Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Lower Highway : ... : Scarface (5.7)
By: Scott Tucker When: Jun 5, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pretty easy climbing. I agree there may be no 5.7 move. It is runout to the first gear placement but pretty relaxed thereafter.
|
Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Mid-Mountain : ... : Wind of Change (5.8)
By: Scott Tucker When: May 9, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Originally shared anchors with Two Birds with One Stone. You can still bear right to these chains to keep the grade easier (5.8), or go straight up for a harder finish (5.9). I find this one slightly harder than Two Birds with One Stone, even with the easier finish.
|
Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Mid-Mountain : ... : Sudden Impact (5.8+)
By: Scott Tucker When: May 9, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: In an effort to be concise: hard start, fun tricky bulge, easy climbing to top. Can easily be toproped.
|
Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Mid-Mountain : ... : Ridgeback (5.5)
By: Scott Tucker When: May 9, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very fun easy route. Great views, good exposure. Pretty runout to the first bolt and there's a perfect crack for a medium cam. Falling from the first bolt would bounce you once after 30 feet then send you down the gully for about 6000 feet of pine trees and manzanita to San Manuel.
|
Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Mid-Mountain : ... : Sissyboyz-8 (5.9)
By: Scott Tucker When: May 9, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is very fun route. Definitely not 5.8. Onsighting is tricky because of the thin moves under the roof, so it feels more like 5.9+ the first time. But I'd say 5.9 once you know the moves. Certainly harder than Sudden Impact (5.8+). My favorite route on this wall (but I haven't done the 10s).
|
Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Mid-Mountain : ... : Never to be the Same (5.7+)
By: Scott Tucker When: May 9, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a fun route, and I think it is actually the easiest one on the main wall.
|
Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Point East : ... : North Face (5.7)
By: Scott Tucker When: May 9, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I actually think climbing the route in front of tourists is part pf the fun. Normally it's annoying, but you have to accept it for this particular route. I say pick a major holiday and do it with a real crowd. You'll get a huge round of applause and tons of cameras will snap your picture atop the pinnacle. Tourists will surround you after you rap off and ask questions like "How tall is that, like 200 feet?" and want their picture taken with you in all your gear. Trust me, there is no other ... more >>
|
Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Lower Highway : ... : The Right One (5.8)
By: Scott Tucker When: May 9, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's getting to the first bolt that worries me. It's about 40 feet up and you'd bounce off some pretty pointy stuff on the way down. You'll probably want gear to get you there, plus a small piece or two higher up. The crux is well bolted. The Left One and The Right One share chains, so it's easy to lead the Left One then toprope the Right One if you only have quickdraws.
|
Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Lower Highway : ... : The Left One (5.7)
By: Scott Tucker When: May 9, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: There's one perfect crack for a small cam between maybe the 4th and 5th bolts, but it's easy to just run it out.
|
Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Lower Highway : ... : No Slack at GAC (5.7 R)
By: Scott Tucker When: May 9, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Few fun moves, sort of chossy, and I thought the bolts were in bad spots, but I give it a star for sheer excitement. Great exposure on the overhanging arete and nice photo ops from up in the gully (you'll look like your 500 feet in the air and your mom will freak out). Crux is up high. Possibly the most grunting I've ever done on a 5.7.
|
Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Lower Highway : ... : Unemployment Line (5.8)
By: Scott Tucker When: May 9, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very spicy getting to first bolt. Bad landing too, so watch out. I found this considerably harder than the 5.9 to the left. Both 5.8s and the 5.9 all get easier higher up.
|
Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Bear Canyon : ... : Fathers Dazed (5.8+)
By: Scott Tucker When: May 9, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The 5.8+ face move up high is a bit contrived, as there is practically a staircase to the right of the face. Otherwise it's mostly 5.7 with some fun thin stuff down low at the bolts to big, easily protected ledges and steps above. This was my first lead placing gear and I might recommend it for such because of the bolts on the hard parts and the fact that the gear placement is on very easy ground.
