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Member Since: Aug 6, 2013
Last Visit: Aug 5, 2014
Contact Scott Cosgrove


Point Rank: # 11,541
Total Points: 16
Last Year: 16
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Scott Cosgrove been climbing?










Contributions


All 29 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 16 | Posts | Stars 11 | Ratings 2
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Barker Dam Bouldering : Alisters Cave : Diary of a Dope Fiend (V8)
By: Scott Cosgrove When: Sep 17, 2013

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Comments: It's so funny to read Will's post, as It was so chossey when I was first trying it, that my friends thought me crazy.

I did it to the last move, and then a guy named Paul? did the final boulder problem, after that it was all one problem.

I think I may have link it first but it was a long time ago and it could have been anyone of us.

I'm glad to hear it's cleaning up and the rock that remains is solid, I heard Fred N did a boulder problem to the left of the DF, anyone know?


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Barker Dam Bouldering : Alisters Cave : Sex Magician Sit Start (V8)
By: Scott Cosgrove When: Sep 17, 2013

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Comments: Can't remember but we may of done this low start BITD (but I can't remember, so it's yours Rob), I know Croft finished by soloing up the crack at the end. Anyway, I think for me SM is a harder traverse than the Dope F. I'd flop the rating, SM V8 and DF - V7 although I wouldn't argue V9 for both.

The DF is more stretched out, move wise and the crux of the SM is very scrunched up, so it might be that I'm 6'2" and that's why I find one harder than the other.

Also, people need to realize how bad ... more >>


Location: Memorial : Blitzo Memorial Service - J... : Photo
By: Scott Cosgrove When: Sep 12, 2013

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Comments: If I'm in town I'll be there, just to pay respect, to a great man.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Hidden Cliff : Railer (5.12c R)
By: Scott Cosgrove When: Sep 11, 2013

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Comments: The Railer is quite a good climb, and modern pro might even make it safe. I did it twice, once for the red point and another time for photo's nearly taking a ground fall in the process. But, like I said... a small cam just could make it sorta safe. I would defiantly recommend it.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Ryan Campground : Headstone Rock : Headbanger's Ball (5.12b/c)
By: Scott Cosgrove When: Sep 10, 2013

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Comments: It's way harder than Apartheid, the crew who put it up, prided themselves as sandbaggers. The Cutting Edge and Headmaster are also complete sandbags as well. Terry Ayres, was one of the best climbers of his day, that no one knows about.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : The Astro Domes : North Astro Dome : ... : Gunslinger (5.12a/b)
By: Scott Cosgrove When: Sep 4, 2013

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Comments: We placed no 1/4 inch bolts on the climb, they are 5/16 button heads and completely bomber. As far as the first pitch, I never broke any holds, but it was poor rock.

I think we may have drilled shallow hook holes as we drilled all the bolts on lead, (legal at the time). I was also way into the Gunslinger by Stephen King at the time, hence the name.

Never said it was a classic, or anyone needs to recommend it...weird... but it was a fun and a great adventure, for me and my Brother Bob...

If I'... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : The Astro Domes : North Astro Dome : ... : Figures on a Landscape (aka... (5.10b R)
By: Scott Cosgrove When: Sep 4, 2013

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Comments: Outstanding route Dave and Randy, and great achievement for the day.

I remember feeling it was an amazing climb when I first did it and quite visionary.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Peyote Cracks Formation : Peyote Cracks Formation - E... : Buffalo Soldier (5.12c)
By: Scott Cosgrove When: Sep 4, 2013

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Comments: If Mike did this first, it's news to me, as when I did the first ascent he certainly had not climbed it yet. He did try it on TR as I remember, but never straight through and declared it crap. LOL. Maybe I'm wrong and knowing how worked up Mike gets about these things, I could clearly not be remembering things correctly. After all it was 27 years ago.

It's not a quality line but needed to be climbed, hard crux and shares the start as Tribal Warfare, that is a much cooler route.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Peyote Cracks Formation : Peyote Cracks Formation - E... : Apartheid (5.12a)
By: Scott Cosgrove When: Sep 4, 2013

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Comments: This was the first bolted route I did in the Park and couldn't believe it hadn't been climb yet. I climb it ground up and place all the bolts on lead. The crux for me was the mantle as it was very grainy and hard at the time.

I rated it 12b and still think it is, if you do the mantle...

