. Party in your Pants ascends a pair of parallel crack systems just left of Easy Off. Stem and jam your way up the steep corners and past a series of wavy bulges, which provide the crux moves. Fairly continuous 5.8 climbing. Bring gear to 3".
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Location: WA : Vantage (Frenchman Coulee)
By: ScottH When: Feb 4, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is free camping available at Vantage, limited to the area on the south side of the Feathers. If you are climbing for the day or camping, please note that you are required to display one of the yellow Fish and Wildlife Deparment stickers on your vehicle. There is a fairly substanstial ticket if you are caught without one. You can pick up the stickers many places in Seattle, and Fred Meyer in Ellensburg sells them as well.
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Location: WA : Leavenworth : Icicle Creek : Snow Creek Wall : Outer Space (5.9)
By: ScottH When: Feb 2, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: It would be great to have more info about that rap route on the site-- it's the first I've heard of it.
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Location: WA : Leavenworth : Icicle Creek : Condor Buttress : Condorphamine Addiction (5.10b)
By: ScottH When: Feb 2, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is an alternate start to the first pitch of this climb which is located just to the left and shares the anchor. It is Opus of the Condorian Kind (5.10a), and a good way to increase the difficulty of the route.
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Location: WA : Leavenworth : Icicle Creek : Snow Creek Wall
By: ScottH When: Feb 1, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The descent off of Snow Creek Wall is probably not that complicated in the day, but if you find yourself doing it for the first time at night, as I did, you will be hating life. Here are some general tips:
1) From the top, do not descend the first gully. Cross the gully and begin descending the rib to its right. There is some downclimbing here, but you will eventually find a trail.
2) You will be heading generally down and right, towards the creek. After crossing a slab, head down.
3) You... more >>
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Morning Glory Wall : Gumby (5.10b)
By: ScottH When: Jan 31, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is an excellent variation to this climb that is the best single pitch climb I have done on the Morning Glory wall (the variation may have a name and should be listed as a different route?). After reaching the giant huecos, find a good stance and rest your arms. Instead of following the huecos up and right to end at the P1 Zebra-Zion anchors (5.easy), continue straight up on pocketed and crimpy face climbing to a set of bolted anchors. This is pumpy and delicate climbing that is very sim... more >>
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Peanut : Pop Goes the Nubbin (5.10a)
By: ScottH When: Jan 30, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I found the second bolt on this climb to be an insecure and spooky clip. Also, the run up to the anchors is fairly run out. I wouldn't upgrade the seriousness of the route (particulary since I am a chicken on pebble pinching slabs), but I didn't think this was a casual 10a romp.
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