|
Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Lower Highway : ... : Notched Arrow (5.9)
By: Scott Tucker When: May 9, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Harder bouldery start to get to first good ledge for my 5'10" self. Then my 6'4" partner used the ledge as a starting hold with his feet flat on the ground. Add half a grade if you're short, just for your ego's sake.
|
Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Mid-Mountain : ... : Gumbuttress (5.7)
By: Scott Tucker When: May 9, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this is listed as a gear climb in Squeezing the Lemmon but has been retro-bolted. Someone can feel free to verify that, but either way this is a fourth bolted route not listed as a sport climb in EFR's book.
|
Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Mid-Mountain : ... : Twisted Gumby (5.5)
By: Scott Tucker When: May 9, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good first lead. Easy to Z-clip near the top as two bolts are really close together. Good route to learn this lesson on the hard way, so another reason it's a good first lead.
|
Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Mid-Mountain : ... : What a World (5.9)
By: Scott Tucker When: May 9, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hungover and onsight climbing near my limit on 90 minutes of sleep New Year's day, Velcro on my shoe abandoned all stickiness and let go, right at the crux. My proudest climbing moment....
|
Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Mid-Mountain : ... : There's No Place Like Home (5.9)
By: Scott Tucker When: May 9, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Taller than it looks from the ground. Just when things were getting pumpy and I thought I was near the anchors, I came over a bulge and saw three or four more bolts. Great fun!
|
Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Mid-Mountain : ... : Which Old Witch (5.7)
By: Scott Tucker When: May 9, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The guides all say 5.6+, but this seems a solid .7 to me. There are a couple tricky spots. The stance at the overhead anchors always seems a tad sketchy to me as well, so watch the long reach up.
|
Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Mid-Mountain : ... : Admiral Throckmorton (5.8)
By: Scott Tucker When: May 9, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have to agree with Wes. If In Lightning is a 5.8 (which I think it is) then this is a definite 5.9. I'll put 5.8+ in case I'm just a wuss. I did find it easier than the left side of the roof (Corporal Punishment). Both are fun!
|
Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Mid-Mountain : ... : Exposure in the Making (5.8-)
By: Scott Tucker When: Apr 25, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very fun, appropriate name.
|
Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Bear Canyon : ... : Puppy Chow (5.8)
By: Scott Tucker When: Apr 25, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent route. Definitely taller than 70 ft. More like 90, same as Chihuahua Power.
|
Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Bear Canyon : ... : Here and Gone (5.8)
By: Scott Tucker When: Feb 28, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good climb. Direct start is 5.9. Only bolt is easy to clip from ledge if you're 6'10" tall with a +4 ape index. Otherwise you get to dangle in ground fall range to clip. Easy but runout climbing to the anchors. Fun all around! The climb is quite a bit taller than it looks from the ground as the top tower is set back: I got into a nervous "did you see the middle mark go by?" conversation on this route. Use a 60m rope and you're good.
|
Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Bear Canyon : ... : Rock Candy (5.6)
By: Scott Tucker When: Feb 28, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Defnitely not 5.6. Maybe not 5.9 either, but I think a 5.7 leader would be a bit unhappy at the crux of this one. Agree that it's not great but worth doing if you've exhausted the rest of Green Slabs. Just don't be surprised if it's the hardest 5.6 you've seen.
|
Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Bear Canyon : ... : Yurt Monkey (5.8+)
By: Scott Tucker When: Feb 28, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Start could be close to 5.9. Would recommend a piece of gear for the vertical crack on the runout between the middle bolts. Sustained and good fun.
|
Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Bear Canyon : ... : Monkey Business (5.7)
By: Scott Tucker When: Feb 28, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: First pitch is worth it alone, but the second and third are highly recommended. I used a #2 Camalot for the airy second pitch move, which is good news if you don't own a #4! Rapping into the tree is part of the fun.
|
RSS Feed
