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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : Run Like Hell (5.10)
By: Sasha When: Nov 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Super fun and pumpy at the finish. Looks like it has 2 alternatives for the start, in the corner above the plaque (I didnt do this one), or on the face in a finger crack with features. Did this at the very end of the day and barely had the core strength left to reach and clip the chains. Classic for sure.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : eat your pudding (5.10+)
By: Sasha When: Nov 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good warm-up that has cleaned up nicely. Only loose for the bottom 15' then it heads into splitter Wingate. Fun working the tight-hands in the back of the flare with lots of features for the feet and hands on the left face to keep it at the grade.
one route left of Dancing Queen and 2 routes right of Brain Damage.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : Brain Damage (5.10+)
By: Sasha When: Nov 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely 5.11 unless #2 Friends are a hand jam for you. Heavy on the .75 BD, #2 Friend and #1 BD. Don't leave behind the #4, and #5 BD's either or you will be pissed in the offwidth. Can be done with a single 70 meter rope. Solid route with lots of variety.
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Sno-Cone Cave : Pistola (5.12a)
By: Sasha When: Aug 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree this is a great route. With a little more traffic it would fully clean up (there is some loose rock if you climb to either side of the bolt line...which seemed to make the most sense to me).
Not sure what the deal is with the hard to reach bolts? It could sure use a retro-job as some of the bolts are pretty old, too.
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : G3 : Vai (5.11b)
By: Sasha When: Aug 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mono mentions the boulder problem start...I think a crucial crimp on the left wall of the dihedral has broken (you can easily see the rock scar). Unless you are tall, the start to Via seems more like 11c/d to me. However, the upper climbing is, in my opinion, long, fun and better 5.10 than on its neighbor Malmsteen.
As a suggestion, I have been doing this route as a warm up, the past 2 seasons, by climbing the first 2 bolts of "Malmsteen" (10c just to the left) avoiding the not very pleasant ... more >>
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : The Dark Side : Cannibal Girl (V4-5)
By: Sasha When: Aug 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Went to scope this on the way out tonight. Absolutely no chalk on the holds and lots of new lichen. I did not try it as it was getting late, but my guess is it's not been done for a while. The rock quality didn't seem to be as good here as on the other blocks but still looks fun. I'm going to try and come back and brush it off and give her a go soon. Oh yeah, you can see this problem pretty well from the MoSo Roof that is down and left if looking down the hill from the trail's crest.
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : The Dark Side : Balancing Act (V4)
By: Sasha When: Aug 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tried this problem tonight for the first time. I've been hitting up MoSo after work all summer and the place has so many hidden gems. I have to mention for Balancing Act that at 5'8" with a +1 ape index I could not reach the first crimp on the face off the heel hook. No matter how high I started with the heel, or the right foot. I think this problem is V4 if you are 5'10" or taller. It's gonna take some work for me at my height, cause that first move is a serious reach. Beta anyone?
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Meat Wall : Crime and Punishment (5.12a)
By: Sasha When: Jun 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Havent done the extension but to the first anchor is one of the best enduro 12a's in the canyon. The rock has totally cleaned and provides thoughtful pumpy climbing all the way with a few classic Rifle rests to make it reasonable.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Road Kill (5.12a)
By: Sasha When: May 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fantastic route with a little bit of everything! Felt solid for 11d for me through the bulge as its a devious sequence. It was a pretty warm 80+ day so that might add to the difficulty on this one since the crux has some sloper jugs.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Talking Out Of Turn (5.10)
By: Sasha When: Mar 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bob,
Good seeing you on Saturday. Thanks for pointing us in the direction of these new routes. We climbed this one in one long pitch (70 meter rope needed) and it was fantastic. Certainly will get better with more traffic. Would have tried the others in the area had we not lost our sun. The 11d with your draws on it looks stellar too...any idea what the crack to the left (with the obvious pin down low) goes at? Did you put in some anchors for this line?
Sasha
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Free Form Wall : Partners in Crime (5.11c/d)
By: Sasha When: Feb 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Went back to this one on 2/9/08. It's either small fingers or being tall to have an advantage on the low crux at the first bolt. Definitely feels 11+/12- to me! But a great climb no matter what.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Outer Space (5.10c R)
By: Sasha When: Sep 24, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this route in the afternoon on 9/23 for the 2nd time. The pin is indeed missing from the start of the corner on the first pitch. I was surprised to not find in there as I had remembered being able to clip it from the no-hands, shoulder-bar rest. I am only 5'8" and was able to reach high and place a great wire to protect the crux move getting established in the corner. No need to replace the pin in my opinion.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Free Form Wall : Partners in Crime (5.11c/d)
By: Sasha When: Aug 21, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tried and tried this route in the spring of this year. At 5'8", it felt quite desperate, and I actually never sent the crux. If you can't span the reach from underclinging good pocket, you must use a couple of really bad holds, or throw a huge dyno. Must be at least 5.12 for those short folks. Any comments/suggestions?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : King Conquerer : King Conqer (V3 R)
By: Sasha When: Aug 21, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA: Pat Ament!
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Location: WY : Fremont Canyon
By: Sasha When: May 24, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is a nice website with a good amount of route info, and area beta to be found at www.fremontcanyon.com The guidebook (Falcon) has the most complete resource to routes and camping.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Checkerboard Rock : Ziggie's Brother Hank (5.10)
By: Sasha When: May 20, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this pitch as a warm-up to Ziggie's, it's quite good, but definitely "old school" The first bolt is rusty and spinning (you're hoping it's a 3.5 incher). Then, you launch into a 20 foot runout at 5.10, place a TCU and a nut in the Ziggie's cracks, step up to a good stance and the first of 2 bolts. Climb thru the bolts at 5.10 again (spicy), and reach a good undercling (the first good hold in a while). Fire in a 1.5" cam, and cruise on good holds to the anchors. It's a good precursor... more >>
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