I don't think it's as quailty as say, Leave it to Beaver, but it's darn fun if I do say so myself. A great warm up and entry level route for that beautiful wall.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Peyote Cracks Formation : Peyote Cracks Formation - E... : Baby Apes (5.12c)
By: Scott Cosgrove When: Sep 4, 2013

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Comments: I saw many people do the Baby Apes, and lead it -first try-, back in 91? I did clip my bolt on Rastafarian, but still would have hit the deck going for the top. It was a desperate lead and I was happy to have sent it first try.

I never saw the wall as a top rope wall, as the first time I did most of the routes with the exception of Moon Beam, I lead them.

So, when I put up the Rastafarian, on lead, I did not see it as a breach of style to add a bolt to a mostly independent line. People didn't... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Ryan Campground : Headstone Rock : Headmaster (5.12b)
By: Scott Cosgrove When: Sep 4, 2013

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Comments: Jonny's route goes nowhere near the bolt ladder, except for the first few moves. The straight up bolt ladder has no free ascent.

I have attempted the straight up line (Bolt Ladder) two or three times, and all the moves are there, I've done them all and linked big sections. The rock is bullet hard. I doubt anyone climbing a bolt ladder will break off any holds. After all the holds have held up to many rappels and Bolt Ladder ascents.

Surprised... actually, no one has sent this project, it is ... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Ryan Campground : Headstone Rock : The Cutting Edge (5.13+)
By: Scott Cosgrove When: Sep 3, 2013

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Comments: I would also like to add, if anyone is looking for a great project. The bolt ladder on the North Face of the Headstone goes. It is between the Cutting Edge and the Head Master. I have done all the moves a few times, years ago, and it would make a proud line. Probably checking in at 13 plus...


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Ryan Campground : Headstone Rock : The Cutting Edge (5.13+)
By: Scott Cosgrove When: Sep 3, 2013

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Comments: I climbed the Cutting Edge, AKA "Headstone arete" shortly after finishing the G-String. I was in the prime of my climbing life and felt extremely fit.

The line caught my eye... as it would anyone... and I assumed it was impossible. But, Bob Gaines and a few others, claimed there where hold and that, I should give it a try. I was very surprised after a short cleaning that the route was very climbable.

My first day I was able to do all the moves and started thinking about placing the bolts. On ... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Hidden Cliff : G-String (5.13d)
By: Scott Cosgrove When: Sep 2, 2013

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Comments: Well, all I can say is I'm under 6'3".... I'm only 6' 2" with an equal ape. No holds have broken and the move is far from a reach. I used a far lower set of foot holds, the one's a smaller person could use are much better and it's only a three foot reach at the crux's. I'm sure anyone 5' 7" could make the reach if they had the required ability.

All this talk about me being of amazing height and reach is pretty funny, all of my climbs with the exception of a few, have been repeated by shorter, m... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Little Hunk : Little Hunk - NE Face : ... : New Deal (5.14a)
By: Scott Cosgrove When: Sep 2, 2013

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Comments: I found the New Deal, after guiding ZZZZ and imagine a climb going up that wall, without looking closely. I inspected it closer and saw all the holds and tried to do it ground up. But the holds were too friable and I felt hooking and breaking them off would ruin the climb. So, I decide to rap bolt it and created a Shiite storm in doing so.

It took me somewhere like 18 days to do it, I think, I had never climb a 14a and the grade did not exist in California, but a 14a Euro-climber tried and fail... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Barker Dam Area : Lakeside Rock : Lakeside Rock - East Face : Father Figure (5.12d)
By: Scott Cosgrove When: Sep 2, 2013

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Comments: My first post to Mountain Project. I did not know what to rate it, as I'd only climbed a few other 13a at the time, and it seemed far easier than the New Deal 14a, that I believe was put up in 88 and Father Figure was done in 87.

I found the climb by mistake, after taking a lovely female climbing ranger up, Eye for an Eye, and getting lost on the descent. I went back that afternoon and place the first two bolts, 1/4 inch tapers, yipes. The second and third went in a day later and I think I red... more >>


Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

The Cutting Edge 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Headstone Rock

Headmaster 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Headstone Rock

Diary of a Dope Fiend V8 7B

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Alisters Cave

Gunslinger 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : North Astro Dome - Northeas...

Father Figure 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Lakeside Rock - East Face

Sex Magician V7 7A+

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Alisters Cave

G-String 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : The Hidden Cliff

Factor 1 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Lakeside Rock - East Face

Desert Shield 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Turtle Rock - South Face

Railer 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : The Hidden Cliff

Buffalo Soldier 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Peyote Cracks Formation - E...

Contributed Ratings

Name Established Rating Suggested Rating Location

Desert Shield

5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Turtle Rock - South Face

Diary of a Dope Fiend

V8 7B

V8-9 7B+

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Alisters Cave

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