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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Jackrabbit Buttress : Geronimo (5.6)
By: saxfiend When: May 12, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was a thoroughly enjoyable route from start to finish. Mostly easygoing, but there's something to keep you interested on every pitch. I'm guessing the route has cleaned up a lot with traffic since the early comments were posted as we encountered no loose rock or breaking holds.
Not sure why anyone would have issues with the descent. It's easily the most casual and straightforward one I've encountered so far back in the canyons. A minimal amount of effort will keep your ropes from getti... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Ragged Edges Area : Revoked (5.5)
By: saxfiend When: May 12, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Any beginning leader expecting a 5.5 climb can look forward to a rude (and potentially painful) awakening here.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Ragged Edges Area
By: saxfiend When: May 12, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Based on recent experience, this area was apparently developed by someone with a limited understanding of the Yosemite decimal system.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : First Creek Slabs : Lady Luck (5.7)
By: saxfiend When: May 12, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: If I'd known what the descent would be like, I'd never have gotten on this route. An unroped 8th pitch followed by scrambling, thrashing and rapping was possibly the most miserable two hours I've spent on rock. I guess I'm too old for Red Rock . . .
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Location: NV : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : Angel Food Wall : Tunnel Vision (5.7)
By: saxfiend When: May 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really wish we could have finished this route, but had to bail from halfway up the second pitch due to rain. Led P1, which had a pretty attention-getting start.
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Location: TN : Obed & Clear Creek : Lilly Bluff : Whipper Snapper (5.11a)
By: saxfiend When: May 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Got on this one on toprope after my buddy led it with one fall up at the roof. It's all there, just a matter of having the stamina to put it all together. Great route!
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Location: TN : Obed & Clear Creek : Lilly Bluff : Tarantella (5.10a)
By: saxfiend When: May 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is an outstanding lead, one of the highlights of my latest Obed trip. Fairly sustained, but there are good rests along the way. The moves off the first rest ledge skirting the roof felt like the crux of the climb for me.
Stick clipping is not a bad idea, but you'll need a pretty long pole.
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Location: TN : Obed & Clear Creek : South Clear Creek : The Balcony : Best Seat In The House (5.9+)
By: saxfiend When: May 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is an excellent line, makes for a highly memorable lead! It was occupied all day on my first trip to the Obed, so I was determined I'd get on it this time, and it was worth the wait.
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Location: TN : Obed & Clear Creek : South Clear Creek : Image Wall : Shadowhawk (5.9)
By: saxfiend When: May 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Lots to like about this route. Long and sustained with a lot of variety and great exposure. I had no problems whatsoever with rope drag or cleaning. Excellent lead!
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Location: TN : Lower Leda : Guardian Angel (5.9+)
By: saxfiend When: Dec 31, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is one of my favorite leads at Lower Leda -- quality climbing from top to bottom!
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Location: TN : Lower Leda : giGantic (5.7)
By: saxfiend When: Dec 31, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route makes a nice first lead of the day -- nothing really strenuous, but not a routine 5.7 either.
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Location: NC : Crowders Mountain : Main Climbing Areas : David's Castle Wall : Caterpillar (5.7)
By: saxfiend When: Sep 12, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This really is a great climb -- wish I'd led it! Pretty sustained chimney climbing the whole way; turning your body frequently and not keeping your back to just one side of the chimney is good strategy.
I know people do it somehow, but I don't think this route is well suited for toproping. If you make the exit move onto the face, your rope is going to be going over some pretty sharp rock; and if you go all the way to the top, I suspect even a 70-meter rope won't be long en... more >>
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Location: TN : The Tennessee Wall : T-Wall East : Finagle (5.9)
By: saxfiend When: May 14, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pretty sure the variation you're referring to is called My Lost China Doll in the Dixie Cragger's Atlas. It's not included in the new Robinson guide.
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Location: TN : Starr Mountain : Big Men, Small Airplanes (5.10c/d)
By: saxfiend When: Feb 15, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The 5.8 lower section is a nice lead in its own right. Great crack climbing and good pro.
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Location: TN : Starr Mountain : Pleasing to the Touch (5.6)
By: saxfiend When: Feb 15, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a worthwhile lead even for climbers who lead at a higher grade. Recommended.
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Location: TN : Starr Mountain : The Sound of One Finger Ble... (5.8+)
By: saxfiend When: Feb 15, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a nice lead; the meandering aspects make it more interesting than the typical straight-up route. Two hints that will make life easier:
1. Sling your pro well, or the rope drag will be unbearable. Bring at least a couple of double-length slings.
2. Take enough webbing or the like to extend the anchor over the edge of the cliff, or you're likely to really trash your rope.
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Location: Buick Mackane : Me : Photo
By: saxfiend When: Jan 13, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cool shot and great view!
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Location: TN : The Tennessee Wall : T-Wall East : Art (5.8)
By: saxfiend When: Nov 20, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely one of T-Wall's finest 5.8s! Some interesting puzzles to solve along the way. An exciting lead!
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Uberfall Descent (Easy 5th)
By: saxfiend When: Nov 15, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Probably the best for its grade in the Trapps. I'd backed off it on my first two trips, but on my last Gunks trip, I felt like I was ready. After a confidence-boosting warm-up on Horseman, I onsighted Uberfall free-solo. Unforgettable!
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Location: TN : Suck Creek Canyon : Roadside Wall : The Ramp (5.8)
By: saxfiend When: Nov 7, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was pleasantly surprised by how good this route is; when I saw "ramp" in the name, I envisioned something along the lines of easy inclined ledges, but it's nothing like that at all. Each of the corner systems has its own little sequences to solve, and most end at a fairly comfortable stance where you can scope out the next section. Make sure your belayer is spotting you on the hard start. Overall, an excellent 5.8.
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Location: TN : Suck Creek Canyon : Roadside Wall : Cruise Control (5.8+)
By: saxfiend When: Nov 7, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a super sandbag; consensus in my crew was something closer to 5.10.
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Location: NC : Laurel Knob : Defective Sonar (5.12a)
By: saxfiend When: Oct 27, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Updated. Congratulations on freeing this one, Arno!
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Yellow Ridge (5.7)
By: saxfiend When: Oct 13, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Full value for the grade. The offwidth at the start is pretty damn tough.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : Birdland (5.8+)
By: saxfiend When: Oct 13, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fantastic climbing that doesn't really ever let up. The first pitch crux was a fun puzzle to solve. This would be a solid 5.10 in the south.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Easy Overhang (5.2)
By: saxfiend When: Oct 13, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: If it's raining but you've just gotta climb something, Easy O is a good route in wet conditions. Better than sitting inside wishing you were climbing, anyway.
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