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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coal Pit Buttress : Coalpit Connection (5.10b)
By: Scott McLeod When: Sep 14, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: And one more thing, if someone were to bring a small saw and cut out the gnarly, rotting, dead tree "guarding" the beginning of the finger crack, it would improve this line greatly! In which case DON'T belay right below the crack!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coal Pit Buttress : Coalpit Connection (5.10b)
By: Scott McLeod When: Sep 14, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Regardless of who did this first, or when it was originally done, there are some cool sections on this line. My suggestions would be to A) Consider approaching via Endless Torment rather than the first 2 pitches of Precious Lost (which are not memorable). Either way, you have some bush whacking. And B) set up your belay directly below the finger crack rather than at the "nut and pin" anchor. That way, you don't have to worry about the rope running over the sharp arete. Pitches 3 and 4 reall... more >>
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Location: UT : House Range : Notch Peak : Western Hardman (5.11)
By: Scott McLeod When: Jun 29, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow, what an outstanding route. Gorgeous country, amazing solitude, such a magnitude of rock, and empty. Amazing. Western Hardman is great. I think this route has matured like a fine wine. I found the climbing to be quite moderate, with the two cruxes coming in at 5.10, no harder. There was very little loose rock, solid gear, solid stone, solid bolts. All in all, it was great.
We took one 70m, rapped the whole way. Which works just fine for the Godsend pitch. It is worth being heads up... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Convent
By: Scott McLeod When: May 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Decent off of the convent:
From the highest point on the NORTH end of the Convent, walk South (towards Castleton) down the hill for about 50 yds. and look for a cairn below a mushroom roof. From the cairn you will see a distinct ledge and a new and improved rap down Choir Boyz. One 70 gets you down. IMPORTANT - stick to the corner when arriving at last rap station, otherwise it is easy to find yourself swinging in the breeze.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Convent : The Value of Audacity (5.11+)
By: Scott McLeod When: Apr 13, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Decent off of the convent:
From the highest point on the NORTH end of the Convent, walk South (towards Castleton) down the hill for about 50 yds. and look for a cairn below a mushroom roof. From the cairn you will see a distinct ledge and a new and improved rap down Choir Boyz. One 70 gets you down. IMPORTANT - stick to the corner when arriving at last rap station, otherwise it is easy to find yourself swinging in the breeze.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : God's Crag
By: Scott McLeod When: Sep 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: How long does it take to get to God's Crag (or tick rock) from Gunnison?
Thanks
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Forgotten Trails
By: Scott McLeod When: Jul 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The approach beta mentioned here in the comments is still accurate as of July 09
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Beastie Boys (5.12d PG13)
By: Scott McLeod When: Nov 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Harddd but brilliant(at least for us mortals). one of the most stellar lines around, if nothing else for its improbability. You get it all: power, delicacy, spook-factor. Get to it soon, it seems to be deteriorating bit by bit...
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : First Creek Slabs : Lady Luck (5.7)
By: Scott McLeod When: Apr 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Whats the descent?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11a/b)
By: Scott McLeod When: Nov 5, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Protecting the bomb bay is not as hard as it is described. My suggestion would be to back up the pin before entering the chimney mere centimeters below the pin with a stopper or a yellow Alien/TCU (or both, which I did) I reached out to the slot out left, but it was both not a good piece, and DEFINITELY in the way (as mentioned above). Also, it doens't make the fall shorter, so the better packups would be near the pin. As far as the exit moves at the roof, a red Alien is decent, but more impo... more >>
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Freeway (5.11c)
By: Scott McLeod When: Aug 1, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Brilliant line. Bring your "A" game. This climb has it all! crack, face, slab, well protected, bold, etc. I think that the crux can be different for everybody because of this.
Great climb!
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Washington Column : Astroman (5.11c)
By: Scott McLeod When: Jun 28, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Can I just say that the Harding Slot is NOT as bad as all the hype. It is tricky no doubt, but certainly not worth all the fear it instills in people's hearts... Mostly, it is just a work out.
The crux is getting IN to the slot, not getting though the wide section. And, at the crux of getting in, the gear is right next to you and BOMBER. red Camalots and 2 friends. Plus, there are two jugs, mostly its the feet disappearing out from under you. Oh yeah, and if you really felt despo, you cou... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Kermits Wall and Perhaps Ar... : Gordon's Direct (5.11b R)
By: Scott McLeod When: Mar 12, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: OK, first of all, figuring this out is part of the challenge, excitement, and fun, so the above route description has a little too much beta in my opinion. Beta is best included in the comments sections, and even better if it has a **BETA** type warning.
But that aside, I am 5'6", and can do all of these moves. It is exciting and at times reachy, but never height dependent.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Moses : Primrose Dihedrals (5.11+)
By: Scott McLeod When: Mar 6, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Incredible Route!
My Ideas:
-If you can, have the second lower or throw down the big cam after the crux start. you wont need it again and it is a pain to lug up there. we used a new #5 Camalot. BTW- the fixed off-set/stopper is no longer there...
-link the first 2 pitches, pretty straight forward, just bring enough runners (12-15), and if you have two ropes, alternate them appropriately.
-link the 3rd and 4th pitches. The third can be easily navigated by shuffling cams as you go up, t... more >>
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