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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron : Fandango (5.5)
By: Scott Edlin When: May 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really fun route, good variety of moves, and a great warmup off the sofa. We approached via the main trail as George Bell suggested and scrambled about 50 feet down until we could take a straight line up to the left edge of the LF dihedral (see pic). By Aaron Shileikis' description, I combined P3-P4 in a 60m rope stretcher from the bolt and barely reached a large dish below the piton. To do this you need short tails, a straight-ish line and extended runners on any pro.
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Location: CO : Stashed Pad Removal Days
By: Scott Edlin When: Jul 31, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Special thanks to Amy Carden for organizing and all who have come together to show climber respect for the env.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Brown Cloud Rocks : Big Dihedral (5.8)
By: Scott Edlin When: Nov 10, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The TR anchors are in a completely disconnected block about twice the size of a microwave sitting on and slighly overhanging the rim. It looks like someone could crow-bar the thing off without too much difficulty.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : E of East Slab East (5.7)
By: Scott Edlin When: Jul 11, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I started the direct start of East Slab, but when I pulled onto the upper slab and saw someone trying to toss topropes down the route, I cut right and followed the right leaning crack to the black streak and pulled the easy jug roof. This was 5.6 for the East Slab direct start and felt no harder than 5.5 for the rest.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : East of the Sun (5.7) : Photo (Copy)
By: Scott Edlin When: Jul 11, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This pic shows East of the Sun following East Slab. East of the Sun is supposed to be just left of East Slab and has a different finish.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : East of the Sun (5.7)
By: Scott Edlin When: Jul 11, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow, lots of fun! If you belay from the base of the right-traversing handcrack that starts P2 and extend from the anchor, you can coach your second through the P1 crux. P2 climbs the handcrack up and right a short ways, then straight up a funky uneven crack until it ends (#8 Powercam fits here). Climb slab with pockets to the left angling crack (small cam fits here) then up more slab with smaller pockets. This pitch is completely distinct from East Slab. I've drawn the line (more or l... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Cracker Jack (5.9)
By: Scott Edlin When: Jun 27, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well bolted crux crack.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Stone Cold Moderate (5.7)
By: Scott Edlin When: Jun 27, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: It appeared that this could be well protected on gear.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Arapahoe Peaks : Photo
By: Scott Edlin When: Jun 25, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice pic, Bob. Is that Neva?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Hillbilly Rock : East Face center/Hillbilly
By: Scott Edlin When: Jun 25, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I should've climbed this route just to legitimately dispute its four-star rating.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Hillbilly Rock : Billy Goat Arete (5.1)
By: Scott Edlin When: Jun 25, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Worth one star only because it protects far better than any other east face Flatiron climb I've been on. Two pitches with an obvious large belay ledge, mediocre rock, and poor descent options.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Hillbilly Rock
By: Scott Edlin When: Jun 25, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: After climbing Billy Goat Arete, I found no adequate rappel options from the summit. There is a wimpy tree with bad roots off to the west which appeared unsafe and would be difficult to downclimb to. There is a large summit block that I guess most people rap off of, but it appears completely undercut by a rotten layer of rock. The North Face route appeared littered with loose rock. There were no rap slings or fixed hardware anywhere. I downclimbed Warren's alternate descent route described ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : The Bomb (5.4)
By: Scott Edlin When: Jun 25, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Please update route description: 2x60m ropes are required for descent in a single two-rope rap. 2x50m and 2x55m will not reach the ledge at the base of Recon. I hung a single 50m down and it made it to the baby tree 1/3 of the way up Recon P1.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : Dinosaur's Foot : Index Toe (5.8)
By: Scott Edlin When: Jun 25, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very fun and long, not an easy lead for 5.8 leaders, consecutive insecure and committing sequency moves at the crux. A bit runout but easy at the top. The first bolt and the bolt below the crux have spinning hangers.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : Big Ass Slab? : Coloradoddity (5.6)
By: Scott Edlin When: Jun 25, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Kinda slabby start, seemed like the crux was moving past the first bolt, good warmup right off the trail. From the anchors, one may traverse right about 10' and set a toprope for Stout Blue Vein.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : North Face Center (5.7)
By: Scott Edlin When: Jun 19, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I led this in three pitches. Pitch one was to the first ledge, just after stepping right (could have gone to the second ledge a bit further up). Pitch two was up and onto the arete, belayed at the top of the arete. Pitch three (short) was up the crack 8' left of the bolt line. Done this way, I found the crux to be on pitch two, moving into the flared wide crack just above a piton with mediocre feet and non-positive hands.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Upper East Face : ... : Photo
By: Scott Edlin When: Jun 8, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for posting the great pic, Phil.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Upper East Face : Kiener's Route (5.3 Easy Snow)
By: Scott Edlin When: Jun 5, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The other party on 6-3-06 was me and my partner. We completed the route with a car-to-car time of 20 hours. Trip report on summitpost.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag
By: Scott Edlin When: May 31, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: FYI: a thread has been started regarding the defacement at http://mountainproject.com/v/colorado__rocky_mountain_region>>>>>.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Shirt Tail Peak : Gambit (5.8)
By: Scott Edlin When: May 29, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: P1 was actually a nice warmup. Nate linked P2 and P3. P4 was wild! I skipped the pin and walked a #4 until I was over the wide part. Then the face was spectacular! The belay seat on the crown of the 2' ledge was a real nice place to spend some time pulling rope. The walkoff (option C under Shirttail Peak description) was craptacular. The rappels must really suck to be worse.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : The Crestones : Crestone Needle North Buttr... (Easy 5th PG13) : Photo
By: Scott Edlin When: May 29, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: That looks a whole lot like The Needle, and the red line looks like just left of Ellingwood Ledges.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag
By: Scott Edlin When: May 23, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: They were not there eight days ago. This is very disappointing news.
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Location: CO : Tonya Riggs summits the big...
By: Scott Edlin When: May 19, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yea, Tonya!
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq...
By: Scott Edlin When: May 19, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: There appear to be two different database entries for Dreamweaver.
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Location: Updated Arches regulations
By: Scott Edlin When: May 19, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: this obviously affects far more than one route on one formation. we are now locked into the current set of fixed anchors, with no more ever to be added. thanks, dean.
"No new permanent climbing hardware may be installed in any fixed location. If an existing bolt or other hardware item is unsafe, it may be replaced. This will limit all climbing to existing routes or new routes not requiring placement of fixed anchors."
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