Contributed Comments |
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : Skylight (WI4+ M4-5) By: Scott Bower When: Dec 27, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bolt anchor at the top of the chockstone is useful as a directional for the second when using the tree on the sunny shelf as an anchor.
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Location: CO : Grivel Returning to US Mark... By: Scott Bower When: Dec 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tim, It is pretty easy to get new picks for Grivel tools. Just order them from a Canadian outdoor store such as Mountain Magic. Or just wait a while more.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Backflip (5.8) By: Scott Bower When: Aug 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The "thin seam" can be well protected. I put a 0.3 or 0.4 Camalot low in the crack followed by 2 smallish but solid stoppers at 3 foot intervals above it. 2 pieces would have been enough, but after the runout (it wasn't bad with very positive holds), I wanted some redundancy.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Eden area : The Fable : East of Eden (5.9) By: Scott Bower When: Aug 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route stays in the shade until late morning (around 11:00 today). A 60M rope is enough to rap back to where we belayed. I thought the real crux was the bulge just above the initial overhang, but careful footwork and stemming may be what I lacked.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Grizzly Peak : Grizzly Couloir (Steep Snow) : Photo By: Scott Bower When: Jun 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm pretty sure this picture is of the line to skier's right of Grizzly Couloir.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : Slip Sliding Away (WI4-) By: Scott Bower When: Jan 2, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I recommend doing this as a single, long pitch if you have enough gear and a 60m. Rope drag was not a problem and you get a nice, big, tree belay at the top. Plus, the top is in the sun after late morning.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorg... : Flattop Mountain - S side : Dragon's Tail Couloir (WI2 M2) By: Scott Bower When: May 8, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: What's up with a fixed line on a 10 foot section of M2?
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice By: Scott Bower When: Apr 20, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Was up by Emerald Lake on 4/19. The Squid and a couple of adjacent climbs were in, but not overly thick. Lots of ephemeral ice everywhere including climbable ice between Dragon's Tail and Dragon's Tooth. Probably won't last long. Hallett's Chimney looked promising. There was lots of coverage on the route. Much of it appeared to be ice, but it was a little hard to tell from across the way.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity : Loch Vale & uphill : Womb with a View (WI5 M6) By: Scott Bower When: Apr 20, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This wasn't in on 4/15/2006. How often does this climb come in? Is it possible the recent cold snap brought it in.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Tenmile Canyon aka Officer'... : The Shroud (WI3-4) By: Scott Bower When: Mar 7, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's not a secret. It is visible from I-70, after all. Fewer people climb this route after mid Nov. due to the danger from the huge snowfields near the top of the peak, which are not visible from the climb. It gets climbed in winter, but it is best to go when avvy danger is low. This past weekend, most of the gullies in Officer's Gulch had lots of wet slide debris in the bottoms of them. Edit: Oops, didn't see Leo's follow up to the conditions comment.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity : Loch Vale & uphill : Northwest Face Route - That... (WI3-4) By: Scott Bower When: Jan 25, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: An alternative descent is to follow the Ridge of Thatchtop down to the East. Look for the entrance to a gully (the S gully) And follow it down. If you arrive at a dropoff with a view down to Mills Lake, you are too far to the South. This gully is the summer route up Thatchtop and is best used early in the season before it fills in with deeper snow. It will deposit you at the base of Mixed Feelings, just in case you're ready for more climbing.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorg... By: Scott Bower When: Oct 3, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed the far left finger of Tyndall Glacier yesterday (10/2/2005). The snow conditions were very solid, well consolidated alpine ice. Based on the conditions on Tyndall, I'd guess that every North facing route that holds permanent snow in the Front Range is in great condition for some enjoyable crampon work. Get out there before it gets covered by soft snow.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Upper East Face : The Notch Couloir (Mod. Snow) By: Scott Bower When: Jul 14, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Notch was in primo condition on 7/11. We didn't climb any rock until we reached the chimney to the right of the Notch. The narrow section before the jog to the right had a 40 foot section of grey alpine ice. The next constriction also had some ice, but it was warm and things are likely changing quickly.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity : Loch Vale Gorge By: Scott Bower When: Mar 6, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Loch Vale ice is very thin. There is a little ice left on Loch Ness Monster, but the upper piller does not look stable. Mo Flo Than Go is pretty much the only ice that is in.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity : Loch Vale & uphill : The Crypt (WI4) By: Scott Bower When: Feb 17, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Crypt is nowhere near 100 feet tall. There are two trees at the top with slings around them. The first is very small and suspect. The second tree is much larger, but farther (~30 feet) from the top of the ice. A 60m rope easily reaches from the second tree, but a 50m rope should be long enough as long as you rap toward the ride side of the climb.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Arapahoe Peaks : Skywalker Couloir By: Scott Bower When: Jun 4, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed 6/1/2003. Found the snow conditions to be relatively consolidated, but not well frozen. The Princess Leia finish was full of consolidated snow with steps already kicked into it. Topped out in whiteout conditions and returned by glissading most of the couloir including the lower part of Princess Leia, which was manageable only because the snow was getting so soft.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorg... : Flattop Mountain - S side : Dragon's Tooth (M2 Mod. Snow) By: Scott Bower When: May 25, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed on 5/24/03. The snow was consolidated, but there wasn't a hard freeze the night before. A recent, large slide had destroyed some of the trees directly above Emeral Lake. Higher in the couloir, conditions were better for climbing. A dead, mummified elk blocks the easiest route through the first rock step. We climbed over the step at the far left, which made for an exciting move or two with crampons. Take the right branch right above the rock step for a more challenging finish including a ... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorg... : Flattop Mountain - S side : Dragon's Tail Couloir (WI2 M2) By: Scott Bower When: May 3, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed today 5/3/03. Lots of snow in the park this year. The snow on the route is fairly consolidated, although there are spots of softer snow. Recent wet slide activity is very evident. There is enough snow in the couloir to completely avoid climbing on any rock. It should be in better shape next week.
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